dannybuoy

Wow, I didn't know DV were so accommodating! Remember you can also make a real upgrade in sound quality by swapping tubes in the Terror, improving the overdrive sound and getting rid of the mud. I've got some on order, but if your want to try this for the least possible outlay, try one of the Tung Sol reissue 12AX7s from Hot Rox for just over a tenner in the V1 position on the right hand side.

Gooped PCBs inside metal boxes inside metal boxes!

Can't find a schematic for these anywhere but there is a German chap selling clones: [url="http://www.ebay.de/itm/DISTORSORE-VALVOLARE-PER-BASSO-TIPO-ANIMATO-HUMAN-GEAR-DISTORTION-/221020462981?pt=Accessori_per_Chitarra_e_Basso&hash=item3375d89f85#ht_2021wt_1139"]http://www.ebay.de/itm/DISTORSORE-VALVOLARE-PER-BASSO-TIPO-ANIMATO-HUMAN-GEAR-DISTORTION-/221020462981?pt=Accessori_per_Chitarra_e_Basso&hash=item3375d89f85#ht_2021wt_1139[/url]

So, a 'best mic' thread turned into a 'mic vs DI - FIGHT!' thread... Any love for the Shure SM7B?

Some questions to help you get a better recommendation: - How much are you willing to spend? - Do you want a straight DI or a preamp/DI with some EQ? - Is your bass active or passive? - Does your Boss GT-10B have an XLR out that you can just use instead? Also, if you're searching for DI boxes for bass, that's why you only found two. Generic DI boxes are suitable for bass and there are tons of them! Basically if you're ever going to be plugging a passive bass straight in, you want an active DI. Otherwise get a passive one - Radial make good passive DIs, the JDI at the top end and the ProDI is almost as good and much more affordable.

I use a specially trained humming bird.

If you can find one, the Ibanez IDBB5 looks good:

I love it when he uploads a new effect using his iPhone. Reminds me of the Matrix where Neo learns Kung Fu! "I know OCTAVE!" "Show me." [media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7arjCw5e35I[/media]

Well the fan arrived this morning but not sure it's going to be suitable. It can only be mounted in one direction due to it's design, where it will blow air out of the amp, whereas the original is positioned to blow air into the amp. It might not make much difference as the air will still flow across the heatsink. Still, I think I'll return it and get the non-pro version (Arctic F8 TC) in a more traditional chassis that can be flipped over to be mounted in either direction. I also found that the lugs on the 3-pin plug are too large to fit into the tiny plastic 2-pin plug of the original so I'm gonna have to get a 2-pin to 3-pin adapter.

I just got one of these again, and have decided to pimp it with new tubes and a quieter fan. I'm not quite sold on the idea of putting 12AT7's in like some others have done. Sure it will reduce the gain range on the dial, but I can't see it being able to offer any more clean headroom than if you just had a 12AX7 and set the knob lower to achieve the same gain level. What would give you more clean headroom is a tube that doesn't distort so early, and many aftermarket 12AX7's should be able to pull this off as well as the 12AT7's. I've been looking around for replacement tubes over the last couple of days, I want to try and open up the highs a bit and get the overdrive to sound less mushy. The main ones I was considering were: [b]Watford Valves Harma[/b] - These are specially selected and rebranded JJs or Sovteks (they offer two types), with optional Cryogenic treatment that some say makes no difference to the sound (and some who say otherwise). Meant to sound good but much more expensive than the original branded versions! [b]JJ[/b] - often recommended in many places, but usually for high gain guitar amps, whereas I'm more after a cleaner vintage sound. [b]Tung-Sol reissue[/b] - regarded as some of the best current 12AX7s, slightly lower gain than most, later breakup and more hi-fi than the cheapo Chinese ones. These are pretty cheap too! [b]Gold Lion[/b] - these have some positive reviews from massive tube geeks at TheGearPage. Many who are into their NOS tubes and unhappy with current production models seem to be very impressed by these. Of course the price tag may be influencing their ears, being 2-3 times the price of most others! I went with these in the end - I know I could be wasting money on overpriced tubes but I want the best sound possible and know that if I went with a cheaper type I would probably end up getting these to compare eventually anyway! They are also meant to have very low microphonics, which I guess is important in a bass amp especially given the amount of low end rumble these amps put out! Also, I find the fan to be noisy so picked up an Arctic F8 Pro TC fan for £5 on eBay. It has a temperature control sensor on a wire that I can attach to the heatsink, then the fan controls it's own speed. I'm hoping it will hover around a silent 500 RPM most of the time if using it for quiet bedroom practice, and only start blaring when the amp really warms up (by which point it will be too loud to hear the fan anyway). Might have to do a bit of jiggery pokery as it comes with a 3-pin connector and the amp uses a 2-pin. I'll report back to let you know if my tinkering was successful!

To anybody that's not read this, Bass Gear Mag's analysis of the EQ in the Terror Bass is well worth a read: http://btpub.boyd-printing.com/publication/?i=76122 Main points: - Treble and bass are boost/cut, mid is cut only - 95% of the knob sweep occurs between off and noon, not much difference after noon (hence some claiming the eq doesn't do much) - Flat setting is with the mid cranked and bass&treble almost all the way down!

I didn't know they made an 810! Does it weight a ton? That port looks massive, if you have a cat I wouldn't be surprised if you found it asleep in there one day!

A constant high pitched background noise is probably down to the power supply, try using it on it's own supply with just that in the chain and see how you get on. Then again if the ZNR kills it perhaps it's coming from your bass or something earlier in the chain? The noise issue I experienced is a softer white noise hiss that only comes in when you play a note and you have the active switch pressed in. I could only hear this through my headphones or studio monitors though, not my bass rig as I don't use tweeters.

Just because it's different to your plate does not mean it's not original. Back in those days there was a right mix up of Jap/USA parts being used. Of course I'm no expert and you could well be right, but I wouldn't jump the gun unless you are confident!

That one does have the Fender logo though, which are supposedly rarer than yours with the Squier logo. See one (or a pair) for sale here for £1200 also: [url="http://basschat.co.uk/topic/174713-feeler-pair-of-1st-series-jv-basses-pj-rare/page__hl__jv%20jazz%20precision"]http://basschat.co.uk/topic/174713-feeler-pair-of-1st-series-jv-basses-pj-rare/page__hl__jv%20jazz%20precision[/url]