surfguy13

Hi Guys

I wonder if anyone can help.....I have a pair of old P Bass pickups and I'm a little confused as to their age. Both pickups are stamped 6466 on the base and although the last two digits are a little smudged it's fairly clear that they are 66.

I was told that the early P Bass pickups in the 70s had a 4 digit code but this stopped in '73/'74. I have no idea if this is correct. All the later 70s P Bass pickups I've seen with a stamped code have 6 digits and that inlcudes my own '76 and '78 P basses.

Not sure if it helps but they are 10.3 ohms.

The wires have been replaced as can be seen in the photos. Anyway, here's some images and thanks in advance for any advice!

[URL=http://s956.photobucket.com/user/guymerchant/media/P%20Bass%20pickups/P%20bass%20pickups%20and%20boost%20008_zpsmldrvxpo.jpg.html][IMG]http://i956.photobucket.com/albums/ae45/guymerchant/P%20Bass%20pickups/P%20bass%20pickups%20and%20boost%20008_zpsmldrvxpo.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

[URL=http://s956.photobucket.com/user/guymerchant/media/P%20Bass%20pickups/P%20bass%20pickups%20and%20boost%20010_zpsxvljllvu.jpg.html][IMG]http://i956.photobucket.com/albums/ae45/guymerchant/P%20Bass%20pickups/P%20bass%20pickups%20and%20boost%20010_zpsxvljllvu.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

[URL=http://s956.photobucket.com/user/guymerchant/media/P%20Bass%20pickups/P%20bass%20pickups%20and%20boost%20011_zpsrnaeqzon.jpg.html][IMG]http://i956.photobucket.com/albums/ae45/guymerchant/P%20Bass%20pickups/P%20bass%20pickups%20and%20boost%20011_zpsrnaeqzon.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

Hi Guys

I wonder if anyone can help.....I have a pair of old P Bass pickups and I'm a little confused as to their age. Both pickups are stamped 6466 on the base and although the last two digits are a little smudged it's fairly clear that they are 66.

I was told that the early P Bass pickups in the 70s had a 4 digit code but this stopped in '73/'74. I have no idea if this is correct. All the later 70s P Bass pickups I've seen with a stamped code have 6 digits and that inlcudes my own '76 and '78 P basses.

Not sure if it helps but they are 10.3 ohms.

The wires have been replaced as can be seen in the photos. Anyway, here's some images and thanks in advance for any advice!

[url="http://s956.photobucket.com/user/guymerchant/media/P%20Bass%20pickups/P%20bass%20pickups%20and%20boost%20008_zpsmldrvxpo.jpg.html"][/url]

[url="http://s956.photobucket.com/user/guymerchant/media/P%20Bass%20pickups/P%20bass%20pickups%20and%20boost%20010_zpsxvljllvu.jpg.html"][/url]

[url="http://s956.photobucket.com/user/guymerchant/media/P%20Bass%20pickups/P%20bass%20pickups%20and%20boost%20011_zpsrnaeqzon.jpg.html"][/url]

Thanks guys, this sort of confirms what I thought......that there will be very little change. I will give it a whirl and see how it goes. I guess I wasn't sure how much the physical size of a string accounted for the pressure placed on the neck and it sounds like the difference between gauges doesn't make [i]that [/i]much difference.

Hi guys

I have a feeling this is a bit of a stupid question but nevertheless I felt it was worth asking!!

I have an old 60s Jazz which has always had 55-105 strings (previously roundwound and now flats). I want to try the bass with a much lighter set as I recently tried a jazz with 45-95 strings and although different was really very nice.

So, the aim is to install 40/45 - 95/100 strings as an experiment. The million dollar question is......will the lighter load result in the neck flattening out a little? I am quite happy to adjust the trussrod accordingly but I guess I have never been quite sure if lighter strings will have any real effect on setup, having always used the same gauge.

Cheers

You have a PM in your inbox at the top of the page.....envelope symbol!

Yes, excellent point! I did consider the issue of it marking the scratchplate but have just added a mod which will hopefully stop that happening. With wood on plastic (or whatever it is) it is really slippy and you have to tighten the screw quite hard to get it to stay in the same place but I have some old black vinyl I used to cover a cab and gut out a small rectangle of that and [i]very [/i]lightly glued to to the underside of the tug bar. It doesn't slip at all and the cushon effect of the vinyl will hopefully stop it marking the scratchplate. Also, you don't have to tighten the screw anything like as hard. I even found a screw that was the same length as the s/plate screw once it had passed through the base of the tug bar so the screw hole isn't enlarged.

