hamfist

[quote name='hamfist' timestamp='1360139277' post='1965287'] My thoughts are that if you like the vintage, "Ampegy", bass-frequencies-turn-into-a-fart-and-you-lose-you-note-attack type of OD then the VT1 is better. If you like tighter, more modern, keep-your-attack type drive then the Aguilar is the one to go for. Simples. [/quote] Just wanted to confirm that my words were not meant as an attack on the VT1. I would say exactly the same about an Ampeg SVT CL. I know a load of folks love that sort of sound. Just not for me.

[quote name='Lozz196' timestamp='1360107862' post='1965094'] If the bass is a player, then no, for that I wouldn`t send it back. If however it wasn`t then it`s a good reason to get a swap and see if the next one is better. Re the gig-bag, well I think I would send that back, yes they`re not the greatest of gig-bags, but still, you`re paying for new, you should get it. [/quote] Spot on Mr Lozz ! that would be my take on the matter too.

[quote name='cocco' timestamp='1359278164' post='1952286'] What's the neck like out of curiosity? It says slim C, is that more jazz territory? [/quote] The neck is definitely more P than J. Still quite chunky.

I can't really answer your questions but do have some other thoughts on the matter. FIrstly both amps are top class, although different, and IMO some of the best in the Ashdown range. Depsite the online Ashdown demo of the Spyder 550 (which is the same amp in head format), it WILL NOT overdrive for most folks. At some point they have obviously changed the circuitry and most people find it is super clean. The LB will overdrive nicely. Your X3 could of course supply OD (I have used it for this in the past and was quite impressed with it). The touring combo would be ideal for rehearsals and smaller pub gigs. Anything more and personally I'd want to add an extension cab. Your biggest enemy will be weight. If it's not an issue for you then you have a huge choice of cabs for the LB, or extension cabs for the combo. What are your weight needs ? And what budget are you looking at for cabs ?

I guess you've probably already checked out my youtube demo of the pedal. My thoughts are that if you like the vintage, "Ampegy", bass-frequencies-turn-into-a-fart-and-you-lose-you-note-attack type of OD then the VT1 is better. If you like tighter, more modern, keep-your-attack type drive then the Aguilar is the one to go for. Simples. I still advise that EVERYBODY tries out the Ashdown Lomenzo drive. It is fantastic for this sort of thing, although doesn't have the DI obviously. It's OD is most natural and pleasant to my ear. In fact I must get around to doing a demo vid of it, that shows what it can do apart from Mr. Lomenzo's style (which if course it also does admirably).

[quote name='Dave Vader' timestamp='1360081703' post='1964541'] I done mine with gaffa tape. [/quote] A nice tort gaffa tape obviously !

[quote name='neepheid' timestamp='1360053606' post='1963963'] Your prerogative of course, but I got the one off my Gibson Victory copied (can't get much more weird than that) and I don't remember it being too bad. Also, the very reason I got it copied was because some klutz had covered the original in something like silver hammerite and ruined it. Suffice to say, I'm not a fan of people painting pick guards You've got a lovely bass, if you're going to make changes, make them easily reversible. Once you factor in the evil paint you'll need to have any kind of durability, your time and the possibility for error and the potential damage to future real value, I'd say that painting your pick guard is a false economy at best. Rant over, ultimately it's your bass and your call. [/quote] You are probably right. The more I think about it, the more I veer towards getting a new scratchplate. This place seems to be one of the better places that has been suggested to me ..... [url="http://www.simscustom.com/html/00pickguard_materials.htm"]http://www.simscustom.com/html/00pickguard_materials.htm[/url] About £55-£60 for a P bass-type pearloid guard. Think I shall probably go for it.

[quote name='neepheid' timestamp='1360017438' post='1963739'] Now that the Bass Doc seems to be back in business, would it not be better to get your existing one copied? [/quote] It's definitely an option, but being an unusual bass it'll be a custom 'plate and therefor I expect not cheap. I'll get a quote at some point for sure.

