dannybuoy

[quote name='chrisanthony1211' timestamp='1413626858' post='2580252'] I'm interested to know abit about the science, what is the problem with the design vs science? [/quote] One mantra of cab design is that you can choose two out of small size, deep lows, and loudness. The design of these cabs means they are very small and deep in the lows, but very inefficient compared to other cabs, meaning they need a lot of power to get to gigging volume. Fortunately the Orange Terror Bass is a very powerful head so this is rarely a problem! The other thing is people like small cabs mainly for their lightness, but this one is small and heavy. Also I believe that even though you have 2x12 inch speakers in there, with this design it can only put out the same volume as a 1x12. The only thing the second speaker brings to the table is the benefit of being able to use a smaller enclosure, but at the expense of added weight. I'm no speaker expert, but that's what I've gleaned from reading previous threads anyhow!

[quote name='ras52' timestamp='1413617114' post='2580114'] Space? Anyone looking at just the dots or just the TAB will need to turn the page twice as often as they would otherwise. [/quote] Who said the tab and notation need to go on the same page? They could be separated you know.

I kinda wish I remembered to try this out before selling this combo on, the main reason I sold it was because I didn't like how it sounded with fuzz. So got an Orange AD200B and Matamp 2x12 for a bit instead, until I got sick of carrying it! I've avoided tweetered cabs ever since, although I know that tweeter was just a bad example. I really like the horn in the Orange OBC410 for example. The thing is most cabs would probably sound better with full range going to the main speaker so it can at least output something in the 5kHz region. Am I right in thinking that in the majority of cabs that have a crossover and tweeter, if you turn the tweeter off, the crossover is still active at 2-4kHz on the woofer, making it sound darker than if the woofer was just hooked up directly?

I've got the Blower Box, never tried the COG. But the Blower Box is capable of insane low end boost. It looks like the TK421 just has a low pass filter tone control, so probably has decent, but not boosted, low end. The TK421X though lets you blend in clean lowpassed low end so you can in effect boost the bass that way. What I really like about the Blower Box is that it when played with a pick to really bring out the snarling top end, you can still have gobs of thunderous low end underneath it!

Yes learning to read music will make you a better musician, and good on you for doing so. But this does not mean that musicians should be force fed musical notation and denied tab, for that is akin to saying that we should translate everything on basschat into Latin to make us better linguists! Or that we should type all our responses in 1s and 0s to make us better computer scientists! I would hazard a guess that most bassists/guitarists do not read music well, at least not to the level where they would be easily able to play something quickly by looking at a page. I think the main reason for this, at least for me, is not born out of ignorance or laziness, but more that we already have a commonplace system that is better suited for our instruments, that removes any ambiguity over which octave or position to play in, and is easier to translate visually. To me traditional musical notation is like a cipher, I can decode it into tab in my head, but only very slowly. I prefer to visualise scales etc as moveable patterns on the fretboard, the traditional musical notation system just doesn't sit comfortably in my brain! Of course if I wanted to become a pro session player, or be able to adapt / play music written by others more easily I should look to brush up on my reading skills, and maybe one day I will. But for now my time is limited, bass is more of a hobby and if every now and then if I want to do an online lesson or learn a piece of music, gimme the goddam tab! The original question was whether the OP should offer transcriptions in both forms. If you want the maximum amount of people to get the benefit from them, then why not?

Nice job! Maybe you just got lucky with the neck wood - when wood is plain-sawn, the cuts from the centre end up with the grain aligned the same way as most quarter-sawn pieces, i.e. with the grain going in straight lines along the neck. But if they're all this way then that makes these even more of a bargain!

There are much better cabs out there, I'd get the head and separate cab!

[quote name='paul_5' timestamp='1413463529' post='2578464']nobody wants a sloppy slapper.[/quote] Speak for yourself!

[quote name='Lucien' timestamp='1413143726' post='2575281'] Here is my Harley Benton PB-50, just refinished in blue (a kind of lake placid blue). [url="http://postimg.org/image/guw1nirtz/full/"][/url] [url="http://postimage.org/"]free upload image[/url] Next up I'll relic it, just some light relic but with (I hope) a proper finish aging and hardware wear. I am going for that Fender CS 55' relic look. Also, the bass has been heavilly modded with all new electronic and wiring, the only thing stock is the wilkinson pickup, but I'm planning on swapping it for a Duncan Antiquity. This is my main bass (dispite the price) and I love it! So, what are your thoughts? [/quote] Did you do the refin yourself? Otherwise for the cost of a HB + refin you could've got a Squier Classic Vibe that already comes in the same colour!

