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PlungerModerno

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  1. PlungerModerno
    [quote name='BruceBass3901' timestamp='1420716302' post='2652418'] If it isn't a vintage instrument, I would so have a go! By the sounds of it, you have experience with several of the steps involved, so this should be pretty straightforward for you. Would you mind explaining what you mean by '[color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]leaving finish fillet on sides of frets' in step 6 though please?[/font][/color] I will be interested to see how it all progresses Good luck! [/quote] Aye - she's an 88/89 (Japanese Serial H) so It's far from vintage... I'll see what I can do - worst case scenario I'll have to get it professionally refretted. Step 6 - Basically once I've sprayed the coats of lacquer on the neck - front, back and sides (Step 5) - I'll have a good bit of lacquer on each of the frets - can't exactly paint the fretboard without hitting the frets! Step 6 is removing the lacquer from the crown of each fret - first by carefully leveling the frets, then running a crowning file over each fret to give them a crown, then polishing each fret. I won't go all the way down the side of the fret, leaving a bead of lacquer along the bottom of each side of the fret. Kinda like how the fret tang ends are filed flush with the unbound fingerboard edge - then sealed in when the back of the neck gets painted. It's easier to see than explain: [url="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kgKb2lTQKEM&feature=player_detailpage#t=712"]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kgKb2lTQKEM&feature=player_detailpage#t=712[/url] - what he's slicing away at this part of the vid.
  2. PlungerModerno
    [quote name='teddyt' timestamp='1420679752' post='2652195'] thanks guys. to be honest I am really pleased with it,for a budget make it appears to be pretty solid, and today I picked up a BC Rich Warlock in fantastic Condition for £75 though my son has now claimed it!! and has'nt stopped playing it Well I suppose it's my fault as the first thing I said to him was"check this out for me, to make sure it works ok". [/quote] Cool stuff - but I'll bet the Ashton is easier to play sitting down than the Warlock!
  3. PlungerModerno
    Super cool little bass - couple of quick questions: How is the weight & balance? Is this a long scale instrument? (34"). Thanks. Other than a little tarnish and a few dings this is looking very nice!
  4. PlungerModerno
    G&L L2500 Tribute 5 string Electric Bass. 34" Long scale bass with 5 strings, tuned BEADG, Maple neck with a rosewood fretboard. Ash body with nice contouring, in a gorgeous 3 tone sunburst. Can be strung through the body or through the bridge. The tuners are stable and smooth. This is a beast of a bass - two G&L USA high output humbuckers, active/passive switching, with two band EQ. EQ is cut only but works in passive mode. There is also a treble boost mode. From the G&L website: http://www.glguitars.com/instruments/TributeSeries/basses/L-2500_new/index.asp Specification: CONSTRUCTION: bolt-on SCALE: 34" PICKUPS: Two L-spec G&L MFD™ humbucking pickups made in Fullerton, California BODY WOOD: Swamp Ash NECK WOOD: Hard-Rock Maple Rosewood fingerboard NECK WIDTH AT NUT: 1 3/4" NECK RADIUS: 12" NECK PROFILE: medium C FRETS: 21 medium jumbo, nickel TUNING KEYS: Traditional open-back BRIDGE: Leo Fender-designed G&L Saddle-Lock™ ELECTRONICS: Tri-Tone™ system with 3-position pickup selector, series/parallel switch, 3-position pre-amp mode switch, volume, treble, bass Great overall condition, almost new finish with no real marks or dings. slight corrosion on bridge and pickup height adjustment screws. Some wear due to playing but almost new. The Truss rod works nicely. 95%+ of frets left, and the electronics are in perfect working order. This is a moderately heavy bass - about 9.5lbs - but light and well balanced for an affordable 5 string, considering it has full size tuners & a high mass bridge. I'm selling this bass as It's not getting used enough. Comes with Warwick strap locks and a decent gator hardcase - unless these aren't wanted. Can knock a little off the price If I can keep these. - Can supply with ordinary strap buttons upon request. PICS!!!! [url="http://i987.photobucket.com/albums/ae355/plungermode/headstock_L2500_zpsf8c6cd8d.jpg"]http://i987.photobucket.com/albums/ae355/plungermode/headstock_L2500_zpsf8c6cd8d.jpg[/url] [url="http://i987.photobucket.com/albums/ae355/plungermode/rear_L2500_zps0adeb816.jpg"]http://i987.photobucket.com/albums/ae355/plungermode/rear_L2500_zps0adeb816.jpg[/url] [url="http://i987.photobucket.com/albums/ae355/plungermode/Truss_Rod_Shut_zps88c126c7.png"]http://i987.photobucket.com/albums/ae355/plungermode/Truss_Rod_Shut_zps88c126c7.png[/url] Looking for a straight sale but trades considered. Can deliver / facilitate collection - but will post with hard case. I'm based in the Republic Of Ireland. Can include EU postage in cost.
  5. PlungerModerno
    A great example of a great bass. GLWTS.
