dannybuoy

I've done a rehearsal with a loud guitarist and drummer with a crappy 60W Behringer combo before, and could hear myself fine. I'm sure with a decent cab it would be plenty audible enough for personal monitoring. We won't know for sure until someone does a field report!

Main uses would be as a stage monitor when your sound is mainly provided by the PA, or for recording. Shame they didn't use an XLR out for the DI rather than a balanced jack, and they missed a trick by having a headphone out but no aux in.

They are well reviewed around here. If all you want is a simple passive A/B switch, it’s hard to make a bad one, they’re mostly all the same, just a footswitch hooked up to some jacks in a metal box! Some of the more expensive options (e.g. GigRig, Lehle) will have soft touch foot switches and relays though which makes them nicer to step on and also reduces the chance of any popping noises when switching.

Usually a mixer wouldn't be ideal for passive basses due to having too low an input impedance, but some of those linked are labelled 'high impedance' so may well be up to the job!

Parallel definitely sounds better there, but I'm not a fan of dirt into filter unless you're going for synth sounds. My choice would have been filter into dirt in series!

That's precisely what it's for. Or for taking or pedals that suffer from tonesuck when bypassed out of your chain. It's just a mini version of the longer true bypass loops you often see on boards.

Cool! I like the tight switch but sometimes feel it's too extreme and I have to compensate by boosting bass and backing off the blend.

That looper does not do parallel, were you intended on using it in combination with another blender?

The 1025 pickups are very high output and a lot darker then a regular P pickup. The newer pups are supposed to be more vintage voiced and sounded quite a bit brighter when I auditioned a 435 vs a 2025X in store. If you want that old school precision and flats sound though, you're better off with a Fender.

The new generation (434, 734A, P34, etc) will sound closer to a Fender than the previous generation (424, 1024, 2024, etc) due to their more traditional alnico pickups.

I hope they add the 'tight' button from the pedal to the rack version. It's too bloated/fuzzy otherwise if you have a hot bassy bass like my 1025X. An adjustable HPF knob for the drive channel instead of the switch would be even better @Tech21NYC!

Chancers. It’s worth 50p. There are loads of people trying to sell theirs for 99p with no bids!

Most players are self taught, I wouldn't worry. I made the transition pretty easily from a 4 string Precision to a Yamaha BB415. The neck was a similar size which helped, I found most other 5 string basses too wide!

Depends what you're trying to achieve. E.g. a typical synth style chain with octave, fuzz, filter, modulation in series would not really work if you put all those effects in parallel. It's a bit like eating a cake vs eating a raw egg, a spoon of flour and a spoon of sugar, whilst sat in an oven. It is useful though for blending 3 different voices together though - say a traditional bass sound, an octave up fake guitar guitar sound, and a synth or organ, with the ability to switch each channel on or off. Or even just 3 different bass distortions to create a fuller sound. Only problem I can see there though is maintaining sensible output level - if you used that Tri Parallel Mixer with say a Sansamp and a B7K in their own loops - would you get double the volume if blending both together?

A 105 E string with a 115 B string? 🧐 Should be more like 125/130 surely.

You’d need to use a different foot switch that introduced a secondary master volume control when AGS was on. Probably possible, but like the Vintage Ultra, you’d really want separate EQ settings between clean and dirty, making the whole two channel option less appealing. Both very different pedals... the Darkglass adds a layer of distorted mids onto your clean tone, keeping the low end clean and uncompressed. The EQ is brilliant, 3 selectable bands for both high and low mids. The Tone Hammer on the other hand is more of a full range drive, so your low end can get a bit blurry. Also the mid control is pre-drive, so you can keep it flat or boosted for a Motown vibe or scoop it right back for a Sansamp style drive, two sounds that the Darkglass can struggle to replicate.

If you’re going to try out the one in Wunjos, also check out the Duff McKagan basses and the Yamaha BB734A if they have them! Same boxes ticked!

Even so, do you find that you ever look at the front of the board whilst playing? It would involve arching your neck forward and tilting the bass back, which I'd find pretty difficult. On the bass I have without board inlays, I can't tell the difference when I'm playing it as I can only see the side dots anyway!

I’m sure it has side markers. I prefer the sleeker look of no dots also, you can’t see them when you’re playing anyway! They are useful in a jam though so it’s easier for others to work out what you’re playing.

I like the look of them. Tried one out in Wunjos alongside several other PJ basses though and it was the worst of the bunch. That’s just one opinion of one bass though, so take it with a pinch of salt! Definitely worth paying them a visit though, and try out some of the PJ Jaguar basses to compare, now those I liked!

I've returned a couple of items that were subject to a 'restocking fee'. I brought up that it was against the distance selling regulations to charge such a fee, and they waived it.

Nice clips @Quatschmacher! I'm more interested in the straight envelope filter sounds and I like the MF-101 preset, I'd love to hear the Meatball and Mutron models if you're up for doing more.

Went to Denmark Street to check out some acoustic guitars. Found myself drawn to a fretless acoustic bass, fell in love, walked out with a solid body fretless Yamaha electric bass instead!

I've got MIDI built into my Godin A4 fretless, but I've never tried it!

Yes, it'll likely be analog. The reason I'm sceptical about it removing noise from the actual note is that I know how difficult that would be to achieve from an engineering perspective, and the maker only refers to it being a noise gate. All noise gates work on the same principal of only letting the signal through when it's over a certain level. The better ones are finely tuned in their response time so that your ears don't detect the noise as the note decays. Usually that's the only time you'll hear the noise, so if the Zuul clamps down really quickly and efficiently, it'll seem as if the noise has disappeared entirely. Noise reduction to remove the noise completely though, is a whole other ball game. It usually relies on digital trickery, much like noise cancelling headphones. It's much more advanced and would be a pedal first as far as I know!