dannybuoy

I wouldn't just stand in another room, I'd stand outside in case the building collapsed.

You will lose a little bass response from the higher cab due to loss of floor coupling, but you will gain clarity by having the cab up by your ears and having them in one vertical line prevents some of the phasing issues that you'd have putting them side by side. Lots of people are stacking a pair of Ampeg SVT210AVs on top of each other these days, and I will probably be joining them when I pick up a second one! Even though it can look a little bit silly if you have a big amp: You also have to be careful of knocking it over. I have had an over-zealous drummer fall off his stool into me and my amp - luckily it was only the little Promethean that tipped over! Of course if you play in moderately sensible bands with moderately sensible bandmates these sorts of shenanigans should never happen.

The hot DI on the Terror cab be fixed with an inline XLR attenuator. Orange should pull their finger out and listen to customers about this, it's far too hot for the majority of desks! At least it has a DI, unlike the AD200B. The lamp looks the same as the AD200B, I'm guessing it's a bulb which won't last as long as an LED. Not heard of many people blowing the lamps, but if they are bulbs rather than LEDs they should at least be easy enough to replace without soldering anything.

They pop up around the tree fiddy mark all the time on here and eBay. You could always buy used and sell for the same price after 30 days if you don't like!

Wow, I might get that Shimverb after checking demos when I get home. I was gonna get the Behringer Reverb Machine just for this mode, but this is tiny and true bypass. Can't listen to clips right now, but can anybody offer a comparison on that vs the Verbzilla Octo mode and Strymon Bluesky shimmer mode? Can you get a decent self oscillation out of the delay? It's all I use my Carbon Copy for, making spaceship noises while I play by tweaking the delay time with the side of my foot! Also the Black Secret looks like a nice RAT clone with an LM308 chip... My wallet is twitching!

BassGearMag online has an in-depth analysis of the tone controls on the Orange - if you roll the bass and treble all the way off and the mids on full it's pretty close to flat (although there is still a top end roll off that can apparently be reduced with a tube upgrade). So start there and dial in more treble, lower gain and more master volume if you need a more 'hi-fi' sound out of it. Although if you need to switch between hi-fi and vintage in the same set, maybe a TC Electronics RH450 / RH750 might be a good idea with it's programmable presets?

Just down the road from me! But I don't need it...

[quote name='Happy Jack' timestamp='1337162810' post='1656329']My hearing is near perfect, the only issue being a dip in the right ear's sensitivity at one frequency, which was apparently caused by being in the shooting team at school - in those days, ear defenders were for wimps. Allegedly. [/quote] I misread that as you being in the 'shouting' team at school, pondered that for a second then re-read it! I've noticed signs of tinnitus recently too, it's one of the factors that made me quit my loud stoner rock band. I need to get some proper moulded plugs...

I was surprised how good the comps were for a digital multi, the B2 ones were garbage but I liked these. I also preferred the phasers to my Small Stone, mainly because of the blend and I find the Small Stone to be quite overpowering.

That's what I thought too, they sounded like rejects from BGT and I had no idea who they were until they came back on and came on Eileen. Hot Chip were crap too, like Napoleon Dynamite's brother backed by The Mighty Boosh.

Wow, I didn't know DV were so accommodating! Remember you can also make a real upgrade in sound quality by swapping tubes in the Terror, improving the overdrive sound and getting rid of the mud. I've got some on order, but if your want to try this for the least possible outlay, try one of the Tung Sol reissue 12AX7s from Hot Rox for just over a tenner in the V1 position on the right hand side.

Gooped PCBs inside metal boxes inside metal boxes!

Can't find a schematic for these anywhere but there is a German chap selling clones: [url="http://www.ebay.de/itm/DISTORSORE-VALVOLARE-PER-BASSO-TIPO-ANIMATO-HUMAN-GEAR-DISTORTION-/221020462981?pt=Accessori_per_Chitarra_e_Basso&hash=item3375d89f85#ht_2021wt_1139"]http://www.ebay.de/itm/DISTORSORE-VALVOLARE-PER-BASSO-TIPO-ANIMATO-HUMAN-GEAR-DISTORTION-/221020462981?pt=Accessori_per_Chitarra_e_Basso&hash=item3375d89f85#ht_2021wt_1139[/url]

So, a 'best mic' thread turned into a 'mic vs DI - FIGHT!' thread... Any love for the Shure SM7B?

Some questions to help you get a better recommendation: - How much are you willing to spend? - Do you want a straight DI or a preamp/DI with some EQ? - Is your bass active or passive? - Does your Boss GT-10B have an XLR out that you can just use instead? Also, if you're searching for DI boxes for bass, that's why you only found two. Generic DI boxes are suitable for bass and there are tons of them! Basically if you're ever going to be plugging a passive bass straight in, you want an active DI. Otherwise get a passive one - Radial make good passive DIs, the JDI at the top end and the ProDI is almost as good and much more affordable.

I use a specially trained humming bird.

If you can find one, the Ibanez IDBB5 looks good: