PlungerModerno

[quote name='Spoombung' timestamp='1420449043' post='2649357'] I think this is quite an important and overlooked subject in terms of playing comfort. My preference is for wide, low frets and a rolled fingerboard. That way the bass feels great and you get a minimum of buzzing when playing. It feels like the strings are 'melting' into the neck. I have two basses with thin, small frets and they are much more difficult to play without buzzes. They also feel spiky and sharp on the edge of the fingerboard as they're thinner. I would discourage anyone from banjo frets and thinner wire frets. Go for wiide as possible and low as possible. [/quote] Interesting . . . I hear you on the carefully rolled fingerboard. I converted a bass to fretless - turned out grand but I didn't roll the fingerboard. Even without frets it matters. I need to roll those edges, the bass (a 5 string Cort) had hard corners on the fretboard - and adding a superglue finish to the playing surface didn't help things! at least for the unrolled fingerboard edges & playing comfort. Learned a lot getting it done though. Back to frets - I can't say I notice that much difference when it comes to fret width - at least when it comes to the fret ends feel. The fret end bevel angle (say 20 - 40 degrees) . . . plus a carefully softened edge where the bevel meets the fret cross-section (at both the tops and sides of each fret). e.g: Is enough to make playing slick and easy - with none of that ugly sharpness. As for buzzing, and a "perfect handful" of a bass neck . . . I think it's a combination of setup, neck contour, fingerboard radius, and neck finish - satin is my preferred feel! you are absolutely welcome to disagree or agree as you please. A fast neck to one person is a cramped twig to another... YMMV!!!

I've got the 2i4. Not sure it's worth more to you - I got it for the MIDI channels as well as the extra blend knob (the monitoring on the 2i4 is on/off, there's a input-playback control to balance in & out on the 2i4). The unit works with very little noise in the headphone preamp (only noticeable at the extreme end, common on all fairly budget (& some expensive) preamps).

[quote name='Bigwan' timestamp='1420446331' post='2649338'] With a pretty price tag to match! As a previous Dingwall owner I'd like to try one of these (but would no doubt be disappointed in the ridiculously tight string spacing and pencil-thin neck - but that's Ibanez for you!) [/quote] Yeah, but if it's a Japanese made product, to Ibanez Japan standards. . . it'll be a serious bass.

Not sure about the rack & modules, but I thought it was the two dolomite engines welded together to make a V8 that overheated and warped the cylinder heads? (the one they had in the triumph stag??) See this: [url="https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=b9ztUlve9jc#t=227"]https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=b9ztUlve9jc#t=227[/url]

Sweet. . . what an exquisite piece of rosewood. Will you apply a finish? I feel it would look even better with a medium to high gloss finish. Especially for the headstock and fingerboard!

[quote name='GloopyJon' timestamp='1419940668' post='2644092'] Hi guys, I'm new here. Just wanted to mention that I have an MLB-1 in case anyone's interested I don't know how to post a photo here yet though [/quote] Bit of a stale thread but I'll give my 2c: How's the MLB-1 doing? (I know you said you'd be doing a review in the other, slightly older thread in the last day). To post a video or picture, you can upload a small amount of data to basschat, but to save server space (&cost) you should put any big files (especially vids) onto a dedicated hosting website or service. e.g. vimeo or youtube for vids, and photobucket for pictures. There is a button for links and a button for images in the reply box. At least [s]their[/s] there is on mine (using firefox within a PC, could be different for a mobile user!). Hope that helps. Feel free to P.M. myself or the mods if you're experiencing issues. 99% sure I can help with the obvious stuff, but if it's technical or dealing with personal info I'll have to ask that you direct it to the appropriate staff for assistance. I like it here and would rather not get banned!

Hiya! welcome to the forums, and have fun!

[quote name='Woodinblack' timestamp='1420413165' post='2649223'] [url="http://www.ibanez.co.jp/products/page14_jp.php?cat_id=2&series_id=32&data_id=63&color=CL01#.VKnIgsbreUs"]http://www.ibanez.co...01#.VKnIgsbreUs[/url] [/quote] That's a lot prettier to my eyes!

