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JonnyM

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Everything posted by JonnyM

  1. Double post...
  2. My Dingwall SJ5! It's black! It's maple! With a de-tuner on the B! Bazinga!
  3. [quote name='mcgraham' post='1024084' date='Nov 14 2010, 10:15 PM']I have something similar to that - made by Max at SFX sound. Thread on here about it [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=58228&hl=sfx%20monitor&st=20"]Click here![/url] It\s great and forms an integral part of my rig.[/quote] Ah-ha! Now why didn't I think of asking Max first? I've dealt with him before and his work is 1st class. Will drop him a line...
  4. [quote name='jonthebass' post='1023705' date='Nov 14 2010, 06:30 PM']The way it's done in my line of work would be like this: Mic/Guitar/Bass feeds plugged into a mic splitter unit. 1 set of the splits goes to FOH and another set will go to the Monitor mixer for your IEMs. You could then connect the monitor mixer to a headphone amp. Hope that helps in some way, Regards, Jon[/quote] Yes it does, thanks. Shame they're not available in one box! Do you have any suggestions for brands/models?
  5. I'm in an experimental/Gothic duo: guitar (miked amp), bass, 2 x vox and backing track (run from an iPod on stage) and we really need to go to in-ear monitoring due to generally bad monitors in most of the venues we play! We don't jump around (!) so wired IEMs will work fine. We could just split the iPod output and send the track to the DI/FOH and a 2 channel headphone amp of some kind (on stage and in between us). Obviously we'd only have the backing track in the IEMs, so we'd still need to rely on house monitors for vox etc... Not ideal. My question is: how can we get everything in our IEMs using a - fairly - simple setup? (Would the bass feed and guitar mic signal have to go into a mixer before going to the FOH? Is there a mixer out there that can send the bass feed, guitar mic signal and backing track to the FOH and give us separate IEM mixes? Am I dreaming? )
  6. If you have a 37">34" scale fanned fret - or indeed fretless - bass, maybe a Dingwall(!), why not stock up on strings?! 1 x Dingwall Voodoo Stainless Steel 5-string set (Regular Dingwall strings!) 1 x LaBella Nickel Strings (Designed for 37">34" fanned 5-string basses) PRICES REDUCED! [b]£38[/b] for both incl. UK postage or [b]£20[/b] each incl. UK postage (£35 at Bass Direct) Thanks!
  7. Got a "Groove Tubes Fat Finger Guitar Sustain Tool" - bass model - for sale. Sold one here a while back and just found another one (!), although this one is brass, not chrome... They say: "Increases sustain by adding physical mass to the headstock of the instrument. Works on electric and acoustic instruments. Installs in seconds without tools. Will not damage your instrument. Adds tone, sustain, and overall tone balance. Fatfinger for bass is 20% heavier than guitar model. Helps tune out dead spots. Guitar model is 3.2 ounces, bass model is 3.6 ounces. I say: I've used it on a Jazz bass and a Precision and it definitely helped with the dead spots on both and improves the overall sustain, so unlike some weird "improvements", this actually works. Of course, as with most things in life, results may vary... £18 incl. UK p&p (£31.99 from Mansons) Paypal, cheque or cash on collection (Greenwich) only Thanks
  8. [quote name='waynepunkdude' post='890946' date='Jul 9 2010, 11:26 PM']Not a fan but you can't mistake that kind of quality.[/quote] Fair do's... and Dingwalls can be a bit "Marmite", but once you've played one...
  9. An Anyone Interested Bump!
  10. [quote name='Al Heeley' post='889094' date='Jul 7 2010, 11:03 PM']gorgeous - how can you part with it?[/quote] Thanks everyone and TBH, I'm not sure I do want to part with it! Have added trades to the OP: Dingwalls only though...
