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geoffbyrne

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Everything posted by geoffbyrne

  1. ALTERNATIVELY.............................. Get a tuning pedal & use it as a mute................................ G.
  2. Here's the info: To make a small super-light rig, I bought an empty Ampeg Portabass 112H cab and put my Beyma K200 12" 250W @ 8 Ohms in it. There's a compression horn in place but not connected as I'm going through a Digitech GTX1 patched for bass into the Line In socket of a Crate Powerblock bridged (150W @ 8 Ohms) so it only out puts through one jack when bridged and wants 8 Ohms only - it'll protect itself and cut off at 4 Ohms. I'm not using/connected the horn as it would bring the cab down to 4 Ohms - incompatible with the above. I know putting odd drivers into cabs is a bit hit or miss, but this is sounding pretty good a low-ish volumes. The question is - the would I be better completely removing the (circular) horn and allowing a port for the Beyma. I'm pretty sure it isn't intended for sealed cabs? I'm pretty crap at trying to use WinISD - I haven't a clue, so maybe someone here might give me some good advice? Ta!!!! G.
  3. I've been playing in bands off & on since 1959, so....... The most stable bands I've been in have *not* been democracies. They've been the vision of one person who's put it together & runs it as 'their baby'. Now, providing you're happy to to be the hired gun & pick up the money (& I am, mostly) this works just fine. Also, that kind of atmosphere makes it easier to say 'this is not working for me, I'll be moving on'. I'm currently with a *very* democratic band and everyone can veto everyone else. This isn't terribly positive and at the end of the day we end up with a playlist by committee which is pretty bland, as no-one wants to stick their neck out and do anything a bit exciting. The new female vocalist came in with a list of songs numbering about 12 which she *really* wanted to sing - the voting system has whittled this down to 1. Rather takes the enthusiasm away. I'm trying hard to extricate myself, but it will be seen as 'betrayal' and I don't want to leave bad vibes behind, but it looks like its inevitable. G.
  4. The two CRTs I replaced with LCD about 2 years ago. They were in use up till I put them away. One's a Packard Bell, but I can't remember the barand of the other - possibly LG - the LG has now gone. Pickup only from Loughborough. Geoff
  5. I've used Tung Oil, first two coats cut in half with White Spirit. The humidity at the time of oiling has a lot to do with how quickly it dries and if it feels sticky or not - and Tung oil likes to be rubbed in - plenty of elbow grease. I did a body using 2 coats of diluted with plenty of rubbing of the first coat to get it in deep, then two coats of undiluted. It takes a while to dry - 2 or 3 days - more if humidity is high, but once dry a going over with a buffer gave it a very nice sheen indeed. G.
  6. I'm getting in touch with John East about this - I've modified first post to reflect. G.
  7. Sold to Purpolaris pending usual. G.
  8. [quote name='pal1972' post='566573' date='Aug 12 2009, 10:30 AM']any idea what the body wood is? could be tempted!!!!![/quote] Sorry - don't know, but it isn't overly-light, if you know what I mean. Suspect Basswood, but wouldn't swear on it. G.
  9. [quote name='PURPOLARIS' post='566580' date='Aug 12 2009, 10:36 AM']PM'd[/quote] Replied. G.
  10. I need to realise some cash for a speaker cab I badly need, so P bass is the least used of the bunch and has to go. All parts were obtained on Basschat save for the tuners and the pickguard. Squier body with plenty of 'Mojo' (previous owner removed sticker & some paint, many minor bumps). Unbranded but straight neck with average fretwear. I've done a partial re-crown on the lower frets. Medium 'D' rather than shallow 'C'. Looking at wood & grain, possibly Indian Sunn. A previous owner has sanded brand off. New Fender-type bridge assembly (swapped for a really old/scrappy one from a member who was building a 'relic'). Gen-you-ine Fender MIM pickup. Pots don't crackle - clean knobs. Brand new set of La Bella Deep Talkin' Flats, with less than 2 hours playing on them. Decent action. I'll include strap locks, strap & gig bag. Plays well, sounds like a P ought to. Pics here: [url="http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v213/geoffbyrne/FrankenP/"]http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v213/geoffbyrne/FrankenP/[/url] Must be worth £60 ONO. Local pickup would be good if you are in the Midlands. I'll travel up & down the M1 a bit if necessary. Geoff