[quote name='GloopyJon' timestamp='1420414942' post='2649242'] I don't know where you guys got the information from on the nut width. I have an MLB - one of the first batch - and I've measured the nut. It's 37mm wide, and 29.5mm between the top and bottom strings (measuring at the centre of the string) - spreading out to 54mm at the bridge. Regarding the thickness of the neck, it's quite slim, around 18-19mm at the first fret, and about 25mm at the 17th fret, after which it curves gently up to the full width of the body. Top fret access is excellent, I can even easily reach the 24th fret on the E string. It's a lovely bass IMO. I'm hoping to post a video review on YouTube in the next couple of days. [/quote] Cool let us know how it feels and handles - and sounds. The promo vids online are nice - but not enough time spent playing. P.S. use fresh rounds to give the bass a chance. with two humbuckers it'll need bright strings to sound it's best, IMO anyway.

[quote name='Mexicola' timestamp='1420411712' post='2649200'] Looks amazing. Id still rather buy a 60s and two 70s for that price though. Does anyone know how much this would have retailed for in 1952? [/quote] +1 but If I had that money, and tried it, and liked it, I might say otherwise. It's not every day I get to pick up a genuine piece of Leo Fender history.

Think it's a custom jobby... Here are some stills I managed to find... [attachment=180121:GetLuckyBass.png] And some not-so-stills to aid identification: Ok - I managed to get the 2nd & 3rd stills from a screencap from the music vid on youtube. Under fair use, and stating that the music, and the music video remain property of their respective owners . . . it should be ok? EDIT: Compared to a genuine Dan Armstrong - the body is close, the neck is not.

It's time I documented my plans. Partly to get info/feedback, but also to keep the process fairly organized. I have a Fender P with small vintage style frets (which I'm not too keen on), and some neck finish issues. Have a gander... My plan is to: [indent=1]1. Remove the frets, and all loose finish. clean fret slots & soften sharp finish edges with sandpaper. 2. Replace frets with new medium jumbo frets (fender ones, pre-cut & radiused). 3. Clip, file, & bevel fret ends. 4. Install new nut (tusq ivory simulate)[/indent] [indent=1]5. refinish neck (apart from headstock and heel with truss rod nut). 6. Level, crown, polish & finish frets. - leaving finish fillet on sides of frets 7. Set up nut & set up bass.[/indent] Is this an OK way to go about this? This will be my very first refret. I've selected this task as it's a neck that needs finish work anyway, and maple is a lot easier to work with than ebony (not that I'd know) and rosewood (this I know!). It's also about keeping costs low. I'll be using aerosol polyurethane finish in multiple thin coats. I'll test it on a piece of maple first to see it's thickness & drying times. I've invested in a fretting hammer, a beveling file, & will get a neck support before hammering. I don't have access to a press - but this should not be catastrophic on a relatively narrow neck (4 string) with fairly thick, tough fret wire. I have defretted a rosewood fingerboard with almost no chipping, radiused it and refinished it with superglue with decent results. I've leveled, crowned & polished multiple [s]frets[/s] fretboards and am keen to do the whole thing (but not yet ready to cut & make a fingerboard from scratch!). I've watched all 5 parts of this series [url="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kgKb2lTQKEM"]https://www.youtube....h?v=kgKb2lTQKEM[/url] as well as some other vids so I should have the basics down. Let me know your experiences, and advice!

Apologies for the zombie thread resurrection... I have a MIJ Fender P, with vintage frets. It plays fine but the finish on the neck has some odd wear/checking. Take a look: [attachment=180114:7221D891-94C1-45C0-9962-9F0AE10C48B3_zpsajxwmpi5.jpg] [attachment=180115:062_zpsbdd887b2.jpg] [attachment=180116:058_zpsa77877d4.jpg] I think the minor damage to the rear of the neck is honest play & resting on improvised "stands" wear, however I think the odd lifting/checking of the lacquer at the fret ends is a sign of poor lacquering during the finishing [u]OR[/u] a refret job. If it is a refret it was a full refret as all the fret ends have the same weird discolouration due to finish lifting. EDIT: The nut has the same finish issues. I'm going to refret it with medium jumbo frets (fender type) and refinish in a poly spray. I really like the guitar but prefer medium frets (these are skinner and lower, partly as their worn, but also 'coz they're just smaller). I find the fret width immaterial, as long as the fretboard & frets have a decent roundover & bevel respectively. Fretting with minimal effort depends on the action (bottom of string to top of fret). If the frets are very level under string tension, ultra low action with only the slightest buzz should be achievable across the board. I imagine a large part of the preference for shorter frets is a preference for thinner necks (front to back). Luckily the P bass has a nice slim neck and the medium frets (actually medium jumbo) should only have a slight effect.

