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hamfist
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now SOLD Sale price - £345 posted Made some tough decisions at band practice last night about basses. Decided to withdraw one I had up for sale and sell this one. This Yamaha is an absolutely superb example of it's kind, and in the nicest colour ! Build quality is outstanding. Neck is straight and true, everything works 100%. Great resonance from this instrument and excellent balance across all strings and pickups. The both pickups blended 50:50, fingerstyle tone is particularly impressive IMO. Rich and full, yet highly articulate. A magnificent instrument in fact. Why am I selling it then ? Well, despite it's great playability the nut width is just a smidge too wide for me (at 40mm). So, anyway, the lowdown ...... - 1990's MIJ Yamaha TRB4II, completely and utterly stock. - 2 x Yamaha humbucking pickups - 3 band EQ active preamp - ONE PIECE Ash body - laminated maple neck - 35" scale - Transparent blue stained, gloss poly finish - Hiscox Liteflite hardcase Do a bit of research and you will find out how well thought of these basses are, and not without good reason. If you look closely there are a few minor dings and scratches on it but ultimately it is still a bass in really excellent condition. However, the pics say more than words in this case. Sale price now reduced to £345 posted within mainland UK, or a little bit less for collection near Southampton. A stupid price for such a nice instrument. Trade price still considered to be £370 to balance the generally inflated self-valued prices of trades (many folks do not seem to be accepting the almost dead used bass market currently). Only trade I might be interested in is a PJ or dual humbucker/soapbar pickup'ed bass with a Jazz-width neck. [url="http://www.ephotobay.com/share/trb-body-front-angled.html"][/url] [url="http://www.ephotobay.com/share/trb-front-full.html"][/url] [url="http://www.ephotobay.com/share/trb-body-rear.html"][/url] [url="http://www.ephotobay.com/share/trb-body-front.html"][/url] [url="http://www.ephotobay.com/share/trb-full-rear.html"][/url] [url="http://www.ephotobay.com/share/trb-case.html"][/url] [url="http://www.ephotobay.com/share/trb-hstock-front.html"][/url] [url="http://www.ephotobay.com/share/trb-0hstock-rear.html"][/url] [url="http://www.ephotobay.com/share/trb-neck-rear.html"][/url] -
[quote name='Ambassador' timestamp='1408978628' post='2535146'] Funnily enough for me it is the closest to ergonomic perfection I have found! [/quote] Yup, many have said that about the Fortress. But, for me, it's just not right. Possible desired trades ....... Nice Ibanez SR, Fender MIM or MIJ PJ (jazz neck), corvette $$, Lakland 44-01, higher end Bass collection, Cort A4, old Aria SB ?? (narrower nut versions), Status energy, higher end Yamaha BB, ACG, Spector Legend, Peavey CIrrus, PEavey Dyna Unity, Peavey T40, STreamer LX4, Spector NS2000/4 etc etc. -
Apologies to all who were potential buyers, but I have decided I cannot let it go yet. I will persevere with it. It just sounds so damned good. Can't quite believe I am moving this bass on, as it is one of the most incredible sounding basses I have ever played. The solid maple body and 3-piece laminated wenge neck give it such a rigidity and resonance it's just so punchy and modern. The thing is that I'm just not getting on with it ergonomically. Can't quite put my finger on it but its just not the shape and playing interaction that I'm wanting. Tried all sorts of strap heights etc, but in the end, it's a superb bass but just not right for me. So .... - 1998 German-made Warwick Fortress - 2 piece maple body - 3 piece laminated Wenge neck - Wizard traditional PJ pickups (these are a bit awesome too). Excellent pickup balance with this set. - Standard MEC 2 band active preamp plus an East parametric mids module - quality flightcase - inset Dunlop straplocks (will come with the strap connections too) - custom rosewood thumbrest I refinished the bass myself. It was originally in a transparent green stain finish from Warwick. THe stain goes really deep, so there is still some slight evidence of green-ness around the pickup routs and at the end grain ends of the bass. Personally I think this gives it character. It certainly is a stunning overall finish IMO. Danish oil and wax. No dings or scratches whatsoever on this body. The headstock has a couple of minor scratches on the back, but Wenge is very, very hard and it stands up very well to the rigours of time. The neck has a small stain to the Wenge in one spot but no dents or scratches. The Just-a-nut (as in virtually all Warwicks of this vintage) has one of the side tangs of the nut broken off. This has absolutely no effect on the function of the nut whatsoever. All the tangs do is to hold the nut in place when all the strings are removed. Currently fitted with a brand new set of D'Addario roundwound nickels, 110-55 (this neck is so strong it was MADE for heavyweight strings !). Price is £495 including courier within mainland UK. Sale wanted really, but might just be tempted by a trade for a 4 string bass .... no Jazzes, nut width 40mm absolute max, PJ or 2 x soapbar pickup config. [url=http://www.ephotobay.com/share/fortress-main.html][/url] [url=http://www.ephotobay.com/share/fortress-front-body-a.html][/url] [url=http://www.ephotobay.com/share/fortress-body-front-b-1.html][/url] [url=http://www.ephotobay.com/share/fortress-rear-body-1.html][/url] [url=http://www.ephotobay.com/share/fortress-body-front-b-1.html][/url] [url=http://www.ephotobay.com/share/fortress-main-b.html][/url] [url=http://www.ephotobay.com/share/fortress-case.html][/url] [url=http://www.ephotobay.com/share/fortress-neck-rear.html][/url] [url=http://www.ephotobay.com/share/fortress-hstock-rear.html][/url] [url=http://www.ephotobay.com/share/fortress-hstock-front.html][/url] [url=http://www.ephotobay.com/share/fortress-endgrain-b.html][/url] [url=http://www.ephotobay.com/share/fortress-endgrain-a.html][/url]
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Warwick LX 4 relisted yet again
hamfist replied to inthedoghouse's topic in eBay - Weird and Wonderful
I suspect his postage is simply to dissuade the huge number of messages he must have had previously about "will you courier ?". I can understand where he' coming from. -
THat looks like a nice body, made from a single piece of Ash. However, I have never seen pickups with that shape either. My guess is that you will need to re-rout the pickup holes to fit another size/shape of pickup. If you do that for pickups which have a bigger overall size than the current routs, that would look the neatest, although you would still be left with the pickup ring screw holes showing. Your other option is to rout the holes for whatever pickups you want and then add a tasteful smallish scratchplate to cover any untidiness left in the routing/screw holes. That would be my choice. A nice STingray-type scratchplate (in dark tort) would look lovely on that body.
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[quote name='Jenty' timestamp='1408352517' post='2529160'] Shame they aren't for 4string. [/quote] I'm sure you could use them for 4 string, as I'm sure they will be ceramic bar magnet-based. You might need to enlarge the pickup routs though. -
Oooooh, she's gorgeous.
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Ibanez SR series: anyone tried a pickup modification?
hamfist replied to Spoombung's topic in Bass Guitars
You've obviously only played the cheapies. The higher quality ones (i.e. the premium and prestige lines) are awesome basses. -
The THunder 1A is basically a Fender Precision with an active preamp. You will never achieve anything other than very old school slap tones with it. You cannot escape the pickup configuration it has. "Slappers" tend to choose either Musicman stingray pickup basses (so a single pickup moved towards the bridge compared to a precision), or a bass with two pickups which, when blended give a nice bright mid-scooped sound, which is what most folks are looking for when they slap. There is no reason you cannot add a bridge Jazz pickup to your Westone, then you can have either pickup soloed or blend the two. You will have a huge number of extra tones available to you that way, including a much brighter, mid-scooped slap-friendly tone. The thunder 1A's are very mod-friendly and have huge control cavities for extra switches and pots etc. Here's a couple of Thunders I have modded in similar ways ..... [url=http://www.ephotobay.com/share/wt-a.html][/url] [url=http://www.ephotobay.com/share/gt-main-b.html][/url] [url=http://www.ephotobay.com/share/westone-pj-green-a.html][/url] THe Thunder body neck heel slots also take standard Fender necks (although you will need to move the bridge back a bit to compensate for the two fewer frets) so that is another way you can mod your THunder in the future if that interests you. The woods and construction of these MIJ THunders is really excellent and I think you would struggle to buy anything new for £500 these days which is of the same standard. Modern manufacturing methods simply cut all sorts of corners in terms of materials quality to bring prices down.
