Jean-Luc Pickguard

I've just rediscovered my long-neglected daisy rock daisy rock elite bass, which is basically a schecter in a skirt. I set it up at the weekend and have been playing it a lot over the last few days. The duncan-designed soapbars and active eq can make a lovely clanking rock tone through the micro cube RX even with an old set of thomastic flats. I'd prefer it to have a bolt-on neck so I could shim it, but I've almost got the action as low as I'd like. Its cool to see schecter/daisy rock similarities in that the model T has 'piano-key' block markers shaped like the pearloid ones on my daisy rock and the eight string schecter has a daisy rock headstock shape.

Halfords stock JB Weld - they also sell a metal epoxy putty which looks interesting.

Cheers Ped. I never though of filing the groove deeper in the BBoT-style barrel saddles, but it sounds like a great idea. I'm using a spare set of saddles on the bass at the moment which will be easy enough to replace if I do make a mess of it so I'll try that. I don't have access to a router and sinking the bridge into the body isn't a reversable mod so I'm not keen to try that, but thanks for the suggestion HZ.

I've been setting up my old daisy rock stardust elite bass. Its has a gibson-style set neck & a hi-mass fender style bridge with barrel-shaped saddles. The relief is set correctly and to bring the action down I've had to swap out the bridge saddles for ones with a smaller diameter. The action is still a tiny bit higher than I'd like - particularly on the E & G, and the saddles are all almost touching the baseplate. Also the grub screws are protruding out the top of the saddles between 3 & 5mm which could be a hazard if I catch my hand on them. If this was a bolt-on I'd whip the neck off, chuck in a slither of card and it'll be job-done, but as it is a glued in neck that isn't an option. I do have a spare badass II, so I could try repacing the current bridge with that, but I expect I'd need to file the existing slots a fair bit deeper, which might ruin the saddles. Or I could try to get some shorter grub screws of the correct type and file the bottom of the saddles flat so they go lower. Or maybe file the bottom of the saddles and put a bridge cover on - eg one the cheap ebay copies of the ones Gibson had on their 60s basses. What might work best? Any better ideas?

Gibson has sold the Cakewalk brand & assets to bandlab https://cakewalk.bandlab.com/

This hasn't just been hit by the ugly stick, I think it actually might be the ugly stick.

Writing the word status on the headstock of a cheap & nasty 70s plywood Jazz bass copy that probably belongs in a skip (or was found in one) does not make it a status. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/status-vintage-bass/152910250941

If the bass will have a solid finish, get whichever is cheaper if there is a price difference but ash will look much nicer with a sunburst or clear finish.

Blimus he's also selling a racist money box collection https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/11-x-VINTAGE-CAST-IRON-MONEY-BOXES-STARKIE-CLOWN-DINAH-RINGMASTER/132503719119

£350 for a woolworths jedson telebass - hilarous!

Junk! The tuners are back to front - except for the wacky 'G' tuner where the baseplate is overlapping one of the others. It looks like this has been put together by someone who doesn't understand the basics of how a bass works and didn't plan the project properly. What are the odds that it is impossible to intonate?

I pronounce it correctly as 'Epiphone'

This condition of payment, the no returns policy, and the disclaimer about it being left in a garage seems to suggest that the seller might know about an expensive issue like a twisty neck. I'd explicitly ask if he's aware of any faults and insist on checking it out in person, then pay by paypal if thats what he wants only if it is OK.

I've variously used separate pedals and changed to multi fx for previous bands, but never mixed the two - ie when I used the Boss GT-6B or Zoom B3 I didn't add any separate pedals, however for my current band I'm using my VT bass which I prefer to anything similar in the B3 but I also need a compressor and a boost pedal. I don't own a separate boost pedal so I'm replacing the stand-alone compressor with my zoom B3. Its always struck me as odd that the input & output sockets an pedals are on the right & left sides respectively so chaining pedals means the signal goes right to left, however on the B3 the FX go left to right, so putting the B3 with the VT bass means the signal flow is not represented in an obvous way when looking down at the two pedals. Obviously this is not a massive issue, but it does seem a bit weird. So why do pedals have the input and output on the opposite sides to where they should be, and if it is the standard for pedals to feed the signal from right to left, why do multifx units chain their separate fx in the opposite direction?

Looks like they've been put back to later in the year - possibly due to the rosewood fingerboard. I expect the ones that come into the UK might have Pau Ferro fingerboards like the PJ mustangs. Looking at some of these on a google image search shows that the 'road worn' wear doesn't seem as grimey looking as the first images that were released

If there;s no phase issue, wiring in a series/parallel switch to be able to switch the pickups in series (like the Fender S1 switch) might help make it sound more beefy.

https://www.gumtree.com/p/guitar-instrument/electric-violence/1284068747

An iRig or similar interface will do the job on an iPad. An iPad 2 is quite old so make sure you can install the free version of the amplitube software on it first. http://www.ikmultimedia.com/products/irig2/ I don't tend to use my iPad for practice much as I'm wary of catching one of the the cables and yanking it onto the floor. I usually practice to music on itunes on my MacBook - either with my bass plugged into a focusrite scarlet solo interface with one of the IK multimedia amplitube ampeg bass amp emulations, or if I'm not using headphones I tend to plug into my Roland Microcube RX amp.

You could use it as a short scale by detuning it & putting on a capo at the second fret.

If a gigbag is an option, the Fender urban shortscale bass gigbag is nicely padded and very well made & no more expensive than a decent long scale gigbag at about £25. I used to take my mustang around in a jazz bass gigbag which was OK but not a snug fit, but this shortie-specific bag is perfect. https://www.thomann.de/gb/fender_urban_short_scalegig_bag_bk.htm

I've certainly never had to attack the saddles on a bass where they're not individually adjustable for height, but the option is there.

good for metal?

Not if you own nut slotting files or know anyone who does. Here's how a guitar's tunamatic bridge's saddles can be individually adjusted for height - I expect it'll be similar for bass saddles. http://www.stewmac.com/How-To/Online_Resources/Hardware_Installation/Are_you_supposed_to_slot_Tune-o-matic_bridge_saddles.html

That reminds me - The Rock Garden in Covent Garden, where the Apple store is now, sometime in 1989 when my favourite 'glow in the dark' curly cable went missing. I think someone in one of the other bands must have purloined it when my back was turned.