kevin_lindsay

Cost of the bits so far 2 piece double bound body with humbucker routing (http://www.guitarbuild.co.uk/product.php?prodId=60&category=&secondary=&keywords=) - £140 (the price has now increased to £155) Allparts unfinished neck - £100 Armadillo bridge (http://www.armadilloguitar.com/shopping/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=4) -£90 Scratchplate, control plate, knobs - all from http://www.axesrus.com/ Scratchplate - £11.67 Control plate - £5.43 Knobs - 3x £2.33 = £6.99 Total from axesrus = £24.09 plus VAT = £28.91 CTS pots (2 x 250k plus 1 x 500k) = £13.05 Rear ferrules - £5.00 Strap buttons and felt pads - already had these at home. Black 3 ply scratchplate material for rear cover - £9.99 3 way selector switch - already had one at home. Mini toggle switch - £5.10 for a pack of 5 ((http://bit.ly/U9lhlF) Custom serial number neck plate -£20 (http://bit.ly/Rid9SV) Fender nut - £6.00 Fender telecaster and custom shop decals - £12 Kluson vintage tuners - already had these at home. Nitrocellulose lacquer (http://www.manchesterguitartech.co.uk/shop/category/nitrocellulose-lacquer/ ): White primer - £12 Clear red - £15 Tobacco brown - £15 Clear gloss 2 x £15 = £30 Wet & dry paper £3 Postage = £5 Total = £65 Transparent cadmium yellow nitro lacquer (from another nitro supplier) = £14 Brand new Gibson '57 Classic neck pickup - given to me by a friend. Fender Custom Shop '51 Nocaster bridge pickup including delivery from USA - £39.67 Chris McIntyre custom routing of neck pocket to accept Allparts neck, modifying of humbucker routing, routing on rear of body to accommodate new mini toggle switch, new boost pot, battery compartment and area for Clapton boost circuit, also drilling of holes for mini toggle switch and new boost pot = £25 - "mates rate" or what???? Pick guard screws - £2.50 Telecaster neck pickup mounting screws £4.70. These were bought to allow for fitting the bridge pickup directly into the body rather than mounting it on the bridge plate. Eric Clapton boost circuit £43 Total so far = £624.92 As mentioned above, if I'd had to buy the neck pickup and tuners, the overall cost would be higher. There's also the cost of Chris Mcintyre's work in just over acweek's time - he 'll be wiring everything up, installing all the hardware, fitting and shaping the nut. Cutting, profiling and fitting the custom made back plate. He will then set up the instrument and balance the pickup outputs. It's exciting knowing that everything is bearing completion.

Quick before and after pics [IMG]http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y289/kevin_lindsay/E0762BE6-3CCD-4A3B-8D7E-994AA9FBD700-344-00000026B7336092.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y289/kevin_lindsay/CE49510F-F1D1-41E9-8138-25523C8F222E-344-0000002BEB590011.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y289/kevin_lindsay/6A660E1A-B940-49F5-AC39-D267FB97F40A-344-00000026BC4AFC2A.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y289/kevin_lindsay/963CE33B-4491-4E2B-869D-BF14AAA31D31-344-0000002BE506CA1A.jpg[/IMG]

Protective film is now off the scratchplate. I think I've got the yellow colour on the body looking pretty authentic? [IMG]http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y289/kevin_lindsay/4B0B6023-9FC1-4357-8911-D99B363105E1-342-000000720D833FFE.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y289/kevin_lindsay/37319625-68BA-4294-8A1E-F8CA3E95A585-160-000000120DC830CD.jpg[/IMG] Also, I've put the rest string ferrules in place. [IMG]http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y289/kevin_lindsay/F548342E-322D-40DF-89B1-49BA868A00E1-601-0000004AF8B9AC63.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y289/kevin_lindsay/36AC37E6-D304-4470-A14C-BF45A0FDF92E-207-000000088C5AC97B.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y289/kevin_lindsay/68974A8F-B396-4D64-93F7-E1EA8F33BC36-207-0000000890E0EBB6.jpg[/IMG]

I just had to screw the guard , bridge and control plate in place, and attach the neck, to see how it's going to look once everything is assembled. 2 weeks today until it's going to be fully assembled, wired up, setup and ready to play. [IMG]http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y289/kevin_lindsay/A8013E19-225C-4390-BA87-686A6311DE2D-374-0000004D929D6D1F.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y289/kevin_lindsay/EC17DBBA-D5BF-4480-B46A-1784F8200900-374-0000004D9EBC8CBF.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y289/kevin_lindsay/4FEA070B-E0A0-4CE2-BAE0-FB430525C27A-374-0000004DA3BEF61D.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y289/kevin_lindsay/E2D30B0C-8F14-40CC-A7BD-CA9FBEE73299-374-0000004DB82A9932.jpg[/IMG]

Wonderful! Thanks for posting the link. Incidentally, I couldn't find part 4 via my iPhone - frustrating!

