thinman

Dolphin friendly.

Jim responded to a wanted ad here and sold me a very nice 8u rack case for a very reasonable price. A good man to deal with.

[quote name='obbm' post='299771' date='Oct 5 2008, 10:12 AM']Make a very short XLR-M to XLR-F lead with the screen disconnected, i.e pins 1. This will isolate the phantom volts negative rail from your amp. The DI lead will get its screen from the mixer. Be sure to mark the cable clearly and keep it short so it doesn't get used as a mic lead.[/quote] Sounds like a cheap and practical way out.

I'll be wanting to plug my head into our mixer soon via its DI out as we'll have enough PA oomph but we the phantom power on the desk is only globally switchable and we need the phantoms on for a couple of condensor mics. Is it likely to be a problem for the heads or do they generally have caps or transformers on the output to isolate any DC?

They're no Nirvana and like many retailers they're not exclusively cheaper than anywhere else and their prices have been hit lately by the poorer Euro/pound exchange rate. However, they do offer a good service and some of their lines are very good value if you're on a budget. They're often worth a look but it's still worth shopping around. As you've noticed it depends upon what you're after.

[quote name='spinynorman' post='271408' date='Aug 27 2008, 11:10 PM']We seem to spend a lot of time at gigs trying to get a decent volume out of the vocals without feedback. It usually comes right in the end, but always feels like trial and error, despite all the stuff I've read about how to do it with EQ. So I was wondering if a feedback suppressor like the Behringer Destroyer, or DBX AFS224 would be a good purchase? We're using a Yamaha EMX512SC which has quite limited EQ, so that could be why it feels difficult.[/quote] We had similar problems with foldback feedback so I bought a Behringer SHARC. It doesn't really seem to work that well but maybe it's not set up right. I'm going to get a 31-band graphic now - anything less or just a couple of parametric bands is not usually adequate as far as I know as the resonant frequencies in each environment will vary and normal EQs are too broad to take them down without adversely affecting the sound.

[quote name='ben_eat_pie' post='269781' date='Aug 25 2008, 09:28 PM']i thought that might be the case. I run an ashdown mag 300 head - but it's in the 1/15 combo at the mo. cheers[/quote] Run it into a more efficient 4 ohm cab. I'd suggest a BFM Omni 10! You get a good few more dBs per Watt out of one than the Ashdown.

Just a thought - how about a small scrap of PTFE tape as used for sealing plumbing threads? It should stiffen up the screw but still make it turnable when required providing you don't overdo it.

[quote name='squire5' post='261833' date='Aug 13 2008, 07:17 PM']Thanx Escholl but further to my query,I have installed the pot and now find the volume sweep is confined to the last 1/4 turn of the Volume control (neck pickup control).Also in series mode,the bridge pup control does not operate at all.In parallel mode everything is normal except for the aforementioned volume sweep problem.I may have got the modes mixed up as I'm not sure which is the default.Clear as mud?I followed the diagram from the Seymour Duncan website.Is the pot value critical.Pointers anyone?Ta![/quote] In series mode both pickups become one humbucker in effect so only volume control applies - the neck volume - the other is redundant. I believe that's how S1-type switching works - the bridge volume does nothing in series mode. I've just bought a MIA control plate with S1 switching from a chap on here that I'm about to fit to my Jazz so I'll confirm that when I've done but I expect there's loads of people here that can confirm it sooner. As regards the sweep it may be that you have a linear taper pot where really you need a log or audio taper type.

[quote name='planethead' post='257264' date='Aug 7 2008, 02:50 PM']I started my omni 10 yesterday and am now covered in glue! Probably nothing new but this is what I've learnt in 24 hours. 1) if you don't have a table saw then the cutting guide and sled are a must 2) ensure your cutting surface is as stable and level as possible - my improvised support system means I now have to keep going back and shaving pieces off to make things snug 3) if you ignore 2) get ready to use more glue! 4) Found the horn panels and braces very tricky to clamp (note 3 above) 5) I could only get 12 mm (7) ply so I've had to move one of the horn panels slightly to preserve internal volume - which I'm sure is OK (isn't it?) 6) that stuff about measure twice cut once - don't forget it ;-) Not looking for enormous power handling so went with the 2010's and didn't bother with tweeters - probably too old to hear anything above 500hz!!! ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ (this statement is in fact a preamble to my latest gripe (cutting 'engineers' who insist on 're-mastering' old recordings by 'refreshing' the audio in order to add more HF than was ever intended) - but I'm not hijacking your thread so... good luck with your build TTFN[/quote] Errm - what's wrong with 12mm 7-ply. That's what they're supposed to be built from. Get some latex gloves for when using that glue or you'll look like something from Quatermass for about a week.

