hamfist

[quote name='Ou7shined' timestamp='1380708530' post='2229183'] A 1meg resistor aught to do it [/quote] Ou7shined ...... Outstanding. Thankyou sir !

I've just installed a mini SPDT switch in an active bass on the hot lead of the battery in an active bass. This allows me to keep the lead plugged in but disconnect the battery. Works great but there is, unsurprisingly, sometimes a small pop when I turn it on/off when amplified. not a huge issue but I'd like the switching to be silent if poss. Does my memory serve me rightly in that I just have to put a capacitor of some sort across the contacts on the switch to get rid of the pop ? Electronics gurus, your advice would be welcome. Thanks in advance.

Awesome. I want one !

I prefer playing a low cost (but highish quality) bass which I have modded , painted, tweaked, whatever. I feel more emotionally linked to it. I'd rather play something like that than a new, perfectly formed boutique bass which, for me, I would feel no personal link with, even though it might play and sound perfect. Hard to explain but I hope you understand what I'm on about.

[quote name='Lozz196' timestamp='1380650531' post='2228517'] Has to be fairly low on the E for me, as being rather heavy-handed it booms otherwise but I agree, the height of the pickups really makes a difference. [/quote] +1. Also, with a muscular technique the E string will hit the pickup if it's too high.

[quote name='brensabre79' timestamp='1380544495' post='2226754'] I've noticed there is a camp of Barefaced haters on here, they are definitely in a minority and I cannot say whether it's a justified opinion or not - who knows what experience these people have had (I notice they are being quiet on the subject presently). [/quote] Who are these mysterious BF haters ? I am a regular here and all I see on any BF thread is a bunch of people replying how wonderful they are, [generally ignoring any OP's questions] and being hyper, hyper-sensitive to any perceived criticisms of the brand. note ... the bracketed part is probably not particularly fair but does seem to be partially true. For the record I am neither a hater nor a lover. I have not tried one. Would like to one day, I guess.

If it's MIJ then it's a great price. If not then it's what I'd expect a MIK from that era to go for as a "collection only" listing

[quote name='Fionn' timestamp='1380399933' post='2224875'] I never intended to have a clean-sweep of MXR pedals, but I haven't found a better compressor or envelope filter that theirs either. [/quote] It's weird but I find completely the opposite. I have tried a number of MXR pedals (including all the current bass-orientated ones) and have not liked any of them. There's something that I am looking for in tone that MXR simply are not into. I am not dissing MXR here just commenting on how they are on a different wavelength to me.

I like that !

Bought a pedal from Pablo. It was in excellent condition, exactly as described. Packed beautifully. Pablo is a top man to deal with. Utterly trustworthy. Great comms too. Thanks mate !

[quote name='Dingus' timestamp='1380151501' post='2221697'] Just to be clear, by "dead -spot" you mean a noticably quieter note with less fundamental to it ? And when you say the bass developed a dead- spot, are you sure that the problem wasn't on the bass when you got it and you just didn't notice it? If you could describe the perceived problem a little more specifically that would help clarify things a little. Dead spots can be a bit of a bastard to cure and are not uncommon in the scheme of things, but unless the problem is particulaly chronic, it shouldn't affect the resale value of the bass unduly, unless ,that is ,the dead-spot is due to some kind of extraordinary mechanical or structural flaw in the bass's construction, which is very unlikely if Overwater have serviced it recently . Dead spots, to a greater or lesser extent, are part and parcel of wooden instruments and there is a certain element of let the buyer beware. It might bother the heck out of you, but another player might not even notice it or even care that much. It can be a very subjective kind of fault, again , depending on how extreme the apparent problem is. There can be a bit of a grey are between "fault" and "inconsistancy" in respect of this kind of a thing, and many or even most basses have inconsistancies to them , so you wouldn't neccesarilly be comitting any kind of an underhand or dishonest act in putting the bass up for sale and letting the potential buyer use their best judgement. [/quote] Very good post Dingus

Did you try to lift the combo at all ?

This thread needs bumping ! Newly re-finished Thunder 1A V3 [url=http://www.ephotobay.com/share/thunder-main.html][/url] [url=http://www.ephotobay.com/share/thunder-body-front.html][/url]

[quote name='barkin' timestamp='1380129584' post='2221297'] Ah - yes, I see that now. That T2 looks very nice - don't think I'd pay that much for one though. The refinish on yours looks great. I've thought about doing something similar to my T1, but always decided against it. I've had it for 30 years and, tatty as it is, it still plays great and feels kinda part of me as it is. [/quote] A nice new re-finish and a 30yr old personally road-worn look are both great finishes. I think each finish means more if you've been involved in it yourself, which we both have for our basses !