  11. Let's not get it locked before someone takes it!!!! Someone must want a telescope for a chorus pedal? Eh? Eh? G.
  12. Traveler (sic) Reflector Astronomical Telescope for sale or trade. Cost £80 so value to £40? Used once with all the bits including software. WHY? Would trade for a chorus or compression pedal that works with bass. Would need to be local pickup. [url="http://h8349.serverkompetenz.net/htdocs_traveler/uk/front_content.php?idcat=275"]http://h8349.serverkompetenz.net/htdocs_tr...t.php?idcat=275[/url] Geoff
  13. [quote name='kurcatovium' post='564389' date='Aug 9 2009, 07:49 PM']Hello. I might be interested. Will it work with 2 MM style Bartolini humbuckers?[/quote] Bassmeg has first dibs on it at the moment, but if he doesn't want to take it, I think it would be fine with the Barts as they are passive. I just found that with the very low impedence of the Peavey active pickups, the U-Retro moved everything basswards by quite a lot and could find very little in the way of treble, hence I replaced the Peavey Pre, which is actually, apart from the lack of a sweepable mids, pretty decent. G.
  14. I have a 3 x double pot John East U-Retro which I recently bought off Ebay (from a Basschat member) to replace the pre in my Cirrus BXP. The John East didn't work well with the active pickups and I've put the Peavey pre back in it, so the U-Retro is out on the bench (I've mounted it on a Jazz control plate for safety). ***This is a U-Retro with cables. It will NOT fit in the standard J Control Route. You need the R-Retro for that. ***Similarly the U-Retro has longer threaded controls (10mm) for back mounting through the wooden face of the bass. ***The R-Retro has 6mm threaded controls for mounting on a metal plate. It's slightly non-standard in that the passive pickup switch has been *factory* modified to allow neck, both, bridge. There's an extra connection point on the bottom of the switch, but I haven't a clue where or how to connect it. The cable for said switch came to me totally unattached. It is no great problem if you are handy with the soldering iron to tack them on, but it's a delicate fix & easily knocked off. While I'm asking JE about the switch, I'll try & beg the 'cuffs' he uses for the attachment of the lines to replace the missing ones. Pics here: [url="http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v213/geoffbyrne/John%20East/"]http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v213/geo...ne/John%20East/[/url] I'd want £120 posted. All chrome hardware. ***ADDITIONAL NOTE: I've decided to return this unit to John East Products to have the 'Blend' switch cable re-attached properly and the extra connection determined, as a possible buyer ascertained that John East wouldn't comment on the connection until he saw the set-up. If you are interested in this, I would ask you to still PM me and declare your interest and you will have first 'dibs' when the unit is returned. Geoff
  15. I suspect certain salesmen rub their hands with glee when they see you coming.................. G.
  16. You could go through an MXR-80+. Put the Shuker straight through it and set up one or both of its channels for the Jazz. G.
  17. [quote name='geoffbyrne' post='557383' date='Jul 31 2009, 07:41 PM']I went down to B&Q & got some 3/8" or 1/4" dowel (not sure which), bored out the screw holes (don't go too deep!!!) and pushed in the dowel after dipping the ends in an excellent wood glue. Let it go off for 48 hours then you can re-drill a pilot hole for the screws. Worked fine for me. Geoff[/quote] I think that should have been 3/16th or 1/4"!!!!!!!!!!!! G.
  18. I went down to B&Q & got some 3/8" or 1/4" dowel (not sure which), bored out the screw holes (don't go too deep!!!) and pushed in the dowel after dipping the ends in an excellent wood glue. Let it go off for 48 hours then you can re-drill a pilot hole for the screws. Worked fine for me. Geoff
  19. I used an Ibanez P clone tuned (& strung) BEAD - 130 B string. There's actually less stress on the neck with BEAD than with EADG, so you may not need to adjust the truss rod. You'll probably have to widen (NOT DEEPEN!!!!) the nut slots. Apart from that, that's it. I'd pick up a semi-decent squier P or Jazz from a Cash Converters or the like.......... [url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/FENDER-SQUIER-PRECISION-BASS-GUITAR_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem3ef73c1197QQitemZ270435881367QQptZUKQ5fMusicalQ5fInstrumentsQ5fGuitarsQ5fCVQQsalenotsupported"]http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/FENDER-SQUIER-PRECIS...alenotsupported[/url] [url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Precision-P-Bass-Goth-Tattoo-Design-Squire_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem1e57bef996QQitemZ130321152406QQptZUKQ5fMusicalQ5fInstrumentsQ5fGuitarsQ5fCVQQsalenotsupported"]http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Precision-P-Bass-Got...alenotsupported[/url] G.
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