geoffbyrne

Compared to what's going on in 'Rude Gear Names?', I find absolutely nothing in the thread to cause locking. I'm mystified. G.

Do any of the Sandbergs fall into that range? G.

Dougie, did you get my PM? G.

Axes'R'Us.co.uk do a 'G&B' 10K P pup at a reasonable price which I used on a project before...it was great, very punchy. Here, and about 11 or 12 down..... [url="http://www.axesrus.com/AxeBassPup.html"]http://www.axesrus.com/AxeBassPup.html[/url] G.

The only thing I've read about the Tokai T-Bird is that the neck isn't set into the body as far as the Gibson original, or the Epi. This adds a little to the inherent neck-dive property of the genre and some find playing the bottom notes a bit of a stretch. If you do a search for 'Thunderbird' in Talkbass, you'll find a couple of mentions on this. Beyond that, the consensus seems to be that it's better then the Epi (and many say that the new ones - especially the Pro Series - are very, very good) and maybe not quite as good as a *good* Gibson (if you can find one). YMMV. G.

I got some plain black cloth off Ebay recently for my Fender Studio 85. Looks great. G.

[quote name='dougie' post='890005' date='Jul 9 2010, 12:01 AM']Clearing out my junk room and will be lobbing out loads of surplus parts ive salvaged from machines ive rebuilt/scrapped loads of memory ddr/ddr2.various hard drives(from 40-160gb ide),graphic cards(agp),dvd writers,cpu`s(mostly skt 775 p4),few mobos(775 and older 748 p4),psu`s etc etc.....pm if anyone can use any of it.[/quote] I'd be interested in the DVD writers & the larger Hard Drives.......? G.

Axes'R'Us have a G&B 10K P pup which I've used before. It's not too expensive and has a pretty decent amount of grunt. I bought a pair for this: which ended up looking like: Find here & scroll down a bit: [url="http://www.axesrus.com/AxeBassPup.html"]http://www.axesrus.com/AxeBassPup.html[/url] G.

Since you are keeping the string-spacing narrow, I might suggest you consider the pair of Joe Barden pups I have for sale here: [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=90113"]http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=90113[/url] I had them on my Hohner B Bass V and since they are twin-rails, there was no problem with the string spacing. These are top-quality pups wound to reproduce the original sound of the Jazz bass. Boxed PM me if you are interested. Geoff

[quote name='carlsim' post='889416' date='Jul 8 2010, 12:22 PM']Hi all... my current setup is a Tecamp S210 4 ohm cab powered by a Genz Benz Shuttle 6... (375watts in 8 ohms, 600 watts in 4 ohms...) I would like to add another cab for depth to the sound for bigger gigs... how much of a loss of power would i experience if i rewired my cab from parallel (2 x 8 ohm speakers = 4ohms) to series (2 x 8 ohm speakers = 16 ohms) and then i can add another 8 ohm cab to run at around 5.3 ohms when necessary... 1 - Will the GB Shuttle power a 16 ohm cab??? [b]Of course it will.[/b] 2 - How much power loss will i notice going from a 4 ohm to a 16 ohm cab??? [b]That depends on how loud you need to be. At medium volumes in a medium room you'll turn up the master to compensate. At full volume you probably will miss a little, or you'll have a bit less headroom.[/b] 3 - Has anyone found any other solutions being in a similar position??? I really like the cab and would love an 8 ohm version... ( I have it up for trade at the moment with no luck...) [b]Why not leave your leave your 4x10 as is & get a 16 Ohm 15"? This will let you run at 3.2 Ohms (I think - someone check that for me) and I doubt that that would affect the amp very much unless you have it fully open the whole time. Of course, the 4 Ohm cab will get a lot more power then the 16 Ohm. There may be a volume imbalance noticable until you turn it up quite loud. It may be worthwhile seeing if you can borrow a 16 Ohm cab & giving it a try before trying to muck around your 4x10. You can't rewire a 4x10 to 8 Ohms anyway, if they are all 8 Ohm drivers.[/b] 4 - How difficult is it going to be to get in the back of the cab to do what needs to be done??? [b]Depends if the speaker drivers are front or back loaded. Back panel for back-loaded speakers is easier, but you have to be careful re-sealing it afterward. [/b] Any info would be muchly appreciated! Cheers![/quote]

Fit & glue some snug plugs & redrill? The flange on top of the bush will hide the edge of the plug. G.

[quote name='Al Heeley' post='889401' date='Jul 8 2010, 12:01 PM']ooh-errr, Peavey say 4ohms should be minimum load for their Tour series heads. I asked in the Hartke subforum about how to rewire the 410 cab as a 4ohm to get the max push out of the amp and was told it could not be done.[/quote] fair enough, if the manual says that 4 Ohms is the optimum, then you already have the ideal setup in 2x8Ohm cabs. A lot of Peavey amps will go to 2 Ohms, however. G.

