hamfist
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Everything posted by hamfist
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[quote name='Ou7shined' timestamp='1390486728' post='2345937'] Reshape and refret. I had no tools back then so it was all hand worked. This how it looked when I bought it. [/quote] Cool !
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[quote name='Notoriousm' timestamp='1390504611' post='2346211'] Its a standard USA model P. [/quote] OK, it's going to be solid wood, of a decent type at least. However, it will almost certainly be 2, or possibly more, pieces of wood glued together and you have no guarantee that it will have a decent grain. As RhysP says .. the nicer pieces get saves for the natural and translucent finishes instruments. However....... I say what the hell. Strip it down to get what you want. It'll probably be a half decent piece. And you can always stain it a darker colour to cover it up a bit if the grain is not to your liking. Personally, I think an oil and wax finish makes almost any wood look gorgeous. And if it really doesn't look good, it's not the hardest thing in the world to get it re-finished to a colour that you want. I say basses are for individualising. Don't follow the crowd. Be an individual !
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[quote name='Ou7shined' timestamp='1390472945' post='2345713'] I bought a similar beat up old Encore to the one above and turned it into this.... [/quote] Lovely job ! new neck, or re-shaped headstock ?
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[b][u]SALE AGREED[/u][/b] As per title. One Ashdown Mi12 cab. Easy one hand lift. 8 ohm. 250W RMS handling. Excellent condition. Just a few small scuffs. Bought for a specific purpose. Simply don't need now. £135 collected from me in the Southampton area. or £152 couriered to you in mainland UK. [url="http://www.ephotobay.com/share/mi12-a.html"][/url] [url="http://www.ephotobay.com/share/mi12-top.html"][/url] [url="http://www.ephotobay.com/share/mi12-right.html"][/url] [url="http://www.ephotobay.com/share/mi12-rear.html"][/url] [url="http://www.ephotobay.com/share/mi12-bottom.html"][/url] -
I'm very much into modding, routing etc etc my own basses. Get yourself a Dremel 3000 and the routing accessories and you're away. £50 expenditure and you then have the kit to do anything like that free of charge ! You can make you're own scratchplates with a Dremel too. It really isn't that difficult.
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Excellent. Good result.
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SOLD EMG 35P4 pickup, in excellent nick. Pickup dimensions are - 89 x 38 x 19 mm It's an EMG Precision pickup in a 35-sized housing. Details et ... http://www.emgpickups.com/bass/extended-series/4-string/35p4.html Comes with full wiring loom, including volume pot, tone pot, output jack and battery clip. Also, all connecting cables. All you have to do is add a battery. No soldering required. It's all either soldered already or has an EMG quick clip connector end. £34 including postage to mainland UK. -
Did a pickups trade with Dave. Went as smooth as silk. Great chap to deal with ! Thanks mate.
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thinking of selling my Hartke and trying Genz Benz
hamfist replied to clashcityrocker's topic in Amps and Cabs
[quote name='clashcityrocker' timestamp='1390288682' post='2343517'] I'll a proper play with the eq tomorrow, it's normally pretty flat [/quote] From memory, the Hartke amps use a Fender tonestack. So (I'm sure you're already aware) that "flat EQ" is somewhere about 2,10,2 (B,M,T) on your Bass, mids and treble knobs. -
[quote name='Ou7shined' timestamp='1390342220' post='2344394'] I have around 30 basses now and wasn't surprised at the last head-count when I discovered that I own more Ps (split and single) than any other configuration. I guess I'm a bit of a fanboy ... although when I build for myself I usually now plop an MFD bucker in the P postion (along with some passive black magic trickery) rather than a regular split P - unless I am going with some other concept. While keeping the EA section in it's correct (Fender) position and switching the DG to the other side I find very little (if any) change to the inherent P tone. It also somehow seems to make more sense to me to have the treble side of the pup that way round on a bass instrument. I do find however that the placement of the MM pup has to be exactly where Leo placed it otherwise it just doesn't cut it sonically. It lacks the basic harmonic nuances which make it Stingrayish.... I'm also a major 'ray fanboy. Yes that bass is mine. It's affectionately know as the the Pingray. That's genuine 'ray pup in there too. Here's another one of my experiments in reverse P-ism.... This is my current main player and produces a surprisingly vast array of differing tones from it's passive circuit. [/quote] THankyou for your comprehensive answer. I, and I'm sure many others, would be very interested to know more about the passive electronics you use, if you are able to share the information. I'm currently going through an "active phase" but am always open to passive ideas if they get the job done without batteries and preamps.
