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dannybuoy

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Everything posted by dannybuoy

  1. When it comes to usability issues like you describe, there are no real differences between mass produced or boutique - there are only good and bad designs (and designers). I wouldn't be surprised if some MXR pedals are designed by one guy, just like a boutique shop. Taking another factor into account which you didn't mention - build quality. I have seen good and bad examples from both camps also. There are only good and bad builds (and builders!).
  2. Yep, Vintage Deluxe is perhaps more suitable than the B7K, just checked out the OP's band which is 70s rock covers!
  3. [quote name='elephantgrey' timestamp='1424895544' post='2701726'] You can get the B1On fo £50. Newer modling, 5 fx at once. Seams the better option to me. [/quote] ^ This. I have the B1Xon (with the added expression pedal), I don't actually use it much but it sounds pretty decent and has most of the same models/fx as the B3 plus a few more that the B3 lacks. Plus a tuner, drum machine and looper, it's a bargain. The B3 has a USB audio interface and XLR output though.
  4. No tone suck from my new Phase 90 either.
  5. Model P was my thought also given the description: http://www.dimarzio.com/pickups/bass/standard-bass/dimarzio-model-p
  6. The maple one sounds too thin, I prefer the rosewood in that video!
  7. I can't recommend this little box enough: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qEsOlOX993A
  8. I replaced my Small Stone Nano with an MXR Phase 90 - I much prefer it, it sounds brighter and you can hear more of the natural tone of the instrument coming through. I always felt like the Small Stone sounded better with some clean blended in as it takes over the tone too much. I listened to lots of demos of MXR phasers and found I preferred the more prominent slightly distorted midrange of the modern block logo Phase 90 to the classic script logo version. Every boutique clone of the MXR I could find was a clone of the script version (because older is cooler), so I assumed the Mooer would be too, hence going MXR. The modern ones are true bypass too, which was a relief as tone suck was a widely reported issue with the earlier models. The other great thing about the MXR is the single knob with the rubber surround makes it really easy to tweak the speed with your foot as you play. But I doubt you'd be disappointed with the Mooer, plus it has the benefit of being cheaper and smaller!
  9. Given that you play metal - Darkglass B7K.
  10. People sell these? The best vintage sounding overdrive out there, jump on it!
  11. Lots of bands started where the bass player had never even picked up a bass before becoming the band's bassist - Black Sabbath spring to mind!
  12. I don't suppose you or your bass player have tried the Keeley Neutrino? Haven't seen many comparisons about between the two!
  13. The pre is hot but mine doesn't distort - as long as you pad the input or turn down the gain on your amp you'll be fine. I use an Orange Terror... are you sure the distortion is coming from the bass and not the next thing in the chain? I tried the Stinger and it sounded dull to me, so put the original back in. I have a John East Stingray pre to try out next when I get time to mess about with it!
  14. The SFT is certainly warm, but doesn't have really deep bass I find. If you try and boost it it sounds bad since the EQ is before the clipping section. Nice pedal though, and it was my main od until the Bearfoot Blueberry arrived (so check that out too!). The BB Preamp is another one worth a look, since it has a hi/lo EQ that can give a healthy wallop of boost. I hear that the Digitech Hardwire CM-2 is comparable if you want something cheaper and easier to find. Downside of the Beta though is that the bass boost is always there, and it always sounds a tad dark even with the tone all the way up.
  15. +1 for the Beta. Definitely fat in the lows, it boost the bass.
  16. Idiot Box Blower Box. Seriously the best bargain drive pedal out there - you have to order from the US but it's worth it. It's like a RAT but with crazy amount of low end on tap, and with a growly bass like a J / PJ / Ray and a pick, I have not found anything better for aggressive sounds. It offers something very different to the VMT and BBM, which I have too. The demos concentrate on the high gain sounds but there are some lower gain examples too (which is where it sounds best), check[color=#141414][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,] this video at 6:45:[/font][/color] http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gbIFevxp-1Q#t=405 [media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gbIFevxp-1Q[/media]
  17. Those adapters can work but since the inputs are not buffered and connected directly to each other, it can sometimes produce strange results depending on the pedals in question. Worth a try though. By the way, any blender pedal can be used to combine 2 signals - just plug into the input and return, ignoring the send. I'd recommend one of these since not only will you have the possibility of a phase switch, but you can also repurpose it as a standard wet/dry blend at a later date when you next have different ideas and change your pedalboard.
  18. This would almost fit the bill, but only does 9/12/18v: http://www.cioks.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=75&Itemid=90
  19. dannybuoy

    The OWL

    A owl?! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TQMsgDnH0j8
  20. The best sounding P I ever played was a Classic 50s, but I found the neck too wide and the fingerboard edge too sharp, not a good combination for my small hands. But a used US standard would give you the best value (and resale value)!
  21. If you're considering the Beta, check out the Beaefoot Blueberry too (similar but ten times better if you ask me!). Pedals respond in very different ways to different players and basses (and ears!), so expect a long journey ahead of trying different things out you see what works for you!
  22. I didn't think it sounded that great in the online demos on Youtube, the octave sounded quite warbly. An average overdrive with a sub-par octaver in a cool-looking box, if you ask me!
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