  11. This is just a feeler right now, for my Dingwall ABII, which was a "show bass" for Winter NAMM 2008. Specs: Scale length: 37" - 34" Aguilar OBP-1 18volt electronics, (switchable passive/active) Body wood: Walnut Top wood: Bear Claw Quilted Maple with Bubinga contrast layer (aka the X-Top Package) Neck wood: 5-piece Bubinga High Gloss body finish Weight: 8lbs 12oz (3.97kg) Comes with a Levys-design Dingwall gigbag and a Hipshot Xtender on the B-string (I regularly de-tune it to an A...awesome!), full set of Dingwall tools. The battery cover on the back is signed by Michael Manring which you may consider to be good or bad... I could go one about the even string tension, monster sound, but... suffice to say, this is cracking bass and I'm teetering on the edge of selling/not selling... The pics don't do it justice Price: £2100, pref. collection from London[b] *SOLD* [/b] (The [b]only[/b] trades I might be interested in: another Dingwall - an SJ5 or Z1 Black&Maple...)
  12. [quote name='Mr. Foxen' post='807309' date='Apr 15 2010, 04:25 PM']I'll take this, peemed.[/quote] ...and SOLD - thanks Mr. F!
  13. Got a "Groove Tubes Fat Finger Guitar Sustain Tool" - bass model - for sale. They say: "Increases sustain by adding physical mass to the headstock of the instrument. Works on electric and acoustic instruments. Installs in seconds without tools. Will not damage your instrument. Adds tone, sustain, and overall tone balance. Fatfinger for bass is 20% heavier than guitar model. Helps tune out dead spots. Guitar model is 3.2 ounces, bass model is 3.6 ounces. I say: I've used it on a Jazz bass and a Precision and it definitely helped with the dead spots on both and improves the overall sustain, so unlike some weird "improvements", this actually works. Of course, as with most things in life, results may vary... [b]£18 incl. UK p&p [/b] (£31.99 from Mansons) Paypal or cash on collection (Greenwich) only Thanks
  14. I had a LMII with the same problem the 1st time I used the DI. Opened it up and found the connector for the DI's XLR had popped off (it was very obvious). Pushed it back on and it worked fine from then on. Am guessing it had worked loose in transit, or it had slipped through QC...
  15. [quote name='walbassist' post='708675' date='Jan 11 2010, 11:44 AM']I have one on order and should have it by the end of next week. I'm hoping it will be the perfect matchup for my EA cabs and allow me to ditch my very good, but butt ugly, Markbass LMK.[/quote] Just curious: you have a Doubler already, so why get a Micro too? I'm surprised not more people are getting Micros, but they are very revealing amps, ie you can hear every detail of your playing, including sloppy stuff etc. Maybe they are perceived as "double bass/acoustic bass amps", which I'd say is wrong...
  16. I have one of these - see my sig for full set-up - and it's so small and light (1kg), more akin to a DI box than an integrated amp. Tonally, I'd say it's clean with great midrange clarity and presence in the lowest frequencies - especially when dropping the low B to an A - a real full-bandwidth amp. Dead simple tone controls, nice lights (!) and it fits the pocket of my effects gig bag. (I often use public transport to get to gigs, so it's very easy to schlep around). It's plenty loud enough for my needs, but my "umph" my be different from yours!
