hamfist

[quote name='Manton Customs' timestamp='1394749767' post='2394906'] I cant speak for the bass posted as there may be a slightly different process there, (I suspect grain filling) though I have achieved very similar results by dyeing and sanding back. Sand up through the grits (raise the grain multiple times if you're using water based dye), apply dye to the whole body then sand back to a level where you want it. The black will stay in the deep grain but be removed from the surface. Experiment and see what you like, its easy to remove if you get it wrong . [/quote] THanks, much appreciated. I think I will definitely have a go at this.

[quote name='ead' timestamp='1394746485' post='2394835'] This is the dirty ash finish on my ACG bass, but not sure how it's done. Maybe Alan could give you a steer? http://www.acguitars.co.uk/acg_admin/wordpress/portfolio/2881/ [/quote] Yes that is exactly the look I had in mind. [quote name='Manton Customs' timestamp='1394746304' post='2394829'] You have a few options, if you want a smooth finish with no visible (edit: open) pores the best option is to grain fill with a black filler. Dyeing and sanding back is also an option but then you will still have a visible pores (black ones!), which can look cool if that is what you're after. It depends if you're after a more natural look where you can feel the grain, or a glass smooth one...if the latter grain fill . [/quote] I'm not looking for a glass smooth look. I like the wood to have more of a natural feel to it. So, simply dyeing with a dark dye and then sanding back should give me the dyed grain figuring (I guess where the dye is taken deeper) and lighter patches inbetween ? Would it be critical what type of wood dye I used ? I've used the Colron refined wood dyes (from B&Q) before on a mahogany P body before to good effect. I still have a load of it left in a dark mahogany colour, which might be nice to emphasize the grain of the ash.

I've just bought an unfinished swamp ash precision body with beautiful grain figuring. I'm going to do a Danish oil and wax finish on it. However, due to the nice grain, I'd quite like to enhance the figuring with some dark dye somehow. I'm pretty sure this is possible but can't remember the details of where I read/saw about it. Any ideas ?

[quote name='neepheid' timestamp='1394616905' post='2393274'] BRAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAINS! [/quote] Thunderbirds are GGGGGGOOOOOOOOOOO !!!!

[quote name='sblueplanet' timestamp='1394568849' post='2392900'] Is the wiring block used to connect the pickup any particular type or ampage? [/quote] The currents involved are so low one doesn't need to worry about it. Any wires, so long as the connections are secure will do.

[quote name='LukeFRC' timestamp='1394539838' post='2392369'] leeds gumtree... [/quote] Yes, that was actually the reason for my recent interest. Thanks to all for their replies BTW. I think I'm going to hold fire at this time though.

It looks like ash to be sure. However I've just googled "red alder grain" and it's clear that red alder has a much wider grain pattern than "normal" alder and looks very similar to ash. So if the Fender spec says "red alder" I'd tend to believe it. Both it and ash have lovely grain patterns though.

[quote name='gary mac' timestamp='1394357909' post='2390528'] http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OOLvGYHemPo there you go [/quote] THanks, I shall have a listen in a while. Anyone's else have any thoughts or personal experiences to share ?

[quote name='Old Horse Murphy' timestamp='1394360022' post='2390554'] It was built to last nd weighed in at just over 9lbs. [/quote] Hmmmm . 9lbs. That's not too bad at all really.

Just interested in these really. What I know already .... - they're heavy - great build quality, MIA - versatile tones. However, I don't know what kind of tones we're talking about here. Tell me more.

[quote name='discreet' timestamp='1394236601' post='2389540'] Thanks for this - I'm very glad you think so, because I've got a GK MB500 Fusion incoming. [/quote] Cool, I think you'll be impressed. My only issue with GK class D amps is that a few individual units have a slightly higher noise floor (from new) than I am happy with. If you buy one of those (new) you can always return it for another though.

[quote name='dannybuoy' timestamp='1394310026' post='2390233'] I can imagine that the Stinger would sound better in a band mix though since it's less scooped. [/quote] That Stinger preamp sounds amazing with a P. Just the right frequencies boosted for me.

