PlungerModerno

It's a nice looking bass. Were I in the market I might be tempted - but with that upper horn & body finish missing I'd be asking for a lower price. I'd probably refinish it in white or cream (like a vintage white).

Had to do a search for this - Here's one I like and want! [url="http://basschat.co.uk/topic/263645-nbd-relayer-bass-0002/page__fromsearch__1"]http://basschat.co.uk/topic/263645-nbd-relayer-bass-0002/page__fromsearch__1[/url] Davis Custom Guitars, courtesy of TomRichard on here!

[quote name='neepheid' timestamp='1435768473' post='2812294'] When I dismantle anything, I try to keep track of which screws came out of which holes. Dunno why, probably OCD or learned by dismantling laptops with their myriad screw sizes. [/quote] That is something I've had . . . fun with in the past. Screws that have the same thread and bore, but slightly different lengths, or screws that look the same at a glance but have different threads so get jammed if they get mixed up . . . FUN!

+1 to the above replies. Increasing string gauge will increase tension when tuned to the same pitch (while keeping the string construction and scale length the same). Short scale instruments generally work better with standard strings (which feel looser than on long or super long scales) or heavier gauge strings (should feel close to regular gauge on a long scale). I wouldn't try very light gauges (e.g. 35 - 85) on 32" or shorter - you may prefer the feel however. As for sound it will all depend on the string construction, setup etc. As I understand it longer scales tend to sound more "focused", and by trying different strings on 34" scales and shorter I would say that lighter strings sound a bit bigger and deeper - but that could be the way I'm playing reacting to the change in string tension and stiffness.

Howdy Rocker! Welcome to the place. It's a good spot, hope you enjoy it! I've learned a lot from here, and most of it was true! When it comes to amps & cabs - I'd recommend starting a topic over here: [url="http://basschat.co.uk/forum/5-amps-and-cabs/"]http://basschat.co.uk/forum/5-amps-and-cabs/[/url] - you'll probably get a good variety of suggestions about your question.

[quote name='Woodinblack' timestamp='1435700608' post='2811703'] It is a very good design as long as you pay attention when assembling! [/quote] Ah. That would be the issue. I'd have used two different size screws in length and bore (e.g. an extra 1or 2 mm on the screw shaft or screw head diameter?). I'm sure there's a way to do that.

I'd love an ACG, Wal, Sei or Rim - But I'd really like a Status graphite. Alembic would be something I'd love to try too. Number one however, would be a Chris Larkin Semi-Acoustic Bass, like a coss between . . . and

[quote name='neepheid' timestamp='1435681254' post='2811400'] Design flaw, or pay attention when dismantling/reassembling? [/quote] If it makes the neck joint easier to play at or beyond then it's a great design.

Unless there is evidence of a short (i.e. significant drop in pickup resistance) I'd look at a straightforward re-potting. Best way to get rid of any feedback issues. If you feel like a change, try other pickups all you like - but keep the originals with the bass. Repotting them shouldn't effect resale value - probably increase it (like a good refret is worth more than wore out frets).

Take the strings off - if you want to reuse them you can do it carefully. I like to take them out of the bridge for better cleaning but you can leave them in if you choose. Get some cloths or paper towels, a little water, naptha (lighter fluid), or Isopropyl alcohol - depending on the finish type and condition. Do not marinade. Really dirty pickup covers, bridges, tuners, etc - clean up better when off the instrument IME. Proceed with care, especially if it's important to you.

The strings are . . . troubling. Half glad, half sickened that I took another look at the pictures. Two words. Strap buttons.

Cool info - I've only ever seen the 3 pickup version of this, and never knew they did a medium scale version.

What HowieBass said, 99% of the time the truss rod needs some tweaking after drastic weather change on some basses. The C4H is a wenge neck with a rosewood fretboard right? IME Multi-Laminate necks are more stable and react less to the weather. Depends on a lot of things though. Wood is funny stuff.

Depending on the thickness and type of finish applied - I suppose it could work. If it's a very thick finish I'd want to get rid of most of it (unless it's a solid colour - in which case I don't mind thicker finishes.

This guy?

If you've got the dosh - go for it! I'm trying to finance a bunch of things including a project bass, so I'll stick to muting using a combination of my hands and nice & cheap foam rubber!