I tried the tug bar in the screw hole for the pickup cover and that works really well too, in fact it's a very similar position to the tug bar on the P bass. It also occurred to me that you can make the tug bar as long as you want it, within reason, so if you want to play further back/forward you cover those bases.

I've been playing it all afternoon and it is pure bliss!!!!!!!!

Hi guys

I posted a question about fitting a tug bar to my 60s J bass above the strings, where a later P bass tug would go, but without drilling new holes or using a 2 screw tug bar. I thought maybe I could use a single screw tug bar and install it using a scratchplate screw hole.

@Meddle mentioned that 'exotic wood' single screw tug bars were available on Ebay and I had a look and thought well, they can't be [i]that [/i]hard to make. So set to with a spare bit of solid oak leftover from the kitchen worktops and managed to make a single screw tug bar, using the exiting tug bar as a template. And to my amazement it works perfectly and desn't slip at all. The big advantage is that you can twist it round so it offers loads of different options in terms of how and where you rest your thumb. I have it in line with the scratchplate in the photos but it works really well if it is set parallel to the E too.

Thought I should post a few photos to inspire anyone who wants or needs a tug bar without drilling. Took me about half an hour and it's a lot more satisfying than ordering one off Ebay!

[URL=http://s956.photobucket.com/user/guymerchant/media/Fender%20Jazz%20Bass%201968/J%20bass%20tug%20bar%20004_zpsqnnntwum.jpg.html][IMG]http://i956.photobucket.com/albums/ae45/guymerchant/Fender%20Jazz%20Bass%201968/J%20bass%20tug%20bar%20004_zpsqnnntwum.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

[URL=http://s956.photobucket.com/user/guymerchant/media/Fender%20Jazz%20Bass%201968/J%20bass%20tug%20bar%20002_zpssjmpqvni.jpg.html][IMG]http://i956.photobucket.com/albums/ae45/guymerchant/Fender%20Jazz%20Bass%201968/J%20bass%20tug%20bar%20002_zpssjmpqvni.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

[URL=http://s956.photobucket.com/user/guymerchant/media/Fender%20Jazz%20Bass%201968/J%20bass%20tug%20bar%20001_zpshndtfvjc.jpg.html][IMG]http://i956.photobucket.com/albums/ae45/guymerchant/Fender%20Jazz%20Bass%201968/J%20bass%20tug%20bar%20001_zpshndtfvjc.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

[quote name='Meddle' timestamp='1432504954' post='2782206']
The earliest P basses had a tug bar that fitted with a single screw. Tighten it down enough and it might stay in place. For a while at least. There seems to be a selection of them on Ebay, but they are all made of exotic wood.

Might be time to learn floating thumb technique?
[/quote]

I had no idea early P's had a one screw version. It seems odd that they aren't available as there are millions of listings for the 2 screw variety. I didn't see the exotic wood options on ebay but I'll try searching for P bass tug bars instead of J basses.

Floating thumb technique....I'm [i]so[/i] used to having my thumb firmly attached to a tug bar that the thought of having it just floating seems almost impossible.

Appreciate the nod about the wood tug bars, will go and check them out!

Hi Guys

I have a 60s Jazz with a tug bar below the strings. I do use it sometimes but am used to a tug bar above the strings a la a 70s P bass and want to try and fit one. I have seen the absurdly expensive zero mod options but I'm really reluctant to spend £30+ on a small bit of plastic.

So, wondering if there is such a thing as a tug bar with one central hole that could be fitted into the screwhole on the pickguard that's located above the strings in roughly the same area as on a P bass? I realise that it could spin around but I'm sure I could put a couple of smalls blobs of silicone on the base of the tug bar.

I guess the alternative is to make one from wood................?

Any ideas would be much appreciated!

Could you confirm the width of the neck at the nut please? Also, do you have an accurate weight? Many thanks.

Are you in the UK?

OK, I have now tested the princeton with the strat all over the place and.........no crackling! However, when I went back into the room where the guitar/amp was noisy yesterday..........no crackling!!!! Just can't understand it. Everything was the same.....plugged into the same socket, same lead etc etc and as much as I tried I couldn't replicate the noise.

