PlungerModerno

I'd laugh - but it just makes me sad. An EB-0 deserves better.

They work, but take a bit of fiddling to get right, and are an extra stage in setup (like intonation - how far the D drops is has to be carefully dialed in for the string in question.

[quote name='Kev' timestamp='1447114387' post='2905070'] High Gloss is a custom option for all Warwick master built instruments, and I believe is standard on some of the cheaper Rockbass instruments (used to be on the older Pro Series basses as well?). Strictly speaking, the Masterbuilt German models are all custom order now, so its just a finish option in addition to their natural oil and coloured oil finishes. [/quote] Good to know - IME a good oil finish feels better, but from a distance and in a photo high gloss looks stellar. A 2k clearcoat is as hard wearing as you can get though - without resorting to a carbon fibre wrap or the like!

Looking good so far - should look great when finished and buffed up. Just my impressions, but due to the body shape being less "fugly" or distinctly Warwick (to my eyes at least), and now it's being given a high gloss finish - won't it look a lot more Alembicy? After a little image search it appears some people have been either refinishing their Infinities or getting them custom made with a high gloss finish. . . nice:

I find the major difference is with fingerstyle - your plucking finger can hit the B string whereas on a 4 it tends not to. It can be audible, especially if you play aggressively or hit the string with a fingernail. Aside from that each bass tends to feel and sound a bit different (slight variation in setup, electronics, dead spots, and the wonderful variety from the playing of course!).

[quote name='40hz' timestamp='1446759064' post='2902208'] If you're going through necks at that rate then I'd suggest a Status graphite neck replacement!! My Standard Mexi Jazz has had 5 years of hard abuse and the necks still immaculate! [/quote] +1 That and some hum cancelling pickups if you've not already had the delight of making the switch!

Someone has seen an alembic, but wanted a more cost effective option.

Pretty sweet attention to detail - if the photos are anything to go by. Probably better to play this one standing methinks!

It's a mosiac according to the truss rod cover . . . Which according to this: [url="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kMHwKjoqGko"]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kMHwKjoqGko[/url] Means it's a wooden necked instrument - Judging by the price it's also the import model - i.e. not made by Zon & Co. Should still be good, but one would be advised to check the current price of a new one before sinking 13 hundred US dollars or the equivalent into it!

If it's what you're looking for I guess you could call it a steal . . . For me it's more like the price of a decent used bass + rig.

Now that I think about it I have 3 basses wearing D'Addario strings - Tapes, Flats, and rounds. And another with Elixers! They make good sounding strings. Unlike a some manufacturers their quality control seems excellent. Will buy again.

[quote name='JJW' timestamp='1446748820' post='2902068'] I was actually just curious about the pine because I cut down a tree in my garden which was pine and I have started making a guitar from it and I was wondering if it would sound any good. [/quote] Might - might not. Truth is how good it can sound depends on a lot of things. For an acoustic it's pretty complex with the flexibility and tuning of the soundboard (and sound post for traditional designs). For a solid body it's much simpler. I estimate At least 80% is the electronics and strings (including preamp, pickups etc). The rest is mainly hardware and setup (how well the nut is cut for example, or how well the strings "break" over the nut and saddle). If the wood stays put and doesn't weigh too much it's good in my book. I also love the way it looks and feels with an oil finish.

+1 to the writing being an eyesore - but unlike the 12th position marker on the sting signature fender: A gloss white paint or opaque sticker could cover the writing almost invisibly!

[quote name='Muzz' timestamp='1446713114' post='2901586'] Love it. If you're gonna relic something, do it properly... [/quote] +1 Reminds me of these: (but with a relic / destruction twist)

Uh Oh! Tonewood Fight Seriously though - spruce is used for a lot of acoustic soundboards and pine (and other fairly similar woods) are used in a wide range of structural and decorative situations. If the piece of wood in question can hold the hardware on, and it's in sufficient thickness to not flex to much in use (i.e. suitably braced hollow body or suitably thick & wide solid body) - you're good to go. If the wood species effects tone it's subtle - I'd look at lots of things like strings, electronics, bridge, nut, frets, wood density and stiffness, wood mass, wood moisture content, and wood flaws (like voids or knots) before I'd look at species. That said some woods vary more in their mechanical properties than others - pine being a good example. Looking at the shot of the bridge the annual rings are fairly widely spaced - meaning the wood is probably fairly soft and not very dense. If there's hardwood plugs glued in where the screws attach it could work perfectly though.

