tedmanzie

I had a MIJ Geddy Jazz and it was great, but quite heavy - so you should really try to get to play one rather than buy unseen as I hear the weight varies quite a bit. It had the best neck ever! But if you don't like slim (front to back) then you may disagree. All the necks I have ever had have been gloss finish, I don't find it an issue. There are regular negative comments about the tuners and the stock pickups but I didn't find either of those an issue on mine. They are now made in Mexico, but apparently Mexico made Fenders are very good these days. I have not owned another jazz to compare it to, although I was paying a Custom Shop 1964 Jazz the other day and that really did sound great. But the Geddy is long gone so I can't remember what it sounded like in comparison.

All the maple necks+fretboards I've ever owned, guitar and bass, have been gloss laquered. I've seen some guitars with unlaquered necks but they get absolutely filthy!

yes i suppose it could go too light now you put it that way.

My JV Squier P-Bass (57) weighs 7lbs 15oz, which seems to be pretty light for a Precision, and has had the unfortunate knock-on effect of making lots of other basses I pick up feel quite heavy and not to my liking. I had a pretty heavy Geddy Lee Jazz for a while that I basically moved on because of the weight. Now when I look on the forum, 'what does it weigh' is usually my first question... Is there any relationship between weight and tone? And who owns the lightest P-Bass on Basschat?! (and what does it sound like?) Ted

2nd bid is in, it's up to £410! http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/360829381497?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:VRI&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2661

Monday - Experiment with dropping tuning down a whole step, play for a while, adjust to a half step down, eventually decide it was ok in standard tuning. Tuesday - Spend most of the evening making minor adjustments to string height, pickup height, make sure all scratch plate screws are tight. Wednesday - Alternate between my two basses trying to decide which one is best and if you can actually hear the difference between maple and rosewood fingerboard. Thursday - I like to spend thursdays sharing a bottle of wine with Miss Manzie, occasionally interrupting the TV by asking her for an opinion on what strap height looks coolest and if she likes the white or the sunburst precision. Friday - Time to knuckle down and practice! I find the best way to practice is play the wrong notes over Marvin Gaye's 'What's Going On' for two hours. Saturday - Unfortunately the depression brought on by Friday's terrible practice session has resulted in a conviction to sell both basses and the rig. Spend time researching prices on the internet. Sunday - Realisation! It's not my playing that's the problem, it's because I don't have the right bass! Spend all evening looking at Basschat classifieds and listening to clips of Stingrays on YouTube. Monday - Hmmm. Maybe I don't need a Stingray. Let's try dropping the tuning down a whole step...

http://www.bassdirect.co.uk/bass_guitar_specialists/LaBella_strings.html they sell all the others so i'm sure they can sort you out!

It used to be advised to keep your project tracking, samples etc on a separate drive to the system/application drive but I don't know if that still holds in these days of mega computers. I still do it out of habit, but as my HD is much bigger since my last upgrade I now keep nearly all my virtual instrument libraries on the Mac HD. I'm using a NEET thunderbolt to FW 400 adaptor and it works fine here. I work at 44.1/24 bit for everything. If I work for broadcast I convert the file to 48 after mixdown. Most of my libraries are 44 so it works better for me. I see you have Motu BPM - that [i]could[/i] be a really good bit of software but Motu and UVI just don't sort out the bugs, it is [i]so[/i] frustrating. I used it for a project last year out of interest (since upgrading mac and OS to 10.8). It must have crashed about 40 times during the session, it was unbelievable... How is DP with 64bit/32bit plugins? Latest Logic won't run 32bit plugs anymore but I just found something called '32 Lives' which has solved that it would seem.

[quote name='Pete1967' timestamp='1389174312' post='2330792'] Practice strip sanding first if you use that technique, because you can put a dint in really quickly without knowing it and have to start again on a bigger hole! [/quote] that's my worry! stewmac is working on a flat body ding, whereas mine is on the round bit of the horn so i expect this is more tricky. . .

i was going to put a few drops of nail varnish on for colour match (black) and then coat with superglue, so the sanding down will be done on the superglue. what is cyano? i can't find it.

Have you checked out the sellers 'other items'? I don't think there is a rat to smell here, although I guess she could have used the old trick of getting her mate to put the first bid in?! My 73 year old father-in-law is fond of that dodgy technique when he's selling some old bit of crap.

Thanks Mine is poly finish btw. Black nail varnish to colour is a very good tip, and a test area under the scratchplate is another handy hint. Stew Mac fills his ding with coloured acetone which I guess is nail varnish equivalent, and then fills with superglue which maybe is harder wearing? Video is here if anyone interested comes across the thread: [url="http://www.stewmac.com/tsarchive/ts0174.html"]http://youtu.be/rTVScFJoe24[/url]

I don't mind a few dings in my bass but I managed to put a very ugly one on the lower horn of my 3TS p bass It is about 5mm radius, maybe 1 or 2mm deep in the black area of the colour scheme, but its rough so it doesn't look like nice wear, just looks annoying. I watched a stew mac video of him repairing a ding with superglue and sanding it down. it looked fairly easy but these things always do in the videos! Any one tried it? I wondered what to use as black filler before covering with superglue?

I couldn't sell my [b]mint[/b] white/maple JV Precision on here for £650, and someone will pay £400 for this! Maybe I need to drag mine around the garden and leave it in the rain for a few days...

[quote name='BetaFunk' timestamp='1388935365' post='2327778'] Check the thread that you're referring to and you'll see that i have contributed to it. If you had read it it could have saved you the time to post your comment. These basses were cheap in comparison with other Fenders at the the time. I know that because i was around then. They aren't any better now than they were when they were cheap. We now live in a world where most things retro in the guitar and bass world are worth a lot of money. It's fashionable to have a JV guitar or bass and people fall over themselves to be on that train. It's always been the same. In the 60s you could buy an old grey army coat for pennies on any army surplus shop until the hippies started wearing them and then they were asking £££s for them in Kennsington Market and not because they kept you warm but because they were fashionable. [/quote] I disagree with some of your assessment I am no expert but as far as I'm aware the JV's were built as exact replicas of the vintage 57 and 62 instruments, although only the very first ones were finished in nitro. I thought the USA Fenders of the time were not very good, and I thought that they re-started production in the mid 80s having learnt from the Japanese factories how to improve the manufacturing and quality control. My 1987 US strat is very well made. I have two JVs and they are both better than the more recent MIJ 62p that I have also owned (and sold). I also much prefer them to nearly all the USA Ps I have tried in shops. They also have a good mojo about them being 30 years old and all that. I am no virtuoso bass player, but I think for £600 to £700 a JV is a great instrument for not a lot of money. I disagree that its a fashion thing, as the Squier brand now is decidedly unfashionable and associated with cheapness! However I would definitely NOT buy the bass under discussion in this thread for £400!!

£400? This still leaves you £100 spare to buy an A-string

No one seems to agree on why shimms are used and if they work. There was a big thread on here a while back with seemingly knowledgeable people arguing for hundreds of words completely opposite points of view. I've talked to a luthier who thinks they are a waste of time and a luthier that doesn't. For what it's worth I have two JV P-Squiers and one has a shim where you describe and the other doesn't. I'm not sure if the shim was fitted at the factory or later on. I just leave it alone!

About 25 years ago I found someone in Loot (remember that?) listing an Ibanez TS808 overdrive pedal for about £30 - a pedal I particularly wanted. I phoned him up and arranged to come over and collect, but in my excitement I told him that I 'was really pleased to buy it as these pedals are becoming quite rare.' Sure enough he phoned me back in an hour and told me he had decided to keep it.