dannybuoy

I actually like my octaver going into the Spectracomp. The octaver tends to flatten all the dynamics out of the signal, but a compressor with a long enough attack time (default preset does the trick) makes it punchier by letting the peak through before clamping down on it! My chain is currently octaver, Thumpinator, filter, comp, then everything else.

I'm have a Spectracomp into a VTDI on the board right now, great combo. Not sure if the drive on the Spectradrive will be able to sound like that but will be interesting to find out! I think I'll just have to wait for TC to release a filter pedal then a multi FX. Seems like they have everything lined up for the perfect multi except for the filters!

I didn't mean to hit the post button, I meant to add my listing for an Omnicabsim first! https://www.basschat.co.uk/topic/322655-dsm-omnicabsim/

I'd 'need' 3 minimum. A P with flats (of course!), a more aggressive 5 stringer (my BB1025X) and a fretless (currently a Godin A4). The first two are pretty much set in stone and with me for life, the Godin could possibly be swapped for a fretless Stingray. Everything else I have though is surplus to requirements!

I've not tried it with an alternative power supply or by itself in the chain so could experiment there. However it's not an issue as a compressor is an always on pedal for me and I don't need to switch compressors for slapping or tapping (both are for show-offs!).

Two things would stop me being interested - country, and western.

Well since I started this thread, I will answer it. Spectracomp! I do still highly rate the Cali CB, but the TC is smaller, cheaper, easier to operate, and sounds more 'exciting'. Notes seem to jump out more and the multi-band nature of it ensures more evenness across the fretboard or when playing aggressively. It sounds a lot better than the RMI Basswitch multi-band to me as well. I understand what all the compressor controls do, yet don't find the single knob an issue. I just set the knob between 8 and 10 o'clock depending on which bass I'm using and I end up with a great sound. I will have to dig into the settings to come up with my own preset though since the stock one has a bit of a gain boost. TC downsides - you can't turn it on and off mid song as it makes a funny sound when you engage it. Not just your typical true bypass pop, but it's like either the digital circuitry is booting up or a capacitor is charging or something as there is a slight chirp sound and fade in when it comes on. Also, some presets sound digital - I can't remember which one I was using, but I noticed the tone sounded a bit like it had gone through lossy MP3 compression or through a mild bit crusher. Something you might not notice through a bass rig or if adding overdrive, but a PJB Bighead and Beyer cans reveal all! I switched back to the stock preset and the effect was gone. I will listen it for it again next time I whip through the tone prints!

Haven't you heard about the herd? Everybody knows that the herd is the word. My herd is out of control, there is a cull coming!

I've didn't think it was possible to get a Gemini chorus, Lunar phaser, and Mercury flanger preset all available simultaneously - but if it is, that's great!

It's still in stock on their website. I only know cos I was checking to see if they still had the black 2025X...

I'd call it a design flaw though if the zero fret is smooth when you buy it new and the grooves develop over time. I now have GAS for a stainless steel zero fret thanks to this thread!

BB1025X BB1025X BB1025X BB1025X BB1025X

No more then you would expect to have to replace a nut. You can always shape the zero fret to get it right, just like cutting nut slots, then expect to replace it if you go too far (or it gets worn out!). Wouldn't changing the nut (or zero fret) height be a set-it-and-forget-it operation? Even if changing string guage, the height at the first fret should be dependent on the height difference between the zero and first frets, would string thickness matter?

I thought one of the points of having a zero fret is that the string height is already optimal, being the same sized fret material and radius as the rest of the frets. Filing grooves might end up with zero fret being lower than the first fret. If you're going to file grooves into a zero fret on purpose, why not just do away with the whole concept and go for a metal nut instead? I'm no expert and certainly no luthier, that's just what makes sense to me anyway!

The Lunar can be reprogrammed into being any of the Source Audio modulation pedals I believe, so chorus, flanger, phaser or tremolo. Although it can only be one of these at a time, so no having phaser on one preset and chorus on another!

Does it do an actual chorus sound, or is it more a case of a phaser is close enough to do the job? I much prefer phaser to chorus on bass anyway,

Depends. Heavier strings will have more output and let you dig in harder due to their higher tension. But some players like Geddy Lee use really light strings to get that aggressive clanky/buzzy tone with minimal effort which can often work better when using overdrive.

That makes sense, it’s having 15, 25 and 40 options that doesn’t!

They’re not out yet. A bunch of us are in the queue for the pre order though but it’s looking like at least a month away, probably more like three knowing how these things go!

Simple - they’ve advertised it as a Fender neck when it isn’t. That’s the only issue here.