Not the late, and great, Jack bruce (but still pretty cool IMO): [url="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eEhpj6FbdVE"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eEhpj6FbdVE[/url] [url="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9LDHjsZy8L0"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9LDHjsZy8L0[/url]

[quote name='paul_5' timestamp='1435454111' post='2808987'] One word of caution though, rosewood splinters really easily, so don't rush the fret removal otherwise you'll end up with ragged edges to the gaps, instead of lovely straight ones. [/quote] Aye, but sadly as rosewood is so varied in it's properties between fretboards. That plus they are usually unsealed and the environments humidity and temperature can effect it's brittleness and tendancy to grip the fret tangs. I recommend using heat from a soldering iron to soften up the frets seating (& any glue in the fret slots).

Interesting. Never worked on a bass neck with binding (other than a clean and polish) - but I have defretted a rosewood fingerboard with decent results. I used walnut veneer and CA glue to fill the fret slots. That tool should work - but it's all in the detail. I took a very cheap (i.e. fairly low quality) set of pincers - and filed/sanded/ground the face to an almost flat edge... Like this guide with pictures: [url="http://munix.dk/tutorials/instruments/refretting-fender-jazz-bass-guitar-diy"]http://munix.dk/tutorials/instruments/refretting-fender-jazz-bass-guitar-diy[/url] Unless you're working with mandolins or 24+ fret guitars with frets almost on top of each other a small (or medium) pincer like the one above will work great if It's sharp without too much of a gap between the edge of the tool and the face, like below: The inlays should be fine, as long as they are glued in well, and the fingerboard leveling and radiusing (and subsequent finishing - I used CA glue with decent results) is done with care (go gently when sanding, careful not to let the wood, binding or inlays heat up too much and warp or fall off!)

My view is, depending on the body style, it's the most sensible way to lay out a bass for most players. Excluding Reverse T-bird shapes and other very asymmetric shapes intended to hang differently, the bridge should be as close to the end of the body as possible to create the most portable and easiest playing instrument for most players. IME with a 32" scale Westone, which has the bridge moved rather than the neck shortened the full 2" from 34" versions, like the one below: It hangs a little farther to the left than my 34" scale P. It's very playable, but If I were to do one major mod, it would be to move the neck pocket and the bridge roughly 2" right as it hangs when being played.

Never new these existed! [url="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rare-vintage-1970s-Epiphone-ET-288N-bass-guitar-/301668951178?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item463cdee48a"]http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rare-vintage-1970s-Epiphone-ET-288N-bass-guitar-/301668951178?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item463cdee48a[/url] [url="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Epiphone-Scroll-Bass-Final-Price-Drop-/271888906291?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3f4dd77833"]http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Epiphone-Scroll-Bass-Final-Price-Drop-/271888906291?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3f4dd77833[/url] The second one might make an amazing project for an experienced restorer!

[url="http://www.ebay.ie/itm/1993-Fender-Medium-Scale-Stu-Hamm-Urge-Standard-Bass-MIM-Excellent-condition-/161727933866?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item25a7bc6daa"]http://www.ebay.ie/itm/1993-Fender-Medium-Scale-Stu-Hamm-Urge-Standard-Bass-MIM-Excellent-condition-/161727933866?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item25a7bc6daa[/url] I think it's cool . . . not sure about the price now the electronics are all replaced though.

Somebody has seen what Geddy Lee did to his P bass. Probably felt a strange inspiration. [url="http://www.ebay.ie/itm/Ibanez-SR500-with-Bartolini-Pickups-Modified-Teardrop-Bass-Guitar-/171811031113?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2800bc4849"]http://www.ebay.ie/itm/Ibanez-SR500-with-Bartolini-Pickups-Modified-Teardrop-Bass-Guitar-/171811031113?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2800bc4849[/url]

[quote name='Coldflows' timestamp='1435414766' post='2808585'] I'm quite sure I have no idea what your talking about :-P [/quote] Quite. This is an "inspired by" rather than "based on" bass design.

OK - that is sweet. Love the colour - only thing I'd be concerned about is the pickup selector switch position. May not get hit accidently - I suppose it'd depend on the player.