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surfguy13

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Everything posted by surfguy13

  1. No problem at all!!! I should have made it clear that the Selmer was a valve head, not SS. I'm a guitarist that plays bass, not a bass player, and sometime forget this!! I REALLY appreciate the advice regardless, I always get really confused with impedance, no idea why, it's not [i]that [/i]complicated! [quote name='BassTractor' timestamp='1361649072' post='1988871'] Just to be sure: my initial reply was wrong. It never crossed my mind that the head could be a valve amp. Sorry! Like others have written: do not connect a valve head's 8 Ohm output to a 16 Ohm cab load. b, b [/quote]
  2. Incredibly helpful replies, thank you!!! I think I am starting to understand. I didn't realise that hooking up two cabs will effectively halve the impedance....if I'm honest I thought it would double it!!! Yes, the Selmer has two outputs on the rear panel....a 7.5 and a 15 as Musky mentioned. It is a 50 watt valve head, not SS. It has SS rectification though if that makes a difference? So....am I right in thinking that if I take a lead from the 16 ohm 'out' on the amp and then somehow split the lead with a jack going to each 16 ohm socket on the cabs I'll be OK? If this is correct what would be the best way of splitting the signal to each cab? I assume a simple connector block is out of the question? If there is a dedicated product I could use to split the signal from the amp that would be great although I'm happy to try anything!!!! Thanks guys....
  3. Hi guys I have a pair of fender PA columns with 4 x 8" speakers in each cab. The cabs have seperate 32 ohm and 8 ohm jacks on the back. I want to hook up both cabs to an old mid 60s Selmer treble and bass head if possible but I'm not too sure about impedance issues and also how to hook them up. I intend to use them mainly for guitar but was surprised when I tried a bass through the head and one of the cabs last night to find that 4x8" speakers sounded very good indeed. So....possibly bass as well. Could I, for example, take a single cable from the 8 ohm speaker out jack on the head and split it? Would this still give me 8 ohms to each cab? I assume I could also use a splitter box? I can't think of any other way to do it and am still unsure about impedance. The speakers sound absolutely amazing and I'd like to use both if possible. Any ideas on how to do this would be warmly appreciated!
  4. [quote name='6v6' timestamp='1361547181' post='1987359'] Well on an amp that old, it's a bit hard to be certain, since the output transformer may not be original - the only way to be 100% sure would be to measure it, but looking at the schmatic and part numbers can give information on what would have been fitted originally: [url="http://www.turretboards.com/layouts_schematics/fender/schematics/fender_bassman_ab165.gif"]http://www.turretboa...ssman_ab165.gif[/url] This shows that the output transformer (TR3) has a single secondary winding, and that the part number is 125A13A A bit more googling finds various replacement transformers claiming to be equivalent to a 125A13A, and all of them I looked at have a single 4ohm secondary, e.g: [url="http://www.tubesandmore.com/products/P-T1750L"]http://www.tubesandm...oducts/P-T1750L[/url] So assuming your amp is original, I'd say it will work best into a 4ohm load. What your amp tech told you is somewhat true, although I personally would not make that recomendation, particularly if you plan to use the amp for bass. If you have a high quality output transformer, you can mismatch the load a bit on tube amps and get away with it, *but* doing so risks sounding bad, reducing headroom and possibly reducing the life of your power tubes, so I would definitely stick to a 4ohm load. [/quote] [quote name='Bill Fitzmaurice' timestamp='1361549374' post='1987405'] The [i]impedance [/i]of the original cab was 4 ohms. It was designed to handle two, making it 2 ohms. We used to run them with anywhere between 1 and 8 ohms with never any complaint. I doubt it would be all that happy at 16 ohms, though. [/quote] Can't thank you enough for all that really useful information!! Really is amazingly helpful and to know that a 4 ohm cab is best suited - and yes, a 16 ohm cab is NOT going to right at all. I guess you could get away with 8 ohms at a pinch but 16 is out. The OT is original to the amp but a UK spec mains transformer has been fitted so that may make a difference? I have the 110v transformer so that could easily be re-installed. Thanks again guys.....
