P-T-P

Thinking about getting a couple of the MarkBass pedals but a little put off by the whole 12v DC supply thing. Anyone know if they come with a power supply? Also, the consumption on some of them is pretty high, which makes me concerned I would have to have sperate supplies for each rather than a daisy chain jobbie. Anyone know of a power brick that can provide power to 3 or 4 of these pedals? Thanks.

[quote name='martthebass' post='714185' date='Jan 15 2010, 07:11 PM']The DJ5 was my first foray into 5 string P. Before that the widest neck I'd probably played was vintage P type (1.75") at the nut but I'm generally happier with 1.625" (Ray/Modern P bass). The neck width and flatness just made it feel like a plank to me. The thinner neck on the Sandy and SR5 was more comfortable to my hands. I'm aware that many players find the DJ5 to be Nirvana - just not this one. Guess I'm just not a 35"/19mm guy.[/quote] Interesting. For me, I like the fact that the Lakland necks feel like they have the same protportions as a 4 string, just made bigger to accommodate the extra string. I personally disliked the Sandberg 'cause it felt a bit too chubby. Horses for courses I suppose. From what you've said though, I don't think you should be too put off by 35" scale though as it makes for only a minute difference in the distance between frets. The "length" of the neck, and by that I mean how far away the nut is, isn't going to be affected by scale length as such. That's going to be determined, more than anything, by the shape of the bass' body and in particular the upper horn extension and the placement of the bridge in relation to the edge of the bass. For exampe, the nut on a Lakland JO5 seems a little further away than on a DJ5, but the DJ5 bridge is closer to the edge of the bass. A Warwick Thumb 34" scale is going to make the nut seem miles further away than on either of the previous two because the upper horn only comes out to about the 15th fret (if that).

[quote name='martthebass' post='712549' date='Jan 14 2010, 01:55 PM']Main problem I've had is finding the right one. Lakky DJ5 - found the neck/string spacing too wide and scale length too long.[/quote] Not saying you're wrong, because if that's what it felt like to you that's what it felt like, but that's something I would never have imagined someone saying about a DJ5. What bass did you come to the DJ5 from? [quote name='Musicman20' post='713508' date='Jan 15 2010, 10:59 AM']I have 5 4 string basses and I have my first proper 5 string in mind. IMO, you cannot go wrong with the Lakland 5 string neck. I have smallish hands but I picked up a DJ5 and I could play really quick! Nice n comfy.[/quote] Exactly!

It's easy enough to get used to the presence of the extra string if you've got time to just play. It's easy enough to learn to incorporate the extra 5 low notes (assuming BEADG tuning). The biggest challenge, I think, is bringing the rest of the B sting into play which is where you really get the most out of 5 strings and something I still probably don't do enough 15+ years since first making the change. One bonus I do find with 5 strings is that when you pick up a four string, they're loads of fun. Kinda like driving a mini instead of a big car or something.

[b]Love[/b] Maple fretboards Unlined fretless boards Lakland oval bridge Old school Fender custom colours - shell pink, sonic blue etc. Block inlays and binding (as long as they're real inlays, not stick on type) Seriously bird's eyed maple necks sometimes found on MMan basses Brown tortoiseshell pickguard on 3TS Fenders (and similar) Cherry sunburst Colour matched headstocks Gold hardware, but only on white or black basses [b]Hate[/b] Strat type jack sockets (that means you, Warwick Rockbass Streamer Standards) $$ EMG pick-ups 5 in a line tuners (Fender, that's you) Inappropriate tuners - eg Gotoh type on a Fender-a-like headstock (Yamaha particularly guilty of this one) Gold hardware on blue bass - wrong Lake Placid Blue P-Bass type knobs on a passive jazz bass Top hat type knobs on anything Gibson Les Paul type knobs White pickguard on natural or sunburst bass Scratchplates that aren't white, black or tortoiseshell - certain solid or mirror colours may be permissable in special circumstances

