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hamfist

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Everything posted by hamfist

  1. hamfist
    Colron natural Danish Oil, from B&Q is the stuff you need. It's a piece of cake to work with and gives a great, durable finish. make sure it's the "natural" version with no stain in. I have done one maple neck and several other wood bodies with this. The maple neck darkened a fraction, but very minimally. I don't think you will get anything which will not darken it at all. It was a great finish for the neck BTW. I did a thin Briwax coating over it. It gave a lovely satin, "high quality" feel to it.
  2. hamfist
    A "these are awesome" bump from me. Mine's going nowhere ! GLWTS
  3. hamfist
    [quote name='Andyjr1515' timestamp='1397974056' post='2429049'] If it disappears with water I would think it will also disappear with tru oil. Try a little in a non obvious place...you can always sand it off again. [/quote] Good advice. If the tru-oiled bit does still show the dust in the grain you could literally hose the body down using a good water pressure. You'll need to let the body fully dry out afterwards for a few days but it might do the trick.
  4. hamfist
    Coolio. Enjoy ! Fiddling around with amps is fun. Never played a 3Pro myself but the design of the tube gain control seems very odd and counter-intuitive. Good old Ampeg !
  5. hamfist
    [quote name='Woodinblack' timestamp='1397899495' post='2428309'] Agree with above, it is snake oil. Just replacing the wiring loom will almost certainly make no difference unless there is something wrong with the one you have in the first place. If you do have something wrong, then it is very simple to fix it, there is nothing complicated to be found inside the wiring of a guitar. [/quote] Agreed. It's the values of the pots and caps that are key. Their quality will only really affect how long they are likely to last. I also agree with Japanaxe that the taper on many cheaper pots is not as predictable as on many more expensive ones. If you are looking for a RATM tone use 500K pots IMO. You're looking for a bright top end so the higher the pot value the less top end is rolled off. 500K seems about right for what you are trying to achieve, although it does depend on all sorts of factors to do with your signal chain too.
  6. hamfist
    up
  7. hamfist
    Also remember that the ATK line have really wide nut widths. I can't get on with them at all.
  8. hamfist
    SOLD. 7 minutes. Beedster wins !
  9. hamfist
    It is with a slightly heavy heart I am placing this up for sale, as I have put a lot of time and love into building it. However, I am simply wandering away from my love of P basses at the moment as they are just not fitting in to my current musical projects as well as other tones. I suspect I could split it and sell the parts for more but this bass works so well as a whole I would prefer to keep it together. So, its a P bass, with ...... - A new Fender-licenced Mighty Mite Jazz neck, with new Wilkinson tuners, Genuine Fender decal. - Body is two-piece swamp ash, with a light antique pine stain to enhance the grain. Finished with a Danish oil and wax finish. Immaculate. Small battery cavity on the rear. - extra P pickup. neck pickup is a Duncan SPB-3, bridge pickup is a Wilkinson one. - Control cavity is routed larger to accommodate extra electronics. - Probass Stinger preamp, which I think goes very well with P pickups. - MIA Fender neck plate - custom tort scratchplate. - Bridge is a very solid Matsumoku-made Fender-type. - Controls are ... pots for volume, bass and treble. Mini-toggles for battery on/off and pickup selection (front or back. There is a large un-musical mid-scoop if you blend two P pickups in these positions so that is not an option on this bass - could easily be changed though). This bass is immaculate. There are no scratches or dings to the neck or body at all. The bridge is 30 years old but still in great condition. Really beautiful looking bass, and plays as good as it looks. Completely knocks the spots off any squire or MIM Fender IMO. £265 posted to you in a hardcase within mainland UK. May trade for 4 string Jazz or soapbar-equipped bass. 40mm nut or less. [url=http://www.ephotobay.com/share/ash-p-body.html][/url] [url=http://www.ephotobay.com/share/ash-p-full-body.html][/url]
  10. hamfist
    [quote name='krysh' timestamp='1397750856' post='2427102'] btw, this is how the zebra pilots sounds with fender 9050l flats (both pickups full, tone -30%, if I remember correctly): [media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ddWCbT7cIdo[/media] [/quote] THat sounds good. All passive, right ?
  11. hamfist
    [quote name='KingBollock' timestamp='1397725579' post='2426755'] I was going to suggest a second P, but I noticed you have one in your sig. So, while I have no experience of them, something I might consider would be a stacked Jazz with a coil tap for extra versatility. [/quote] Yes, the bass is currently set up as a double P, and I have tried double P's in several different spacings and configurations. Just looking to try something a bit different [quote name='ead' timestamp='1397738364' post='2426961'] How about an MM type p/up? If you got one of the 4-wire versions (or is it 5 wires with the earth) you could have a micro switch for series/parallel/single coil. [/quote] I've done a couple of MM/P's. However, I am wanting rather a "thinner" sound than a MM pickup produces (and it's single coil option would be just too thin to match with the P). I am thinking that Krysh's suggestion of something like a big split might be exactly what I am looking for. Anybody else have any experience of the Bartolini's and their possible output compared to my hot P pickup ?
  12. hamfist
    [quote name='krysh' timestamp='1397720682' post='2426713'] well here you go: send me a pm for my adress! [/quote] Cool ! one thousand smackeroos are on their way to you ! Many thanks.
