PlungerModerno

[quote name='Cameronj279' timestamp='1427593371' post='2732189'] There are certain things that would stop me from buying a bass. 1: weight. I had a bass that weighed over 6 kilos once. sounded fantastic but even at 20 years old my back and shoulder couldn't handle it. [/quote] Ouch. Unless you're big and strong, and have perfect posture & technique - or play seated! [quote name='Cameronj279' timestamp='1427593371' post='2732189'] 2. Number of frets : I never feel totally 'at home' with a bass that had less than 24 frets. [/quote] Fair enough - It is a nice symmetric way of arranging a fretboard! [quote name='Cameronj279' timestamp='1427593371' post='2732189'] 3. If it was a p-bass. I just seem to naturally dislike the sound of a p-bass. [/quote] I assume you mean passive P's, not the active PJ's or things like the Tony Franklin fretless PJ : [url="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xxgf2gg6cQ4"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xxgf2gg6cQ4[/url]

[quote name='Roland Rock' timestamp='1427571681' post='2731917'] This is all very useful, as I'm going to be selling a bass for the first time ever (!?) soon, so want the ad to be as informative as possible. I have no idea re. tuner ratios though! [/quote] If you have the type of tuner - e.g. Hipshot ultralite or schaller m4 etc. it should be plenty. A description of the tuners, like do they tune accurately, do they hold tune well etc. is as important as where they came from. To be honest if they're original tuners it can be difficult to be sure! [quote name='paul h' timestamp='1427573768' post='2731939'] I start with colour. Everything else is negotiable. [/quote]

[quote name='Annoying Twit' timestamp='1427566479' post='2731827'] I agree with HappyJack. This is all useful information that sellers/manufacturers should really add to their advertisements/listings/product descriptions. [/quote] +1 - a good selling point for many hofner, ibanez, gretch, and others is their consistently lower weight than other brands. If I had a product with an average weight of 8lbs, and my rival is around 10.5lbs at the same price - I should make it known that my product is always - for example - less than 8.5 lbs. Given a lot of older and younger players, not to mention those with injuries and long sets, look for low weight instruments - it's silly not to advertise the positive points of the product.

I'm with people on the above things - namely weight, balance, string spacing (and the -/+ values if adjustable), tuning gear ratios (27:1 is a lot more precise than 12:1), Set neck or bolt on, Shielded or unshielded, hum-cancelling or not, scale length, nut width, neck thickness (ideally at 1st fret, 12th fret, and body joint) and things like truss rod type (ideally including the hex or socket type and size). Basically the basses could come with a simple data sheet from the maker to help inform the buyer exactly what's in store. I'd rather know the basses weight than the wood they say it's made out of (often varies in practice). Similarly I'd rather hear a recording of the pickups and know whether the cavities are shielded than the model and brand, and whether they use cloth wire. But that's just me.

That's sweet - The new fingerboard and binding is a little dazzling against the much much older finish - but with strings and a polish it'll look a real treat. That "racing stripe" is very groovy!

That looks like top notch work. Nice work with the roundover.

I'd probably go with the status - But that's largely because I've been GASsing for a Status Streamliner since I first saw them . . .about 3 or more years ago! Can't justify the funds yet though . If you have the dough, there are lots of custom and exotic options from both companies. I'd go based on tone, ergonomics, and lastly looks.

If it's a fender neck - I'd go with a fender-like body. I'd consider a tele style body if it has a tele style headstock - but I'd be more looking at this: for inspiration than this: As the extended upper horn will work a lot better with a 34" scale neck.

As far as percentages go - I look on it as a convenient fraction. i.e. 50% = 50/100 or 1/2 or one half. 110% = 110/100 or 11/10 - an improper fraction, and sounds weird when said "One hundred and ten percent" or "eleven tenths" - But it makes sense, as icastle said: it can be used to describe an increase in something, for example: [i] We sold 1,000 novelty balloons last month, The month before we sold 500.[/i] [i] So last month sales increased by 100%, or were 200% of the previous months sales.[/i] Upon reflection - if someone says they're giving 110% - it only tells you they're giving an extra 10% on top of what they were giving before. Sounds better to say "I'm giving it everything I've got" or "I'm giving 100%".