  5. Can anyone tell me what the resistance is for a AB165 circuit Bassman head from 1967? I was told by an amp tech that I could use a 4,8 or 16 ohm cab. Is this correct? I can't find any indication as to what the resistance is on the internet so maybe the tech was correct? Any info would be MOST welcome!! Thanks.
  6. Anyone got a Flynn FET Boost they might consider trading for a Fulltone Fat Boost 2 in pretty much mint condition with box? Would also consider buying a FET if the Fulltone wasn't appealing.
  7. Hi Will Thanks for the photos......I'll have them! Cheers Guy
  8. Gentle bump for the weekend!!
  9. Power block now sold......
  10. You have a PM sir!
  11. This is a HUGE pedalboard and will take virtually everything you can chuck at it - will take up to 30 pedals!!! I'm more of a 'feet and inches' man and was given the metric measurements and thought it would be OK but it was significantly larger than I thought it would be!!! This board is built like a tank and is amazing condition - just one small hole in the covering above the small logo on the side but it's nothing at all really and has just caught on something sharp. As you can see from the photo below, with a Fulltone Fat Boost pedal, there is masses of space not only for pedals that are actively being used but also for 'spares'. The board has superb heavy-duty feet on the underside of the base and on the rear of the board so that it stands up without wobbling all over the place. The board measures: Int: 1020 x 450 x 100 or 40" x 17.75" x 4" - the internal height will take a mesa boogie V-twin with ease Ext: 150 x 1060 x 510 or 5.5" x 41.75" x 20" (including feet) Weight: 10Kg More details on the Diago site: [url="http://www.diago.co.uk/pedalboards/diago-pedalboards.html"]http://www.diago.co.uk/pedalboards/d...dalboards.html[/url] I'd like £75 for the board + shipping which [i]should[/i] be £9 on a UPS next day. I can confirm this. Please PM me if you'd like any more details.
  12. After much deliberation I have decided to part with my last 50s princeton, I've had 3 and this is arguably the best which is why it's the last to go!! [IMG]http://imageshack.us/a/img152/1788/fenderprinceton1957039.jpg[/IMG] The amp is in perfect working order and is used every few days, it has not been sitting in the back of a cupboard for years! The amp has all it's original parts with the exception of the handle, which is over 30 years old, and the speaker which is a Weber Signature 8. The upper back panel was re-covered a looong time ago and it has been done [b]really [/b]well. The transformers are original as can be seen on my Image Shack page. [IMG]http://imageshack.us/a/img585/6247/57princeton2006.jpg[/IMG] I find the original Oxford speakers just too brittle and shrill and that's why the Weber is in there. If you want to return it to fully original spec the old Oxford 8", 4 ohm speakers can be bought online in the US for about £50. The Weber Sig 8 has to be the best option anywhere on the market for this amp - it handles anything you can throw at it with ease. [IMG]http://imageshack.us/a/img547/4278/fenderprinceton1957010.jpg[/IMG] The mains lead was replaced by John Chambers (Chambinio) in Nottingham about 3 years ago at which time he went through the whole amp. I still have the original mains lead so it can be returned to original spec very easily. A capacitor has to be removed when installing a modern mains lead but I have this as well, in perfect working order, so that can be re-installed too. [IMG]http://imageshack.us/a/img267/5033/fenderprinceton1957008.jpg[/IMG] The general condition of the amp is excellent - there is a small patch on the front where the tweed has worn into a hole but otherwise the whole amp is extremely sound. It still has the original feet. All the caps and resistors are working perfectly with no issues at all and although some techs say they [b]must[/b] be swapped out for safety reasons this is absolute rubbish. [IMG]http://imageshack.us/a/img834/931/fenderprinceton1957011.jpg[/IMG] I now have two 50s tweed amps left and both of them have worked faultlessly and I have never had any problems whereas I can't say the same of my 60s and 70s amps, let alone modern amps. The date of manufacture of this amp is conformed on the internal tube chart as cab be seen below. These are often missing or torn making identification more difficult. The chassis number can be seen on the 2nd photo. [IMG]http://imageshack.us/a/img404/393/fenderprinceton1957006.