  13. hamfist
    [quote name='HowieBass' timestamp='1397685819' post='2426588'] The J&D basses pictured have 21 fret necks (Fender/Squier usually have 20 frets) so I'd suspect not. [/quote] Ah OK. However, the P's linked to in the OP certainly still have 20 frets. The neck heel width certainly is a bit of info I would like to know.
  14. hamfist
    [quote name='krysh' timestamp='1397682160' post='2426532'] they blend perfectly, work ace together. [/quote] Cool ! One more question.... I can't see your profile pic in any detail at all. How far back from the P is your Big Split ? If you could measure the distance from pickup to pickup centre and post it here I will send you a cheque for £1000 !
  15. hamfist
    [quote name='krysh' timestamp='1397681011' post='2426516'] I have Nordstand P with Nordstrand Bigsplit at the bridge in my 2 guild pilots and this combination is killer! (see profile pic) [/quote] Interesting ! How well do the two pickups blend ? I am mainly looking for a pickup to blend with the P, rather than one to solo in the bridge position.
  16. hamfist
    Does anyone know if these J&D basses will take a standard Fender replacement neck ? If not, could someone measure their J&D bass's maximum neck heel width please.
  17. hamfist
    Just mulling things around really. I have a bass with a P pickup (it's an SPB-3 and I want to keep that one in there) in the standard P spot and I'd like to pop something a bit different in the bridge position. I've tried all sorts of PJ's and I was wanting to try something different than just adding a J. It's an active bass BTw. I was sort of considering a Bartolini MK4 but have no idea of how it might match, or blend with, the P. Googling has left me still in the dark about the MK4's output compared to a hot P pickup. Anyone have any thoughts about that ? Or suggestions of other pickups I might try in that bridge position ? BTW, I've tried a couple of P/MM builds and even though it has it's merits it's not something I want to do again for the moment.
  18. hamfist
    now ...... SOLD pending final payment. Awesome Earthbound Audio Supercollider Beast Fuzz pedal. This is a Muff-based circuit with extra depth and mids controls. Also has 2 x extra footswitchable oscillators for feedback fun. Find Earthbound Audio by searching Facebook. Also some great Youtube demos out there. Powered by the standard 9V Boss-type PSU (not supplied). I bought this recently from Wud to compare with my Team Awesome Fuzz Machine as I am always interested in and searching for the "perfect" fuzz. Anyway, it was a close thing but I think the TAFM works just that slightly bit better with my rig. This Supercollider very much reminds me tonally of the W&C PIckle Pie B I used to have .... basically a souped up and much more flexible uber-Muff. A great fuzz, worthy of any pedalboard. Decently low noise floor too. Unfortunately I only use a fuzz on one song with the band so I think having more than one is a bit silly. The TAFM stays and this one goes. £109 posted to you in mainland UK. I will happily post abroad, but contact me first for costs. [url=http://www.ephotobay.com/share/supercollider-a.html][/url] [url=http://www.ephotobay.com/share/supercollider-b.html][/url]
  19. hamfist
    [quote name='Guinness21' timestamp='1397191325' post='2421599'] Does anybody know if the knightfall/knightfall 66 are ok with active basses? I play a stngray, and I play mostly hard rock and metal. The other pedal I'm looking at is the vt bass. I know I can get this sound using the vt - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R_ONEaEg5JI. I'm also fairly sure this pedal can get rhcp sounds too if I need. So do I get the vt or could a version of the knightfall do a better job? [/quote] The knightfall plays very well with active basses As for your RATM and RHCP tones, I'd say the Knightfall is probably not the pedal you are looking for. It has far too much depth and gooey goodness going on. It's more of a vintagey vibe. I'd be looking more at a Darkglass B3K or B7K for what you seem to be looking for personally.
  20. hamfist
    Luvly
  21. hamfist
    Conductive metal tape does the job. Even though it has been mentioned already I can't emphasize enough how important it is to get stuff with CONDUCTIVE adhesive. If you don't your efforts will be useless.
  22. hamfist

    Feedback for Wud

    hamfist replied to Wud's topic in Feedback

    Bought a pedal from Woody.. Exactly as described, packed VERY well, posted very quickly. Perfect really. Easy, easy deal. Thanks very much !!
  23. hamfist
    Your amp's valve is in the preamp. THese types of valve can last for decades and only need to be replaced if faulty. Having said that, if you are careful changing them there is no harm in trying different ones in search of different tones. I believe your amp's valve is a 12ax7, of which there are huge numbers of different types to potentially try out.
  24. hamfist
    [quote name='mik900' timestamp='1397134904' post='2421006'] My Ampeg SVT3 pro is about 7 years old. I gig every week with it, I can't say I notice any problems, but should I bother with getting a re valve done or wait until I hear any issues. [/quote] No need for a revalve. Your 3Pro only has pre-amp valves, which only need to be replaced if they go faulty. It is power amp valves which have a much more limited lifetime. Many, many amps built in the 60's still have all their original preamp valves as they can last many decades.
  25. hamfist
    [quote name='hamfist' timestamp='1397151775' post='2421252'] If you measure the current BB line-up. THe pickup is a little closer to the neck than for a Fender P. My ears hear the difference. [/quote] And just to clarify I do mean the pickup to 12th fret distance.
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