[quote name='clauster' post='255189' date='Aug 5 2008, 10:48 AM']I'm going to go back to the plans to see if I can get a widebody cab out of one 8 X 4 sheet of ply though.[/quote] You can - I made mine the width of the crossfire version but with a straight 4 piezo array but you have to adjust the cut plan in places. If that's too bright you can always use the switch or use your EQ. If it's not bright enough an 8-element melded could be retro-fitted. Ididn't make a separate piezo box so had to ensure the backs were all sealed up with silicone - there's quite big gaps around the horn screws. I didn't break my drivers in first and it was really noticeable how it improved with use so bear that in mind when you first use it. Other tip from my mistake: If you're putting handles on the sides don't put them in the centre - they need to go further back so that it's balanced. It'll make it a lot more comfortable to carry. I imagine with a Titan sub (which I'm just about to start on for PA use) you'd have to use a crossover and probably bi-amp given the impedances. Good luck though. PS Unless you're really tidy (which I'm not) get some latex gloves. That PL glue don't come off too easily and people look at you like you have some horrible disease.

I use a TFPro preamp/compressor. I think Joe Meek/TF are the same company. It's great - dumped my Ashdown dual band for it.

[quote name='bass_ferret' post='249332' date='Jul 28 2008, 08:34 AM']I was asking because I have a theory that Ashdowns rep for wooliness is due to their 1x15 cabs.[/quote] I'd agree wit that. All the threads on the subject never really differentiate between the heads and cabs being used. I've used a MAG head through an Ashdown 1 x 15" and it could be described as woolyish but not through a BFM Omni10.

[quote name='rohan' post='247817' date='Jul 25 2008, 01:54 PM']I'm looking at castors for my cab but have no idea where to start. All I know is that they need to have a single screw hole fixing where the rubber feet already are. Cheers![/quote] There's specialist places like www.bluearan.co.uk but you might save some money by looking at somewhere like www.screwfix.com.

[quote name='labougie' post='247335' date='Jul 24 2008, 10:13 PM']Funds available? Ha!! This is probably going to be the same thing everyone’s heard a squintillion times before. I’m too old to lug around anything bigger than a pair of 1x12s and indeed, 2 12s ought to move a lot more air than a single 15. Two BFM 10.5s would be excellent from a size pov, but again, I’m a bottom end John McVie/Rick Danko sort of player and I’m not sure they’d give me what I’m after. I’ve got Bass Box Pro to help me sort out a cabinet design, but I can’t seem to find any 12” speakers with fs 40 and xmax 6. Is there (affordably) such a thing?[/quote] I replaced an Ashdown 1 x 15 with an Omni10. Once the drivers were loosened up the Omni10 bottom end was far superior. I think it's a fallacy that larger drivers always give a better bottom-end response - there's too many other factors to make that always true.

I was chatting to a neighbour of mine the other day who originates from Yorkshire and I got round to mentioning that I play bass in a band. His first question was: "What kind of 'Leppard and 'Jovi do you play?" Apart from being totally dumbstruck I couldn't work out if it was a sad indictment of his musical exposure, a sad indictment of the Yorkshire amateur music scene or a quote from "Phoenix Nights". Anyone else had such a strange reaction?

[quote name='jonkilleen' post='244144' date='Jul 20 2008, 11:30 PM']I have the above as my kit. I find it great but I think it's in need of a service. I brought it 4 years ago and it was secondhand. I would like to get to serviced and the 1048H cleaned up - remove of dust and the like from the main cabinet. Does anyone know what is involved with a general service and if anyone is able to do this in the Bristol area? Any idea of cost? My kit I feel is expensive so I would like to know of capable people who know what they are doing and not leave me with usable kit afterwards. Any help is appreciated Jon[/quote] Jon, I do have a beef about amp "servicing". There's been a few threads about whether they're worth it and obviously this is only my own view. If the amp seem stop be working OK you may not need to do anything other than perhaps the following for which you'd probably be charged about £70. However, if you do find something wrong then you may want to take it to an enginner for repair. 1. Gently hoover it out. A smallish, clean paintbrush might help loosen fluff if any. 2. Check any cooling fans are working. 3. A bit of Servisol may be applied to the jack sockets but, again, if they're not noisy I'd leave be. 4. Pots. If not noisy I'd leave them alone. Some people like to put a squirt of Servisol in them but some are packed with a lubricant and Servisol can wash that out. 5. Unless it's more than 10 years old not a lot else - maybe check for any corrosion or electrolytic capacitors that are leaking or bulging - get replaced at once if they are. (I'm assuming it's all solid state - if valve then you may want to contemplate some replacements which for power valve replacement is usually a techy job).

