dannybuoy

That sounds good but I would have flipped those around so that the fuzz was scooped and the TS was all mids, as that's where they naturally lean!

[quote name='discreet' timestamp='1468342059' post='3090310'] Rothko and Frost do quality custom decals. That is, if you haven't found them already. [/quote] Thanks, these look perfect! [quote name='RhysP' timestamp='1468344021' post='3090328'] Why not have a bash at making your own? [url="http://www.craftycomputerpaper.co.uk/.-Inkjet-Water-Slide-Decal-Paper_151.htm"]http://www.craftycom...l-Paper_151.htm[/url] [/quote] Thanks for the link, but I think I'd rather go elsewhere that can provide proper metallic inks, also the Rothko and Frost ones state they use much thinner paper than traditional waterslide paper which should make it easier to blend in!

I've found a few potential suppliers on eBay but wondered if anyone on here was into making custom decals? Ideally a modern style US Fender logo but with Pretender Bass next to it. Got a little bitsa project on the way and would like an authentic-yet-obviously-fake looking logo on it!

I don't have the patience to program mine, expect to see it listed for sale soon! I'll give it another go later but I prefer the simplicity of analog separates.

You should be able to fix that with superglue and sandpaper! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rTVScFJoe24

On a similar note I got this reply to a wanted ad that I just ignored: Hello How are you doing,Let me know if still interested in buying the above subject As soon as i hear from you i will email you some pictures and details Let me know your offer+ shipping ,Thanks and Hope to hear from you soon Greeting

[quote name='Kev' timestamp='1468081559' post='3088510'] And pardon the vintage Boss tuner, I will get round to updating it at some point... [/quote] I have a Polytune Mini Noir that's going to be listed soon along with some other pedals!

I hear the Steve Harris sig has the chunkiest P neck. May be worth looking up sites like The Stratosphere that break Fenders up for parts!

My cabs are a pair of sealed tweeterless Ampeg SVT210AVs, so I wouldn't use it with those... but if I had a more modern full range cab I would look at banging the cab sim in the fx loop of my amp for sure!

I think I recall a review in BassGearMag online which reported the LMII pre was pretty much flat with knobs at noon and filters off anyway.

[quote name='ras52' timestamp='1467893853' post='3087085'] Hm... [/quote] Ok, perhaps my definition of sight reading is being stretched a little. I can listen to a song to get a feel for the rhythm then play along by sight reading the tab. Rhythm is best left to the ears rather than the eyes if a recording is available.

[quote name='ivansc' timestamp='1467886032' post='3086954'] I suppose because I grew up in the pre-tab/Tab/TAB world, I have never seen the point in it. A lot harder to learn and apply than standard notation for me. I have to stop and think about which string I am supposed to be hitting and THEN which fret. Almost think writing out the letters for each note would be easier to follow quickly. Can you guys seriously sight read tab? [/quote] Sight reading tab is easy! I don't understand your argument at all, it's as if you're arguing for the wong side. The whole point of tab is that you don't have to think about which string and fret to go for. Musical notation is a lot harder to learn and apply as you have to go through several extra layers of thinking: Tab: - 8th fret on the A string, BAM! - I don't even care what note that was, I've already played it. Next! Music notation: - Ok I've worked out that dot means an F - Where are all the Fs? - Which one is nearest to my hand and will work best considering what notes come before and after? - Eeny meeny miny mo Granted tab is useless for conveying rhythm. But it's also very difficult to get right via traditional notation so I just listen to a recording and get it instantly without having to decode marks on a page. Of course in some musical situations, such as a bunch of musicians all needing to play a piece they've never heard, if they have the reading skills, notation is king. But if you're trying to learn Sex On Fire to play down the Dog and Duck, the vast majority find it much simpler to just listen to the track and look at the tab. No need for musical snobbery.

[quote name='Opticaleye' timestamp='1467886553' post='3086967'] I don't know about other Markbass models but going into the FX return on an LM2/3 doesn't bypass the preamp section so will not make much difference sadly. [/quote] There are some jumpers internally though to switch the loop between parallel and series mode - but suprised that it wouldn't be after the preamp though in either case.

If it's mainly for recording, there are some good cab sim plugins from Two Notes available!

Using mine (non-deluxe) as part of a headphone practice setup... it does great things to fuzz, you should try an ODB-3 into one!

Looking forward to seeing them play London in September!

The bass that has surprised me the most is the Sandberg Basic I bought from this very forum. It's like a Stingray but with a smaller lighter body, faster neck, active/passive switching and a warmer sound due to the pickup being a little bit further from the bridge. I bunged some TI flats on it too last week. Plugged straight in without any pedals, in active or passive mode, it's the best sounding bass I've owned and now I want a fretless to go with it! They don't pop up used very often but there is the cheaper yet very similarly specced Sandberg Electra M4 out there, I've seen the odd one on eBay come up cheap.

Funnily enough I was thinking something similar yesterday - I've just bought some chrome vintage style T-Bird pickups to go in a project bass, the pickups are a tiny bit smaller than the hole that's there and I thought the chrome pickup rings would be enough to cover the gap, but they just need to be a tiny bit bigger... So I had an idea to design and print some little black spacer plates to go under the chrome rings. I assume places exist where you can send them the 3D model and get the goods back in the post?

I love the ODB-3 when used at high gain, and into a cab without a tweeter (or through a cab sim). Nothing quite like it. Those that buy it thinking it's an overdrive like the label says are the ones that usually hate it! Other pedals I've tried and hated yet get a lot of love from others: - Fairfield Barbershop - Mountainking Megalith - EHX Bass Soul Food - Joyo Ultimate Drive - Ashdown James Lomenzo Hyperdrive - 3Leaf Wonderlove

Get yourself one of these instead, it can cover so many tones in one pedal! http://www.bassdirect.co.uk/bass_guitar_specialists/Soundblox_Aftershock_Bass_Distortion.html http://youtu.be/x8UnQDrlFAk

Stunning deal, for some reason Yamahas have never been fashionable but are very underrated, so they're are plenty of bargains to be found on the used market. I'd only part with mine if a black BB2025X came up cheap!

I've used shipito.com in the past before with great results. They charge $2 on top of the delivery charge to forward a parcel I think. You also get the opportunity to be 'creative' when filling out the customs declaration in case the value is over the VAT duty threshold!

I'd measure where the bridge pup is first - if it's in the 60s position and you apply 70s spacing between them, your neck pup will be too far north! I've seen PJs where the bridge pup is quite far back and others where they are pretty close to the P pup.

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