dannybuoy

This is probably the most bargainous rig out there at the mo! The wattage rating of a cab has nothing to do with how loud it can go, it will tell you how many watts you can pump through it before it will break, and they are usually expressed in average RMS values. Also, a 4 ohm cab will let the head run at full power of 400W RMS, whereas the head will only be producing just over half of that when pushing an 8 ohm cab. You probably want a 4-ohm 2x12 or 4x10 with a power rating of at least 400W, ideally a bit more. This looks like a good deal: [url="http://www.gear4music.com/Guitar-and-Bass/Ashdown-MAG414T-Deep-Bass-Amp-Cab/C5W"]http://www.gear4musi...ass-Amp-Cab/C5W[/url] Otherwise, a couple of 12" cabs would cost a bit more but would be easier to cart about and would give you an option of just taking the one to quiet gigs / rehearsals (2x 8 ohm cabs equals a 4 ohm load): [url="http://www.andertons.co.uk/bass-cabs/pid24233/cid686/ashdown-mibass-mi12-1x12-cab.asp"]http://www.andertons...12-1x12-cab.asp[/url]

Depends on so many things, what bass you use, what amp/cab you use, your playing style, your musical genre, size/cost limitations, etc. If you want the 'best' 'distortion', the Brimstone XD-1 takes some beating, if you have the cash and the board space. [url="http://www.brimstoneaudio.com/crossover-distortion.html"]http://www.brimstone...distortion.html[/url] [url="http://www.prymaxevintage.com/brimstone-audio-xd-1-crossover-distortion/"]http://www.prymaxevi...ver-distortion/[/url] [media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6pHo6fPdPvM[/media] The EBS Billy Sheehan looks cool too: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8ch5ZIJgp2Q But there may well be other pedals more suited to you depending on your needs!

Agreed, I've put V1 of the VT Bass through a real time analyser and with the bass, mids, and character at noon and the treble at 10 o'clock, it was pretty much flat with a 5k speaker sim rolloff, and you can dial in a mid boost from there. The LH500 has a passive EQ so mids are probably cut only, if so that knob should be cranked and then backed off a little to taste.

The Fishman will give you an EQ, but the VT has built in distortion and sounds more like an Ampeg, so whether or not they can do a similar job, depends on the job! Personally, I don't have a major problem with the gain of the stock valves in the old model. I keep the gain set low, and have an XLR attenuator adaptor should I find the DI output to be too hot. Put up a wanted ad here and you'll be bound to find some cheap valves, but they're not that expensive new either (check out Hot Rox and Watford Valves).

SBMM Ray4 - Stingray on the cheap with a Jazz width neck!

The Orange will sound clean if you turn the gain right down. The EQ on it is not very flexible, and the amp is quite dark sounding overall, but it's perfect for rock and blues! It's loud as hell and has real thump down low where some other class D heads are lacking. If you're not just after micro heads, check out the Markbass TTE500. The Aguilar TH500, TC RH750 and GK MB500 Fusion, and Ashdown MiBass/Rootmaster are all worth a look too. The Ashdown LB30/CTM30 probably won't cut it volume wise. Avoid the Ampeg PF500 as they are unreliable.

Nobody said you had to boost 31Hz, it could be used to cut down there too!

I think the Aphex alignment trickery just applies to the top end, the 'big bottom' circuit is some kind of bass boost with a limiter to compress the lows I think. But yes, it does the job very well, and might be just the ticket if you just want to fatten up an OC-2.

If you want bright sounding nylons, try the LaBella 'white' tapewounds. They're not really white, the outer wrap is transparent: http://www.labella.com/category/products/bass/white-nylon-tape/ http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YNdiB2gAUSA

If someone is dumb enough to pay £2000 for an iPhone with Flappy Bird, then they deserve everything they get. What was more astounding is people were flogging Android devices and jailbroken iPhones for inflated prices, both of which can simply install a pirate version of the game. Not to mention the fact that it's a sh1t game.

[quote name='Me And My Bass' timestamp='1396476755' post='2414243'] I have a dencity hulk and it is mega sh*t you're pants sub! [/quote] Grammar - it's the difference between knowing your pants, and knowing you're pants.

http://youtu.be/ecy9AgFqKH0 Godlyke Great Divide: http://www.godlyke.com/totally-wycked-audio-effects-pedals/hand-built/great-divide-2-analog-synth-octaver Mantic Density Hulk: http://www.manticeffects.com/products/density-hulk http://www.manticeffects.com/products/density-hulk-pro DOD are also supposed to be reissuing their Meatbox pedal.

I just make spaceship noises with my Carbon Copy fed into a Small Stone and find it very easy to control with the side of my foot!

Hmm, now I want to try a Grabber!

http://basschat.co.uk/topic/232704-zoom-ms-70cdr-chorusdelayreverb-modeller/

I'm selling a Zoom MS-70CDR that models all of the best delay, reverb and chorus pedals going. Tons of fun, but I don't get much mileage out of it on bass!

Yes, I did forget to mention that the 20 series is hand built in Japan by Yamaha's top luthiers, all the lower series are built on a production line in Indonesia.

The rehearsal rooms I used to use (Rooz in London) had Orange stacks in each room for guitar and bass, with a 115 and a 410 and AD200B. They usually only had one cable though with one or the other plugged in, so I made sure the 410 was plugged in as it had more top end. I only recommended the OBC410 as I assumed you were set on a matching setup, but if you're open to other options,that's a big can of worms! An efficient cab produces more volume with the the same amount of watts than an inefficient cab. That link I posted earlier (http://barefacedbass.com/bgm-columns.htm) contains a bunch of articles that will teach you almost everything you need to know. Check out his Barefaced cab range too!

Same reasons people buy most luxury items - they appreciate their finer qualities and can afford to pay for them. Apart from the voodoo heat/humidity and vibration treatments, it would have the very best quality wood selected (it has mahogany instead of nato in the neck stripes too), will have more attention to detail on the fit and finish, and better fretwork. The body is also a bit more sculpted on the 20 series - look at the reflection on the forearm contour for example: I have the 1025X and feel it was a big step up from the BB415. I would be very tempted if a 2025X came up for a good price!

Normally for fingerstyle I like dark warm tones, but every now and than I like to play with a pick on the P pup, and as Lozz says, switching on the VT sounds like you just slapped on a fresh pair of rounds! For a good starting point, set bass, mids and character at 12 o'clock. Treble and gain at 10 o'clock and adjust to taste, then volume set to wherever it's equal volume to the pedal being off (which we refer to as 'unity gain' around these parts).

Those two are your finest options. Kiogon can make it with solderless screw connectors as well, to make your life even easier!

I recommend a BB as above, although the BB1025X is a good step up if it's within budget, and the BB2025X if you've just won the lottery. 18mm spacing at the bridge, very narrow at the nut (42mm wide). Pickup selector switch and volume/tone knobs. How much are you looking to spend? [media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rscMwAdyhLE[/media]