geoffbyrne

In the Glasgow Patois, 'stank' is a street drain, as in: 'Help Ma Boab, ah've drapped ma keys doon the stank an' canny reach them!!!' G.

Has this become a problem only since the foam was replaced? I had a prob something like this & it turned out to be the foam breaking down.

DiMarzio Model 'J' is pretty much a 'straight' P pickup (i.e. two coils side by side in series). You could try that in the neck position - I'm sure someone on here would have one to sell you at a reasonable price. G.

[quote name='clarkpegasus4001' timestamp='1468047809' post='3088221'] Such as? I think T-Cut would be a bit too abrasive? Or was you thinking of something else? [/quote] I used to use Turtle Wax because I had it for the car anyway. ALSO, I found the car wax less liable to show fingerprints as it's much harder than a furniture polish. But, as I said, I didn't use it very often. G.

Occasionally (because it's mildly abrasive) I'll use car polish - might be just what your's needs - once. G.

I played for a short time (!) with a duo of guitarists who: (1) didn't take it into account that many of the song recorded were played on instruments tuned to Eb, so the players were using chord shapes as E so they emulated the pitch no matter how weird or unlikely the difficulty of playing the chord sequence (2) both used capos. (2) they used capos on different frets so they could 'voice the chords differently' (4) at the end of the day/performance they hadn't a clue what key they were really in as an E shape at the capo was, to them, always an E, so although one was capo'd at the 4the fret it was still E etc (5) they often changed key of a number between performances as they were mates and practiced together midweek on their own (6) The key change was often a surprise to me onstage. As I said, I played with them a short time..... G. p.s. Actually, when it was all OK they actually sounded quite good

You MIGHT get it in if you used the jack socket hole for one of the controls, but you'd need to bore a hole for a side entry jack, and I suspect you'd need to get a craftsman to install a battery box in the back of the bass as that would involve the removal of a fair amount of wood, then there's the wiring to the stereo out socket........ Mmmmm. Personally, I plug into an MXR 80 outboard pre. G.

Don't heat the grub screw - it'll expand & be harder to move - heat the saddle which, hopefully, will expand more than the screw and allow it a bit more room to turn. G.

A couple of years ago I had my 'perfect' bass strap cut from a large piece of buffalo hide. This is 4" wide. All & all it's great except I find it's just a smidgen too wide at the shoulder and can dig into the side of my neck, so just be careful with your measuring. G.

Have a look at the Yamaha TRB series. Wide spacing at the bridge. G.

Yamaha BB425 - covers all bases (pun intended.). G.

I remember someone asking about separating their cabs some time ago, and Bill Fitzmaurice recommending against it due to comb filtering. G.

Booked through Parcel2Go yesterday for pickup today. All confirmed and done by UPS. Parcel picked up today at 12:32. No probs this end. Hope it all goes as well t'other end. G.

Put a John East pre-amp into it. G.

Rules out using it at a Celtic Rally..... G.

I've done 17 in all, with various bands. G.

+1 on trying your bass through some sort of EQ pedal. My own fav is an MXR80+. Lift mids & a little more bass, perhaps. Or fit a switch to put the neck & bridge pickups in series. G.

It seems to me that if you tune, then it goes out after a short time, the nut slots may be a wee bit on the tight side & gripping. Consider a pass or two of a file to give a smidgen of more width, and make sure the bottom of the slot is cut clean with an angle down toward the head with a good witness point. G.

Strings sometimes do this if they have managed to get a twist in them between nut & bridge when being put on. Try taking it completely off and holding it up by one end to let any twist come out, then re-stringing it while carefully making sure no twist is re-introduced during the installation. You never know, it may work. Also, costs nothing but time. G.

[quote name='TPTroll' timestamp='1460136473' post='3023029'] Right, ok, turned my attention away from that one as it sounded too confusing. But, then I found this bass with another neck issue. Neck bowed, but truss rod at max. Truss rod replacement, or just putting a new washer in at the nut? [/quote] Looking carefully at the lower picture I get the impression of an 'S' shape going on here. To me, there is almost a back bow at the first 2 or 3 frets nearest the nut, then there seems to be a fall away from approx. the 6th fret before starting back upwards at approx. the 12th-13th fret. I'd leave that one well alone as I suspect you'd never find a suitable action on it. Tightening the truss rod would amplify the 'S' and loosening would probably result in a fairly pronounced bow. G.