[quote name='Musicman20' post='709835' date='Jan 12 2010, 11:42 AM']Lakland make some very nice Fender/Stingray type basses, with brilliant build. They are not US made, but they are up there with the high end basses for finish, etc. Dont let it put you off that they are not US made. IMO, the Lakland 5 strings are the easiest/most comfortable 5 string basses to play out there.[/quote] Just to clarify, as the OP may not be aware. Lakland "Skyline" basses were Korean made (recently changed to Indonesian made) and then shipped to USA where the electronics are installed, frets dressed etc. and since last year, they get Plekked (sp?) too. So they play like a dream The QC is supremely good and customer service second to none (e-mail them and you'll likely get a mail back, personally, from the boss of the company). Lakland also then have their US range which are impeccable, but very pricey (second hand you're looking at £1500 at least). The Skylines are, arguably, 90% of the bass for about 40% of the money. I would put my DJ5 up against pretty much any bass and expect it to hold it's own. I've yet to play the current crop of Fender US basses, which are reportedly extremely good quality, but prior to that, I'd have gone for Korean made Lakland over a US Fender any time.

If you're genuinely unsure and don't have time to shop around, Fender US second hand jazz or precision in black or sunburst in decent cosmetic condition without mods for £550-£600 and if you don't like it, you'll sell it on without losing any cash. Something to bear in mind with basses, there's quite significant differences between models that may or may not suit. A Fender P Bass and J Bass are as different as a Strat and a Les Paul are. Maybe find an hour or two to go to a shop with a few different basses and try as many as you can in that time and come back to us to say what you liked and/or disliked about the different ones and we'll figure out a more tailored suggestion.

[quote name='thisnameistaken' post='708980' date='Jan 11 2010, 04:02 PM']Bear in mind that's a 35" scale, might feel very long to someone coming from guitar.[/quote] Not really, pretty much every 34" scale Warwick feels like it has a much "longer" neck because of the body shape and how far the top horn extends (or doesn't). Scale length doesn't necessarily put the nut further away from you and the Lakland 5 strings do a remarkable job of hiding the extra inch. Unless you were moving from 34" fretless to 35" fretless, I daresay you'd not even notice it.

Lots of good advice, but for me there are really only two answers with your budget. A second hand US Fender Jazz will cost you in the range of £500 to £650 depending on the condition and age (talking 1990s basses on here, not vintage). You can play a bunch until you find one that grabs you or you can buy the first that comes along safe in the knowledge that you'll almost certainly be able to sell it on without losing any cash. Alternatively, the best value for money bass in that price range is, IMHO, a Lakland 55-01. Really well put together instruments that play and sound great. They'll comortably sit in pretty much any style of music and hold their own and the fact that it's a 5 string will give you a bit of added range you may well find useful if covers is what you're playing.

I thought it was hideous when I saw it early last year but it has grown on me. Don't think he'd have a problem playing the Buzzard, he never had an issue playing Lakland DJ basses on the 2005 tour (or indeed the JO and BG prior to that). He also had a Stryker in the studio when they were recording the last album. My guess is Warwick said "can we build you something" and he told them he wanted a cross between the two. As to the critics of his playing... he's an easy target 'cause some of their biggest hits have featured basslines that were eighth note pumping but he's done plenty of nice bass work if you care to dig a little deeper. It may not be spectacular, mind-blowing bass playing but it does show he's more than a one-trick pony... Mysterious Ways Two Hearts Beat as One Stand Up Comedy I'll Go Crazy If I Don't Go Crazy Tonight Wire Last Night on Earth Lemon New Years Day He plays in a band where the guitarist rarely plays traditional chords or arpeggios and the drummer has a fairly busy, often military style and the singer's often off on one. Someone has to keep it together and he does that really well. The comments from other band members about his playing is a long standing story dating back to when they were kids trying to get the band going. Clayton knew all the muso terms and looked like he knew what he was talking about, had a bass, had an amp so it took them forever to figure out the reason they sounded so crap was the fact that he actually couldn't play a note and had no clue. He (or maybe Bono) described his early playing style as "bluff." I think fair enough if you don't like what he or the band does, find it boring, uninspiring, contrived or whatever, but don't say he can't play, 'cause he can. In fact, much of what he does is actually a really good example of the key roles of a bass player - outline the chord progressions, lock in with the drummer to create a groove, support/compliment the melody. Give me the four notes of With or Without You over a heck of a lot of the bass playing that gets lauded on this site any day of the week.