bagsieblue

What is the deal with the NE1 link to the BB604/5?. I've had a BB604. I've had the NE-1 pedal too. I found the BB604 pre to be nothing alike. I'm sure I remember reading the NE link to the bass was from a Yamaha typo and has become a myth and that there is no link to anything Nathan East related?

Nice....still much prefer the black above though!.

Haha, I don't hence, wanting to paint it....

I've got pickups and pre amp to upgrade. Works so much better in black...yes??

Yes, your old one. Not me on the 5...

Spector NS94. Great bass. Visually looks like a cheap wardrobe....

That did occur to me - not for the front but maybe for the back....

Thanks - Yes, not overly bothered about how perfect the finish is. Value of the bass is relatively cheap so not precious about it. I will of course strip all the hardwear off the bass first.

I'm more or less decided on painting this bass black - the natural body doesn't do much for me, a bit bland I want to paint the body but not the neck. Will be a homemade job as the value of the bass doesn't warrant a pro job. Looking for suggestions on: - The black paint to use - How to address the neck heel - I don't want to paint the neck, so what to do? Tape it off and have a hard, straight line stop? - where exactly should I be looking to do that. - What prep work to the wood do I need to do? I don't think the bass has a coating / covering - so paint straight on or not?

Yeah - I saw some talk on TB of the narrowing the spacing fix to get nearer to the pickup magnets, but also that left the feel of the neck feeling weird given the neck profile's relationship to the string spacing. If this is the case then surely that's just a quick fix. There are a few comments that people didn't notice how pronounced it was until rehearsing / playing live and not as noticeable at home volume levels. Rehearing and gig activity is down as we all know so maybe not all aware and reported. Shame - as I was quite interested. I'm not comfortable it was just a duff pickup batch in the first run. Possibly a batch were CNC'ed incorrectly and routed in slightly the wrong place?, but having said that, photos I've seen of those reported with this problem look to have the pickups in the same location as all the other photos online of the stock images etc. Thats more speculation though of course. Its a design /QC issue to me - hopefully with a full fix on the way.

Only an issue on the 5's? Do you know what the fix is?

It's a real world issue. Plenty of complaints online on TB & FB.

Has anybody got/played a Dimension? Plenty of talk on online of the low volume B and G strings. Apparently sitting outside the range of the pickup due to the offset pickups. Looks obvious in the photos really. Comments seem to be mainly around the low B on the 5'er - anyone tried a 4 String? Magnetic sheet representation on a 5'er.

Any progress BigBassDude? Your 2000 Warwick will have the slim/weak/black truss rod. Sadly, This is a known problem with Warwick basses - my view is there is a disproportionately higher number of this type of failures with Warwick than against other brands. Of course, the removable / non removable rods ties in with the non volute / volute necks. Volute was added to the neck to fix the common historic neck break problem and to give more strength at the nut. I've had 5 Warwicks over the years with truss problems. 4 of which I knew about before actually buying the bass. I know of some others too that I've swerved buying for various reasons. There was a Ltd Ed Blonde Thumb doing the rounds with a truss rod issue a few years ago - last I saw it was eventually parted out. Plenty of stories online of Warwicks with duff truss rods too. The reasons these can become a problem are: Weak Truss Rod- Bad Design. The rod is a softer metal than the nut - so overtightening strips the rod not the nut - Bad Design. User Error - because of the two points above its easy to stuff things up when attempting a tweak, added to some people who must try with sheer brute force, using any old allen key / screwdriver / whatever to try and make adjustments. That said - its not impossible to fix - amateur job on one of mine here - decided on an amateur job purely on cost, say £400 value on a Corvette so not much point in sinking in cracking on for a similar amount again for a pro job. Though a NT thumb would worth more.

Yes - I believe that the truss rods are too weak for the 'strength' of the neck. Photo here of HPW demonstrating the neck strength. I'm sure a number of people try to adjust while these is still tension on the neck too which doesn't help. If adjusting yourself I find it sensible to remove the strings and leave the neck to settle straight before attempting any truss rod tweaks.