la bam

9 hours ago, Paul S said:

Strange.  I've had the Boss WL-50 since it came out, used it at various venues and never had an issue apart from one bass that had a recessed jack socket, which was the fault of the bass not the bug. 

 

My guitarist bought an expensive Sennheiser unit but the last two gigs has had to switch to a lead.

 

Funny old things, these wireless.

Yeh, done loads of gigs, loads of stages, then just a little pub and it went bananas. Got me thinking I've done something wrong. So I'll have to double check it.

They do look great amps those. Such a shame swr, warwick etc have disappeared. They did some cracking stuff.

16 minutes ago, dmccombe7 said:

As far as i know and at £550 it had better. Not seen any negative reviews or comments on it or its predecessor.

It has a gain value you can adjust for each bass you use but until i get it i wont know for shure 😂

 

What was happening with your boss WD50 when using an active bass. Could you not flick the bass onto passive mode see if it made a difference. ?

Dave

Was just a really weird one. Its work perfectly before at practice, but last night at soundcheck it was just like a broken microphone. Thatbwas in passive too. Dont know what it was. I'll give it a look over this week.

5 hours ago, dmccombe7 said:

From what i can gather the GLXD16+ transmits on 3 different frequencies at same time and if one sees interference its automatically switches to the next stronger channel. Until i get the unit and the manual i'm kinda assuming some of this from what i've seen in youtube clips and read in reviews.

Dave 

Does the shure work with active basses? My flippin boss wd50 hated mine tonight. Had to use a cable for the first time in 5 years.

16 minutes ago, dmccombe7 said:

Not sure what you mean ?

I have a Smooth Hound for yrs and just fire it up and away it goes. Are the Shure systems different. I thought you just pressed a button and it auto scanned ?

Dave

No, with the boss there is no manual scanning at all. Everytime you plug it in to the receiver it auto checks and finds the best possible signal.

This stops it finding a good signal when the room is empty, then that freq being busier later on when the crowd is in.

It's literally, plug in, let its light stop flashing and you should be good.

Still using my boss wd50. Still doing well. Just remember with any systems like these that auto scan, to put back in the transmitter before starting so it can reach for the best frequency now the room is full.

£395 for a quick sale?

18 minutes ago, bloke_zero said:

 

I loved the build, concept, neck shape, flexibility and loudness, but I didn't get on with it either - tried for about a year gigging and recording - never could quite get a sound I really wanted. US L2000 - horses for courses!

Yes, it was really strange.

My trib l100 used to slam and cut through a mix great, but I just couldnt get any punch out of the l2000 at all. No matter what configuration or amp settings. Some people make them sound great, but it just didnt work for me.

£445?

Still available.

1 hour ago, dub_junkie said:

Which one do you have? 

 

I've started playing mine again a bit more this last week or so. It has one of the easiest five string neck shapes to get along with imo. 

It's the 4 string san dimas in blue.

So versatile and quality.

13 minutes ago, la bam said:

I think I'm going to go for the john east uni 5. I love the idea of it having pretty much everything:

 

Passive/active.

Passive tone.

Pickup blend.

Bass (adjustable band)

Treble (adjustable band)

Mids (parametric).

Flat or shape option.

 

 

I think I'm going to go for the john east uni 5. I love the idea of it having pretty much everything:

Passive/active.

Passive tone.

Bass (adjustable band)

Treble (adjustable band)

Mids (parametric).

Flat or shape option.

On 25/03/2023 at 21:34, BillyBass said:

Oh and....pictures please😃

20 minutes ago, edstraker123 said:

I was just considering selling mine as I'm a bit overloaded with basses currently but then I played it again and the neck is absolutely to die for . If only they did it in a short scale.

Love mine!

13 hours ago, uk_lefty said:

How are Laney for support? I toyed with getting a Laney rig before I stuck to upgrading my Ashdown from Rootmaster to ABM. 

Brilliant in my opinion. I asked a question about my nexus all valve amp and they answered my question within a day and sent me a bag of replacement fuses free of charge in the post.

2 minutes ago, BillyBass said:

Amazon

The Charvels are lovely aren't they, such comfortable necks.

 

It's absolutely everything about them (apart from the shielding)....

The necks are superb. The luminous side fret markers, the high mass bridge, and the tones you can get in passive are unreal. Really loving it. Took some time to get used to where to put my fingers with it being a reverse p, but so comfy to play now and every note stands out.

They're stunning in real life too, a lot nicer than the photos and videos.

1 hour ago, BillyBass said:

Hi @la bamI presume your bass is the Charvel you mentioned in the other thread.  If so, I suggest you shield it whilst you are removing its guts.  The benefit of the sticky copper tape used for shielding is that you can place an earth wire onto it and then stick another bit of sticky copper tape over the stripped end (making sure the strands are splayed out) thereby connecting it to earth without the use of a soldering iron.

 

Still, soldering irons are cheap and it doesn't take long to get the hang of using them

 

 

 

Great stuff, I'll give that a go.

Does anyone know where to buy the copper tape from? And the wire?

I did it years ago  on a different bass using aluminium tape I think from b & q?

Got to admit, I love this charvel.

Balances reallynreallynwell too, no dive at all, so a nice weight and comfort.

1 hour ago, Bald Eagle said:

What's the weight please?

Hi, I have it as just under 9lbs.

Open to offers.

Cheers all, some interesting options there.

On 23/02/2023 at 08:06, BillyBass said:

I'm about to buy a second Charvel 4 string PJ as a back up (and because I want a lime green bass).  I have put a John East pre amp in my metallic blue Charvel and I think it's brilliant: active/passive push-pull and an independent passive tone knob, parametric mid range and a treble boost.  

 

After having three of these Charvels, I'm pretty sure I will be swapping the pre amp of my new one out.  My first thought was to just get another John east pre amp and have an identical back up (except for the strings) but then I thought I could try something new.

 

I have a Nordstrand pre amp in my fiver and its fine, perhaps a little polite, so I won't get another of those.  Has anyone got any other ideas re pre amps available over here?  The Aguilar OB3 is readily available and seems to be an option if you want a bit of oomph, though I'm not sure I can't get anything the Aguilar offers from the John East?

 

Any ideas or suggestions anyone?

Hi, I have a charvel pj too and I'm looking for a preamp. Which one did you use? Thanks.

Hi all,

Does anyone do prewired solderless preamps?

I'm after one I can fit myself so ideally a solderless one.

I'd like it to have a passive / active switch and 3 band eq.

Also as the bass is a p/j I'd like a blend knob.

So ideally....

1. a volume pot with push/pull for active / passive.

2. A blend pot.

3. Treble.

4. Mids.

5. Bass.

Does such a thing exist?

41 minutes ago, jd56hawk said:

The L2000 has passive and active options...you didn't like either mode?

In all honesty, no, unfortunately. It was the clf one as well.

Really really didnt like it, no matter how much I wanted to. It was probably more to do with the band I was in, but it just didnt fit no matter what I did. Shame as it looked cool, sounded great isolated and I had a l100 which was superb and fitted any music without so much as a struggle.

Just one of those weird things.