dannybuoy

Darkglass FAQ says all post 2015 pedals except the compressor and the latest Ultras with digital gubbins can run at 18V. My B3K is older than that, so I got lucky when I tried 18V by accident. Others have been not so lucky, so try at your own risk! The M900 preamp runs at 15V. I believe this is why so many people say they prefer it to the tone they got from the pedals. Ran my B3K at 18V and boom, got them to sound identical. Less fizz, more dynamic range and touch sensitivity to the overdrive. I mentioned to Doug on the TB thread about adding a 9V/18V switch to the plugin and he said they'd look into it!

Does that not depend on what battery type it is (lead-acid, NiCad, NiMh, etc)? I thought the opposite was true for the type of battery that comes with modern mobile phones (and portable battery packs for bass amps!) that it was recommended to fully discharge / charge every now and then rather than regularly topping up a partially discharged battery?

Radial Bigshot I/O GigRigThree2One Palmer AB-I The Gigrig is the only one with two level controls (well three actually), but in reality you probably only need to attenuate the louder bass down to the level of the other one or vice versa so one level control may suffice! Is the smallest and supports 3 instruments, but is also the most expensive. The Palmer only has multi stage pad switches rather than a volume knob so isn't as adjustable, but it is the cheapest.

The original dark green one, whatever that is! Not tried the new bright one.

Analog delay pedal (or a decent digital emulation of one). I have a Carbon Copy on my board purely for making earthquake/ghost/spaceship noises - you can play it like it's own instrument, tweaking it with your toes whilst playing the bass!

I believe you need to make sure it has conductive adhesive if using it for shielding a bass though. If the glue is insulating neighbouring strips of foil from eachother then the shielding won't be as effective.

According to some TB posts, their Line6 wireless receiver only used 350mA rather then 500mA and their MXR ISO Brick was capable of dishing out 450mA from its 300mA socket. Sounds like a useful device for those trying to squeeze the most out of a small supply like the Cioks DC5 like me!

Looks like a handy device for seeing how much power your board actually needs rather then relying on the often wildly inaccurate ratings in the manuals... https://www.soundsgreatmusic.com/products/truetone-1spot-ma-meter

Cool! I wonder if they modelled what it sounds like at 9V only... My B3K and Alpha Omega sound much better running on 18V. The Helix model of the B7KU is pretty close to the real deal also. 14 day trial too! I'll be giving this a bash this weekend then.

I've got a Wilkinson in one of my basses, sounds great to me and is cheap as they come.

Nothing wrong with that! A Les Paul might label their pickup switch as rhythm and lead, but they are only suggestions. I've only played in bands with one guitarist and don't ever recall them switching pickups for a solo. It would take too long to warm the soldering iron up for a start (badum tish!).

There's been an Oxide in the FS section for a while now if anyone's interested in one.

That looks like a winner!

There is a bit of a gap in the market here I think for a cheap simple battery powered headphone amp with aux in. Everything I can think of is either expensive, complicated, no battery, or no aux in!

Me too, analog preamp into a PJB Bighead for me (although I’ve now added a digital compressor!). The Bighead ticks all your boxes apart from cheap!

Oh yeah, you can minimise the latency on iPad too - either in the settings for JamUp itself, or otherwise get the Audiobus app, set the latency in there (which can go lower than the settings allow in most other apps) then load JamUp inside of that.

Zoom B1on? It has a digital model of the Sansamp in it as well as a tuner and drum machine. There is the likes of the Vox Amplug but that has its own amp like colouration - which might not sound good with the Sansamp but then again could mean you won’t need it!

It even comes with a made to fit gig bag. Which does to mean they actually thought people might want to buy and gig these?

If you only need to mix those two sources, a Behringer MA400 does a good job. XLR input for the Sansamp and mini jack for the iPod. For not much more though, you could get one of their mini mixers if you ever think you might need to add more things into the mix!

I’ve always wanted one in this colour too, I had to settle for Sunset Orange though! Which looks more like transparent red unless in direct sunlight.

My Polytune does introduce a bit of weird digital clock chirping type noise but only when it's on and tuning. Btw most 9V supplies work on 110-240V, so if you have a US one you might be able to use it with a plug converter.

If you have an extra 9v supply or two knocking about, the kind you sometimes get bundled with pedals, you can do an experiment. Set up a simple chain of two pedals on a daisy chain, find a pairing where the noise is introduced - you shouldn't need to rig up the entire chain to see the issue, just to simplify things for now. Then power one of those with the separate supply and see if the issue goes away - if it does then you've got yourself a noisy pedal that needs isolation. Maybe it has digital innards or an internal voltage doubler - e.g. I found that the RMI Basswitch compressor doubles to 18V internally but produces a high pitched whine into the signal when sharing power. Which leads me to another thing - there is more than one type of noise. If it's a buzz that gets worse or goes away when touching the exposed metal parts of the pedal, that suggests a grounding issue. If it's a hiss or whine, or chirping sound then that's more common of noise from the power supply.

How are you supposed to test if you are sending low frequencies your cab can't reproduce with a smartphone app if A) the cab can't reproduce the signals and B) the phone mic can't pick them up? If a tiny speaker in a phone can't produce 20Hz, does that mean a tiny mic would also fail to record 20Hz? Better to test going from the DI output, or a speaker level DI on the speaker output, straight into a recording interface I would've thought.

Only the Zoom pedal out of that lot should need isolation, the others should be perfectly fine sharing power. I had a similar issue and found that my noise did not go away after investing in an isolated power supply. Instead I found the noise was due to either a specific pedal with a grounding issue, or from certain patch cables, and only kicking in when my dimmer switch or certain household appliances were on!

I've not seen any measurements of it but I wouldn't be surprised to see that the Tonehammer is similar. With the AGS switch on (or the Drive control turned up on the amp versions) that engages a LPF and HPF, then you can dial in some serious bass boost yet it sounds tight rather than fill the room with murky sub bass.