  6. PlungerModerno
    I'll also add that, Ashton, like many budget brands & makes - can be assessed for weak points (like tuners that slip or a weak output jack), be upgraded - and become a great all rounder. I've a thomann budget bass - a Harley Benton PJ - Aside from the tuners it's great. I haven't replaced them as I picked up a different bass since, but If your Ashton is as good as some of the SX, Harley Benton, and other budget "beginner" instruments - good for you. You could tour the world with gear like that and never need a backup (although you'd probably want one!). Sorry if I'm coming across as snapping at you - sometimes it's hard to convey tone in text. I'm happy for you, and optimistic the bass will be adequate for your learning and performance needs.
  7. PlungerModerno
    As budget basses go - I guess you could do worse. I saw them in shops a few years ago - not sure they were worth the new price - but £30 For a working bass that sound decent and keeps in tune OK - that's very good value.
  8. PlungerModerno
    +1 to icastle's response. Unless it's an acoustic that needs a special length hex key - a generic key set is probably best. I did OK with just a cheap metric hex set (1 - 10mm, with the common sizes in between (like 1.5 mm)) - untill I got a Mexican made jazz. Got a multi-tool for guitars with imperial & metric hexe keys, as well as the gibson size hex socket. It's probably 4 mm truss rod nut, The Ibanez Musician basses were made in Japan - it figures it's metric. Could be 5 mm. You'll know immediately which when you try one or the other. Careful with imperial hexes - a 3/16" hex key will go into a 5 mm hex nut - but it can easily ring it as it's about 0.3 mm too small. Proceed with caution. Tip: examine the socket with a bright light - if it's already very worn it can be difficult to get the key to grip. I recommend replacing worn nuts before they get stuck.
  9. PlungerModerno
    [quote name='Meddle' timestamp='1420592606' post='2651190'] I had a Vintage Stingray clone, and the preamp was a cheapy wee thing pressed onto recycled Chinese cardboard (think cereal box cut to size with markings intact). That must be a £2.50 preamp from the manufacturer and it worked ok! [/quote] For a short term pre - no probs . . . If it wants to be a players bass - a £10 preamp might be more appropriate. You can get a lot of electronics for £10 - if you buy in bulk!
  10. PlungerModerno
    [quote name='Meddle' timestamp='1420583138' post='2651051'] Designed by committee then. Even a master volume + blend, or vol vol tone would be a better setup. In the current configuration you would have to set the volumes of each pickup on full to get the blend to work in a predictable fashion, and there is a bit of redundancy in the circuit. A more efficient design would be volume, blend, passive bass cut, tone. Or,rip all that stuff out and put in a nice preamp. [/quote] +1 cheap but functional preamp with passive bypass & passive master tone would be adequate for 85% of customers - and not add much to the price (£50 at most).
  11. PlungerModerno
    Super cool. Looks like a nice job (Two 3 position mini switches - just perfect!).
  12. PlungerModerno
    Really gorgeous! But I'm a definite maple fingerboard person (esp. flame or any non-birdseye maple). I've a MIJ P bass - split coil variety, but with the tele style headstock. Currently waiting on a refret - but when it get's rockin' again. Japanese P necks do tend to be nice and slender.
  13. PlungerModerno
    Cool shots of the action - 3 popular & influential bass designs covering a huge range of the instruments history. Looking at the pictures, and knowing a little about the basses in question - it's two 5's and a 4. The P is shown slightly closer up (unless it's got a super heavy E string, or is BEAD tuned...). So it should be in the middle as fret sizes go (as the frets appear larger as the image is more magnified?). Soundgear should be big (Jumbo?) while the Dingwall is at the smaller end of the scale. Sherlock Holmes act over. As far as I know the dingwall being the fastest feeling neck is more to do with profile, thickness & width, and action and setup. One of the advantages I'm interested in (and why I'd be keen to explore fan fretted instruments) is to get more even excursion of the string - a 37" Low B is bound to be tighter, and need a little less clearance from the frets (which should, if my assumptions are correct, allow lower action & less neck relief for the same buzzless performance). I'm no expert. I'd need to test a lot of this out with great care to be fully confident in this. YMMV. P.S. The Dingwall "Rosewood" is gorgeous - Morado is it??? I did a quick search and found a Super P with an exquisite board in the for sale section... Pics in the post: [url="http://basschat.co.uk/topic/251265-reduced-to-l1850-dingwall-super-p-4-string/page__p__2649701__hl__dingwall__fromsearch__1#entry2649701"]http://basschat.co.uk/topic/251265-reduced-to-l1850-dingwall-super-p-4-string/page__p__2649701__hl__dingwall__fromsearch__1#entry2649701[/url]
  14. PlungerModerno
    [quote name='Weststarx' timestamp='1420482124' post='2649847'] Voted for by 100 blind bassists... it looks absolutely hideous! [/quote] Say what you like - it is distinctive. I've got nothing against natural finish basses, or non fender headstocks - but I find the non-parallel string paths a bit "unfocused". I can't say I'm a huge fan of the styling myself. Something simple like the below (without the sweet accents on the corners and the end of the headstock, which are somewhat a trademark!) would be more to my taste.