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[quote name='Ou7shined' timestamp='1390256916' post='2343346'] Actually the MM and the DG side of the P pups partially occupy each others territory. In order to keep the exact MM sweet spot I found the best compromise was to reverse the P. [/quote] I prefer to keep the P in it's exact sweetspot, and put up with the MM a couple of mm nearer the neck. I haven't tried the exact arrangement you have but it looks like the D and G strings when soloing the P pickup will sound significantly different to a std Precision. That part of the P pickup looks at least 5cm nearer the neck than std. Are you a fan of the standard Precision layout ? and do you notice the difference in use when soling the P pickup on your bass (I assume that is yours) compared to a std P ?
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[quote name='Si600' timestamp='1390250050' post='2343217'] Some of you have said to get a hot pickup to better match the existing Fender standard P one. Er, what do you mean by that, and how do I tell whether it's hot enough? [/quote] Hot = higher output. If your bridge pickup is too weedy in output it will be completely dominated by the P pickup at the neck. THe Dimarzio UltraJazz Jazz bridge pickup is generally accepted as one of the very best bridge pickups to ad to a P to make a PJ. Anyway, my recommendation is to add a MM pickup, but right up against the P pickup. This is where the MM sweetspot is. If you put a MM pickup nearer the bridge is will tend to sound weak and honky. It will NOT sound like a STingray for sure. I'm talking about something like this ... [url=http://www.ephotobay.com/share/green-w-body.html][/url] I have tried loads of different PJ's and twin P basses. My favourite overall is the MM/P combination with the MM butted right up to the P.
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[quote name='bassvox' timestamp='1390150595' post='2341974'] Would you still be willing to sell these at this price? thanks Phil [/quote] Yes, until they are actually sold on ebay, they are still available on this forum at £85 posted -
Thomann selling Harley Benton basses as 'Decoration only'
hamfist replied to Annoying Twit's topic in Bass Guitars
I guess they are also the type of thing some pubs and clubs might like to have hung up on their walls. -
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SOLD SOLD I wish I could keep this, but I have 3 basses and I just can't justify keeping them all. Oh, and I really do need a new electro-acoustic 6 string. So, anyway, putting this out there to see if anyone wants to take over ownership of this absolutely cracking bass. It's a 1982, Matsmoku-made Westone Thunder 1A, which I have seriously upgraded in many departments. It now has a Wilkinson Musicman Stingray pickup (wired in parallel) right next to the Wilkinson Alnico Precision pickup. If you want a pickup in the MM sweetspot, in a bass with a Precision pickup too, you need to put it right up next to the P pickup. It's a great combination ... very equivalent output from each pickup, and they blend very nicely too. It also has a brand new 18V Artec 3 band active preamp, which included a parametric mids control installed. The mini-toggle switch is to switch off the battery, so that you can leave it plugged in without using up battery power if you want. Controls are Vol, Blend, bass, treble, mid frequency and mids level. The finish on the bass, I have converted to an oil and wax finish and rather nice it looks too. IMO, much nicer than the std clear lacquered finish that Westone used. The grain on most of these Thunders is actually rather nice and the oil and wax brings it out so much better. The neck is absolutely standard Westone, with it's brass nut (which the earlier ones had). Nut width is 40mm and the neck has a feel to it similar to that of a Yamaha BB424 I'd say in general dimensions. Right inbetween a J and a P shape. Bridge is original and is brass. The bass plays beautifully and has a great woody and punchy tone. Being the age it is, it has a few dings. The only ones really mentioning are obvious in the photos and are a couple of scratches on the front of the headstock. And also on the body just below the neck socket between the neck and the lower horn (completely invisible in use). There are a few other nicks and scuffs here and there but overall the bass looks pretty classy. Currently strung with a brand new set of nickel roundwound 105-45's. Price is £245 posted to you in mainland UK, or £230 collected from me in the Southampton area. Sorry, no trades unless you happen to have a really nice electro-acoustic guitar. I don't think whoever buys this will be disappointed. [url="http://www.ephotobay.com/share/w1-m.html"][/url] [url="http://www.ephotobay.com/share/w1-a.html"][/url] [url="http://www.ephotobay.com/share/w1-o.html"][/url] [url="http://www.ephotobay.com/share/w1-n.html"][/url] [url="http://www.ephotobay.com/share/w1-j.html"][/url] [url="http://www.ephotobay.com/share/w1-h.html"][/url] [url="http://www.ephotobay.com/share/w1-d.html"][/url] [url="http://www.ephotobay.com/share/w1-e.html"][/url] [url="http://www.ephotobay.com/share/w1-f.html"][/url] [url="http://www.ephotobay.com/share/w1-c.html"][/url] [url="http://www.ephotobay.com/share/w1-i.html"][/url] [url="http://www.ephotobay.com/share/w1-l.html"][/url] [url="http://www.ephotobay.com/share/w1-k.html"][/url] [url="http://www.ephotobay.com/share/w1-g.html"][/url] -
