dannybuoy

First tune on bass I learnt was this on a Yamaha RBX270F fretless: Essentially just a power chord arpeggio pattern up and down the neck, but it’s a good groove exercise!

Tried lots of amps, never had one that I couldn't get a nice quiet playing volume from. However, I moved some of those amps on because the fan kicked in too loud when the amp was nowhere near warm. Aguilar TH500 being one, also the Orange Terror Bass probably had the most obnoxious always on fan, but I swapped the fan out for a quieter one!

It's a single coil J, so it will hum active or passive.

A DiMarzio Model J would be a good complement to the BB I reckon. You want something powerful so it can match the output of the P!

Same here, made the switch from Dunlop and DR after buying my BB!

There sure is! https://www.yamahamusiclondon.com

FDeck HPF Pre here: https://sites.google.com/site/hpftechllc/home/technical-diy-stuff

I used them to send 3 pedals to Belgium, Netherlands and Spain last year. They were supposed to take 5 days but they took roughly 2, 4 and 6 weeks!

For me, the BB doesn't quite nail it. It gets close, but not close enough to make me want to sell my BB. The Darkglass sims though sound very close to the real thing, I have no real need for my B3K anymore other then the fact it's more compact and analog.

Nothing wrong with that approach whatsoever. Unless you are doing it for every song, in which case you should try out some new ideas!

Darkglass B7K / X7! 😁

My D'Addario nickels stay bright for quite a long time, compared to say a set of Fender nickels that sounded dead out of the pack. I take it you're using Rotosound nickels? Coated strings are probably the way forward, e.g. Elixir.

I've had a few of the top tier compressors but I didn't like any of them as much as the Spectracomp. Multiband really is a godsend on bass if you play with a pick, slap, or just have an agressive playing style, as it can reign in the top end without adversely affecting the lows. I find with a single band comp, if I whack a string against the frets, it clamps down on the entire signal and takes away the thump.

I like the look of them, the owner of my local music shop plays a Triton and they stock them here: https://musicstreet.co.uk/collections/duesenberg-bass Although it'd have to be a bloody amazing bass to make me want to part with £2K for it when I could get a Sandberg or Musicman for less.

Neither! He was linking to these, which I hear are the cat's pyjamas when it comes to solderless kits: https://shop.thegigrig.com/evidence-audio-patch-cable-kits/

The stock Spectracomp preset does indeed boost the volume slightly, but you can adjust the level via the app, or find another preset that's closer to unity gain. Me, I just leave it stock and don't worry about the boost as it's always on. Hyper Gravity if you don't mind tweaking tons of parameters to find your setting, and want the hands on control of multiple knobs. Spectracomp if you want an easy life and tons of dedicated bass presets, and don't mind having just the one knob!

Yeah, it depends on how the model in the MS-60B works, I'm not familiar with it having long ago sold my previous gen Zooms (and I think I recall Owen saying he couldn't get the same effect out of the B3n?). You could definitely set up a pseudo double tracking effect using subtle pitch-shifting and delay, there's probably even a dedicated effect for that purpose that has some simulated drift in the values applied, like the TC Mimiq. But if the required effect is that of simulating the tone of an analog octaver, which sounds like a synth, but without the octave down, that is a bit niche (the FEA Growler is the only thing I know of that does it, but it's rare and discontinued). You might be able to take the output of the EBS Octabass sim and put that through a natural sounding octave up if you can deal with the latency!

I've got a bunch of the above also. I'd go for a solderless wiring kit though if you want everything super tight and neat. A lot of people like the flat EBS cables, they are very slim and flexible, but I found them to introduce a lot of noise in certain environments, I suspect the shielding is not up to scratch, whether that's due to the plastic jacks or the cable construction itself, I'm not sure.

I'm not sure it does offer what you're after there - an octaver set to the same pitch as the incoming signal to act as a tonal thickener, a bit like the FEA Growler pedal? If you have an audio interface, get the trial of Helix Native and find out for yourself!

The need for insurance is ridiculous really. You don't pay for insurance when you order a meal at a restaurant, if they burn your food or screw up the order, they damn well rectify the problem as they have a reputation to uphold. Although on the other hand you do need limits in place to stop people abusing the system with claims such as 'that parcel of mine you lost contained £1 million in cash, so pay up'!

The pedal will run fine at 9v. Many, but not all, supplies will happily power it from a 100mA output, they can often put out a bit more than labelled, and pedals often use a bit less than the manual states. Both sides involve a certain margin of error. I recommend the Visual Sound One Spot CS-6 / CS-7. They are designed differently to most supplies out there, using switching tech instead of transformers. The manufacturer even states you can ignore the individual mA labels as long as you don't exceed the amount rated for the entire brick. The Strymon range might be like this too, I can't confirm though.

Indeed, I gigged the hell out of a 415. 100% road worthy!

It's totally digital as far as I'm aware.

PMT in Cardiff might have some Sandbergs and Yamahas in stock also if that's any closer.