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Still available. -
[quote name='6feet7' timestamp='1407702512' post='2523217'] Trade plus some cash for a modified MIM Fender 51 Mike Dirnt 2006 51 Precision with a J pickup added? I can drive to Southamton so no postage; [/quote] Sorry friend. The nut width (40.4mm I believe) will just be a smidge too wide for me. 40mm is my absolute maximum, and I prefer narrower.
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I Like that. A lot.
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Hmmm. neither of those trades tickle me in the right place I'm afraid. A trade would have to be something pretty special to tempt me I think. Unusual is good !
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now SOLD Price now £495 (or £435 without the East mids module) I have toyed a few times with selling this bass, but changed my mind. The reason is that it is just so well made and so incredibly easy to play. Ultimately, though, for me this bass is just a little too "funk" and not quite enough" rock" for me, tonally. I think this is down to the reverse configuration of the P pickup. Traditional P configurations give me what I'm wanting. This is not a bass I'd want to reroute and stick a pickuguard on either to allow the traditional P format, so it is up for sale to some lucky chap or chappess. OK, the basics are .... - 1996 Japanese-made, premium line Ibanez SR1300PM. - Paduak top and bottom, with a mahogany centre. - neck is wenge and bubinga and is of standard SR dimensions. Fretboard is Wenge. This is very significantly better than current Ibanez premium line necks IMO - Hipshot detuner installed on the E string - Pickups are a tonerider jazz bridge and a Wilkinson Precision pickup. Do not scoff at these. They are a magnificent match for this bass. Pickup balance is very good with this setup. - preamp is a Probass stinger plus an East parametric mids module. So controls are fairly standard ... volume, pickup balance, bass, treble and mids (stacked pot for frequency and gain). - Fitted with Dunlop "invisible" straplocks and the bass will come with the fittings for your strap. - Also comes with a nice hard case. Protective but not too huge or heavy. - Body refinished in Danish oil and wax. I cannot stress how incredible and easy this bass is to play. Also light, of course. Balances beautifully. The only real negative to the bass is a couple of blemishes on the headstock, both of which can be seen on the picture. A ding on the top edge and a paint touch-up just above the truss rod cover. This bass is immaculately set-up. The richness of the mids from this bass is magnificent. The lower mids in particular punch through with real authority. I know I will miss this one, but I'm such a tart with basses, I've already had this far longer than most others. Considering the absolutely terrible state of the used bass market currently, the price is now £495 posted to your mainland UK address. I will post abroad, contact me for shipping costs. Any trial is welcome. I'm near Southampton. I would sell for £435 without the East mids module. A staggeribly high quality bass for the money. Looking for a straight sale really, although could possibly be tempted by a trade for a quality 4 string fretted bass, nut width 40mm or less, PJ or 2 x soapbar setup. [url=http://www.ephotobay.com/share/sr1300pm-001.html][/url] [url=http://www.ephotobay.com/share/sr1300pm-body-front.html][/url] [url=http://www.ephotobay.com/share/sr1300pm-custom-made.html][/url] [url=http://www.ephotobay.com/share/sr1300pm-case.html][/url] [url=http://www.ephotobay.com/share/sr1300-fretboard.html][/url] [url=http://www.ephotobay.com/share/sr1300-hstock-rear.html][/url] [url=http://www.ephotobay.com/share/sr1300-b-rear-a.html][/url] [url=http://www.ephotobay.com/share/sr1300-b-rear-body.html][/url]
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I like them a lot when new. Plenty of bite and presence. However, they can go dead quicker than some other strings sometimes.
