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la bam

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Posts posted by la bam

  1. ok, so notible differences:

    1. its not got the Fender logo (because its not a Fender - theres no way i could experiment with £1500 worth of bass). I would have considered putting a decal on, but the finish on the V4 was that good and gloss varnish finished it would be a disaster to strip it all back.

    2. the hardware isnt Fender and the bridge isnt a schaller 3d. Because im no expert i decided to get the V4 as it had good quality hardware as standard in chrome and had the exact same harware available in gold, so in theory it should be a straight swap over without having to re drill or glue any holes.

    3. the scratchplate is 3 ply but it was impossible not to spray over the middle ply of white which would have given it that scratchplate outline.

    4. just need the gold pot knobs and jack nut.

    5. ive decided for the moment to leave the strap locks in chrome as i dont want to swap yet as in case they dont hold properly and i get a mid gig shock!

    6. theres a slight rise at the bridge, and a small hum at high levels, but im going to get that looked at.

    7. the string retainer needs either a longer screw or repositioning despite being a direct replacement, but should be a 2 minute job.

    All in all the bass plus parts, paint etc came to around £260 - which is fantastic value.

    • Like 1
  2. Dannybuoy and Iojo are spot on.

    Thats what ive been getting at. Even now, theres a thread on here regarding sansamps and how good they are and where putting it in line or in the send return loop is seen as absolutely fine and normal practice. However, putting an amp in either of those positions causes quite a confusion.

    I asked the question to Tech 21 as initially i was looking to get a vt bass di pedal, but then discovered that the vt500 amp had exactly the same circuitry.

    Tech 21 were fantastic in their responses (big thanks to Lloyd) so much so i will be buying either the pedal or the amp to put in my rack alongside the evo. They confirmed both ways are fine (with a few things to watch) and really explained the best way to do things and what effects both ways would be like sound wise.

     

  3. On my evo i have the amp modeller (Sunn) sorted and the right compression setting all pre programmed in, and its 2 channel so i can flick between basses seemlessly for the detuned songs.it also has the built in tuner and great di.

    The amps now nearly weigh as much as the pre amp pedals as theyre so light, so id be more then happy carrying the amp around as a 1 box solution, rather than what id have to replace it with - tuner - a/b box - preamp pedal - compressor.

  4. Thanks for all your help so far.

    Lewisk - thanks for thst. Youre right, it does look like the send are pre aĺl the effects and colouring. So i wouldnt gain anything.

    Jrixn - thats kind of the goal im after - in effect a basic 1/4 jack line out.

    1 hour ago, lojo said:

    I'm not sure if this is what you want by I use a multi amp and have done these before ...

     

    DI from my amp (xlr to 1/4" jack) into another amp head , works perfectly

    Line out from my amp (1/4" to 1/4") into another head , works perfectly 

     

    This allows me to use the settings in my head (detune , fretless , synth sounds on so on) for our set without derigging the venue or main head (at gig or in some rehearsal rooms) 

    This would be great, but just 2 questions:

    1. What are you using to go from xlr to jack? (ie a special cable or adaptor).

    2. When you say line out, which is that on the amp?

    3. And is 'into another amp head' via the main input or send/return etc?

  5. Remember to set up a dedicated user on the laptop and have all internet, notifications, alarms and updates switched off. 

    Otherwise prepare for embarrassing hour long waits whilst it updates and unmistakeable windows themes tunes coming in at will.

    Even a usb going on and off will cause the alarms. 

    And set so your screen saver doesnt kick in and lock your laptop mid playing.

    • Like 1
    • Thanks 2
  6. I guess what im wondering is if i used say, a sansamp so it went:

    Bass - sansamp - pa

    Bass - sansamp - venue head - venue cab

    Then what is the difference between a sansamp or di pedal and my head?

    A sansamp or any di pedal would use di to the pa and thru jack to the venues head and speaker exactly like im trying to do with my head.

     

  7. Thanks, thats what id usually do when using my set up, but this scenario is slightly different.

    In this case im wondering if my amp head can be used before or in line with the venues head and cab.

    Id ask markbass, but ive never once had a reply off them to any of my questions.

  8. That was my first thought, but we have a few fairly large out door gigs coming up, where i imagine theyll have at minimum an 8x10 etc and i wouldnt know if my amp could give enough out at stage level. So im trusting them to ensure the monitoring is adequate. As theyre festivals we wouldnt even have more than a 10 minite sound check id imagine.

    Effectively im trying to use my amp head as a di box.

  9. Hi all,

    gig wise, i usually use my bass straight into my amp head and cab and di from the amp head into the pa. nice and simple.

    however, weve got a lot of upcoming shared equipment / stage change over gigs etc and im just trying to confirm if i can use my amp head as a 'thru' to their amp head and cab, so i can get my sound both to the pa and the hired in bass rig?

    im thinking:

    bass - my amp head (no speaker) - di to pa

    bass - my amp head (no speaker) - 'send' output - input on their bass head - cab.

    is it ok to use the 'send' out of my amp to the 'input' (not 'recieve') on the front of their bass head via a normal guitar cable?

    im pretty sure they wont want me plugging into their amp return chains (and they might not even have one) etc, so im looking for a way of plugging straight into the input on their bass head.

     

    Theres probably more simple solutions - but using pedals is another expense, and kit to carry around, and swapping amp heads isnt really an option as theirs will be matched for the size of the stage etc.

    im using a class d markbass evo 1. thats why i want to use as a di as it has my sound in one small lightweight package (amp modeller and compressor all built in).

     

    I do have a spare ashdown amp, so if people think this is ok to do i can try it, but just need some reassurance before i try it.

  10. Hi all,

    Ive literally bought a brand new vintage v4 bass for a project and have swapped the fantastic Wilkinson hardware out so it is not needed and has never been used, so its as new. 

    The hardware is fantastic - ove only removed it to replace with the exact same but in gold.

    I am keeping the pickups and pots though.

    So up for grabs is:

    1. Full set wilkinson chrome machine heads with screws.

    2. Chrome string retainer and screw.

    3. Wilkinson chrome bridge with brass saddles.

    4. X2 chrome knobs. (V and T).

     

    Grab yourself a bargain £35 delivered.

     

  11. Hi all,

     

    Does anyone know where i can get a replacement scratchplate for a Vintage V4 reissue precision from?

    I cant find anywhere that sells them, ive found JHS who i believe may own vintage and they only sell to trade, and im not 100% sure these will be a replacement scratchplate.

    I need a black one, to replace my white one.

     

    Any help appreciated.

  12. Ok.

    Lets have a different look at it....

    If a compressor pedal (using 3+ band compression) was called 'bass balancer' and only had (for sake of argument) 4 sliders on it (no dials) and each slider represented a string and moving the slider adjusted the volume and dynamics of each string, so you ended up with a lovely tone for each string which was also adjusted to be the same volume as the other 3, creating a fantastic balanced sound .....

    who would use one? - no dials, thresholds, ratios etc, just 4 sliders that did it for you for each string.

  13. 53 minutes ago, LITTLEWING said:

    Make sure the bare earth wire is tucked into the little slot in the body before you screw down. I've done exactly that before!

    Doh! Ive even done this before myself! I bet thats it. I'll take the bridge back off and see - chances are youre right. Thanks.

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