dannybuoy

Yup, make sure there is an actual problem there before attempting to fix it! Not all horns/tweeters are fizzy sounding. I've been scarred by the horrible one in the Markbass CMD121P I used to own!

Powering pedals from the tuner seems a bit pointless to me, if you have to buy a special cable, you may as well get a regular daisy chain and plug your power supply into that. That way you won't be limited to the 200mA max output from the Korg Pitchblack, and you won't be up the creek when the output on your Pitchblack decides to die like mine did!

I'm not sure, but drivers typically come in regular 4/8/16 ohm impedances, so I assumed an 8 ohm cab would have an 8 ohm driver, and the crossover/horn would only have a minimal impact on the overall impedance? If doing so, I would ensure the main driver is hooked up directly to the input to ensure that the crossover isn't rolling off any of the top end going to the main driver. An alternative would be to just place something in front of the tweeter like an old sock to tame it!

It's quite simple to get the devs to add a tag to the page headers to request IE10 compatibility mode - I suggest you guys look into this. Until it gets sorted out, there is a workaround for IE. Open the compatibility view settings: [IMG]http://i.imgur.com/6NxXWlA.png[/IMG] Click add: [IMG]http://i.imgur.com/WNLRikh.png[/IMG] Now the bug will be gone, but the page won't render correctly in all places since it defaults to IE7 mode: [IMG]http://i.imgur.com/Sw71ney.png[/IMG] If you press F12 and scroll down on the left to choose the last icon at the bottom, you can set it to IE10 mode: [IMG]http://i.imgur.com/tkiu7U3.png[/IMG] However, this mode only remains set whilst you have the settings box open, close it and it'll go back to IE7 mode. I'm not sure how to get it to stick to IE10 mode without requesting Microsoft to add this site to their compatibility list, or getting the site altered.

[quote name='skej21' timestamp='1395924091' post='2407948'] To be fair, ask her and her dad to explain the scientific justification they have for making this obscure statement. They clearly THINK they know why your bass has blown it and will be able to explain how the bass can affect the PA in detail to you Either that or you'll call their bluff and get to watch them stumble and squirm before you emerge triumphantly with a 'it can't be me because...' statement, informed by the mighty knowledge of Basschat. Also. Please film and post the latter [/quote] It's because if you don't use proper bass bins, all that bass can't get out of the desk properly, where it builds up to excessive levels and causes untold damage. Simple electrical engineering principles!

You'd have to try it I guess! Depends whether the DI is too hot because of the V2 tube itself, or because the V1 tube is feeding it too hot a signal. Perhaps it's a bit of both. If I had to guess, I'd say changing V1 would make the gain knob range more usable, and changing V2 would lower volume through the fx loop and DI.

If you check the diagram in the manual, it looks like the second tube only drives the FX loop and DI so therefore shouldn't have an impact on the main tone - so just changing the V1 tube, which should be the one on the right nearest the input should be enough to tame the gain control. [IMG]http://i.imgur.com/SXtkx8w.png[/IMG]

There's a lot more bottom end at the end of the video.

When I was in a band, I hardly bought anything and was happy with my sound. Now I'm not, I'm still happy with my sound, but because I have some disposable income, I buy and sell a lot of (mainly used) gear. Everything can be sold on again, and if I end up making a loss I just see it as a rental fee in return for me getting to play with new toys all the time! I want to join another band sometime this year, but I don't really have the time, I'm too busy messing around with different basses/amps/pedals!

Commonly known as insert cables, as the send/return jacks on mixers and rack gear often use TRS jacks like this too. There are right angled versions in existence too: http://www.rubadub.co.uk/hosa-stp-201rr-insert-cable-1-4-trs-right-angled-jack-to-dual-1-4-right-angled-jack-1m?___store=default&gclid=CM3yjKvTsL0CFdHLtAodqQMAeQ

Westone Thunder - they are well made and you can pick up some right bargains on eBay. Hamfist has modded a few, here's an example:

[quote name='charic' timestamp='1395838238' post='2406873'] Add £9 to your budget [url="http://www.gak.co.uk/en/line-6-lowdown-studio-110/23607?gclid=CImZ88iesL0CFY_HtAodJhwAKw"]http://www.gak.co.uk...CFY_HtAodJhwAKw[/url] [/quote] Good suggestion, but you'll have to look for a used one: [size=3][color=#80A0C0][font=Tahoma][b]Sorry, this product has been discontinued[/b][/font][/color][/size] Quite easy to find on eBay / Gumtree / BC though!

[quote name='Cosmo Valdemar' timestamp='1395838280' post='2406874'] I was all ready to buy a couple of these when I noticed the horn is always on. [/quote] I guess you could always unplug it?! If you want cheap, light, portable, and no horn, you could always give the sealed Ampeg SVT210AV cabs a whirl. They are like one quarter of an Ampeg 8x10 fridge, and two of em stacked up high sounds great!

The curves of number 1 fit best with that body shape I reckon. A nice dark red tort would look cool!

The opposite usually happens to me whenever I take a pedal apart!

Just looked it up in the manual, the graphs show that the MiBass 2.0 is 400W RMS at 4ohms, 250W RMS at 8ohms. Therefore you should be fine, but my advice about listening for the cab being over stressed still applies!

I have tried all of those. Brite Flats and the D'Addarios are similar in that they are not a true flatwound, they are rounds ground down to be smooth. D'Addarios are a bit rougher and brighter than the GHS. I like Brite Flats on fretless, but now using Status half rounds on there as they are cheaper and easier to get hold of... and perhaps even better. I LOVE Pyramid flats though. Those and TI's are my favourite flatwounds ever. Pyramids feel a bit more solid, slippery, and have a mellower sound than the TIs. I've not tried them on a shortie, but I would be tempted go Pyramid. They are expensive though, similar price to TIs, but they will last forever(ish)!

Fingers crossed they make a TTE500 without any yellow in it, and I might be tempted to get one!

You might be ok if your band isn't very loud, but you could knacker the cab if you run it at full volume. Listen carefully and you can tell when the cab is distorting, then don't turn up beyond that point! If you want small and light, but able to take a lot of punishment, I'd be looking at a Barefaced super compact, or a pair of those Ashdown cabs instead of one. Perhaps try it with one cab and add a second if you feel it's not giving you enough?