PlungerModerno

[quote name='Treb' timestamp='1437954936' post='2830384'] A competent luthier will be able to tell you if it needs that kind of work. Dunno if it affects sound. [/quote] +1 It's not a big decision for a cheap conversion (like my fretless bass) but as this is a pretty valuable warwick neck I'd take it to a competent repair person (somebody who makes & works on violins for example) to inspect the fingerboard wear and recommend corrective measures if needed. Chances are it could benefit from a shave if it has pronounced grooves. Unless the grooves are very deep and, for example 5 mm of the fingerboard will need to be removed - resulting in a significant loss of mass (moving dead spots and wolf notes - or maybe resulting in new ones) - a shave of the fingerboard should have no effect on tone - that can be heard through a speaker. The setup will be different if the neck changes shape (even subtly) resulting in a different feel when "frettin'" - But unless the neck becomes weakened and unstable I can't imagine the tuning, expressiveness or tonal character changing in any way - other than getting better with a perfectly even playing surface!

What strings do you like on instruments you've played (or are playing ATM)? I'm guessing you like flats - "I like playing with flats" kinda indicated that (every so subtly). For traditional thud and decent clarity - I'd recommend the TI Jazz flats without hesitation. They are also easy on the hands due to there flexible nature. I have tried a set of chromes - which sound a bit brighter than the TI's - but come with much higher tension and a more open sounding midrange (at least on a P bass). I'd advise keeping an eye out for semi flat strings - I had good results from a GHS set of pressurewounds - or maybe trying the new EB flats - which are supposed to be lighter tension: [url="http://www.ernieball.com/products/bass-guitar-strings/5511/regular-slinky-flatwound-bass"]http://www.ernieball.com/products/bass-guitar-strings/5511/regular-slinky-flatwound-bass[/url] If you're willing to try rounds I'd recommend trying D'Addarios, Elixers, or Rotosounds - Like 40hz I tend to prefer the sound of NPS (nickel plated steel) rounds to SS (stainless steel).

I'd want to get it clean with the least amount of "soaking" possible - wood expands when it absorbs oil or water - lucky for you ebony tends to not absorb much so you'll probably be OK with just a damp cloth. For stubborn grime I've used a fingernail brush and some cleaning solvent (rubbing alcohol or lighter fluid etc - taking care to not get it on the finish) - which has helped clean up some really filthy rosewood fretboards for me. I've seen quite a lot of different products used (cleaning or conditioning sprays) as well as linseed oil and regular dish soap - all with nice results. I'd just try to avoid using anything that'll be hard to get off - like a hard automotive wax or sillicone based polish spray.

Are you leaving a cable plugged into it? Some preamps drain power when a cable is in the jack - it's the "on switch" on quite a few old & new designs.

Do you know what is powering up? Is it just the front end or is it everything but the speaker out? What amp are you using? Tube, solid state, or both? - does the DI or line in work (if it has them)?. I'm not sure if most amps have separate fuses or circuit breakers for the power and pre-amp sections of the amplifier - if it has the pre could be working but it might just be a single part of the power stage that's gone . . . hope it's just the fuse!

If you can find one used (could be a long shot given how awesome they are supposed to be) - how about an ibanez Mikro: [url="http://www.ibanez.co.jp/usa/products/jumpstart/GSRM20B.html"]http://www.ibanez.co.jp/usa/products/jumpstart/GSRM20B.html[/url]

[quote name='TheKcrimsonKing' timestamp='1437594632' post='2827483'] You know, if someone took the time to do it properly, that'd actually be a pretty cool instrument. [/quote] Maybe - but it'd really be down to the electronics - I'd imagine many 4 string P & J pickups would be pretty lame as 6 string pickups, especially those with regular bridges (with very little string spacing adjustability - not that you'd want to have to adjust string spacing to get the pickups to work right!).

Wierd - but could be perfect for that G'WAR tribute act!