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://imageshack.us/a/img834/4816/fenderprinceton1957026.jpg[/IMG] I am selling the amp with a high quality step-down transformer which simply sits in the back of the cabinet. I often see people say they don't want an amp with a step-down transformer......why? It makes no difference whatsoever. I always store them inside the amp where they can't be seen or cause problems. For transit the mains disconnects from the transformer. Please see photo below. I have also made a small 'tray' on castors from pine - this comes with the amp if you want it!!!! [IMG]http://imageshack.us/a/img89/294/fenderprinceton1957043wc.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://imageshack.us/a/img6/7303/fenderprinceton1957037.jpg[/IMG] The amp has an old Sylvania rectifier, an early Brimar 6V6 power valve and an old Tung Sol 12AX7. I have tried numerous preamp and power amp valves in the amp and this is the best combo. I have an old CBS 6V6 which I am happy to include with the sale as a spare, this valve also sounds amazing. [IMG]http://imageshack.us/a/img35/6246/fenderprinceton1957009.jpg[/IMG] I have masses of photos of the chassis and side/top/bottom panels on my Image Shack page - please feel free to check it out: [url="http://imageshack.us/g/1/9962585/"]http://imageshack.us/g/1/9962585/[/url] I really want a straight sale on this but I could be tempted to trade a really old P or J bass (happy to add cash) or a CS Les Paul. I sold my other 1957 princeton last year for £1450 but that had it's original speaker. Therefore I think £1175 is a fair asking price. These old amps appreciate even when the market is depressed so it's not only a cracking and usable amp but you'll always be able to get your money back on it. Very happy to ship which should be about £12 on a UPS next day within the UK, however that doesn't include insurance. If the 'tray' that the amp sits in is included then shipping may be more as it's solid pine. Please PM me if you need any more details.
  13. A final bump for the new year......
  14. I understand how the bridge works but do you get any movement when playing? Back in the 70s when I had an old 60s semi hollow bass with this type of bridge I found that it was constantly moving both laterally and forward and back. I eventually had to have it pinned. Do you find there is movement when playing blues/rock? Is there a hard case with the bass? [quote name='Mathew Piotrowski' timestamp='1357293883' post='1920390'] Bridge isnt glued to the body - its just pushed down to the body by the sting tension like on most of hollowbody guitars. Everything is fine with it. There are brass saddles on it and tuning is very good. Here are new nickelwound stings (45-105). Thunners are pretty ok. But shaller or groover tuners will be a bit better:) [/quote]
  15. Hi Very nice! Couple of questions - do you find that the bridge moves? It can be a problem on archtops from the 60s, particularly with this type of bridge. Can be a major pain too!!!! What strings is the guitar set up with? Tuners OK? No slippage? Is there a case with it?
  16. A gentle bump for New Year! Any excuse......
  17. Thanks Bassman Rich, appreciate you passing on details. Sadly no, although it was highlighted in red in my letter Santa he [i]didn't[/i] bring me a '59 LP....what is the world coming to? [quote name='Bassman Rich' timestamp='1356882028' post='1914652'] Just passed the details of this on to my mate who is after a 175 or 175T. Myself, I can't imagine anything sadder than listing such a beautilful guitar for sale on Christmas Day, unless of course you recieved a 1959 LP from santa.... Happy Christmas bump anyway, and good luck with the sale. [/quote]
  18. Thank you kindly sir.......! [quote name='NancyJohnson' timestamp='1356780313' post='1913461'] Ooh lovely. Have a bump. [/quote]
  19. A gentle bump for the weekend...
  20. Cherry 335 from 2005 in mint condition...well, I can't find any marks on it! Really nice guitar set up with 11s and ready to go. Although there are no marks or dings anywhere on the body, the hardware is a bit tarnished which, for me, improves the overall vibe. Nothing worse that bright shiny pickup covers!! [url="http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/7/2005gibsones335006.jpg/"][/url] I took the guitar in a trade recently and although I wasn't intending to hang on to it I nearly did! [url="http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/22/2005gibsones335011.jpg/"][/url] As it's a 2005 model it didn't suffer the fate of Burstbuckers and instead had Classic 57s installed and for me sounds much better than the later ones. [url="http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/221/2005gibsones335013.jpg/"][/url] I'm not really looking for trades on this and £1350 is what I'm looking for including shipping within the UK. Please PM me for further details or photos.
