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geoffbyrne

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Everything posted by geoffbyrne

  1. Drilling a hole through the Allan Socket & putting a self-tapping screw through has worked. The action is now perfect. :0) Note that this will only work on double-action truss rods where the nut is welded to the top rod. G.
  2. [quote name='Happy Jack' post='528460' date='Jun 30 2009, 11:17 AM']So it wasn't a keeper, then? [size=1]I'll get my coat.[/size][/quote] [size=1]No[/size]
  3. I bought this Keiper off Ebay for, I think £62 as a project to defret, which it did, very successfully - the fretboard didn't even chip, which, I think, meant the wood had dried & shrunk a bit - it needed feeding. The routing at the back - control cavity - was poor, but once set up correctly it played well enough. The electrical components were really cheap. It was sold on as a starter fretless. Geoff
  4. Well, I've found out that it's a dual action rod & the nut is probably welded to the top rod. Time to drill a hole & use a good old steel self-tapping screw. Subtle!!! G. [quote name='Kongo' post='526724' date='Jun 28 2009, 02:20 PM']What idiot would wear off the head of a truss rod nut? I mean, it's not a cross head, Allen keys slot in... I have never changed one though.[/quote]
  5. A few years ago I attended a small gig at the Edinburgh Fringe which was Flamenco/Jazz fusion - don't ask me who was doing it as I don't remember, but what I *do* remember was that we ended up with 3 guitarists & 1 Jazz bassist and it was a bloody good night. G.
  6. I've picked up a Peavey Cirrus V BXP from a pawn shop which is almost perfect except.....the truss rod nut's reamed - and I mean knackered. I managed to get some movement on it and make the neck playable before it finally gave up the ghost. Anyone got any suggestions as to: How to remove the old nut? What size the thread might be? Where to find a replacement? If I can get this done,it'll be a steal. Geoff
  7. [quote name='LeftyJ' post='524510' date='Jun 26 2009, 07:39 AM'](USA-made ATK's with an innovative steel H-beam instead of a trussrod).[/quote] Just a note to say that Hagstrom was doing 'H' beam necks back in the 60's............. Geoff
  8. Pics to follow. Started out thinking about an 8 Ohm 2 x 10 to go with my 1 x 15, but circumstance has led me to a 15, so looking for a swap of the empty Ashdown 2 x 10 in good condition for an equivalent lightweight/compact empty 1 x 15. Pictures to follow. Geoff
  9. I've DR HiBeams on my fretless and really like them. I have Roto Compressors on my Jazz and really like those too - they're not dissimilar. I have a set of Compressors standing by for the 5 string for when the Warwicks wear out. G.
  10. Lovely old Bass!!! My first guitar that played *really* well was an Antoria Les Paul Black Beauty with Tree Of Life on an Ebony fretboard. I was young - I was stupid - I sold it........ But I wish I still had it!! I've seen a couple go on Ebay over the last 4 or 5 years, but not at prices I could afford. By the way, I have a spare pickguard that might fit that if you're interested!! Postage only - as a welcome to the 'Antoria Club!' [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=51936"]http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=51936[/url] Geoff
  11. I must honestly tell you that this does not accurately fit a proper P bass - the Kays were very approximate. EG look at the shape of the heel socket - it's virtually square. I have no idea how much it's worth - that's why I put it up for offers. I know a certain seller in Germany who might try to sell this for about £600!!!!!!!!! G.
  12. I've just joined a new band & playing stuff I'm more happy with (kingazera.net) but the other middle-of-the-road band I'm in is really starting to get to me. I'm not going into detail, as the guys are decent blokes individually, but the skill level is sadly lacking. Since the blues band I was in, Spellbinder, folded around 2 years ago, I've really missed playing the Old Blues & R&B stuff. Anyone looking for a bassist for a blues/R&B band within striking distance of Loughborough? G.
  13. I've just put a set of flats on my P and they sound great. I've found the key to many of these problems is to cut the nut with a pronounced slope back toward the machine heads. This gives a positive 'witness point' to terminate the vibrating length. Also, make the nut slot wide enough so the string isn't really tight in the slot. G.
  14. Couple of Japcraps pickguards: First one, I think this is the original from a Kay P bass I sold on here a few months ago - I found it down the back of the workbench!!! This one is off (I believe - Jon, where are you?) an early 70's Antoria/Ibanez Jazz copy/lookalike? and the plus one.......... a 9 hole MM pickguard: Offers please! Geoff
  15. Normally, when asked about a first fretless, I recommend that the person has a look on Ebay for a Westone Thunder Fretless. I have a Thunder IIIb, and it's superb in every way that matters. The 1a's are pretty inexpensive, but unfortunately there are none on Ebay at this moment. G.
  16. May I, Sir, humbly draw your attention to the following? [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=49411"]http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=49411[/url] Thank you. G.
  17. I've got an identical pickguard to the above, if anyone's interested.... G.
  18. Ewe Are My Sunshine.................. Only Ewe................ I Will Never Find Another Ewe......... Ewe and the Night and the Music................ G.
  19. I regularly use a 40W soldering iron, and it's fine. G.
  20. Get an MXR-80+ - it has two channels & two volume controls. G.
  21. [quote name='john_the_bass' post='494916' date='May 22 2009, 09:56 AM']Is that a slightly later one with those pickups and bridge? I had an early f/l Thunder III as well, with a P/J config[/quote] Yup, as has already been stated, this replaced the P/J config. I find the tonal qualities amazing. The neck pup is still a P, but in a rectangular shell, while the bridge is a 2-spool humbucker. There's a switch which does series/parallel on both pups simultaneously. The Volume knob pulls up for 'out-of-phase' when in combination. The middle knob is a passive treble roll-off. I use it quite a lot. The end knob is a really peculiar active pre-amp which has an active/passive switch. From the central detente, turning anti-clockwise boosts bass frequencies, and turning clockwise cuts bass and boosts mids. To my ear, there's not very much of a treble boost, anyway, it's just right for the Pino Palatino sound - well, at least I can *sound* like him, even if I can't play like him!!! I picked this up with the original case in my local Cash Converters about 3 years ago for £140.00, so I'm well pleased with the above evaluation. G.
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