[quote name='barkin' timestamp='1380121424' post='2221134'] There were at least 4 Thunders. 1, 1a, 2 & 3 Thunder 1 was passive. Mine has brass bridge & nut. I've seen one with a plastic (or bone, possibly) nut, but that could've been non-original. The 1a was active. There were at least three different itterations of the 1A - 2 different P style pickups, or a Magnabass. I think the later ones, with the Magnabass pickup, had chrome bridges rather than brass. The 2's and 3's were all active and AFAIK all had 2 pickups and thru neck. Corrections welcome... [/quote] When I said 3 versions, I was meaning of the 1a really, as that's what mine is. I'll edit my previous post to make it clearer. I've been highly tempted by a Thunder II recently. Just a bit too pricey for my budget though ... http://www.whitstableguitars.co.uk/1981westonethunderiibass.htm

[quote name='Martin E' timestamp='1380117514' post='2221047'] Hamfist Thanks for such a speedy and comprehensive reply and your time I helped my son do a Strat body a few years ago and used Halfords paint if I recall. It covered a sanded and prepped gloss varnished body quite well but was not very durable and started to wear off after a while. I have a P bass body I am hoping to tackle next so your reply is very helpful. Cheers Martin [/quote] I have no long-term knowledge of the durability of my finishes, as they are both very recent. I'm optimistic though !

[quote name='Martin E' timestamp='1380107769' post='2220832'] That looks fantastic, what a nice colour. Interested in your comments regarding Plastikote as I'm about to embark on a similar project. If you have a moment grateful if you could briefly give a bit more info on preparation, priming, drying time etc and how many coats/cans of paint it took. Thanks a lot [/quote] Thanks. As for my "technique", the key, key thing is to get the initial surface as absolutely smooth as possible. Any ridges, grain etc etc showing before you paint will almost certainly carry through to the finished surface. Fill any dings/holes with wood filler and allow to dry overnight before sanding and priming. It's useful to have various wet & Dry paper grades. I got by with 120, 240 1000, 1500 and 2000 grades, and work your way up the grades to get smoother and smoother. You'll only need the 1500 and 200 for the final polishing. OK, after initial prep, if you are down to bare wood, use primer first (I used Plastikote Super grey primer). Say 5-6 coats at 30 minute intervals until the wood is decently covered. By a "coat" I generally mean about 2 passes of the can. It's a fairly thin coat. I hung the body up using a sturdy coat hanger, a couple of bolts and some string to get access to the whole thing for each coat. Let the primer dry and cure overnight. Sand back with 1000 grade paper (wet) the next day, before putting your colour coats on. It seems that you can paint directly onto an existing colour finish. The other bass I did worked out great, just prepping the original painted and lacquered surface and spraying directly over it. From what I can gather some paints will not "mix" well though and will not "take" well on some other types of paint. I haven't really got much experience of this though For colour coats I use the PLastikote Super satin finish cans. About 2 x 400ml cans will do one bass body. I spray the colour on over 3 days. Each day I give about 8 coats at 30-45 minute intervals (the interval is not critical but don't go longer than an hour), and then let dry overnight. Then repeat the exact same sanding and spraying protocol for the next two days. (always make sure the body is thoroughly smooth and dry after wet sanding before spraying again. Be careful not to get significant amounts of water into screw holes etc.) After the end of the 3rd days colour coating. I hang the bass (in as warm a place as poss) for 48 hours. Then do my final sanding through the grades of wet'n'dry, finishing off with 2000 grade. Then I use a rubbing compound (I use G3 professional paint renovator, from Halfords) to get the best polish and shine. Then it all comes down to your patience as to how long you wait before putting the bass back together. I would advise at least a week, and then still be aware that the paint will still be relatively soft, and won't get it's full hardness for a while (not sure exactly how long, but after about 3-4 weeks it's pretty tough). For a solid satin colour finish I have not used a separate clear coat. Anyway it's worked for me. No doubt I will still continue to refine my protocol. I'm very much still in the learning phase.