dannybuoy

Eh? My B3n has a Glam Comp effect, that’s where it showed up first, before the B1Four existed. Maybe you need to update your firmware?

Not missing the extra knobs and stomps from the B3n then?

Put them in a playlist and listen to them all day every day. At work, on the toilet, at mealtimes and during sex. If they haven't given you the chords etc for the original tracks, see if they can do so, it will be a big timesaver. 26 songs in 9 days is a challenge, especially if you have to work. I'm a slow learner so if it were me and I wanted to make a good impression, I'd probably book the week off. Rehearse with headphones with your bass mixed in, not only to let you hear every nuance more easily but to also work out which bass sounds work with the band mix as you go. Don't get too stuck trying to perfect all the fills etc at first, or you may find yourself at day 8 only having got half way through the list. Learn each song to a very basic level first so you can blag it, then fine tune each one!

As above the Thumpinator is designed to cut out the frequencies below 30Hz that your cab cannot reproduce. If you're getting too much boom in the 40-60Hz region, but don't want to just 'turn down the bass' as that will also impact the higher bass frequencies, a less steep but adjustable HPF like the Broughton or the one in the Zoom is just the ticket! Your can also try raising your cab off the floor or just repositioning it. The closer it is to a wall or corner, the more bass you'll get.

One reason I can think of is consistency in mute pressure - if your strings are set to different heights then placing foam under them won’t be even. The reason given in one of the videos is less convincing. Putting foam under the strings can throw off intonation slightly, apparently this device alleviates that. Of course one advantage over the BassMute is you can use it on all your basses (well the ones with the same string spacing anyway!). Price is a total ripoff though!

If you bought new, return it rather then selling it on.

According to the FX list, the Pitch Shift effect looks identical. The 'analog' octaver has a -1 and -2 oct control on the guitar version (just like an OC-2), but just a -1 oct and hi/lo EQ on the bass version. It's likely that the octave tracking and tone is otherwise the same - otherwise I would've hoped if they nailed an OC-2 tone they would've put it on the bass version too! The guitar version is missing an additional monophonic pitch effect that is on the bass version.

Not all passive tonestacks are the same and I know nothing about the CTM100, but the one in my old Orange Terror Bass is flat with the mids maxed and bass/treble at minimum. Sounds totally unintuitive and therefore a setting you might not have tried, so give that a shot to see how it sounds and adjust from there!

The octave down effect which simulates an analog octaver is Very Good Indeed. The octave up is not so great though. Neither is the one on the Helix (for now, they claim to have hired some polyphonic pitch shifting wizards a while back)!

Could it be that you’re not used to / not a fan of P basses? Muddy and no slap punch is how someone very used to J basses (or active dual pickup basses in general) might feel about a P at first listen.

There's a Spectracomp going for £50 in the classifieds, I'd start there. Or do what I did, try several way more expensive compressors before ultimately ending there! Other pedals - an MXR Bass Envelope Filter is fun for Uptown Funk. It has a bit of a vocal quality to it to make your bass line sound a bit like the backing vocals. Your may want to consider a multi-FX like the Zoom B3n if you find yourself using a lot of sounds and need presets, but a handful of well chosen by pedals has always been my preference.

Your average pub audience member wouldn't even notice if you unplugged the bass.

Active or passive bass, and where in the FX chain do you want to put it? That will affect the answer. For instance, Ernie Ball make two passive volume pedals; one with a 25K pot suited for use with an active bass, or for placing after another pedal that's either always on or has a buffered bypass, and a different model with a 250K pot more suited to plugging into with a passive instrument. But if you are plugging straight in with a passive bass, a passive volume pedal will still slightly affect your tone, so you might want to look for active volume pedal instead.

Because it is a crap design and looks ugly, it would put me off buying a P35. The reason the B is pushed back is because the saddle needs to go further back in order to intonate correctly, and it just needed more room. A better solution would have been to redesign and/or move the bridge, which is they did with the 1025.

That sounds an awful lot like a Stingray. You might equate them with having too much sizzle, but they don't have to be that way. Or in my case, a Sandberg Basic, which has a similar pickup configuration. It has a set of TI flats on and is often run in passive mode. Warmth, tight lows, pokey low mids, subdued highs but still very present.

I'd recommend the B1Four also. The PJB is great, but only does clean and dry bass tone.

Most of the apps have a latency slider, usually set pretty high be default. Even if your chosen app doesn't, or didn't allow you to set it low enough, you can run it inside Audiobus and control the latency there. I've got mine down to way below perceptible levels, 64 samples / 1.5ms is possible on my old iPad Air 2.

I tried bi-amping with a split signal and octave up and got a ton of noise from the 2nd amp until I got an amp switcher with an isolated output - worth bearing in mind if you ever hit the same problem! Some good info on the subject here: https://www.radialeng.com/understanding-aby-switchers

Yeah, I thought that's where you might be getting confused, they are different things. A pad is just like a volume control, but on a switch that flicks between 100% and 50% volume, so that you can prevent high output basses from clipping your inputs. Think of impedance as resistance, and imagine you're plugging your bass into a big resistor. Passive pickups are sensitive to what kind of load they are hooked up to, which is why your bass will sound brighter with 500K pots than 250K ones. In a similar way, the input impedance of an amp or DI will affect the tone of the bass, as that input stage effectively joins up to form one circuit with your tone and volume pots. Stick a powered transistor amplifier (AKA a buffer, which could be an active preamp) in between the bass and mixer/DI/pedal/amp/etc though, and it will isolate the pickups from the rest of the chain. Your pickups 'see' the input stage of the buffer only, and the tone is then not unaffected by the input impedance of what comes next in the chain.

Are you using the cable that came with it (assuming it did)? If you’re using some random one you had lying around, some cheapo micro USB cables that come with phone chargers only have the power pins hooked up, so can’t transmit data.

Call Bass Direct and ask. I heard there was no upcharge if you wanted Black Labels or Delanos instead of Sandberg pickups.

Mixers usually just have low impedance line inputs and mic preamps. Sometimes (this is more common on audio interfaces) you might see a guitar input labelled 'Hi-Z' (high impedance). This is why it is recommended to pair a passive bass with an active DI (like a Radial J48), as they have higher input impedances than passive ones (like a Radial JDI). I haven't checked impedance specs of many amp inputs though, but would expect them to follow suit. Perhaps labelling can be confusing if an input is simply labelled 'Hi'; it isn't clear if that refers to high impedance, high signal level, or high gain, all very different things!

Nope. An active bass, like a preamp or pedal, is not too fussy but prefers to be plugged into a low impedance line input. A passive bass will lose a lot of top end unless it is plugged into a high impedance input.

You only need a high impedance input (which are rare to see on mixers) if you're plugging a passive bass straight in. Your would be good to plug the Zoom straight into a bog standard line input.

Out of most of our price ranges for sure! But they were around £1500 new when first released, it's only in recent years prices seem to have skyrocketed to pie in the sky RRP levels. Their stock is pretty old by now so if they acquired them at the older prices and they are desperate to move them on, there are certainly deals to be had!