Lots of these are annoying. I'm always wincing when someone uses "I could care less" when they mean "I couldn't care less" - As a simple single negative you think people would learn to make some sense. I can handle then/than or farther/further etc, simple misuse of words that can be easily mixed up in conversation. As long as the logic is close, I'm not gonna complain. It's very telling when written down however. People using poor spelling, grammar or the like when communicating is frustrating and makes it hard to take them seriously, especially if they only know one language!

[quote name='EliasMooseblaster' timestamp='1427215925' post='2727384'] How close are you trying to get? I'm listening back to a track we mixed last weekend, on which I played a fretless bass guitar with flats - I suspect if this was played to an audience, those who didn't play bass might mistake it for an upright. On the other hand, another bass player would probably recognise it after hearing a few tell-tale signs, so I guess it depends how convincing a disguise you need! [/quote] I'd say this is it. Different uprights have different characters when played acoustically. Amplified, you can EQ and alter the voice of the instrument quite radically. I've heard great amplified and recorded acoustic bass sounds - and heard great EUB / Electric bass sounds that could do the same job convincingly either solo or in a band. I could probably be fooled, but it would take careful setup, amplification and technique to fool someone who played upright bass, especially if the bass was very clear in the mix. I'd start with a fretless, and try different flats and tapewounds till I got a sound I liked. I'm guessing piezo pickups could work, but I'd want magnetic pickups too!

[quote name='dannybuoy' timestamp='1427136858' post='2726303'] Sounds similar to Yamaha's special vibration treatments to the BB2024/BB2025 line! [/quote] I thought they did all that at the factory - before finishing and after joining, to de-stress the wood. Somewhat plausible, but not really practically demonstrable. With this gadget I can't see it doing a whole lot, with wood being pretty rigid once it's dried and set with glue and a sealed finish. With modern, fairly cheap wood kilning techniques, even a cheapish bass, with a decent piece of wood (not green or totally unsuitable due to the grain patterns and oddities) should work well. I can see an acoustic instrument opening up when being broken in from new - I've heard the way strings break in from playing, and how speaker cones / drivers break in after a few hours at volume. But for an electric instrument, I don't see a plausible change between a vibrated one and a new one, save for wearing out components with metal fatigue if the vibration is very intense or the exposure time is very long. My 2c. There are worse things, with much less evidence on the market, like special crystals that claim to magically cure disease.

Nice work

Seriously sweet. Very nice woods - the flaming on the fretboard is gorgeous. Personally I'd prefer a less ostentatious 12th fret marker, and the reverse of the headstock, but that's just me. Lovely colour scheme, Looks like top quality work.

[quote name='thebrig' timestamp='1427051733' post='2725144'] I still enjoy BC and will continue to log in to it most days, but I really don't understand why people get so upset by people who have opinions that are different to theirs, and start arguing and insulting them personally. [/quote] +2

[quote name='j0lly j' timestamp='1426970276' post='2724343'] Thanks dude [/quote] You're welcome!

That's a minty Eagle. Very nice

A Fairytale ending. I hope it lives another 30 odd years at least - with the player loving every minute! A new lease of life for a legendary instrument. Enjoy

[quote name='Paul S' timestamp='1426951479' post='2723916'] Under 8lbs, 32" scale, black body, bwb pickguard, maple neck, passive with S1 switch. Anything else is icing. [/quote] +1, But I'd go with Jumbo frets, light tuners, and a well contoured body.

This thread is . . . entertaining. I like the way rickenbacker basses look - especially the 4004 and the like. They are a bit - odd. I'd need to own one to know if it'd be the bass for me. I know the tone is not ideal for some things, but awesome for others. In all, a bit of a marmitey instrument.

Nice, very nice. A lot nicer on the headstock than over the whole fretboard. Some people like it though, like people who like PRS basses or guitars.

[quote name='j0lly j' timestamp='1426944651' post='2723770'] Hey guys Thanks for the replies so far- really helpful! Who is the Ki0gen contact you mention ? Cant find him here?? [/quote] Here you go: [url="http://basschat.co.uk/user/7835-kiogon/"]http://basschat.co.uk/user/7835-kiogon/[/url] Haven't had the pleasure of getting anything from KiOgen yet - but the reputation is very very good. Approach with confidence .

Yes - it's unfortunate the truss rod had to go bad - but better before than after delivery! Hope it arrives shortly, and without issues.

Well I'll be the first to say it . . . I'm Jelly!

Oh. That's sweet! A short scale 'Ray, of sorts. Bet it sounds wonderful.