Could be cool for a fan - but it'd want to be a pretty well off fan at that price. Particularly as it's only half a bass (almost no hardware - and half a neck).

[quote name='CamdenRob' timestamp='1436968846' post='2822429'] Total groupies obtained by a guitar line : 73.8million Total groupies obtained by a bass line : 3(ever) [/quote] Yeah - maybe. I'd say those numbers are broadly accurate for rock, metal & country. But groupies don't pay the band. It's about filling the floor, getting the groove going - and selling tickets/merch and of course drinks. I guess what I'm saying is it's a team effort. Bassists tend to not get the lions share of the spoils, unless they're also the front man: Or get a bigger share of the take by extra roles (e.g. running PA, doing DJing after etc.).

Keep the hand relaxed, try to rest it where possible, and try to keep playing gently. If it continues for a while - I'd say try lighter strings or lower action (nut and bridge) and less relief. I find most aches in my fretting hand tend to come from playing too hard. By making the bass play with very low action I've found my right hand can't dig in as much without excessive noise - which helps me keep the fretting hand lighter with it. I've yet to master heavy handed plucking/picking with a relaxed and light fretting hand.

[quote name='Bassassin' timestamp='1436613091' post='2819499'] Not £100 good, that one. However the Schaller 3D tailpiece is rare as **** and probably an easy fifty quid's worth. Jon. [/quote] Didn't even realize those bridges existed!

+1 to the dodgy dealings warnings. Even if it works, even if it's legal - It's probably part of a scam like these units: [url="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i3B_KKyntQE"]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i3B_KKyntQE[/url]

[quote name='Roger2611' timestamp='1436898185' post='2821889'] That be salesman talk I think! [/quote] +1. I'd ask for a little evidence to go with that description.

[quote name='Coilte' timestamp='1436801159' post='2820884'] A true "friend" would not expect you go jump from bass to guitar and back again, just to suit [i]his [/i]moods. [/quote] +1 Doesn't matter if it's next of kin or a lifelong friend. If the band is to be ran as a business and a creative outlet - it needs to be professional. Reassigning members to suit one member is favoritism, and as has been mentioned - if it happens once it'll probably happen again. If you are OK with this hierarchy - you being shunted from role to role based on others preferences, fine. If not - change it or seek opportunities elsewhere. If I was asked to not play bass their [s]wood[/s] would be some 4 letter words shared. If I was asked to switch to guitar I'd probably leave the room to avoid unpleasantness!

[quote name='Count Bassy' timestamp='1398291591' post='2432676'] I would have thought that, if anything, increasing the non-speaking but stretchable length of the string would tend to increase the compliance (perceived as reduced tension), but I can't think that an extra few mm will make a significant difference either way. [/quote] +1. Guitarists & bassists that do lots of string bends tend to prefer 3+3 or 2+2 headstocks rather than 6 or 4 in line tuners for that very reason. You have to stretch more to get a similar increase in pitch on the longer strings on 4 or 6 in line instrument (like the G string on most fender basses!). That's my understanding anyway!.

[quote name='JapanAxe' timestamp='1435943459' post='2813903'] No, this is the stuff that didn't make Sotheby's! [/quote] Still - if it can be repaired or be used to repair a similar model, it'll be a smashing combo.

[quote name='kodiakblair' timestamp='1435875860' post='2813339'] Absolute steal. The criminal undervalue of Peavey strikes again But then someone is going to be very lucky [/quote] +1

[quote name='discreet' timestamp='1436022154' post='2814414'] Isn't that Burgundy Mist? I like it. [/quote] +1 I think it's nice. I also like the neon pink, yellow and green Dean basses . . . painted fretboards FTW!