[quote name='grenadilla' timestamp='1413198290' post='2575666']Over on TalkBass a 500 Kustom is getting rave reviews. [/quote] It is indeed, I've been thinking of checking one out: http://www.muziker.de/bassgitarren/bass-verstarker-topteile/ultralight-bassverstarker/p/16723-kustom-KXB500

The matte sanded effect on an ash body is my favourite finish. I've been wanting a Sandberg with the black ash finish for a while, but not liking the position of the MM pup. Hmm, maybe I should book a week off of work! I would go for a 5 string Pingray with wenge neck, ebony or purpleheart board, black hardware, Hipshot ultralite lollipop tuners, and an Audere pre if it was my project.

Classic Vibe gets my vote. Put TI flats on the fiesta red one and you have a cheap Pino bass!

Nice work! Learning 'It Gets Funkier' is on my to-do list!

You've got the bass - you tell us if it's any good or not! They are sought after from that era, certainly better quality than most cheap basses, certainly good enough to gig with unless there are any issues with it.

[quote name='1976fenderhead' timestamp='1412846006' post='2572539'] My one niggle with this is the lack of an overall volume control, or individual volume controls for each voice. What if I want to use full wet octave up but find it appears much louder than the dry sound? What if I want to mix in a bit of octave down but find the same thing? [/quote] This is the sole reason why this pedal does not interest me, I had the same issue with their Hazarai pedal. Lack of individual volumes (or blend plus master volume) cripples their Bass Big Muff too.

I've been in bars where a pint glass goes round and everyone puts a pound in, but there wasn't any live music as far as I can recall!

Since he doesn't actually say in the ad that it's been modded - there is a chance that the bridge pickup was added by Fender when it was ordered from the custom shop! Just sayin'

I kept my LaBellas on for quite a while and they did get better but not quite as smooth as I was used to with other strings. Giving them a good rub down, or just playing bass after eating a bucket of KFC sounds like a good idea. I thought the TIs I first slapped on my P were silky smooth straight out of the packet, but I fitted some to another bass recently and they felt quite sticky too, so maybe I was wrong! Pyramids though - they are like eels!

My favourite flats on a P are TI's, I believe they are what Pino uses also. Lots of midrange character, very compliant, and silky smooth once broken in. I also really dug the Pyramid Golds for a bit more heavy thud, they also sound broken in straight away and are the smoothest feeling strings ever. I didn't really get on with Chromes or LaBellas - too high in tension and they felt stickly compared to the TIs and Pyramids. The last P I bought came strung with Rotosound flats and I was very impressed with those too, very bright sounding and nice to play, probably a fairly new set. I took them off in favour of rounds fairly quickly as I already have another P with TIs, but I think I will put them back on at some point and give them more playing time.

I hear the LH500 has a tube pre, but it is very clean - which suggests it's not that high gain. So if you boost into it, you might start to add a little bit of tube compression and distortion as well as volume, which sounds like a good thing, as long as you don't boost it to the point where it sounds nasty. You won't damage the amp like this, it's hard to say about the speaker but probably not - what is the cab rated for and how many ohms is it?

If going for a sea theme... Cthulhu!

The Unibass has 2 outputs, so no need to split your signal, you can drive an amp from each output. Just plug your bass straight into the Unibass rather than hit your bass preamp first. You can then turn the guitar on and off by turning the Unibass on and off. Then if you want to be able to drop your bass out, easiest solution is to use a tuner to mute that line.

Also, extensions such as AVI and MP4 are 'containers' - they can hold lots of different video formats. It's possible to convert losslessly from AVI to MP4 if they both contain audio/video streams that each format supports. This also means you could re-encode an AVI with embedded MPEG2 video into an AVI with embedded MPEG4 video for example. There is no such thing as a 'standard' AVI format.

Look in the settings - if you are re-encoding video, there should be some options to change the resolution and/or bitrate. Otherwise you are just converting using whatever default settings your converter app is using, which won't give you much control over the resulting size.

If you're having the switch, may as well make it a series/parallel single, it's not any extra effort, just have to get the correct on-on-on switch!