  17. [quote name='Phaedrus' post='697619' date='Dec 31 2009, 10:38 PM']My ME-50B had a built in "tuner" too. So does my rhythm guitarist's GT-8. Neither was any real use. Can the B9.1ut's built-in tuner really compare to something like my DT-10 or a TU-2? And I take it from your [s]gushing[/s] enthusing about the DI ( ) that it'd be a useable alternative to my VXL Bass Attack? Mark[/quote] Well, the Zoom's tuner has no problem tracking low notes, even low B string tuned down to an A. I've not done direct comparisons with a DT-10 or TU-2, but what I do know is tuning up with the Zoom has never given me problems - I tune up, I'm in tune with myself & other instruments and that's it really - what more do you want from a tuner?! Ok, it's probably not as accurate as a Sonic Research tuner, but then nor is a DT-10 or a TU-2 The VXL is a DI with tone shaping and seeing as the B9.1 has both capabilities, I don't see why you need the VXL. My criteria for a DI is: does it work noiselessly and without degrading the signal or getting complaints from sound engineers I've used the B9.1's DI(s) for live & recording and the answer is yes on all counts, so it's less "enthusing", more "yup, this works in these circumstances, I can forget about it"
  18. [quote name='Phaedrus' post='696087' date='Dec 30 2009, 04:44 AM']The bit in bold italics is the bit that I'm concerned with. I guess maybe it comes down to what you're doing with any effects you're using - for a live covers band, a good MFX may be more apropriate. For a guy at home or in a studio, experimenting and trying to perfectly nail that unusual tone he has in his head, maybe separates are the way to go. If I bought all the pedals I now think I might need, the total cost would be over €1000 (though I already have the DT-10 & VXL) . . . DT-10 - €100 Weeping Demon - €130 Bass Blogger - €70 MicroPOG - €190 Sweeper - €130 #1 Echo - €70 Bass Xciter - €120 Punch Factory - €120 VXL Bass Attack - €100 I've been excited about the prospect of using separate pedals, but wary of the cost and the continuous tweaking that'd be involved. IMO, this . . . looks cooler than this . . . But I guess how your pedalboard looks is less important than how suitable your FX set-up is for your application. The B9.1ut is €320 - that's €600 or so cheaper than if I chose separates. Or in other words, €130 shy of the price of a new Peavey amp/cab set-up . . . JohnnyM - do you use the B9.1ut's DI live? If yes, how do you find it? What else have you used to compare it with? Pity Zoom didn't make the bass MFX in black like the guitar ones - the red is gick. Keep the opinions coming guys - this is good. Mark[/quote] Plenty of top bass guitarists playing original music use separates live, but they often have custom boards that almost work like a multi... One other thing to consider when using a big ol' board: if an interconnect goes faulty, you are royally screwed. Yup, all those fancy pedals can suddenly be rendered useless. It only ever happened to me once and in a rehearsal fortunately, but it took about 30mins to figure out which interconnect was the problem and fix it. Not funny and it was a major factor in me looking for alternatives. And don't forget in your separates scenario, you'll have to factor in the cost of a power supply, interconnects, a pedalboard and case. That's a whole lot of extra wedge to find, not that I'm trying to put you off or anything I have used the DI live and I believe the sound person's words were, "Now [i]that's[/i] a great bass sound!" Although he was referring to the bypassed tone, I took from that that the DI was ok I've used a Sansamp as a DI and it was good, but I never got on with it's scooped tone... Tried a few multis a long time ago, so I don't know how more recent MFX compare with the B9.1. The lag and dropout when switching really put me off and the bypassed tone was universally bad. The new MFX are very different to those old tone-suckers though. Yeah, the red isn't great but really, who cares? Who even notices effects boards except other musos and if it works for you, the coolness factor is irrelevant IMHO. If I ever make it big, I might pay someone to re-box it. Hell, on a rainy day with nothing else to do, I might even crack open some old Airfix paints and give it a custom paint job myself! One point: the B9.1 has a built-in tuner, so you won't need an external one. You can probably get rid of the VXL too