  15. PlungerModerno
    [quote name='weepaul' timestamp='1420474314' post='2649713'] Thanks troops, I see Focusrite do a package (Scarlett 2i2, mic, phones, etc) worth a go ? [/quote] Could be - but I'd look at what cans I was getting - A condenser mic is hard to get wrong, but a set of headphones is a very different matter. If you are willing to take the risk, or have heard good things about them, why not?
  16. PlungerModerno
    [quote name='EBS_freak' timestamp='1420469662' post='2649646'] When it comes to acrylic instruments, this has to be the best thread on the net... grab a cuppa. [url="http://www.tdpri.com/forum/2011-tdpri-tele-build-challenge/263778-scatter-lees-2011-tdpri-build-challenge-thread.html"]http://www.tdpri.com...nge-thread.html[/url] [/quote] Thank you . . . Wow. Just Wow.
  17. PlungerModerno
    Nathan East is a beast. The bass in the vid is awesome, but as has been said - it's probably a one off. There are plenty of custom bass makers who'd be happy to assemble or make such a bass - for a price. I'd like one - but the solid plastic ones tend to weigh a ton. How about turning it up a notch??? take a peek at what's possible, without resorting to 3D printing: [url="http://lamondguitars.com/gallery.html"]http://lamondguitars.com/gallery.html[/url] Now imagine a 3D print with UV luminous plastics, and organic patterns as complex as wood grain. . .
  18. PlungerModerno
    [quote name='smaz' timestamp='1420465358' post='2649580'] Ok, I'm a little confused - there's plastic, resin, graphite, bone, brass, plastic... The options seem endless. I need to replace the nut on a fretless jazz neck (38mm). I've found a bone replacement, and a compound one - resin + graphite. Is there much difference between the types? Is it worth worrying about? Anything to avoid? [/quote] Avoid super absorbent materials like foam rubber or soft cheese - that'll dampen the open notes too much... But on the serious side - I don't think it's that big a deal, like fret material it will affect the sound slightly (but obviously only the open notes in the case of the nut). In truth any fairly rigid and hard wearing material should work - when companies like Yamaha use the same material as their fret wire in a nut* ( it makes me wonder - why not use a zero fret? when you play an open note it will always sound different to a fretted note - no nut material will perfectly replicate the finger, fret and string combination of a fretted note. I've recently ordered a tusq nut (synthetic ivory) and am keen to see how it performs. I've used the fender "synthetic bone" nuts which are grand, and I've also used the cheap plastic ones with no issues - other than they wear out faster - especially on a guitar with a trem. *BB2024X has a nickle-silver nut - the others have plastic.
  19. PlungerModerno
    [quote name='fingerz' timestamp='1420462211' post='2649538'] Good answer!! Great stuff [/quote] +1 I'm guessing that's as sure as we're gonna get!
  20. PlungerModerno
    I think it's much more important on chordal & more tap style instruments . . . like a chapman stick or a 12 string bass (the 12 single string style, not the 4 3's). For bowed instruments like violins, EUBs, and cellos - you need a tightish radius - less than 10" I'd imagine! With an electric bass it's natural the tradition of a radiused board would come into play. However given the fretted instrument comes largely from the world of classical guitar - with near flat, slightly convex (20" radius and the like) or even concave (again with a 20" or other fairly large radius) being the highly functional tradition. I feel unless you bow - whatever works, works. Hell - even if you bow. I find flatter radiuses make fretting the lower strings easier (makes the neck feel thinner front to back). Haven't tried a flat radius bass, or a concave one (If such a thing exists) - but I'd imagine it'll work great. Just don't try a flat radius upright with a bow! unless it's a two string - you're gonna have trouble!
  21. PlungerModerno
    [quote name='icastle' timestamp='1420457139' post='2649451'] Blimey! I can't even begin to imagine what you used as headphones. [/quote]
  22. PlungerModerno
    Glad to hear things are looking up. Enjoy the new project!
  23. PlungerModerno
    [url="http://www.ibanez.co.jp/products/page14_jp.php?cat_id=2&series_id=32&data_id=63&color=CL01#.VKnIgsbreUs"]http://www.ibanez.co...01#.VKnIgsbreUs[/url] Well it says "Made In Japan" .... But I don't read Japanese too good so I'll have to defer to those that can as far as the rest of the webpage goes . EDIT: You were referring to the first post's link to the £725 weren't you . . . now we're just talking about different things, as I was talking about the link in post #20 by Woodinblack - the natural finish prestige (SRFF4505). The link is at the top of this post!
  24. PlungerModerno
    Nice. Very nice. Looks like a lot of very happy punters, and listening to the show(s), or at least a taste of them, I can see why. Smile inducing music - irresistible and timeless.
  25. PlungerModerno
    I found Thomann excellent in the past. They shift a lot of gear so the occasional hiccup is inevitable. . . hope things get straightened out. DHL have a hit and miss reputation - but not bad compared to a lot of couriers.
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