dannybuoy

Wrong I'm afraid, I wish it were that simple. To fix it you'll either need a new blender pedal (like the Xotic X-Blender or Wounded Paw) that has a phase invert switch, or stick another pedal in the loop just before or after the Bassballs that also inverts the phase. Many simple boost pedals invert the phase, e.g. my Cream Pie, Phat Phuk, and even SFT do.

[quote name='Al Heeley' timestamp='1337384170' post='1659308'] i always prefer the spiky side on the pedals then they stick to the carpet when i'm playing with them off-board.[/quote] I use spiky side on the pedals and that's the one thing that annoys me about them - I don't want them to stick to the carpet! The other reason to go that way is that most others do too, so if you buy a used pedal with velcro already on, you are ready to rock.

[quote name='thebuckets' timestamp='1337453848' post='1660415'] These look awesome and could go on my list of amps to try before I die! Only thing that puts me off is people saying they don't handle acctive very well. I'm using a sandberg basic which has quite a powerfully preamp. Anyone used one of these with a berg or other active to good effect! [/quote] Should be fine using the amp set to active mode with the gain set low - if not you can always put a lower gain tube like a 12AT7 or 5751 in the V1 spot on the right hand side to reduce the gain.

Did you see this from earlier today? [url="http://www.geezerbutler.com/2012/05/heavy-heart/"]http://www.geezerbutler.com/2012/05/heavy-heart/[/url]

Where did you order from by the way?

You may be able to hear your rig perfectly, but what about the audience? I think of it like the famous double slit wave experiment: This is with light, but same applies to sound waves, where bright=loud and dark=quiet. Imagine this diagram looking top down at the stage and crowd with two speakers side-by-side. If you have the drivers side by side, there will be spots in the room where they cancel each other out, and other spots where they combine to make it loud. One audience member might not hear the bass properly, but move a few metres to the side and the sound changes. If you rotate that in your mind so you are now looking at a side view of the room with the speakers stacked vertically. Now the sound is much more uniform as the peaks and troughs in the combined waves only vary vertically and as long as you don't have a dead spot at typical ear level, all should sound good. Of course it's much more complicated than this because you have many different frequencies at the same time, plus not everybody is standing at the same distance from the stage. Also the wavelengths of sound are much longer than sound - not entirely sure how that would affect it but I guess it would mean the dead spots would be much further apart. It's been a long time since I did any physics at school!

TIM

Looks a bit different to the Behringer. I wonder if they cloned the VT Bass and added some more bells and whistles?

Still waiting on my new tubes and fan I ordered last weekend to arrive! But in the meantime I'll leave you with my solution to sitting an OTB on top of an Ampeg SVT210AV, which not only has a handle on top but 4 countersunk cups which are only any good if you're stacking another cab or the Micro VR head on top. This should also prevent the head going walkies and cut down vibrations which might improve tube life. Closed cell foam from ebay, cut with a stanley knife and holes made by hand with a large drillbit.

I had a Squier VM P, which I then upgraded to a USA Standard, but I preferred the sound of the Squier! I was going for an agressive roundwound tone at the time, and the VM's excel at that with their Duncan pickups and 500K pots help with the brightness too. Although now I have flats on the USA P and going for a more vintage sound it sits perfectly.

I wouldn't just stand in another room, I'd stand outside in case the building collapsed.

You will lose a little bass response from the higher cab due to loss of floor coupling, but you will gain clarity by having the cab up by your ears and having them in one vertical line prevents some of the phasing issues that you'd have putting them side by side. Lots of people are stacking a pair of Ampeg SVT210AVs on top of each other these days, and I will probably be joining them when I pick up a second one! Even though it can look a little bit silly if you have a big amp: You also have to be careful of knocking it over. I have had an over-zealous drummer fall off his stool into me and my amp - luckily it was only the little Promethean that tipped over! Of course if you play in moderately sensible bands with moderately sensible bandmates these sorts of shenanigans should never happen.

The hot DI on the Terror cab be fixed with an inline XLR attenuator. Orange should pull their finger out and listen to customers about this, it's far too hot for the majority of desks! At least it has a DI, unlike the AD200B. The lamp looks the same as the AD200B, I'm guessing it's a bulb which won't last as long as an LED. Not heard of many people blowing the lamps, but if they are bulbs rather than LEDs they should at least be easy enough to replace without soldering anything.

They pop up around the tree fiddy mark all the time on here and eBay. You could always buy used and sell for the same price after 30 days if you don't like!

Wow, I might get that Shimverb after checking demos when I get home. I was gonna get the Behringer Reverb Machine just for this mode, but this is tiny and true bypass. Can't listen to clips right now, but can anybody offer a comparison on that vs the Verbzilla Octo mode and Strymon Bluesky shimmer mode? Can you get a decent self oscillation out of the delay? It's all I use my Carbon Copy for, making spaceship noises while I play by tweaking the delay time with the side of my foot! Also the Black Secret looks like a nice RAT clone with an LM308 chip... My wallet is twitching!

BassGearMag online has an in-depth analysis of the tone controls on the Orange - if you roll the bass and treble all the way off and the mids on full it's pretty close to flat (although there is still a top end roll off that can apparently be reduced with a tube upgrade). So start there and dial in more treble, lower gain and more master volume if you need a more 'hi-fi' sound out of it. Although if you need to switch between hi-fi and vintage in the same set, maybe a TC Electronics RH450 / RH750 might be a good idea with it's programmable presets?

Just down the road from me! But I don't need it...

[quote name='Happy Jack' timestamp='1337162810' post='1656329']My hearing is near perfect, the only issue being a dip in the right ear's sensitivity at one frequency, which was apparently caused by being in the shooting team at school - in those days, ear defenders were for wimps. Allegedly. [/quote] I misread that as you being in the 'shouting' team at school, pondered that for a second then re-read it! I've noticed signs of tinnitus recently too, it's one of the factors that made me quit my loud stoner rock band. I need to get some proper moulded plugs...

I was surprised how good the comps were for a digital multi, the B2 ones were garbage but I liked these. I also preferred the phasers to my Small Stone, mainly because of the blend and I find the Small Stone to be quite overpowering.

That's what I thought too, they sounded like rejects from BGT and I had no idea who they were until they came back on and came on Eileen. Hot Chip were crap too, like Napoleon Dynamite's brother backed by The Mighty Boosh.