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dannybuoy

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Everything posted by dannybuoy

  1. This was to solve a problem of a handle getting in the way, but would also solve your issue:
  2. I think the Performers have the flat body (like my Rockbass Streamer) but the Legends look to have the carved curved body?
  3. Also where does the cheaper Spector Legend fit into the equation?
  4. Aguilar's brand new fuzz pedal. They've only recently started shipping these and I don't think you can even find one it for sale over here yet. Virtually brand new, just taken out of the box to test for a few minutes. £115 posted - now sold http://youtu.be/-vTP909tUI0
  5. Got this in to see what all the fuss is about, seeing as the answer to 'which overdrive?' on Talkbass is answered by a chorus of 'Barbershop!'. I prefer my Bearfoot Blueberry and BB Preamp for different flavours of OD; I see this as more of a dirty boost. Very transparent, set to low gain you can't tell it's on, then you can add just a tiny edge of drive from there. So only a couple of days old and hardly used, yours for £120 posted.
  6. Well, it's not for sale yet, only pre-order. Lozz might be in for a long wait!
  7. It'll cost a lot more than £18.50 but the East P-Retro is made for P-Basses and fits in without needing to rout a battery box as it has an internal rechargeable battery that you charge up via the jack socket: http://www.east-uk.com/index.php/all-products/p-retro.html
  8. Or - buy one of the many cheap clones instead of a real Kala and you could afford both!
  9. It's the fretted one that is a bit of a nightmare intonation wise, at least beyond the 7th fret. At least with the fretless you can stay in tune with enough skill. Violinists can manage it! Another thing is that it's nigh on impossible to do vibrato or bends on fretted - the strings are so stretchy that they hardly change pitch when bent. Not a problem when you can slide on a fretless. Also you can get string rattles on the fretted one if you don't press right behind the fret, I hear the fretless is a lot more forgiving in this aspect. I've had the fretted one but would choose fretless next time around.
  10. I didn't think I'd ever say this, but I think we've found a bass that looks good with a black pearl scratchplate!
  11. AFAIK they've only made one class D amp, the VT Bass 1000, which nobody bought because they cost around a grand. Now that manufacture has gone to the far east, all bets are off!
  12. I've always thought about getting a clean power amp and a VT Bass DI, then a switcher to go between that and my 2 Darkglass preamp pedals. One of these might work better - I could just either use the fx return (or just turn down the blend) when using another preamp so the VT500 becomes a cheap power amp. Switching would be difficult though without a custom switch box.
  13. [media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yTezrda44qo[/media] Made in Korea unlike their more expensive amps, you can preorder for £450 here: http://www.effectpowersupplies.com/tech-21-vt-bass-500-5650-p.asp Although I would wait to see what Thomanns prices are!
  14. I would contact then directly and ask - I have heard from people that have paid them a visit to check out their wares: http://www.walbasses.co.uk/Contact%20us Otherwise there are places like the Bass Gallery and Bass Direct which might have a used one in from time to time: http://thebassgallery.com/catalogsearch/result/index/?manufacturer=356&q=wal
  15. I would try an octave pedal like the Aguilar Octamizer. It generates a synthetic note an octave below (so you generally play higher up on the neck) , you can adjust the bass/octave levels separately and there's a tone control to adjust how clean/raunchy the synth sound is. Also there are some great synth sounds in the Zoom B1on, which for 45 notes has to be the biggest bargain going considering what it can do. That will open you up to a whole world of effects plus throw in a tuner, drum machine, looper and headphone amp into the bargain.
  16. You could add a depth control similar to the Supercollider to control the amount of bass hitting the front end of the circuit!
  17. [quote name='mazdah' timestamp='1429653219' post='2753751'] In US - Hartke (you can call Larry Hartke himself!), Mesa, Peavey, Kustom (they had great customer service for Groove heads few years ago). [/quote] I hear good things about Aguilar too.
  18. Orange may not state a 5 year warranty like Ashdown, buy they fixed my amp which I bought second hand a few years ago free of charge, so they are good eggs also!
  19. [quote name='NoirBass' timestamp='1429632503' post='2753450'] I was hoping for a low gain / clean DI in a Boss shaped box. Guess I'll find out in a couple of days. :-) [/quote] Yup, it's clean with the gain down low. I was just hoping for a bit more of a VT Bass / Darkglass Vintage amp like overdrive sound from it, but it wasn't quite what I was looking for. It does sound great at high gain though!
  20. I always though the BB415 used a ceramic P pup... I found a few references to it being ceramic on the interweb: http://www.wollongongmusic.com.au/ProductDetails.asp?ProdID=1290 http://www.harmonycentral.com/reviews/product/yamaha-bb415-5-string-bass/602082 And also some saying it's alnico! http://www.gak.co.uk/en/yamaha-bb-415-orange-metallic/16121 http://www.musiciansfriend.com/bass/yamaha-bb415-5-string-bass#productDetail
  21. [quote name='pete.young' timestamp='1429343186' post='2750535'] Got a lot of basses with ivory fretboards, have you? If the folklore that ebony boards sit between maple and rosewood in terms of brightness is true, that blows away the hardness argument since ebony is a lot harder and more dense than either rosewood or maple. Beedster you need to get some otherwise identical necks made up with different board materials and test them all on the same body with the same brand of strings to eliminate as many sources of error as possible. [/quote] It's not really hardness or density I would say... From my engineering days there are many different properites that mean very specific things - hardness, density, strength, stiffness, toughness, ductility, malleability, etc. In terms of these material properties I would say stiffness is more relevant. Also the resonant frequency of the resulting object and how the internal structure of the wood dampens vibrations e.g. widely spaced grains would be more prone to flexing and rubbing against each other, converting vibration to heat. But I think my sponge analogy still stands!
  22. Just had one arrive and had a quick play (before swiftly selling it on!). At low gain levels it's a great DI preamp box (if you get an XLR adapter) if you play with distortion and need a cab sim on your DI. At medium gain it sounds horrible to me and the blend really does sound like two separate signals. At high gain though, it's a fantastic fuzz! The fact that the treble control sounds like a resonant lowpass filter only adds to the synthyness (is that a word?). It can sound similar to the Diabolik at low squish settings in fact. So this makes two mislabelled bass fuzz pedals now released by Boss! I'd keep this for fuzz if I didn't have a TAFM and Diabolik. I am keeping the ODB-3, which at high gain is a pretty extreme and unique pedal. People will be upgrading from the ODB-3 to the BB1-X in their droves though, and for most people's purposes it's clearly the better of the two. But if you are looking for an overdrive/amp sim/DI, I'd take Tech 21 or Darkglass's offerings over this any day.
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