It's not . . . awful - the strings and the pole pieces haven't been painted - also the screws were masked off or taken out prior to the speckling. Reminds me of these:

What Manton Customs said Of course it all depends on the finish you're aiming for. If you want the classic "mirror" high gloss finish - sealing all the pores is essential. One of the most efficient ways of doing this is with a filler - but depending on the finishing technique there are a few ways I've seen turn out lovely (but haven't tried myself). Using Danish Oil and sandpaper to create a grain filling slurry for example - or using clear epoxy to fill large pores before sanding flat and finishing as normal. If you're going for a solid colour I'd just go for a high fill primer if it's fairly tight grained - use filler if it's got some unevenness or large pores. . .

3rd that. Phenolic resin should buff out with polishing compound - Ask him what he'd recommend, and don't break out the wet/dry sandpaper till you get pro advice! Oh and if you do use wire wool or sandpaper - mask off the pickups & controls! that grit or especially conductive wire can cause issues.

[quote name='Twincam' timestamp='1446606797' post='2900792'] ....Nuts really don't need strong glue to stay in place and a little goes a long way. [/quote] +1 Either use a minuscule amount of regular glue or a dab of something very weak (like nail varnish or another paint).

Cool! Were it to be mine it'd have to have that "patch" knocked back and colour matched to the wood, even if it's a solid patch, it could at least be approximately the right colour. Unfortunately it won't be mine - a Pre EB Stingray is a little out of my budget for the forseeable future.

WOW! Gotta love a good "[font=-apple-system-font, serif][size="4"]Tortoise Relic Guard[/size][/font]". Extraordinary value. On a serious note - take a look at some of the other items from this seller: [url="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Tritonus-Telecaster-Esquire-Tele-with-Floyd-Rose-Relic-Vintage-Guitar-/121802280328?hash=item1c5bfb4d88:g:lHEAAOSwYHxWM~TK"]http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Tritonus-Telecaster-Esquire-Tele-with-Floyd-Rose-Relic-Vintage-Guitar-/121802280328?hash=item1c5bfb4d88:g:lHEAAOSwYHxWM~TK[/url] Pretty creative use of paint. Not sure I'd want one however.

[quote name='yorks5stringer' timestamp='1446478405' post='2899648'] Not sure why he does all the upselling spiel about the Bass, when it is really just firewood.......? It may have a mono rail bridge but given there are no strings and the neck is f*cked, does the 'strong sustain' really matter? [/quote] I think it was just copied and pasted... but they do emphasize that the electronics aren't ruined - which is a central selling point. Maybe if they offered the electronics & hardware separately it'd be a more appealing purchase.

[url="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/IBANEZ-BTB776-6-STRING-ELECTRIC-BASS-GUITAR-BARTOLINI-PICKUPS-/331694078745?hash=item4d3a81fb19:g:3GgAAOSw9mFWMWCH"]http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/IBANEZ-BTB776-6-STRING-ELECTRIC-BASS-GUITAR-BARTOLINI-PICKUPS-/331694078745?hash=item4d3a81fb19:g:3GgAAOSw9mFWMWCH[/url] Ouch. A little duct tape and some new strings and it'll be good as new I'm sure!

[quote name='JPJ' timestamp='1446229078' post='2897999'] Be careful with this method, it works, but if you run the tool too quickly you will melt the pickguard rather than remove the material. Junior hacksaw and a good round or half round file is your best bet. [/quote] +1. A sharp kinife can also be used, but only if you're good with one. Plastic is tricky sometimes (can chip or crack). Best to use a file or a sharp saw hack saw with light pressure to avoid damage to the plastic. If you have / get a dremel tool or other mini multi-tool - remember they are a speed not a torque tool. It can do a lot, but very little at a time. Go slow, mark your lines, work your way up to them (that applies to hand tools or power tools equally to be honest).

[quote name='Meddle' timestamp='1446071582' post='2896763'] At least he didn't call it a 'barn find', which seems to be standard knackered car parlance these days. [/quote] +1 I've seen a few of those over here recently ("Barn Finds" in the Rep. of Ireland). It's got to be worth something to a restorer - but as it's not in running condition and the "fantastic condition" interior looks neglected and moldy it's probably not a good candidate for restoration.