[quote name='discreet' timestamp='1394184362' post='2388749'] Thanks for this - hmm I like mids, too. I notice you have a GK MB500 in your sig - what's that like, then? [/quote] GK MB500 = great amp ! I've been through so many amps it's ridiculous. I've found the MB500 to be powerful & punchy. Simply a great full range amp. I don't "get" the GK voice to be honest. It sounds fairly PA-like and flat to me, but still with ample EQ adjustment. In fact, one of the things I really like about it is how powerful the EQ is, and yet still easily useable. Through my Genz Neo NX2 2x12 I could not dream of tolerating the sheer volume on stage if I ever got it up to noon on the master volume. About 10.30 is about the farthest I've had it up, and that was is a big venue, no PA support. I find the MB 500 simply faithfully amplifies what I put through it. Thus I can do tonal tweaking on my pedalboard and I actually hear the difference through this rig. Many amps seem to "take over "the sound rather too much for me and whatever you put in to them, they can sound much the same out the other end. Note ... the NX2 cab is very much responsible for this too. The MB500 and Genz NX2 cab work very well together.

To answer the original question, to counter lots of happy owners who ARE happy with the streamliner. I sold mine because of it's inherent sound ... ie. it's big heavy bottom, and inherent mid scoop. Yes you can get it almost flat by reducing the bass big time and either scooping it's 220Hz mids OR boosting it's 600Hz mids. But for me that is still too scooped. I like mids and this amp simply doesn't deliver in that area for me. From my memory my cab at the time was a Genz 8x10 XB3, certainly not a mid-shy cab. The EQ allows you to boost cut either 220Hz, 600Hz or 1500Hz on it's mids control. However, if you boost one of them, I still notice the gap elsewhere. For many owners this simply isn't an issue as they are looking for a different sound but for me it was a deal-breaker.

Sold a neck to Adam. Easy, easy deal. Great comms from him. Thoroughly recommended chap to deal with.

Definitely a darkish tort plate needed.

These are mine [url=http://www.ephotobay.com/share/bitsa-main.html][/url] [url=http://www.ephotobay.com/share/w-body.html][/url] I've experimented with a fair few double P postions and I pretty much always keep the neck pickup in the Fender P sweetspot (mid spot of the pickups 11.5" from the 12th fret) as I love that sound and it's one I always want available on any of my basses. As for the 2nd P, I'll never put one nearer the neck as I wouldn't want a rounder, deeper tone than the traditional Fender P sound, so the 2nd one will always go nearer the bridge. And then, you have to think what you are trying to achieve. Personally I always find I gravitate to tones produced by a single pickup. I know others love blended pickup tones but, for me, I always like to keep the mid complexity that a solo pickup tends to keep. So, for me, I put my 2nd P straight behind the neck pickup. On one bass, literally touching it. THis is pretty much where the MM stingray sweetspot is, and a P pickup there certainly is in the same universe as a Stingray but definitely has it's own thing going on. Blending these two pickups is fairly pointless though, as they are too close together and do not produce a particularly musical tone when blended. However, if you are going for more of a J bass blended pickup tone, but raunchier, put the bridge P back in the 60's Jazz bridge pickup spot. Maybe even the 70's position. It'll sound poor on it's own (IMO) but will blend very well with the neck pickup. If I was putting a P pickup that far back I would personally reverse it and have the DG portion further from the bridge than the EA. With a P pickup, the nearer it is to the bridge, the more you will notice the tonal and volume differences between the two sections of the pickup (which personally I find fairly minimal up in the Fender precision position) If at all possible, try and play these two different takes on a double P because they really are very different animals.

Nice work sir.

Is that alder ? Oh, and as everyone is throwing in their personal ideas for the finish, I say, leave it natural. Can't beat seeing the real wood IMO.

[quote name='OBT1000_S12' timestamp='1393764273' post='2384062'] I have a couple of screwdrivers and a tape measure [/quote] Get some sellotape and a bit of blu-tack as well and you've got enough to start building your own amp there !

I expect you'd have to have it specially made. Anyone with a Dremel, a few grades of sandpaper and an ounce of common sense can make a very nice scratchplate BTW. I'm surprised more of you don't have a go at it yourselves.

Cool. I'm liking the blue very much, but not sure about the gold scratchplate. How about a black one instead ?

Sold a pickup to Morten. He was a great guy to deal with, and communicated excellently (in faultless English) all the way. Easy, easy deal. Thanks.