What's worse that a 100% slap bass demo ? ...... One that's recorded on a mobile phone. WHY ???????????????????

I think as a percentage, we actually have fewer timewasters and idiots that most forums. All my trades/sales/purchases on here have turned out very well. But, yes, there's bound to be a few bad apples sadly.

That looks like some good stuff. Thanks for the suggestion. I don't mind paying a bit for the proper stuff that will give a lasting finish. Even then, it sounds like it will probably end up cheaper than a new scratchplate, even if I could find one to fit.

Sold a pedal to Kostas in Greece. It was an absolutely easy and pleasant deal. He was patient and friendly and communicated very well at every point. Thanks !

I bought Ash's Warwick THumb, and I have to say that he is a particularly fine chap. Outstanding communication, absolutely reasonable, and was happy to deliver the bass to my home free of charge, as he was "passing" within about 30 miles of me (so quite out of his way really !). The bass was also, if anything, rather nicer than I expected. A credit to BC. THanks mate !

I'm considering painting the scratchplate on my G&L SB2, as getting an aftermarket one seems difficult and expensive. Anyone have any suggestions as to the best type of paint to use. I'm obviously going to be happy with a solid colour. Also, would it be best to seal it with some other sort of finish for the final layer ?

My Lomenzo overdrive is an "always on" for me for fingerstyle playing. Although it can eat up your bass frequencies a bit (which the blend pot helps a lot with), which is also no problem if your amp/cab puts out plenty. I have to admit to being rather a pedal snob though, so I havn't actually tried out any of the real cheapy options out there.

Difficult one to answer. I've not played a USA one, but my Indonesian tribute SB2 has build quality way better than your average MIM Fender. Plays a treat too. Interweb wisdom is that the tributes sound pretty much identical to the USA versions but that you do get "nicer" (ie. more expensive) woods with the USA basses and a general feeling of better "quality" and attention to detail. As for the Jap tributes, I'd guess they'd be somewhere inbetween. Also got to remember that the USA tributes in particular do not hold their used value well at all, whereas the tributes do seem to. So don't pay too much. What's the price, age and condition of the bass you are considering ?

Don't do it. You are extremely likely to blow the drivers in the cab. Firstly, they are not designed for the low end of a bass and secondly, they are so low wattage, that you are extremely likely to overload and blow them up. Sorry, not what you want to hear but that's the truth. Got to remember that bass-type frequencies take a LOT more power to get the same perceived volume from them than guitar-type frequencies.

Always worth having a quick hunt around the EU for prices of expensive items, as sometimes they are much, much cheaper than in the UK. COurier charges from retailers are usually about the same as from the UK. The only downside is a potentially more difficult aftersales/return situation at such a distance.

The GK neo series are outstanding cabs. The cheaper MBE cabs are "OK" but are certainly built down to a price. ie/ cheaper, harsher piezo tweeter, more "boomy" and tend to fart out earlier. So take your pick, according to your budget. My main cab is a GK neo 212 II, which is outstanding, and is comfortably able to handle a loud pub gig with no FoH support.

They are horrible and really only worth the low prices you pay for them IMO

Yes to the Fralins. Absolutely. Pre-amps .... I can't help. i prefer passivefor a J.

I'd go for the red tort myslef. I have played one of these - absolutely fantastic P tone IMO.

[quote name='Jack' timestamp='1359219567' post='1951808'] Thanks ham! Currently it is daisy-chained with two Mooer pedals but I suppose it's trivial to move it to an isolated output. If there's no noise or hum does it really matter? [/quote] My understanding of the info is that if you give it it's own isolated Boss-type centre-negative supply (clearly not daisy-chained to any other pedals) all should be fine. Are you saying that you are currently running it daisy-chained with these Mooer pedals ? if so, then the DIago information might suggest that you might bust your PSU.