The "traditional" answer on forums such as this is ... buy secondhand. If you know what you are doing and get lucky, you might do well that way. However, the quality of new budget end gear just gets better and better these days. It is certainly not "without doubt" that your best bet is to buy used. It is one opinion though. You can certainly pick up some complete dogs on the used market and that, however, is ..... without doubt. The spec on both basses is just absurdly good for the money for example. The other great thing about buying a new bass online is that you can return it if there is a problem. I have heard very good things about the J&D basses, although have not played one myself. If I were to choose between the two, I would go for the J&D bass for a rock-orientated player (due to the PJ pickups) and the Harley Benton for the more funk/soul R&B type player. Be prepared to have to do a little setting up on either though as budget basses rarely come with any setup (something that is often in common with their more expensive brethren !). Setting up is not beyond anyone who is prepared to do a little research. between
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I love it, but not the colour !
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I have recently learnt to use my new Dremel 3000 for routing. I've been using the Dremel 565 Multipurpose Cutting Kit, a Dremel 654 6.4 mm Straight Bit and a Dremel 650 3.2 mm Straight Bit. THese have been working out really well for me, although it's a good idea to practice on some scrap first to work out the best way to use them. Using these, you would be routing "freehand", but if you mark out your rout carefully and go slow on the routing it can be very successful. If routing out things like pickup cavities, I have been drilling out a large portion of the wood first with my normal electric drill and a large bit, to reduce the volume of wood that I needed to take out with the router. Using the kit I mentioned you can get a cavity about 18mm deep. If you want it a bit deeper you can actually just use one of the general purpose Dremel cutting bits that I got supplied with my Dremel in it's kit (it's the Dremel 561 bit) and use it with the 565 routing attachment. I have routed out up to about 22mm deep cavities with it so far, no problem. For all of these pickup routs I use a large, fine toothed file to get nice straight final edges. Although a sanding block and sandpaper would have the same effect I'm sure. For the "ears" on precision and musicman pickups I have used the Dremel 9.5mm Aluminum Oxide Grinding Stone (932), which came in my kit to get a semi-circular cutout .... works a treat. Just need to be organised, have good light and a steady hand.
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Luvvly. Nice photography too.
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Following on from this thread ..... http://basschat.co.uk/topic/225881-something-a-bit-different-pimped-schecter-004-now-with-white-one-too/ .... where I was trying out different pickguards on my pimped Schecter 004, I have finally settled on a properly made, and snug fitting new Union Jack one. Personally, I think it looks a lot better than the already cut Union flag pickguard which I adapted for this bass to start with. I suspect a lot of you will still dislike it but well.... sod yer ! Here's the obligatory evidence [url=http://www.ephotobay.com/share/004-final-pg-b.html][/url] [url=http://www.ephotobay.com/share/004-final-pg-a.html][/url]
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[quote name='Lewmorg' timestamp='1389446000' post='2334219'] Hi yeah they come on as soon as power is connected but stay all the way up I've rang Thomann who i bought it off and they've told me to return it Cheers! [/quote] Yes, I'm sure Thomann will look after you. Certainly sounds like a faulty one.
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Mine also does the lights lighting up at turn on thing. They then all goes back off within a second or so. Does yours do that ? Not sure why yours has no sound though. I'm guessing you've already had a good fiddle with all the controls.
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I bought a cab from Gareth, collecting it from his house. He was a real Gent, and it was a thoroughly easy and pleasant deal. Thanks mate !
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SALE AGREED EMG PJ set, in black. All excellent. All connectors, pots, battery clip, output jack, screws etc. Only a few months old. very low noise. Works 100% perfectly. All you'll need is some knobs (knobs do NOT come as std with most EMG pickups). £85 posted to your door in mainland UK. [url=http://www.ephotobay.com/share/pj-set-a.html][/url] [url=http://www.ephotobay.com/share/pj-set-b.html][/url] [url=http://www.ephotobay.com/share/pj-set-c.html][/url]