GuyR

That’s a great score. If it plays as good as it looks, it’s a winner. Very good pictures too!

I have a couple of guitars with quite fragile nitro finishes. I only use the moisture in my breath and clean off with a soft cotton cloth. Anything wetter than that leaves the surface cloudy, having absorbed the water, for months afterwards. I tried saliva on one of my basses and the finish came straight off, down to the yellow undercoat. I always proceed with the utmost caution these days.

I was in Martin Petersen’s workshop looking at this in the auction catalogue online. When he built it to special order, he had to have bespoke strings manufactured. He thought he might have some still tucked away, so probably worth getting in touch. He commented that it was a little unfair of GH to not have mentioned the scale in the catalogue. Cool bass though, hope you can adjust to it.

1966 slab precision for sale at GH auction in march. An interesting lot, number 394, with a good provenance. Cant seem to post a link.

I think some people heat the head of the screw with a soldering iron to expand it and break the grip of the thread as it cools. I’m sure there are other techniques.

That is an authentic looking bass. I would be inclined to give it to a professional to get the bridge off. luckily, period replacement parts for mid 70s Fenders shouldn’t be too prohibitive if required, but I think the bridge plate could be made to look ok if cleaned up. Congratulations on a handsome purchase.

https://www.guitar-auctions.co.uk/sale/234/147/1971-Fender-Competition-Mustang-Bass-guitar-made-in-USA what a shame - a really good looking mustang. Why would you do that to the scratchplate? it’s been made “player grade”

Couldn’t agree more. I’m referring to buying instruments already fitted with replacement parts.

Agreed. To me, players grade means something irreversible has been done to the instrument, fundamentally and permanently reducing the desirability as an original example. A refinish or body route alone would render an instrument “player grade” for me. A combination of “lesser sins” such as changed tuners (worse if extra holes), changed electric components, might attract the description player grade, but if so, there is hardly a vintage Fender ( I’m concentrating on 60s here) that is fully original, without some minor component, or frets replaced. It is a simple matter to substitute components like-for-like with period replacements and it isn’t too great a concern for me as a buyer. If a seller volunteers such information at the point of purchase, my confidence in the integrity of the instrument is enhanced. I’m still taking it apart, of course..

In my opinion, it’s more likely to be a warranty neck replacement or bitsa than a factory original. 2 years difference in neck & body dates for a standard production model would create enough doubt to prevent me paying the value of a full original, as it inevitably would were you to sell it on. It wouldn’t stop me buying the bass, but I’d make clear before trying it what my position money wise was. There will always be another matching numbers bass to buy if the seller won’t be reasonable.

Working fine

I have had two jazz basses professionally defretted. One rosewood board in the early 80s, which had the frets filled with fillets of a darker wood. It was fine for 30 years and I subsequently had frets reinstated by Bass Gallery. It’s still fine. Board did need a little levelling. I had a modified 62 Jazz bass which had in the past received a new incorrect maple board. I had that replaced with an unlined Brazilian rosewood board which looked lovely. I never connected with it but was not out of pocket when sold on. I recently acquired a lovely 70 maple board Jazz bass, which I’m very pleased indeed to have had the opportunity to buy. Maybe the attack is a little more “snappy” than rosewood. Maybe. I don’t think the fingerboard choice is too high on the list of factors that affect the tone. What would I do in your position with the benefit of hindsight? Sell the Squier for the best price you can and buy a used Sire, Tokai maybe a Westone or similar unfashionable fretless bass. In modification, You’ll spend significant money on your current bass and reduce its value at the same time. In addition, you will create an opportunity to go bass-shopping. Never a bad thing.

My current Jazz Bass contingent, captured for posterity. Jazz Basses are absolutely the best!!

He can clearly read the neck date, pot codes and serial number on his 1961 VVT Jazz Bass.

I don’t assume the expertise of anyone making definitive statements about vintage Fenders. I’m simply interested to know the source of your information, being keen to improve my level of knowledge if you have access to information I don’t. I have all the usual written material so yes, please do share a list, that would be much appreciated. I’m certainly not after an adversarial exchange, quite the reverse, I’m always keen to know more and I don’t consider myself more knowledgeable than anyone else here. The Blasquiz book has a perfunctory half page entry about the first version Jazz Bass where the opening statement is that the first version was introduced in December 1960, when there are neck dates as early as July 1960. He may have met Leo Fender, but his opening statement is wrong. There are multiple examples of pre-December 1960 Jazzes. We are all open to making an error. Re the late 1961 VVT examples, assuming the changeover of concentric-VVT wasn’t the last day of 1961, I don’t recall having seen a 1962 concentric pot model and all the 1961 VVT examples seem to have 1961 dated pots and late 1961 body/neck dates. Do you think the Andy Baxter examples are modified? Seems a lot of trouble to go to in order to reduce the value of your bass. I’d genuinely be very keen for you to share your insight into evidence of modification to the Andy Baxter 61 VVT examples Like everyone lease, I’m keen to be better informed.