[quote name='Al Heeley' post='888648' date='Jul 7 2010, 04:54 PM']Peavey Tour 450 head & 2 hartke cabs: Does it make any difference if I wire each cab from the two separate outputs on the amp, or daisy chain them from amp to cab1, then cab1 to cab 2? Is there a best method?[/quote] No, it doesn't matter. Assuming your cabs are 8 Ohms, both ways will result in a load of 4 Ohms. Most peavey amps seem to be OK down to 2 Ohms (most Peavey cabs are 4 Ohms). G.

I had been playing guitar in rock groups & bands since 1959 and, as child #1 was on his way would soon give up as we were out 3 times per week and had been for about 8 years non-stop - in fact it was difficult to organise a holiday! I was using a beautiful Antoria (Ibanez) Les Paul Black Beauty with an ebony fretboard inlaid with the Tree of Life & had Super 70 pickups - a real cracker, which I stupidly let go for Not Very Much when the babies came along. I originally paid about £135 for it. My amp at the time had been a 50W Marshall 2x12 combo which I changed to a compact Maine 2x12 & 65W head to be more portable as the Marshall weighed an absolute ton. I think the amp cost me just under £100 and the cab was about 85. Effects? What are those? Never took pics in those days, got almost nothing at all. G.

Be careful here!!! Very few cabs, to my knowledge, have standardised series wiring. If you take a cable from cab to cab you will, most likely, still be connecting in parallel. I remember once, a long time ago, seeing a Vox cab with 2 black plastic-nutted jacks marked "parallel" and one white-nutted socket marked "series", but apart from doing custom wiring, that's all. Geoff.

I think the one you bought has an extended faceplate which fits neatly into a 19" rack. The standard item needs the addition of lugs. G.

I read somewhere it might have been Keef Richards playing bass on that....... G.

What do you mean by 'drop B' - do you mean BEAD? If you do, you couldn't tune the strings needed for that (effectively the bottom 4 strings of a 5 string set) back up to EADG - you'd ruin the neck. G.

[quote name='Smash' post='883543' date='Jul 1 2010, 11:26 PM']Still the same problem tonight these SPB-3 are not for me, I am a big fan of Dimarzio pickups does anyone know what ones would emulate a USA Precision Pickup, thanks[/quote] have you considered swapping round the wiring to run them in parallel? This would reduce the output (but also change the tone). G.

[quote name='4 Strings' post='882706' date='Jul 1 2010, 08:53 AM'](I realise when you say '3', you mean 3 O'Clock which is a hefty boost!)[/quote] Agreed, but this is what I've found works in practice. G.

If I can suggest reading up here: [url="http://www.guitaramplifierblueprinting.com/"]http://www.guitaramplifierblueprinting.com/[/url] This resource was put together by Myles Rose who can be contacted directly here: [url="http://forums.musicplayer.com/ubbthreads.php/topics/1351234/1"]http://forums.musicplayer.com/ubbthreads.p...opics/1351234/1[/url] He works with a lot of top musicians & has a particular interest in Dr Z Amps. I re-valved my Laney VC30 to his advice. I have a CV4004 (Military Spec Mullard ECC83) in my V1, a NOS Mullard ECC83 in V2 and a matched spec ECC81 in V3, along with 4 matched Groove Tubes EL84S in the power sockets. [url="http://www.tubedepot.com/12ax7.html"]http://www.tubedepot.com/12ax7.html[/url] The clean channel cranked is amazing when it starts to break up, but it's LOUD at that point (2x10+1x12) If you want a cleaner sound - more headroom than either an ECC83 or a 12AX7 will give you, try a 5751: [url="http://www.audioasylum.com/scripts/d.pl?audio/faq/joes-tubes.html"]http://www.audioasylum.com/scripts/d.pl?au...joes-tubes.html[/url] This is what Stevie Ray Vaughan liked in his V1. It has about 70% of the gain of a 12AX7/ECC83 (the 12AY7 and 12AU7 are a LOT less) and can give loads of headroom with the scrifice of a little total volume. [url="http://www.vacuumtubes.com/12ax7.html"]http://www.vacuumtubes.com/12ax7.html[/url] Obviously despite the above being guitar amps, the generalities apply completely to bass amps. Hope this helps. Geoff

I have a UK-built MAG400 (Redface - 485W@4 Ohms) into 2x15 cabs. I'm assuming it's the same tone stack. I have found that the MAG set 'flat' (all tone knobs at 12 o'clock) doesn't carry much punch at all. I leave the bass at 12 o'clock, low Mids at 3, Mids at 3 o'clock, Hi mids at 9 o'clock (as is my wont) & treble at 3 o'clock. Run like this I have plenty of power & rarely need to go past 12 on the master volume. If I go back to flat, it all goes quiet........... Anyone else find this?