  19. [quote name='PURPOLARIS' post='695370' date='Dec 29 2009, 08:51 AM']This is a great topic I've been thinking about effects recently and was wondering which route to go so I'm following this topic with a lot of interest. By the sounds of things it would be better for me to go the expensive multi-FX route (as opposed to the cheap multi fx route). I quite fancy the Zoom one with the valve in it, I think it's the B9 and has been mentioned by the OP. Does anyone have any experience with this pedal ?[/quote] I changed from separates - Compressor, OD & Fuzz in a loop, Octaver, Trem, and Delay/Reverb - to a Zoom B9.1ut and have no regrets whatsoever The reasons I changed were: I wanted to add to the board, but that would have meant making bigger one, 'cos I'd run out of room. The whole caboodle, with a power supply and case, was pretty heavy and getting bigger would, of course, have meant more weight. The main reason though, was playing live was a pain, having to tweak pedals between and sometimes during songs - and not always getting it right either! Also, people said it looked weird that I kept "disappearing" - ie bending down to do "something". (Not being musos, they didn't know exactly what I was doing, but the observation was that it detracted from the performance somewhat). I definitely didn't want to compromise on sound quality for the sake of comfort or ease of use though. All these drawbacks and pitfalls have been addressed with the B9.1ut: it's got more effects than I'll ever need and once you get into editing, they sound really good. They can be easily tweaked and saved - even during soundcheck if needs be. It's pretty light but sturdy, has stereo DIs and an excellent bypass. The control pedal is unique as it has horizontal as well as vertical movement, all programmable. And obviously there's no need to bend down - it's all in the footwork! Oh and seeing as lag has been mentioned, IME it tends to be a problem with multi effects, but the Zoom has, they say, the fastest switching of any multi: 7 milliseconds. Whatever, it's as fast as any separate I've used, that is to say in the real world the Zoom has no lag or drop-out when switching. Okay, so it's not been made by a pedal genius in a shed in the Estonia and painted by some maverick artist, but stepping away from pedal snobbery, this multi just does the trick(s). Can't see myself going back to separates, unless I get a gig where I only need one effect like, say, a overdrive... And I've even got used to the color
  20. [quote name='gafbass02' post='648774' date='Nov 8 2009, 02:01 PM'](edit)...The critical thing is where the boss let me down, i just want the effect to come in at the same damn volume as my clean sound, everytime!, Not ok at home and then too quiet or too loud each time i have to unplug the thing. Real straightforward set and forget, like pedals, but less of a pain to lug about! So the zoom b9.1ut has come to my attention... Has anyone gigged this unit for any time?, can i just set an overall EQ and COMPRESSION and then just press a pedal for chorus, just chorus, not chorus and 1969 fliptop precision, room reverbed, output corrected wangeflobulator!! just one for chorus, one for drive, one for chorus+reverb, one for wah, one for synth, one for flange etc that just adds the effect to my sound as is at the same level [color="#FF0000"]everytime!??[/color]...(edit)[/quote] I've gigged a Zoom B9.1ut for a while now, but I've set it up so I have a patch with various effects per song (that can be switched in and out or not if you prefer). I'm pretty sure that just one patch would do everything you want and I have no problem with output levels either - they are very easy to change and store, and you can clean-blend effects too. Bottom line for me is the sounds I've programmed and tweaked are great but you HAVE to spend some time reading the manual and getting your head 'round how this thing works. I use distortion, fuzz, chorus, trem, octaver, flange, reverb, mad delay, eq and compression...and I'm still tweaking! Check out the manual on this page here: [url="http://www.zoom.co.jp/english/download/manual/english.php"]Zoom B9.1ut Manual[/url] Once you get how it works and if you can handle the colour(!), I think this a fantastic multi and it weighs LOADS less than my old individual pedal set-up Feel free to fire questions at me if the Boss doesn't work out
  21. [quote name='Fraktal' post='646159' date='Nov 5 2009, 12:21 PM']My markbass combo has an internal jumper to switch between american/european voltages. Opening it is really easy and fast, you only need an allen wrench. Considering the LMII head and the combo head have identical specs and electronics, I wouldn't rule out Markbass... There are several jumpers there inside, I remember another one to switch the DI XLR output between pre or post. Surely you can find pics and info if you google for it, I saw it all a few months ago...[/quote] ...And a loud bang will be the last sound your Markbass amp will ever make... Fireworks provided by Markbass Seriously though, there is a way of doing this, but IIRC it's a fiddly job and involves soldering. It also involves invalidating the warranty... Amps by other manufacturers either change automatically or have a switch somewhere that does the job.
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