So, I will do the same thing with the Twin tomorrow, and it did seem worse on the Twin, and see how I get on. Very very weird though, doesn't make any sense at all!

Photos of the body cavities and scratchplate:

[URL=http://s956.photobucket.com/user/guymerchant/media/Dennis%20Galuszka%2054%20anniversary%20strat/start%20cavities%20and%20bulgin%20socket%20003_zpsc8k2fdoi.jpg.html][IMG]http://i956.photobucket.com/albums/ae45/guymerchant/Dennis%20Galuszka%2054%20anniversary%20strat/start%20cavities%20and%20bulgin%20socket%20003_zpsc8k2fdoi.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

[URL=http://s956.photobucket.com/user/guymerchant/media/Dennis%20Galuszka%2054%20anniversary%20strat/54strat001_zps80e727ad.jpg.html][IMG]http://i956.photobucket.com/albums/ae45/guymerchant/Dennis%20Galuszka%2054%20anniversary%20strat/54strat001_zps80e727ad.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

[quote name='icastle' timestamp='1426452219' post='2718207'] If it was just one of the amps exhibiting this then it's a possibility, but for two of them to have a strange interaction going on kinda pushes the boundaries a bit. I'm still thinking its a guitar issue but that doesn't really get you any further forward without some more guesses as to what it could be. How about taking the amp and guitar upstairs (or vice versa) and trying it there - you can sometimes get some pretty nasty noise on a ring main and changing floors will rule that out. I usually use the IMG tags for posting photos - just upload them to a hosting site and paste the url. [/quote]

I agree, it seems like it's guitar related but the only thing that comes to mind is shielding the cavities however, the fact that there was no noise using the AC30 chucks a large spanner in the works. The AC30 and the Twin live side by side but I think your idea of trying the guitar through the amp in another area makes [i]perfect [/i]sense and I will do that tomorrow.

It's encouraging that the guitar was fine through the Vox so that at least offers a bit of hope that the issue can be fixed. I might go ahead and shield the scratchplate and the cavities just to rule that out. I was considering doing it anyway.

I'll report back tomorrow once I've tested the amps! Thanks a million for your help and suggestions so far!

[quote name='icastle' timestamp='1426447376' post='2718155']
How about the pickup selector switch?

They sometimes go a bit intermittent as they're an open 'skeleton' construction which pick up a lot of crud and gunge (technical term ).

Next time you get the crackle, try moving the switch back and forth vigorously and see if that makes a difference.

If it does then you might fix it with a squirt of switch cleaner, or if worse comes to worse, a replacement switch isn't too expensive.
[/quote]

Doesn't seem to be the pickup selector switch...I'd already lubed the pots and switch just in case. The switch is pretty clean to be honest, no dirt to speak of.

Interesting though, I have just put the strat through an early 60s AC30 and no crackle so..........?! Tried all 3 channels and focused on the 'brilliant' channel and yet no crackle at all. I rarely if ever use the strat through this amp, normally use the princeton and the twin, '57 and '54 respectively, and it is with these amps that I'm getting the crackling. It's worth noting that the circuit in both these amps is 100% original, not a single component changed, and they both run like a dream, no noise at all. However, I wonder if there is some sort of strange interaction going on between the components in guitar and amps? Long shot I know.

By the way, when posting a photo is it: IMG or Direct?

[quote name='KiOgon' timestamp='1426439151' post='2718047']
If you lift the scratch plate - can you put up a picture of what's in there? Any shielding on the underside of scratchplate? Are the cavities painted with conductive paint already? Is it just the pots crackling? Or the jack?
[/quote]

No, no shielding on the back of the scratchplate and no conductive paint in the cavities. This is what I was getting at......I think it's maybe been made [i]too [/i]close to the original and is subsequently 'warts and all'.

I cannot remember which option I choose to drop a photo into a post so have included a link to my photobucket album. Page 1 shows the body cavities and page 3 shows the scratchplate. Hope this helps.

http://s956.photobucket.com/user/guymerchant/library/Dennis%20Galuszka%2054%20anniversary%20strat

The crackling is weird and it's not like an earthing problem like when you touch the neck the buzzing ceases. It's a very mild crackling and a bit intermittent. It's not like a dodgy jack socket or a bad lead (I've tried 3 leads). It's more like interference almost. It [i]could [/i]be the pickups I guess?