Very nice. I think ovangkol looks nicer as a body wood than a neck wood: But I have seen nice ovangkol necks on some warwick instruments. Have yet to try one. Not sure how it compares to bubinga when it's used for a body. The wenge neck on that corvette is gorgeous, both the laminate neck and the fretboard often look amazing when made of wenge like the stock selected by the purchaser at warwick whenever the wood was bought. The sweet piece of bubinga is a nice vivid contrast to the deep brown of the wenge. I imagine while it can't sound exactly like a thumb (doesn't have the angled rear pickup or the 2nd bridge pickup) - but it has an advantage over the thumb - a far more conventional neck pickup placement - allowing for fuller sounds. Part of the reason if I was to grab a custom warwick (money being no object) it'd be a $$, a corvette, or a Guy Pratt sig (the one with two sliding pickups).

[quote name='discreet' timestamp='1436021144' post='2814401'] That's very kind of you, thanks! But I'm in London so it may be impractical... How does it play? I'm assuming a P neck is heavier than a J neck - are you noticing increased neck-dive? [/quote] Well given that a Jazz body is usually about 15 - 20% heavier (IME) I very much doubt it! This may be just that I've had some heavier Jazz's but I think the extra pickup adds a little mass to the bridge area (depends on the pickup - some are lighter than others. In general 2 Jazz pickups are about twice the weight of a split P pickup).

[quote name='Doug_C' timestamp='1436016236' post='2814356'] Thanks Cocco. Would anyone comment on if there are any up or down sides to the bolt on or thru neck, and would the ebony cap on top of mahogany on the LTD make much difference to the tone? [/quote] Ooooooooo as cocco said. Wormy can time! There are 3 camps. . . definitely makes a difference (that can be heard amplified), definitely makes no difference (that can be heard amplified), and those who aren't sure. When it comes to construction - how the neck and body are attached, in my view, as long as the joint is rigid and the bass can be set up well it won't matter. Bolt-ons can be shimmed easier, but through necks can be 100% ergonomic. I can think of no advantage that a set neck might have. As far as tone or sustain/decay go - it can't be a dominant part of the basses sound (unless the neck joint has flex and instability when the bass is strung). my 2c, feel free to make up your own mind. When it comes to wood - or choice of materials - I would say it makes a difference, especially in acoustic or semi acoustic basses. But it's largely down to the cut and shaping of the wood, and the grain - not simply the species. Wood varies too much within a single species for it's species to be a key factor (as opposed to the properties of the specific piece of lumber - e.g. density, elasticity/springiness (and in which direction) and moisture content). When you amplify a bass (piezo or other mic system) the wood's influence comes into question. Where a soundboard is used (hollow bodies) I would say the wood & construction of the soundboard probably still make a difference. With solid bodies or hollow-bodies with a solid block (to which the pickups are screwed) it's probably no longer a noticable factor in how a microphone or piezo pickup sounds. For magnetic pickups it probably doesn't make a difference in tone as long as the pickups are potted. Hard to say it makes no difference, but it's almost certainly not an important or audible one. If the magnetic pickup is loosely mounted or attached to the soundboard of a hollow-body - it may behave in a microphonic way, but for solid bodies - wood is about the look, weight and durability IMO.

If you like Ibanez guitars . . . Check out Ibanez basses! And the good news is you can find them used for a lot less than new, and if you don't like it you can sell it on for what you payed for it.

Here's a tip that I found useful: Very cheap pincers tend to be made out of fairly soft steel (it steel, and it's a tool, but It's not what I'd call tool steel!). This makes grinding it flat more practical - takes less time than if it were harder, tougher steel, and it can be done by hand in a reasonable amount of time (I used 80 grit sand paper & a flat file took me 20 - 40 minutes but could be done in 5 if you were aggressive enough!). If it's a relatives tool - don't interfere with it (that sounds so wrong). Get a cheap tool, or a tool made for the purpose. Or make one yourself, if you have the time and the skill!

Were it me . . . I'd do the capo trick. For a 34" scale bass - from the 1st fret to the bridge is roughly 32" inches. From the 2nd fret is a little over 30". See if you like it. I find it a bit loose with the light gauge strings I prefer on 34" scale instruments. Feels nice with 45 - 105's though (with a capo on the second fret, with the bass in D standard).