dannybuoy

Blueberry set to low gain would have worked well for me... Only way to see if an octaver works for you would be to try one!

Since I know there are a lot of synth fans amongst our ranks... https://www.ehx.com/blog/electro-harmonix-introduces-the-bass-mono-synth

Which ODs have you tried? If you go for a light overdrive with plenty of mids, it won't necessarily sound heavy, more of an eq/boost with some added harmonic content to help you be heard. You can try an OC-2, but you have to be aware that analog octavers work best when you are playing in the upper registers and letting the pedal fill in the bass range, so you might have to play differently to accomodate. On the other hand a digital octaver can produce an octave up from your regular played down low basslines, but the effect can sound fake/distracting sometimes. I've messed about with both types and preferred to use a light OD over both. TC Mojomojo, Xotix BB Preamp, or Solidgoldfx Beta worked out best for me in this role, I find a pedal with no blend, plenty of natural lows and low mids is the order of the day here.

Yeah, I had one and sold it pretty quickly. Did not like!

Behringer BDI21 is a good place to start!

+1, it's what I use for warm/vintage drive and not just because it's the cheapest pedal on my board but because it beat everything else!

Form factor is more like the VT Bass and character pedals than the VTDI / BDDI, etc. Shame it was missed though but not the end of the world. Guess it keeps costs down!

I tried a lower gain tube in the V1 slot and it did indeed give me more usable range on the gain knob... But then again both tubes sounded similar to me except with the original the gain knob was at 9 o'clock and with the new one it was at 12 o'clock. I didn't notice any improvement in sound, in fact I thought the 12AX7 sounded better so swapped back. Although I am running Gold Lions in mine as I fancied an upgrade from the stock jobs!

Probably because Prymaxe either dropped the ball or were very naughty in listing it before the big unveiling! I'm interested in this...

I'd say you probably don't need a compressor if you're running a RAT or Muff always on. But it won't do any harm to experiment! Try it both before and after your dirt boxes, there is no 'correct' placement really but I tend to prefer mine after filters and before dirt. I recommend the TC Spectracomp. I got one used for £50 and liked it much more than the top compressors in the market, e.g. Diamond, Cali Compact Bass. It just has one knob which I leave set at 9 o'clock on the default preset, and it hits the spot.

Doh, I didn't spot this was the parody of another thread, just assumed it was a typo, I meant to reply to this one!

Phil Jones Bighead for me. Portable, internal rechargeable battery, built in USB audio interface, and much more clear loud volume on tap than the Zoom multis or Focusrite audio interfaces. I have a Zoom B3n and Focusrite 2i2, but if using either of those with bass I still go via the Bighead, because I struggled to get enough volume otherwise. The Zoom in particular introduced some unwanted distortion when maxing the master volume. I note most others don't have these issues, I put it down to my chosen headphones being a bit harder to drive than most so I need a bit more juice!

I'll add the Aguilar Tonehammer to the recommendations already given for the DHA, Blueberry, VT Bass and Sonic Silver Peg!

Not sure what is going on there, but these ACA pedals have an oddity about the way they're wired, which is this. You can run them at 9v if the power is daisy chained to another pedal. Don't ask me how, but it's common knowledge and I've seen it in action - plug in a single 9V supply and the LED is dim, hook up a 2nd pedal on the same supply and the LED gets brighter! So if your supply has a splitter/daisy cable, try seeing what happens there. It should work just fine with an isolated 12V output though so perhaps something is up with your pedal. Is the LED just as bright as when powered by a battery?

I have a barely used 2i2 interface I've been meaning to list if you decide to go for one of those btw!

I used a Behringer MA400 in the past with great results, only thing is it has a mono XLR input (along with a stereo aux), so it's fine if you were intending to use it alongside a DI/preamp.

FYI on an iPad in landscape mode the report button is just very very light grey text on a white background, almost invisible. It’s fine in portrait mode though which switches to a different style!

I really liked that Grimes track too, never listened to her before assuming it would just be like most modern pop tosh. I'd only ever heard about her due to her dating Elon Musk.

I would advise against that unless you plan on buying two multis and put one in each loop. The digital processing introduces a slight processing delay, if you blend that with the immediate analog signal you will get comb filtering effects.

If the Helix is too much coin, the POD X3 and HD series also allow processing of parallel chains.

Yamaha have never updated their range with a new bunch of colours to my memory. I assume you could get a P34 or P35 in a custom colour though, as I've seen one BB2024X in satin black with painted neck and another with a maple board. Don't expect them to be cheap though!

Fine by me, they're on their way to you already!

In a nutshell, using PA gear instead of traditional bass amps. More power and higher fidelity for less money and less weight (well, sometimes), then use an amp modeller or preamp in front if you need it to sound like an Ampeg SVT for example. Your amp modeller will sound like it's supposed to and you'll get the same sound on stage as through the PA.