Hi Guys

I seem to have developed a problem in a strat which is puzzling me and I wonder if anyone had any thoughts?

I need to explain that this is a '54 anniversary strat made by fender's custom shop to [i]exact [/i]specs of a '54 guitar, even down to manufacturing bridge saddles stamped pat. pending. Yeah, I know, well over the top but it is the best strat I've ever played. However, I wondered weather the process of copying the original that closely has resulted in noise problems that old guitars commonly had?

Anyway, I have a couple of old 50s fender amps and whenever I plug the strat into either of these I get a kind of static crackling which is not particularly in your face and which I assumed was an issue with the amp at first but it's not as it happens in both amps. It's almost as if the guitar was not earthed correctly. It does fade in and out a bit too and is just slightly irritating. It gets louder as the volume is increased. I was recording the other evening and for the first time I could hear it on playback.

Pickup height is fine, more or less to fender specs, and there is nothing that I can think of that might be adding to or causing the problem.

I've checked the earth wire is firmly soldered to the trem plate and it is. Everything else seems to be OK with no obvious problems. I was wondering if maybe the cavities needs to be lined with copper or..............?

Any thoughts would be appreciated!

[quote name='Rick's Fine '52' timestamp='1420312709' post='2648007']
Try something like this, theres lotsof different styles available;

[url="http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=221554637961"]http://pages.ebay.co...id=221554637961[/url]
[/quote]

Great idea, I had no idea these things were available, but sadly it's not going to fit the '54 scratchplate. The edge of the plate above the E is MUCH deeper than on a standard P bass guard. It could be fitted but it would be too far from the E.

Hi guys

I have just picked up a lovely blue flower '54 P bass from @Muppet today and am absolutely delighted with both the feel and the sound. Totally different to anything I've ever played and all the better for it.

However.....I am used to a tug bar above the E, a la 70s P basses, and I am feeling somewhat lost without having anywhere to plant my thumb! I was told not to rest my thumb on the pickup as there is potential to damage the coil........is that right?

So, I could drill two holes in the scratchplate and install a standard P bass tugbar above the E. However, I guess it might be wise not to drill holes in the body and scratchplate if I don't [i]have [/i]to so it occurred to me that I could possibly install a replacement scratchplate and superglue a tug bar onto it so's to avoid drilling holes. Does that sound like a plan that might work?

If so, I have the original scratchplate to use as a template so would it be possible to make a scratchplate out of plastic or perspex? I'm not sure how I'd cut it and I also have no idea how I'd smooth the cut edges. Would it be better to just buy a ready made replacement scratchplate?

If I go ahead and buy a replacement, is the scratchplate on the '51 P bass the same as the s/plate on the blue flower '54? Is there anywhere in the UK where I can buy ready made scratchplates or get a custom made s/plate?

Any advice would be warmly appreciated!

PMd......

Sorry! Just realised you mentioned this above! Duh......

Does the P bass have it's original case?

[b] Fender Vintage Phillips Head Telecaster Tele Bridge Saddle Length Screws[/b]

[quote name='Billy Apple' timestamp='1417346633' post='2619300']
I played one in a shop and found the neck dive horrendous. Everything else about it was great though. Although, come to think of it I can't remember if it was the short scale!

Check out the Guild Starfire if you're wanting a SS semi. I've just got one and it's great

Any-hoo, try the Gretsch before you buy and take a strap!
[/quote]

That's a large part of the problem, and the main reason for this post, if I do buy the Gretsch it will have to be unseen which I am extremely reluctant to do.

You mentioned that you'd tried one in a shop......was that the Gretsch or the EB3 I mentioned in my post? If it was the Gretsch then I really do appreciate the nod as this was my real concern....a large hollow body and a solid neck!!!! A recipe for neck dive if ever there was one. The Broadkaster is in Luton with Coda who are one of the best shops in the UK, for me anyway, and I know that if it wasn't right they'd sort something out for me but it seems like a lot of hassle if there is a chance of it being neck heavy.

I tried all sorts of straps with the old EB3 to try and contain the neck dive but nothing worked and I found myself constantly wrestling with the neck to keep it 'up'.

