dannybuoy

It's all about the big Dunlop triangles. Tortex: Or Stubby:

I'm a fan of mine too. I was going to trade it for an Orange OBC115, but it was the Orange that sounded too dark, not the Trace. That's definitely not the standard driver in there, and it does look like the 3015 as it's ribbed.

Even though they are supposed to have the same pre-amps, I think the Terror has an active EQ which is supposedly flat at 12 o' clock, whereas the AD200B is supposed to be flat with treble at 9 o' clock, mids at noon, bass at 3 o' clock (I think). Also, some people say 10 to be the max setting rather than using clock positions which makes it hard to know what they're referring to when talking about settings!

[quote name='Protium' post='1068832' date='Dec 24 2010, 04:10 PM']I was under the impression that 10's don't have a sound, and that 8x10 cabinets were not a good design... Will this be the worlds first vertically aligned 6x10?[/quote] Doubt it, I wouldn't fancy my chances balancing a valve amp on top of a vertical 6x10!

Shouldn't have any problem mooving that.

I'd love to trade my BB415 up to the 1025X but I need to play one first to see if the difference is worth it! Anyone compared the two?

Me too. My BB415 is looking on in envy. Shame the new models don't have the black headstock of the older BB414/415.

You're a little late to the party. That fretless came over 2 years ago and the other one a couple of months ago!

[quote name='The Twickerman' post='1044798' date='Dec 2 2010, 10:48 AM']Circa [b]18974[/b], they're a peculiar blend of pop, jazz, prog and general English quirkiness.[/quote] Their music was way ahead of their time.

Pedaltrain Nano, NYC Lunchbox, or roll your own? All you need is a small wooden board and maybe an aluminium camera case from Maplin/interweb.

I think low F is pushing it for these, but worth a look anyhow: [url="http://www.drstrings.com/catalog/ddt-bass-strings"]http://www.drstrings.com/catalog/ddt-bass-strings[/url] There's also the Rotosound Drop Zone Plus set, but I don't know if they do a 5-string set: [url="http://www.rotosound.com/dz66_scroll.html"]http://www.rotosound.com/dz66_scroll.html[/url] I'm still trying to convince my guitarist he needs a low B, I'd love to try out this F# malarkey!

Gumtree

[quote name='Mr. Foxen' post='1036761' date='Nov 25 2010, 06:58 PM']Wow, that is some upper arm muscle definition. Must have one of these: [/quote] Haha, is that for real? I saw it on South Park but didn't know it was an actual parody!

Haven't had time I'm afraid! The new knob does not affect the sound in bypass mode.

It gives you a boost in gain, makes it 'snarl' more, and fades in interactive chaotic static noise as your note decays. Clips will explain better than words, I'll do some this weekend.

I had the Big Spider and returned it. It has a really brash top end and no tone control to filter it out, it also drops a lot of low end. I bet it would sound awesome into a cranked tube amp into a vintage style cab, but not through a clean solid state rig or with tweeters! The Way Huge Swollen Pickle is supposed to be awesome on bass too, after the internal controls have been adjusted for maximum awesomeness.

[quote name='umph' post='1035620' date='Nov 24 2010, 09:19 PM']why didn't you do a seperate volume for the clean?[/quote] I would have done if I could figure out how, but it's a fiddly double sided PCB that you can't remove very easily. Ghostbass -yes, it's just basic master volume control that affects the whole pedal. In dry mode, you adjust the regular volume knob until you're happy with the clean/dirty ratio, then back off the volume a bit with the new knob. I'll do some samples when I can after my gig tomorrow.

I get the same issue with any fix into the Carbon Copy. Digital delays work just fine though!

There's an issue with the BBM that drives me nuts, and it's the fact the when in dry mode you have 100% dry signal plus however much fuzz you dial in via the volume knob... end result is you have a massive volume boost when you turn it on. To work around this I have been using a separate blender pedal which takes up board space and costs more than the BBM itself! I figured out an easy way to fix this, which is to wire in an extra master volume control by intercepting the fuzz output signal before it hits the footswitch. I also added a Supercollider Beast style feedback/oscillation mod but on a momentary switch so I can make it stutter. This just took a couple of hours and a few quid in parts (momentary footswitch, 100K log mini-pot and a knob all from Maplins) and I'm very pleased with the result - plus the battery still fits in too! Hopefully the photos below should be enough to follow what's going on if anyone else wants to try it out. I had to cut and split the right-most wire in the ribbon cable and feed that to my pot. The pot also connects to the centre pin on the footswitch which was the most easily available ground point. The momentary footswitch just connects the right hand leg of transistors Q2 and Q3.

Sold a dodgy Fender to this gentleman recently, he turned up on time and paid for it with a wad of cash, just how it should be done!

I bought a H2 recently, didn't know about the H1. Quite a few discussion around: [url="http://www.google.co.uk/search?q=zoom+h1+vs+h2"]http://www.google.co.uk/search?q=zoom+h1+vs+h2[/url] I'd say go for the H1 if you're not bothered about the tuner, metronome, or using it as an audio interface to record on your PC. It looks nicer and is easier to use also!