dannybuoy

This review has sold me even further: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DJlstv35nyc

Got my Ray4 yesterday from a trade, the cheaper version of your Ray34CA. Sounds great, although the output is rather hot so it didn't play nice with certain pedals. It sounds like a Stingray alright, I'd be perfectly happy to leave it stock, but going to experiment with it nonetheless. I'm fitting a 2-band Retrovibe Stinger EQ to it later today, then will think about pickups. Maybe a Basslines ceramic job, I really like the aggressive sound this has right now as it's unlike any of my other basses, and Alnico might mellow it out too much. I also have a Westone Thunder with P and MM pickups and a 3-band John East Stingray pre. This one's going to get a set of flats, and maybe some vintage style alnico pickups and swap out the East for an Audere pre with the Z-mode switch and a passive tone control. Hopefully I will then be happy with these so I can get back to playing with them instead of fiddling with them!

Wolfmother - Dimension: [media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bjJ7KCBykVU[/media] Also The Hives - Hate To Say I Told You So (mainly for the bass face in the solo!): http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Uz1Jwyxd4tE

I'm an PC / Android kinda guy, yet I am going to recommend an iPad purely because they are great for musicians since there are so many cheap audio interfaces and audio apps for iOS, for studying/practising/recording as well as amp modelling and FX. So take that as a genuine recommendation of what I think might be best for you rather than just telling you to use what I use! I use my Nexus 7 (Google's Android tablet) more than my laptop/desktop these days, and only use the PC for work. If you don't think that you might want to try some of the many iOS audio apps further down the line, then an Android tablet would be much cheaper than an iPad. My Dad has been struggling with his laptop lately, brought it round for a reinstallation, saw my Nexus and bought one himself straight away - he now only uses his laptop to manage his photo collection!

I only like the SFT on low gain on the verge of breakup, it sounds too farty and lacking in lows with the gain up. According to reports on TB, this pedal doesn't suffer from the same 'flatulence'. Just waiting for Prymaxe to get them back in stock and I shall place my order!

I've not got anything set up for recording at the moment, but I may get round to it someday! Tried it with an active SUB Ray4 yesterday and it sounds pretty good! This pedal definitely likes a buffered signal going into it.

[quote name='Bazeley' timestamp='1394191960' post='2388919'] I also think that an AD200B teetering on top of a Barefaced cab might look stupid….Maybe with a terror 500 but maybe not a big-assed tube head! haha! [/quote] Not on the [url="http://barefacedbass.com/product-range/69er.htm"]Barefaced 69'er[/url] - it's designed to be used with big valve amps: Although I would enquire about getting one covered in orange tolex if it was to go with an Orange head!

I have TIs on my P and nickel rounds on my BB1025X. Never tried flats on the BB since it sounds so good with rounds, but it you have two of them, you should definitely go for it. TIs are great, they're not as floppy as people make them out to be. A lot more going on in the midrange than traditional flats, but you can always roll the tone off to make them sound more old skool. I don't like the sticky feel and high tension of Chromes and LaBellas. Pyramid flats are also a great string, but again, not cheap. Others that I've not tried but get a lot of love are the GHS Precisions, Fender, Sadwosky and Lakland flats. [i]A note about stringing through the body....[/i] On my P bass, the break angle of the strings going over the bridge saddles looks something like 30 degrees, going over a nice smooth round barrel, where it has an inch or so of length before it encounters the sharp angle going through the body. On the BB, the strings sit on a sharp fulcrum followed by an immediate 45 degree angle. On the P Bass, the sharpest angle is at a fixed position on the base of the bridge plate, but on the BB, the sharpest angle is on the saddle, so I would be very wary of fitting any flats through the body on this bridge, especially if you need to adjust the intonation after fitting them (which you will). Thankfully you can still string through the bridge, I think this would be safest option! Stringing through the body is supposed to increase sustain, which you don't really want with flats anyway!

I bought a used 600 and sold it within days. I found it lacking in volume and punch compared to the Orange Terror - I could max the volume on the Genz in my bedroom, bang an open E and the built in power management would just clamp right down on the note. With the Orange Terror, I have feared to turn the master past 10 o'clock (and that's with the gain nearly all the way down), and it just thumps you in the chest. Also I didn't like the big hole in the midrange and found myself fighting the EQ. I know the Orange EQ is pants as well, but at least I don't have a problem getting a good sound out of it. I might have got on better with the 900 and different cabs though (tried it with a sealed Matamp 2x12 at the time).

Depending on the amp, the light could come on when it is actually overloaded and clipping in a bad way, some amps light up when the input signal is in the ideal range, and they might have a tube stage to introduce soft clipping which is often desirable. On other amps, the light comes on when the power amp is reaching it's limit and the built-in limiter kicks in. Simply turn it down the gain if you hear unwanted distortion and don't pay to much attention to the light!

Microphonic tubes perhaps? Take the main cover off (leave the internal one on!), remove the aluminium tube sleeves, and power it up. Give the tubes a small tap and see if it makes a sound (it shouldn't). If it does, replace the tube.

Mine did that when I got it, it's just the case which is folded sheet metal, so it can flap about a bit when hit with just the right frequency. Take the main lid off, and the cover underneath that. On this inside cover, I stuck some foam draft excluder strips between the gaps where the sheet metal joins in the corners. No more buzzing after that. Fitted a silent fan too and now it's nice and quiet!

How loud do you need to be? I'd be looking at a Bergantino NV115, or a Barefaced 69 'er. The latter is a 6x10, but weighs less than most 4x10s.

Have you got one?

Some of these are brilliant: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Alesis-3630-Daft-Punk-Sidechain-/111289489443?pt=UK_Musical_Instruments_Outboards_Effects_MJ&hash=item19e95ed823 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bel-BD-2400-Vintage-Delay-AMS-NEVE-/111289632084?pt=UK_Musical_Instruments_Outboards_Effects_MJ&hash=item19e9610554 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Clariphonic-kush-audio-Parallel-Eq-/111292367525?pt=UK_Musical_Instruments_Outboards_Effects_MJ&hash=item19e98ac2a5

Just traded one pedal for another with Mikkel, very smooth transaction, cheers! He even recorded some clips of said pedal on request, top man.

Sort of... the Darkstars were inspired by the original Bi-Sonics that came with these very basses. That's probably the new reissue Starfire bass that came out last year, I don't know if the Bi-Sonics they come with sound the same as the old ones. Bound to be plenty of discussion on the subject elsewhere!

Very good. Guild Starfire in case anyone was wondering! http://www.guildguitars.com/en-GB/instruments/details/?partno=3792400866

Damn you Ste, this thread is making me want to buy an iPad next!

There's a [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]7lb 6 oz Mike Lull P Bass for sale here for £1350 if you're feeling flush: [/font][/color]http://basschat.co.uk/topic/229647-mike-lull-p4-final-price-drop

Interested on your thoughts on the Pro vs the Classic Pro?

I've used em for ages and am very happy with them. I have a steel set too which I'll be trying out next time I change!

Easy enough to trim the silks with a stanley blade!

Sold a pedal to AK, fast payment and good comms. Cheers!