Anyway, thanks for the info...
[quote name='AndyTravis' timestamp='1417347683' post='2619324']
It's funny, the short scale hollowbodies end up feeling about the same size as a full scale Fender, and then stuff like the Jack Casady Epiphone ends up feeling super long.

I've owned the Jack Casady (fully hollow, long scale) and it did want to head to the floor at times; there's no weight in the body and the neck is all the way out to the left. I gigged mine plenty and you just get used to it - I bought a wide strap which seemed to solve the issue.

I had a DeArmond Starfire for a week or so recently and it sat really odd on me - I tend to wear basses around the middle-high on a strap (not Mark King chinwarmer high, more sensible Pino Palladino height ) and that was a short scale with no neck dive.

As Billy States, take a strap, but £600 seems very fair, and you'd not struggle to recoup that.

They do a similar looking Electromatic version, but that's long scale and I can imagine that would be a balance nightmare.

I've often been tempted, but always end up missing out, or buying something else.

My 'hollow body' is currently a Danelectro DC59, and it covers that sound for me - I've got a bad back, and always end up back with Fender Precisions as they suit me ergonomically, if not always sound wise...

I'd say this Gretsch is worth a punt, and if the balance isn't 100% then try a suede-backed strap to help grip it to your shoulder.
[/quote]

The Gretsch may well be worth a punt as you say and it's not a lot of cash for a very well made instrument but I think I'm going to have a word with Coda again tomorrow and ask if they can check the Broadkaster out for balance on a strap, I'm sure they'll be happy to do that.

I had wondered about an Epi Jack Cassidy (having been a lifelong Jefferson Airplane fan!! ) and somebody told me exactly what you have said.......that the body is so large that the 34" scale makes the bass feel [i]very [/i]elongated indeed and also are a bit neck heavy as a result.

I too wear basses middle-high, certainly the Jazz and I have now and the old Ps I've had in the past, and that does definitely help where neck dive is concerned. I've got a 25 + year old D'addario strap that pumps up like a lilo (honest!) and it's the best strap I've ever owned. It's also very wide over the shoulder. When you pump up the cushion inside the strap it inflates ridges and if you get just the right amount of air in there it does hold a bass fairly well in place.....however, mine has now given up the ghost and no longer inflates but it's still a great strap!!

I'll speak to Coda tomorrow and see what I can glean.......thanks again for all the advice.

[quote name='AndyTravis' timestamp='1417342981' post='2619230']
Never played one, but the guitar equivalents are beyond superb.

Fantastically put together, sound great and look the part.

Played the electromatic bass versions, and they're nice, but putting 2 and 2 together, they don't 'breathe' like their more expensive counterparts.

If it's a decent price, go for it, you can always sell it on again (I'd assume it'd take a little longer than a precision bass to sell, but you wouldn't lose money...in theory).
[/quote]

[b]Really [/b]helpful, thanks a lot for that!

Yeah, it was the reputation of the jap reissue guitars (the pro range) that made me seriously consider the broadkaster. I had no idea that Gretsch made reissue basses and as I was looking for a semi rather than a solid body bass this seemed to fit the bill.....and at £600 inc case and 9 out of 10 condition it seemed like a really good deal. I had come to the same conclusion.......it's probably worth buying just to try it for 6 months and if I get on with it......great. If I don't I should be able to get my money back and that can't be bad.

I'm familiar with short scale basses (and guitars( having had the EB3 and know that they are a bit of a compromise in relation to a 34" scale bass but I'm interested to see just how they differ from a soild body like a Jazz. A LOT no doubt!!! Certainly in terms of sound. I guess I'm slightly concerned about a floating bridge but that can be sorted with double-sided tape so.......?

Anyway, comments are very much appreciated.

Hi Guys

I'm seriously considering one of these second hand and was wondering if anyone had used or owned one and had an opinion? I realise that short scale basses aren't everybody's cup of tea but as a guitarist that plays bass I think the shorter scale may work on one or two levels. Particularly with the larger hollow body.

The only other short scale bass I've owned was an early 70s EB3 which sounded great, and the scale was fine and worked OK, but the neck was maple and far too heavy for the body so neck dive killed it for me.

I believe these 'professional' range guitars and basses from Gretsch are made in japan and are really high quality but have no personal experience.

Any views or words of wisdom would be very much appreciate before I take the plunge!!!