Cool stuff! Is it the same as this bass I wonder: [url="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xmOZbavSAno"]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xmOZbavSAno[/url] With the wooden saddles!!!! P.S. He said artistry and craftsmanship... now the early P basses were made with care, but they were intended to make money, and be as simple as possible to make. Artistry in design, sure, but in the production floor, it's about getting the product good enough and out the door. That's my understanding anyway.

Interesting - I'd need to try it before expressing an opinion. I agree with skej21, the finish is a bit marmitey (an I no likely either too much!). 35.5", could be a really good low B or F# string length. I think Ibanez must have cost/benefit analyzed different protos, and came out with the dingwall 37" as being not worth it. That may be because of novax fret system licencing, or manufacturing costs as opposed to the 37" scale not being ideal. in any case it's interesting, but probably won't hurt Dingwall too much.

For the low end, just like picking a suitable kick drum . . . Go large acoustic, or amplified, if you want to have lots of lows at medium/high volume. From my limited experience the ABG's I've heard can't compete with the ergonomics, volume and tone of other acoustic instruments (esp. banjos, mandolins, and guitars - those can get crazy loud! with excellent tones). As has been said, If you want the semi-hollow - try it . Don't expect to compete with an upright bass though...

[quote name='Prime_BASS' timestamp='1420131626' post='2645943'] Cheers guys, I will check out the suggestions from Essential Tension. I do play with a pick so I shouldn't find it too hard to play it over a normal bass. Would be nice to actually try out one with my gear before making a purchase [/quote] Cool - Try one out if you can - Kinda like an ibanez mikro (or any sub 30" scale) or an 8 string bass - best to try before you commit. Some online (&offline) stores will take immaculate returns, no questions asked. Best to try with different string gauges & types (flats or rounds) as you get to know the instrument (assuming you love it!) With custom string companies (Circle K?) and brands that cater to the bass VI market you might be able to find a giggable setup. I'd have a dozen stringsets before booking dates. Two dozen if I broke strings regularly. (I'd want to have a few months supply of such a tricky to get item if the music was relying on it!)

Have you tried the old "press the headstock against a wall and see if the dead spot goes away" trick? I've a Jazz with a deadspot (fret 5, C on G string) that does just that. EDIT: Watch the finish! Do it against a poster, piece of cloth or something on the wall. Also don't forget to see if the dead spot moves!

[quote name='cytania' timestamp='1420144332' post='2646140'] Clearly an indication they are getting out of the bass business! Quick, time to panic buy Precisions like there was no tomorrow [/quote] Good advice - pick up as many CS basses ASAP!

Well they're totally different kinds of basses (& The iceman is a less symmetric, more aggressive shape). Looking at the Luthman website, the one that looks sweetest to me (in photo form at least) is this pretty thing:

Very cool. Reminds me of the KISS iceman guitar/bass: But with a practical upper horn, and nicer contouring.

[quote name='Bassassin' timestamp='1420040631' post='2645092'] Neck-dive is really just an inherent feature of any 34" scale symmetrical body bass - the reason your Ps, Js & other asymmetrical basses don't dive so much is just the way the weight's redistributed by sticking the top button out near the 12th fret. It's much less of a problem on shortscale basses. I've got a couple of lovely symmetrical-body basses that hardly ever get out because I find supporting the neck awkward. Perhaps I should copy Mr Simmons & build something into my clothes to support it. And maybe get some Godzilla boots, too... J. [/quote] Well it depends on the symmetrical shape: if it's like a les paul bass shape, it'll need a heavy body or it will neck dive. In the case of fender style basses (34", J or P) they have the upper horn to compensate for the variable body weight and often fairly heavy machine head. With a few tweaks almost any bass can be more playable standing up - but you may need super light tuners, a grippy strap, and even a strap button extender. I've seen weight pouches incorporated into straps - but that'll be only ideal for the very strong or those with extremely light basses (or very short sets!). Extreme mods like body chambering or neck shaving can probably do a lot - but only on the correct basses. In any case you might find a solution for some of the worst of the neck dive. A steel tube moving the strap button would be my personal approach - after the ultralight tuner experiment! (take one tuner off, weigh it, compare to light tuner weights, then simulate the weight of a set of ultralight tuners by taking one (or two) off)... Here's a cool pic for yer viewing pleasure: Not sure about the Godzilla boots personally!