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[url="http://www.gumtree.com/p/for-sale/warwick-streamer-bass-std/1075944665"]http://www.gumtree.com/p/for-sale/warwick-streamer-bass-std/1075944665[/url] "only" a standard, but still a lot of bass for the money. Other end of the country for me though.
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[quote name='Mobiless' timestamp='1407020334' post='2516773'] I would, but I doubt he'll respond in sunday. [/quote] You might be surprised. I have received a few emails "out of hours" from him. His customer service is excellent. Anyway, sorry I can't help you with your query. No doubt John will help you today if you contact him.
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Rubbing down the current finish, staining with whatever colour wood dye you like, then doing a Danish oil & wax finish over the top would be much much easier. Shouldn't take more than 3 or 4 days either. I use the B&Q Colron stains and Danish oil and it is excellent. For wax, always Briwax.
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Get a Tonerider set. Seriously, as good as anything out there. I find that a lot of "good" Jazz pickup sets fall down with the solo sound of the neck pickup. The Tonerider neck pickup is particularly impressive IMO.
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I have a CWGP Jazz neck and it is excellent in every way. I'd say the finish, fretwork and general construction seem a small step above the MM necks. I've been really, really happy with mine anyway. Personally, I would buy CWGP instead of an MM neck if I need another in the future.
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up -
[quote name='Jus Lukin' timestamp='1406743969' post='2514349'] I remember hearing about some special heater to keep the temp consistent or something, but it obviously isn't that big of a deal! [/quote] The key thing is to keep the wax away from any flame. A special electric heater to heat up the wax to a controlled 65 degrees, or whatever, and no more is ideal. However, I have found that using a large saucepan half full with water and heating that up on the hob (to about 60-70 degrees), then having your wax in a bowl resting in the water worked just fine. Just heat it up slowly. Overheating the wax will make it significantly more flammable. Take your time and all will be fine.
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SOLD Highest quality Musicman pickup, alnico magnets. Delano MC4 AL. The "Delano" logo on the front is wearing off, but apart from that it is in excellent condition. £55 posted or exchange for half decent PJ set (needs to be the "long" type J bridge pickup). I keep trying and trying to like Stingrays and MM pickups, but they are just not "me". I'm a PJ guy through and through it seems. The pickup is currently installed in ..... [url=http://www.ephotobay.com/share/westone-ray-body-front.html][/url] [url=http://www.ephotobay.com/share/delano.html][/url]
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hmmmm, maybe a T-40 project, with a body reshape to take off a pound of wood might be worth thinking about ! -
Repotting your own pickups is a piece of cake. Here's a copy and paste of a recent description I posted elsewhere. I've done 3 or 4 pickups like this now. All with excellent results. "I melted up a couple of big candles and some beeswax in a glass bowl. I had the glass bowl sitting in a large saucepan half full of water .... melted wax is flammable and you need to be careful how much heat you give it access to. So melt the wax slowly in that type of setup. Only heat until all the wax is melted then turn the heat off. Most wax melts at about 60 degrees Centigrade, so you don't need to boil the water. Suspend your pickup (not including the pickup cover ideally) by string and lower it into the wax. Leave it there for about 20 minutes. You will see lots of bubbles rising from it as wax replaces the air spaces in the pickup. Change the pickup's orientation once or twice during the process. When bubbles no longer rise, or after about 20 mins remove the pickup with the string and gently wipe it down and let it cool. Job done. Another caution is to be fairly careful with the windings of the pickup as if you break them the pickup will become useless. "