dannybuoy

Only £389!

Wasn’t expecting that feature set though, thought it would just take the blueprint of the B7KU. At least we now know why he had hired a DSP engineer!

The best way to get a great clean sound is to distort it.

Looks like an IR cab sim, headphone amp and graphic EQ have been added!

Maybe it would, but I see the Accountant as more of an overdrive pedal with a bit of compression thrown in for good measure! If you want a boost for solos etc then in some cases a bit of extra compression is very welcome to help you stand out.

Anyone saying they aren't useful can't have tried one in combination with distortion. Just as a guitar through a fuzz pedal going direct into a PA or headphones sounds awful, so does a bass - yet it sounds great going into an Ampeg 810. If you want to recreate that sound for live FOH or with your FRFR monitor or IEMs on stage, a cab sim is just the ticket!

Well there's dirt and then there's dirt. Some are darker, distort the lows more and work perfectly well with flats, some are more adept at blending in distorted mids and upper harmonics, when you really need rounds. e.g. a SolidGoldFX Beta would sound pretty much the same with flats or rounds, but a Darkglass B3K would sound pants with flats.

A clean boost would give you an accompanying volume boost which might be a bit unmanageable playing live, so I'd go for a drive pedal personally, one that's fairly transparent that could be dialled back to a clean boost. A TC Spark Booster would fit the bill, I've been meaning to try one as it's getting a rep as a fine bass overdrive in its own right, but the toggle switch lets you just use it as a boost pedal also. The Earthquaker Westwood is a new 'transparent overdrive' pedal out that also looks good, but really there are tons of low-gain bass-friendly overdrives out there, prepare to be overwhelmed with recommendations (both good and bad)! Another recommendation that's slightly unusual is to use a dirty compressor like the Fairfield Accountant.

Fender's site pees me off. Whenever I get an email from them the links are broken because it just redirects to the UK home page!

Sure but if you really want to dull the upper harmonics, the tone control would be more effective and quicker to try than a string swap!

Unlikely.

If I play an open E, it glitches to the octave above after about 1.5 seconds. If I play the same note on the low B it can hold the lower octave for several seconds. Open strings have more upper harmonics since your finger isn't in contact with the string, it's those that confuse the tracking as it can't tell if you're playing an open E or an E at the twelfth fret, so it bounces up and down trying to lock onto the note.

1. The cheapest you can find, they're all pretty much the same! However I have one daisy chain that has shorter than standard connectors which have trouble fitting in some pedals... 2. You might be able to squeeze those on a Pedaltrain Nano+, otherwise look at the larger Metro ones. Their site has a pedalboard planner app so you can check for yourself! 3. The Pedaltrain boards come with velcro but the stuff the supply currently is not sticky enough and keeps coming off my pedals (never had this issue with the board I bought from them years ago though). Most branded stuff should be better in quality, but many people swear by 3M Dual Lock, similar to velcro but is more of a mushroom shape than a hook and is much stronger!

This. I don't possess any magic, various analog octavers I've had have all glitched on sustained notes on open strings, yet been pretty stable on most fretted notes apart from the odd one here or there. Setup might be something to do with it, my action isn't that low and I have no string buzz to throw it off.

Sounds like it's a good time to try a new bass if you've had that one for so long... but I would try and visit a few shops and play as many basses as possible first as it sounds like you have GAS for the SR just because it was refreshingly different to your old bass. You might find you really gel with a Jazz/Precision/Stingray/Thunderbird/whatever even more than the SR!

Mine died a couple of years ago... It was several years old, out of warranty, and I bought it used, but I took it into PMT (as they are an Orange dealer) who sent it to Orange for repair and all I had to pay was £25 to cover the courier costs. Worth a try!

Looks like a load of bollocks to me.

Use a splitter cable or 3-way daisy cable on the 18V output, 100mA should cover both pedals, I've powered the same comp plus a Pike Vulcan from the DC5 before. Hotrox stock the full range of Cioks accessory cables! But either of those pedals would be perfectly happy at 12V also. If you hear clipping in the Cali or the clean channel of the PL when digging in hard, then you'll want 18V. If testing out the PL in a shop, note that there are internal controls too, one of which affects the low end! If you want dark bass-heavy soft-clipping OD, you might also like the SolidgoldFX Beta. That won a little shootout on my board when I was looking for a dirty boost to go in front of an Tech21 VT 500 or Darkglass M900 head (so similar ballpark to a BDDI). One of the few that really maintain your low end presence in the mix when you stomp on it at high volume!

I sold mine for exactly the same reason - after tweaking the internal trim to let the most low end through, the clean side sounded very buzzy. Never thought to try it at 18V, at the time it wasn't common knowledge that it could accept it!

I think the Pork Loin circuit in this pedal will be a lot brighter than the Pork Loins of old - there was a popular bright mod doing the rounds on Talkbass and Way Huge took heed and revised their circuit, now this one features a presence control for the OD which I assume will be able to replicate the original darker sound plus a much brighter one. Never tried a Swollen Pickle, but in general mild overdrives into Big Muff fuzzes work very well indeed so stacking would have been nice. But that would have made the circuit more complex/expensive, and to be fair it's still better value than one of their standalone overdrive or fuzz pedals!

The OmniCabSim pedal is great, it has an XLR output with lots of volume on tap and the Deluxe version even has a (mono) headphone amp with aux in. The pluses of this particular unit are that it's 100% analog (low power usage, less noise issues on a daisy chain, zero processing delay which is useful if you're also sending a dry signal to the FOH also) and that you have hands on control to fine tune the response to get the sound just right. Downsides are you have to order one direct from Chile!

Just listened to it through my phone at the lowest volume setting held up to my ear (!) and thought it was obvious that the MM was #2. The first one sounds thinner due to the pickup being closer to the bridge, the second one is fatter and growlier.

I have 500W and 900W amps that I quite comfortably play in my bedroom. The actual difference between the 300W and 500W would probably not be that great. I think the real is, if you can't adjust the volume of the amp effectively, it's not a very good amp!