geoffbyrne

[quote name='kevin_lindsay' timestamp='1332193513' post='1584742'] GREAT!!! Just what I'm looking for. I'm currently making a mid 50's style P-Bass in Shell Pink. I don't want to have the finger rest in Shell Zpink, sonic wondering whether to go for a plain maple one, or one in ebony? Here's a pic of the style of bass with the pink rest in place [/quote] I'd go for this one (he'll do it in single hole): G.

[quote name='chrismuzz' timestamp='1332086956' post='1582972'] I used to plug my bass directly into the mic input on an old hifi I had with a graphic EQ on it, way before I had a decent amp! [/quote] This ^^^^ I have my PC linked up to the Hifi, so I can plug the active bass directly into the karaoke mic input and use headphones, meaning I can play along (silently) with music on the PC. Works awfully well!! G.

I'd tag it back in with a minute slick of Evo Stick, then you can always remove it again if needed. As you've discovered, the string tension holds it in quite well. G.

Another interesting instance of Amp Blueprinting: http://la-economy.blogspot.com/2012/03/bit-of-amp-blueprinting-from-past.html G.

I have a BB415 & can assure you the bridge pickup is adjustable as shown above & goes up & down by quite a distance. G.

The Roland sounds exactly what I want. The HH is nice, but the opposite of what I need. Thanks for the suggestions & advice. G.

Go down to CrackConverters & pick up a cheapish pair of big HiFi speakers - for the volume & the size of room, they'd probably be fine - I've done this with a pair of Sanyos in my 'Dugout' (about 14'x14') and they are more than loud enough. You'll need to fabricate cables to fit, probably. G.

+1 for the Schaller 3D - it's very low too, so the new item usually comes with a plastic bass in case the whole bridge needs to sit higher. G.

I'm in my mid 60's - if I drank before or during a gig, I'd be off every 10 mins to the loo........ G.

Latest epistle from Myles: [url="http://la-economy.blogspot.com/2012/03/vacuum-tubes-today.html"]http://la-economy.blogspot.com/2012/03/vacuum-tubes-today.html[/url] G.

Replace neck pup with DiMarzio Model J wired in series - as near as it gets without routing. G.

Have a go at something like a Yamaha BB425 - sort of Jazz spacing at the nut going down to about 18mm at the bridge. G.

One of my original musical 'sketches' went top 50 in its category in Soundclick recently & I was well chuffed. G.

I'm thinking of getting one to use as foldback. I already have a suitable passive cab to hook into it, but on examining various pics of those on sale on Ebay, it seems to me that most of the links are XLR to facilitate active-cab to active-cab. Does anyone have a brand which has a straight standard speaker to speaker jack to jack? I don't want to buy a cab & find I can't hook in my passive cab. G.

.....if only they did these as 5ers......... G.

In my experience, that's a bit unusual. I don't know how people expect to hear you at your best if you don't know the material - I've always been supplied with a small list of songs to be done previous to the event. G.

I use a redface British built MAG400 (485W@4 Ohms) & am very happy with it. However. One of the things I've discovered is that the EQ is a bit ineffectual till you yonk it up a bit. You seem to lose a ton of power by leaving everything flat. I tend to turn everything up to around 3 o'clock except the bass, which I leave at 12 o'clock. Sometimes I put the Mids back to 12 too as it's naturally a bit mids-heavy. Dependent on the cabs I have attached, I may or may not cut this back a bit when I do the soundtest - I have an Eminence 3015 in a smallish cab & an Eminence 2515 in a large-ish cab. If I use the 3015 on its own, I need the extra bass, which I usually get by hiking up the 220Hz knob a bit, but with the 2515 attached (or both), there's bottom end aplenty without doing too much to the EQ at all. Try pushing the EQ up a bit & turning back the gain till the needle's only waggling about in the middle. G.

What's your EQ settings? G.

If you are still 'adjusting' the nut remember to cut with a slope down toward the headstock as you need the 'witness point' at the very front edge of the groove. The lack of this is the cause of many intonation problems. I've used CTS pots in the past with no probs. Sometimes, when you have a slight fret buzz further down the neck, a very slight release of truss-rod tension will fix it. An easy way to cut volume is to buy a decent tuner pedal that cuts the volume when stood on - you can check your tuning too - the step on it again to go. G.

It produces its full 300W through 4 Ohms, which means you need to add another speaker cab which has to be rated at no less than 150W and is 8 Ohms. Currently, through 8 Ohms, it's giving in the region of 150 - 180W. Adding the second cab will give a large increase in perceived volume. You can add another 1x15 or a 4x10 (or even a 2x12, but that would need to be 2x 16 Ohms in parallel - I'm not sure how common they are). When you have 2 cabs of equal resistance (in this case, 8 Ohms) the output power is divided equally between them. So 300/2 means a maximum of 150W into each cab. G.

I saw a gun bag in a surplus shop once that would have been ideal, but unfortunately that's closed now, but if there's a services surplus near you, have a look. G.

Maybe go for a Wilkinson bridge - inexepensive & usually fairly decent. If you haven't cut a nut before, then go very carefully as one pass of the file can be the difference between perfection & a blown nut. Put on a new set of decent strings & I bet at least some of your intonation probs will disappear. I'd probably replace all the pots with semi-decent ones & go for VVT. Good luck with it. If you do all that & it works out, there is a terrific sense of achievement & satisfaction. G.

tests run on JJ 803S valves [url="http://la-economy.blogspot.com/2012/02/tube-test-jj803s.html"]http://la-economy.bl...est-jj803s.html[/url] & Tung Sol 12AX7 http://la-economy.blogspot.com/2012/02/tube-test-12ax7-tung-sol-reissue.html G.