dannybuoy

I foolishly sold my v1 to upgrade to a v2, then again to get the DI, but the v1 sounded so much better to me. Seemed like the EQ knob positions were set differently and the drive more buzzy than crunchy in the later revisions. Having never actually A-B'd them though, it could be all in my head! Now I am VT-less and thinking of picking up one of these amps when they arrive. I wonder if setting the blend all the way to the left makes it act like a clean power amp, but accepting instrument level signals instead of having to boost to line level?

[quote name='Mark_88MPH' timestamp='1430821513' post='2764805'] Thanks, how about this? http://www.juno.co.uk/products/behringer-so400-super-octaver-ultimate-octaver-effects-pedal/493816-01/ [/quote] Looks like a Boss OC-3 clone. Never used one, they get mixed reviews so try searching to see what the verdict is!

[quote name='pete.young' timestamp='1430819944' post='2764776'] Digitech Bass Synth Wah has a good octave down ( better than the synth!) [/quote] It can't do a solo octave though (OP stated no dry signal) [quote name='Paul S' timestamp='1430820455' post='2764780'] I believe the Zoom MS-60B gets praise for its octaver, let alone anything else it can do, and costs the same as a stand alone pedal. [/quote] It is a bargainous unit (the B1on doubly so) but there is a slight delay between what you play and the octave coming through which is enough to put me off using the Zoom as an octaver full stop.

EHX Octave Multiplexer can be had for £47 new: http://www.juno.co.uk/products/electro-harmonix-octave-multiplexer-analog-sub-octave/560441-01 Otherwise you're looking at a used Boss OC-2, Pearl Octaver (if you can find one) or MXR Bass Octave Deluxe.

How about a Pedaltrain Volto so you can use any pedals without having to plug into a wall?

Aguilar TH350 / TH500 would indeed be the place to start!

I have the latest model B7K, I had the B3K years ago but not compared them back to back... But I do know that the 7 does not sound exactly the same as the EQ imparts some colour and a volume boost to the overall tone. Also the latest pedals (both models) have a cut position on the attack switch nowadays, although I prefer not to use it and reduce treble with the EQ instead if necessary.

If you can live without the headphone output, PMT ate knocking out the Orange Terror Bass heads for £350. Great vintage tone but then you'd still need to find a cab... but that Fender Rumble combo for £400 sounds like your best bet.

Only 120V labelled on the input though so you'll need a transformer unless he can build you a 240V version. I'd ask before buying!

+1 on the Pyramids, love those strings. I forgot they are pretty low tension compared to others. I also had a dead E once. Two P basses side by side with 2 sets of them, swapped the sets around and it was definitely that string. Just sounded like it had a foam mute under it in comparison with the others for some reason! I got a whole new set sent out for free though so can't complain.

If you can, give the TIs another go and wait for them to become worn in, you may prefer the sound when they're a bit funked up! Or some foam under the strings perhaps to increase thumpability? Only other option I can see is the LTFs you mentioned - supposedly similar tension/feel to TIs but with the LaBella thump: [url="http://www.labella.com/products/ltf-4a/"]http://www.labella.c...roducts/ltf-4a/[/url]

I'd go for the EMG Geezer Butler signature, they're getting rave reviews.

If you play a 4 string, get the bottom BEAD strings from a 5 string set and bin the G, or get one of the various 4 string sets designed for drop tuning - you'll want at least a .130 B string if tuning to Bb or A, ideally slightly higher. Also a bass with two pickups, bright steel rounds and played with a meaty pick into a Darkglass B3K or B7K pedal will sort out the tone department!

Yeah I heard about the boost issue, shame really. But it's good to leave it on permanently set to mild levels as when on it introduces a speaker sim effect on the DI which is useful for taming any distortion pedals that come before it. I've been tempted to pick one of these up myself.

Also MIJ Fenders will only increase in value now since the demise of Fender Japan!

Also - Sandberg Electra VS4

Rare to see an MIA under £600, MIJ is your best bet but harder to come by. Lots of interesting MIM bases out there though, from the classic 50s, Roger Waters, and Nate Mendel models, then also some cracking Squiers, the Classic Vibe, Vintage Modified, Matt Freeman... Do you have a preference for colour or maple/rosewood?

The Bass Blower does not recommend it? Not heard that before! I would have tried the Blower Box into the VT first - the VT is like an amp sim so would come last. Just watch out that too much bass boost from the Blower combined with too much gain from the VT would make things go to mush. With the VT when I had one, I liked the character around noon, but if playing fuzz or distortion into it I needed to back off the character control to calm down the midrange a bit. The character control is just like the mid knob you see, except placed before the distortion instead of after.

I'd contact MXR about getting it fixed.

Not sure if it will be an issue, but assuming you need the +10dB (on the VT) or line level output (BDDI) switches in order to provide enough output to feed a power amp, I'm not sure if the LS-2 will play nicely with the hotter signals, it could potentially distort.

For your needs a simple supply with daisy chain will suffice. I have one powering a dozen pedals and only encounter noise issues when using certain digital pedals such as Zoom multi fx units. http://www.effectpowersupplies.com/9v-dc-regulated-power-supply-for-single-effects-3-p.asp http://www.effectpowersupplies.com/9v-dc-regulated-power-supply-with-integrated-6-way-daisy-chain-2-p.asp If you do want one with isolated outputs, this is by far the cheapest: http://www.thomann.de/gb/harley_benton_powerplant_junior_b_stock_2.htm