  21. Seasonal Greetings!! I advertised this guitar long ago and didn't manage to work out a deal even though it was up for a trade or straight sale. Nobody has large sums of cash at the moment so I am really happy to consider a trade or a part ex of some sort. Ideally for a vintage guitar or vintage Fender P or J bass. In terms of modern stuff I'd only be interested in a custom shop les paul......well, probably! [IMG]http://imageshack.us/a/img41/114/64175003.jpg[/IMG] This 175 is a straight all original guitar bar an old re-fret and new nut at the same time. The case is a 1954 ES-175 Lifton case in pretty amazing condition. [IMG]http://imageshack.us/a/img341/7669/64175016.jpg[/IMG] The all-round condition of the guitar is really excellent although there are small dings here and there as you would expect. The body and the neck are definitely not refinished. [IMG]http://imageshack.us/a/img856/9475/64175012.jpg[/IMG] The pickups are both original and sound sublime. [IMG]http://imageshack.us/a/img827/737/img0787em.jpg[/IMG] The old cans are there on the pots but I must admit I have never seen to remove the wiring loom to check its authenticity - it [i]looks [/i]100% and given the condition of the rest of the guitar I'm sure that's the case. [IMG]http://imageshack.us/a/img845/1153/64175001.jpg[/IMG] There's really not a lot more to say about the guitar, it is incredibly versatile and when you consider what Steve Howe has done with his '64 175 over the years. I use it for virtually everything including rock. The pickups have a lovely mellowness that you only get with early pat no pickups or PAFs but the biting tone is still there is you want that too. [IMG]http://imageshack.us/a/img59/2562/twinand175007.jpg[/IMG] I have loads of photos of the guitar and am really happy to email more over - similarly I am happy to take photos of any part of the guitar. I'm in Cambridgeshire, just north of Cambridge and would be happy to ship the guitar if that was necessary but If you are interested try and get over to try it - coffee/tea will be supplied as required!! I'm also happy to ship outside the [IMG]http://imageshack.us/a/img849/9229/64175018.jpg[/IMG] In terms of value for a trade, or a straight sale, I have kept my eye on prices of early 60s 175s for some time and most of those offered have had changes such as pickups/refinish etc whereas this guitar is as it should be bar a refret and nut. Guitar Village has a '64 in stock for £3999 but that has had a full refin, new bridge, new trapeze, new fingerboard, grover tuners etc. So, in light of that I reckon £3950 is fair for an all original guitar with a 50s Lifton case. Please email me at: enquiries@bccsi.co.uk
  22. Hi Si.....consider yourself PM'd!!
  23. Hi JImmy Wondering what speaker you put in there and is it a 10"? Cheers Guy
  24. [quote name='bigjohn' timestamp='1355170369' post='1895019'] I have the B3158, which is similar to the B3 except it's biamped with an 8" aswell as the 15". They're good amps. Not LOUD, but great tone and very well built. they can be a bit prone to overheating. I paid £275 for mine a while back. Maybe 6 or 7 years ago. [/quote] [quote name='basshead56' timestamp='1355206881' post='1895306'] I used one at a gig when I was at uni and fell in love. They had just stopped making them at that stage. As already stated here, they arent the loudest but they do have a speaker out! I hadnt got a decent amp myself at that stage so spent many a day looking through ebay and other placea to find one before giving up and getting a Fenser Rumble Just before I left for NZ two years ago, a mate got one in a trade but didnt want it and offered it to me for 75 euros with a case. If i hadnt just bought a micro vr and 2 cabs here-then a plane ticket, i wouldve taken it!!! Guess it wasnt meant to be.haha Thanks guys, really helpful. I decided to go for it and picked it up today. VERY impressed indeed - as you both said, not the loudest combo in the world, far from it, but yes, it has a speaker out so that helps a lot. Nice graphic and good to have the option to switch from graphic to standard tone controls and back with a push/pull pot. The amp hasn't been used since 2003 and stored in a flight case but all the pots worked well and it really did sound sweet as soon as I plugged it in. Built like a tank too, in fact it is build VERY well indeed. I think it'll be a keeper and at the price, with a full flight case, it just has to be a bargain. [/quote]
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