[quote name='Happy Jack' post='242897' date='Jul 18 2008, 04:53 PM']Yes, I wondered about that, but I figured that I was using a specialist bass amp as a pre-amp so all the power amp has to do is take that signal and ... well ... amplify it. Does it actually make a difference to the power amp if the signal comes from a bass pre-amp or a DJ set-up? It still has to handle the same bass frequencies, after all. If I'm being a complete idiot, feel free to point this out. [/quote] I think it's fairly common practice - don't people use dedicated bass-specific pre-amp for tome shaping etc and a power amp to drive the cabs? As regards the Powerline I believe it's quite a budget product but it may do you fine if you don't overload it.

[quote name='Clarky' post='242066' date='Jul 17 2008, 07:36 PM']Hello! Sevenoaks is well posh - stockbroker belt. Must be a MIM Sadowsky [/quote] Posh? Me? No, I just live here to make the knobs feel better about their lot. tBBC is the real aristocracy here though I don't think he's married his sister.

[quote name='obbm' post='242061' date='Jul 17 2008, 07:34 PM']I do recommend that you check that the fans are both functioning correctly. Fan failure can lead to epensive repairs.[/quote] It seems to come down to the point that the average owner should be able to do the most "usual" bits of a service, i.e. a hoover out, check the controls work by widdling the knobs and check the fans. Doesn't really need an electronics engineer. Once an amp gets old though a renovation (rather than a service) may be in order for the components that degrade but I remain convined that most so-called services are not worth it.

Tonbridge & Malling is apparently the most affluent borough in Kent. What's £300? BTW I've got a MIM (really) because I live in the next borough.

I'm not on commission from Bill Fitzmaurice but are you set on a 1 x 15"? I had an Ashdown 1 x 15" then built a BFM Omni10 (2 x 10") and it has a much better bottom end. Better all round in fact. Bill's cabs are also built from 12mm ply rathe rthan 18mm so don't weigh too much if weight's a concern and many of the recommended drivers such as the Eminence Deltalite are neo's so save further weight. A pair of Omni10.5s (1 x 10") would be worth consideration for portability.

[quote name='stingrayfan' post='241336' date='Jul 16 2008, 10:49 PM']If it's a combo, won't it be wired up as 4 ohms? Most are, aren't they?[/quote] The MAG's got a single 8 ohm driver and can take another 8 ohm extension to give a maximum 4 ohm load.

[quote name='ben_eat_pie' post='241280' date='Jul 16 2008, 09:51 PM']i need a bigger amp then! that sounds so darn wettie 180 watts, cheers for the help. I'm going hartke i think.[/quote] 180w into the right cab could be louder than you can stand! It could be as much as you need unless you need impress with statistics. Cab efficiency can vary enormously - so much so that a very efficient cab may need half the power of a less powerful cab to achieve the same SPL. Even with the same cab the difference a 200W and a 300W amp driving it doesn't make a huge difference. Also, cab ratings are usually how much energy a driver can dissipate without melting - not how much they can turn into sound energy. I seen figures to the effect that in a given enclosure a 500w rated cab doesn't get any louder above 100w of input as the driver has reached its maximum excursion. I'd say that in the absence of SPL charts for a cab then use your ears. Amp power ratings and cab ratings don't always mean that much in isolation.

[quote name='ben_eat_pie' post='241261' date='Jul 16 2008, 09:31 PM']hi there, my amp says that it's 300W, but doesn't mention impedance - are we talking 300W at 4 ohms or 8? also it says 575W rms... now how will i get as much as that out of the amp? cheers guys, ben[/quote] Into the original 8 ohm cab I think you get about 180w rms and 307 with an 8 ohm extension cab so that it's running into 4 ohms. You might get 575 peaks. All a bit immaterial within reason.