hamfist

[quote name='danbowskill' timestamp='1383902943' post='2270500'] are you going for the 66? [/quote] Nope, just the std Knightfall. I run all my dirt through a clean blend looper so the clean blend bit is sorted already. If I really like it, who knows I might get a 66 later. Tom's advice was that the std tone knob is actually slightly more transparent than the bass/treble arrangement. That's how I understood it anyway. Although the 66's bass/treble arrangement certainly gives an extra variety of tones over the standard tone knob.

Knightfall now ordered for me. I hope it will be as impressive as I'm expecting.

[quote name='lowdowner' timestamp='1383767796' post='2268913'] Got a slight warwick wood look about the body! [/quote] My thoughts too. Is that bubinga ?

If I understand correctly I think what you need is this .... http://www.brightonion.co.uk/products/ABY-Dual-Looper.html

Couldn't resist. NX212T for me too !

[quote name='Mr. Foxen' timestamp='1383408926' post='2264184'] Ideally same as nut, brass shim is pretty available. [/quote] Cool , I'd not have thought it was so easily available, but a quick ebay search shows a multitude of sizes and thicknesses available at very little cost. Thanks !

[quote name='OldG' timestamp='1383390435' post='2263902'] I was perhaps a little unclear in my earlier post...If a nut is cut too low - I prefer to remove the nut and use a shim between nut and neck. Almost invisible and gives you the chance to get it right... [/quote] yes, definitely another option, and one I may consider using. Any thoughts on shim material ?

A cautionary tale ..... In my recent new found confidence at nut-filing , I ended up filing the E slot too low on my main bass. The problem was completely caused by inexperience and not using the right tools. I was using the welding tip cleaners, which are significantly narrower than the E, A and D strings. I ended up filing a "waisted" slot on the E. So the string was sitting on the waist, and I was filing the slot underneath it progressively deeper, but each time I checked the string it was too high because, of course, it was sitting on the waist, not at the bottom of the slot. So once I cut the waist out, the slot was too low ! This would not have happened with the correct size nut files (which I seriously considering buying) which cannot really cut a waisted slot. But also, having done this once, I will not do it again, even using my "incorrect" tools. It's a brass nut, and I have bodged it back up to height with a superglue/kitchen paper mush, which sets amazingly hard. I tried at first with solder (as it is a metal nut) but the solder was too soft. The superglue mush sets much, much harder and seems very firmly attached to the brass. Sonically, I cannot tell the difference but the longevity of the repair is clearly going to be a doubt. I will change the nut at some point. So, the moral of the story is that if you are trying to do the job without the ideal tools, take it very, very slowly, and check that there is no daylight under the string when it is settled in it's slot each time you re-check it. Also, things can be nicely resurrected with superglue and kitchen paper, at least temporarily, if you botch it.

If it's a deep ding, I can't see any other way but filling, sanding and re-lacquering those bits. The negative will be that it is difficult to make it invisible, as I assume you have a natural grained wood finish with clear laquer. Therefore filling a ding with filler takes away the grain. There are ways of imitating a grained finish on these bits of filler but it's not something I've tried. It'll certainly make them impossible to feel, but the invisibility issue may be a problem for you. Not too difficult for a luthier, and maybe even worth doing yourself, depending on your experience at this sort of stuff I guess.

[quote name='Iana' timestamp='1383377529' post='2263688'] There is a very nice looking ae212 in the for sale section... Great cab with a lovely hifi tone and very reasonable price as well [/quote] CN112 - 12kg AE212 - 25kg To battle with a clarinet I know which one I'd choose !

Fuzzrocious Demon or Demon King http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gMqU0Wgbfak or COG Effects Darklighter/Knightfall http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mv0oqDxP6_I THe first is already mine. The second will be my next dirt pedal.

[quote name='ras52' timestamp='1383233701' post='2261931'] Slight hijack: when people speak of front and rear pickups, which is which? I'd refer to them as bridge and neck - or vice versa, I don't know! (On my basses with two pickups, both pickups are on the front - the side with the strings!) [/quote] For pickups front = neck back = bridge

Sold a pedal to Phil. He came and collected it. Thoroughly nice chap. Very easy to deal with.

[quote name='waynepunkdude' timestamp='1383081677' post='2260075'] Gold is the only thing that make sunburst even remotely acceptable. [/quote] Come on sir, I think that's going a bit far. There's nothing that makes sunburst acceptable in any way.

[quote name='xgsjx' timestamp='1383119032' post='2260283'] You might want to keep a dirt pedal as multi units don't seem to be so good at them. [/quote] +1 I have found multi's great for non-dirt effects, but generally very second rate at overdrives and distortions. Although fuzzes seem to be easier to replicate as I have found good fuzzes on a number of multis. Also, to the OP, if running dirt on your amp, you are probably not going to want any filters going before that, as most people like dirt before filters, Decent multi's have FX loops in though, so a dirt pedal or two works well in the FX loop of the multi, using compression before dirt and then filters etc after the loop.

Straightforward deal with Mike. He bought a pickup from me. Superb communication from him throughout. Thoroughly decent chap !

I used one of these a few years back in a guitar pedalboard DI rig I built up and it also worked really really well. It's one of Behringer's really good bits of gear IMO. There really are some gems in amongst much of the rubbish that they put out.

The good thing is that if you f*** it up it's only a minor disaster as the nut is a pretty replaceable item after all. Not like knackering your truss rod or something like that.

[quote name='KiOgon' timestamp='1382972195' post='2258621'] Needle files are great but the small string slots may need some careful attention with something smaller - like welding tip cleaners - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Tip-Cleaner-Needle-file-set-guitar-nut-files-/170996340430?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item27d02d16ce [/quote] Yes, those welding tip cleaners are exactly what I use. For occasional use and a slow, steady technique they are great, and virtually free !

I've recently started working on the nuts on my basses, and have done 3 now. All with various needle files. All very successfully. In fact I have been very pleased with the results. My key bit of advice is take it slow, and do it bit by bit. Also, use 2 layers of insulating tape, or similar, behind the nut to protect the wood. I found using a smaller needle file than the slot still worked find so long as I took it easy and worked the slot wider slowly. Lastly, use an old set of roundwound strings of the size you will be using to finish off each slot by running the string back and forth in the slot just like a "smooth file". That will smooth each slot off to the exact size you will need. As to the angle of the slot, it's difficult to be precise but generally angle the slot back from the front edge, so that the string rests on the exact front of the nut, to get the best intonation from the string. Oh lastly, I'd be wary of trying to get the clearance at the first fret the same as the 2nd fret clearance whilst fretting on the first fret. That leaves no room for the string "settling" into the slot or for slot wear over the years. I'd leave it just a little higher at the first fret myself.

If you like full range, then I'd just use PA amplification. That's what the public hear your bass through. IMO, unless you're playing pretty quietly, you'll need a sub and a decent 12"/15" top for pleasurable on-stage monitoring. I rehearse using a 12" driver PA wedge and it's a great sound. As a wedge I can point it at my ears too. However, with a loud gigging band, on stage, a modern 300W 12" active cab was struggling to provide what I wanted volume-wise on stage. I really did need that sub.