Won't be long now mate!! I'm in the same boat - 2 weeks until my own Andy Summers Tele build is completed!

According to the guys at the Custom Shop, the way the Clapton circuit is wired in the Andy Summers Tribute guitar (as shown in the diagram I posted at the start of this thread) means its an output boost rather than a mid boost.

Andy wasn't sure what the original booster circuit was. It seems to have been a simple booster circuit, but it gave up the ghost some time ago. As the Fender Tribute uses the Clapton circuit, and sounds good, I decided to use that. Also the routing I've had done is tailored for the Clapton circuit board. Anyhow, two and a half weeks until it gets assembled and set up - not long to wait now!!

The black line you see is a replication of the crack in the brass baseplate on Andy's original guitar. The Fender Tribute models have the baseplates split at that point. I'll be keeping my plate intact. Here's a great clip from the Fender Custom Shop describing the features of the Andy Summers guitar: http://youtu.be/2vzStQpEXHQ

I've decided to buff the body up now. That means that over the next couple of weeks, the finish will continue to thin out. It'll also mean that the finish will remain glassy, but with a very slightly aged hue. Should be cool. Do, here's the buffing up beginning. I think it'll look cool when it's done. (All buffing is being done by hand. ) [IMG]http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y289/kevin_lindsay/EB4054D7-6BAA-4F8C-8942-2C38BE447ECD-216-0000000DFDB8471B.jpg[/IMG]

How come no-one has mentioned this classic walking bass line? Queen - Crazy Little Thing Called Love http://youtu.be/EE34cSvZCd8

Low End Bee a that's exactly what I was going to say! It amazes me how many guys boost the low end on the amp in rehearsals and use the sane setting when playing live or in a larger venue. As bass frequencies are omni-directional, they swamp everything else. That's why when you're outside a venue, it's the bass frequencies that throb through the air. Personally, I set the EQ in my Aguilar DB680 flat to give my bass the best chance to cut through. As for the comment regarding P-Basses "cutting through", yup, you're spot on. I love my jazz basses, but on larger gigs, I prefer using a P-Bass to get that middle clank. It cuts through the band sound and sits so well

Looks cool, and it's great knowing that you're enjoying it enough to use in a live setting.

Having to wait until I can get everything tidied up, flattened and glossed, is SO frustrating. I think it's gonna look pretty cool when everything is assembled and set up: [IMG]http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y289/kevin_lindsay/052DABDF-713B-4D6B-BA1E-FB43217C6BFD-499-00000032E9276CA8.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y289/kevin_lindsay/56C2D42E-DAEE-418E-85DA-B36EB4356FAA-499-00000032F42D88E9.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y289/kevin_lindsay/7B342808-8744-4B35-8510-B2522FBDB4D7-499-00000032F8BED79B.jpg[/IMG]

That's the masking removed from the edges and binding. I'll leave the lacquer until tomorrow bag will then clean up the binding. Then, in a few day's time, I'll apply the clear coats. Looking good so far: [IMG]http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y289/kevin_lindsay/A4AD19C8-8E8E-4C8B-8939-1B461BDA4A7D-1091-000000AC9303990F.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y289/kevin_lindsay/08D84822-8EED-4E05-8228-43497D5AD6F9-1091-000000AC8E402C46.jpg[/IMG] André here's a couple taken with the flash on the camera: [IMG]http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y289/kevin_lindsay/0B88969B-1197-4734-BC0A-C6D6C600D374-1091-000000B29EC8D435.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y289/kevin_lindsay/DA3BFB0B-86F1-481B-808A-60CF95EE9769-1091-000000B2A37F0A23.jpg[/IMG]

Here's the rear of the body having the burst applied. White primer applied and then transparent yellow lacquer applied. [IMG]http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y289/kevin_lindsay/B17E7B9F-80CA-43ED-82CF-14E7CA684160-682-00000060B37A4311.jpg[/IMG] Then the dark burst is applied: [IMG]http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y289/kevin_lindsay/3C51B499-BDE6-4BAB-B9E9-4C1B2AC932B2-682-00000060A044E45E.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y289/kevin_lindsay/F87FAAE7-272E-4FBA-A48B-CCBAC4A23E0F-954-0000008C74EEA251.jpg[/IMG] And then the clear red lacquer is applied: [IMG]http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y289/kevin_lindsay/B4A95E81-F37F-4BD7-9E89-BDF2A3C0C14B-1091-000000A18C920537.jpg[/IMG] I'll remove the masking in a short while, then leave the lacquer a couple of days before cleaning up the binding. Once that's done, the finish will be flatted and then clear gloss applied.