PlungerModerno

[quote name='mcnach' timestamp='1414152759' post='2586462'] The CV 60 Precisions were fantastic. If it had a maple fingerboard I'd have probably kept mine. Maybe it didn't work out too badly for Fender, as I now bought a Classic 50 Precision in fiesta red (albeit a weird shade of it) with maple fingerboard that is just delicious... but not that far off at all from the Squier. I never tried the CV Jazz, 'though. I already own too many Jazzes and I have the feeling I could not resist. Again, had it come in maple, I'd probably own one too :-p Squier CV Jazz, shell pink and maple... I'd buy TWO! [/quote] I'm the same - biased towards the sealed maple boards. Only have one ATM but I'll slowly replace what I have with them over time!

All the best tomorrow, and as above - stay frosty in the head and calm in the body. You'll be grand. Just remember to keep yer Boom Ooo Yata-Ta-Ta in order! [url="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xPZl4bhOTAA"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xPZl4bhOTAA[/url]

[quote name='chris_b' timestamp='1414165060' post='2586650'] If that's the case then the guitarist's using the wrong amp. [/quote] Aye, if they use the power stage as an effect (i.e. they need the sound of it at 75% max output or more) then they need either a range of amps (say 2.5, 5, 10, 25, 50, 100 Watts) or a power soaker upper (one of these: [url="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Power_attenuator_%28guitar%29"]https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Power_attenuator_%28guitar%29[/url]) No excuse for not being able to match stage volumes and get the group sounding as good as possible. If they need to lose tone - so be it, as long as the band sounds decent.

[quote name='JTUK' timestamp='1414139353' post='2586228'] Those Shukers have the rear pickup set waaay back... unbalances the whole look IMO..which is a shame as he has most of the rest looking ok.. ?? [/quote] I think it's a custom option - some are a lot closer to the bridge than others - I see some that look close to regular Jazz postioning: That's a classic look. Hearing is believing though. I'd need to know what I could get from the pickup positions!

Pretty amazing stuff!

[quote name='MoonBassAlpha' timestamp='1414064236' post='2585334'] So, is this Squier's take on a Stingray? Looks awesome vfm [/quote] Seems to be: what are the EQ settings? OK: [url="http://www.fender.com/en-IE/basses/jaguar/vintage-modified-jaguar-bass-special-hb-rosewood-fingerboard-black/http://www.fender.com/en-IE/basses/jaguar/vintage-modified-jaguar-bass-special-hb-rosewood-fingerboard-black/"]http://www.fender.com/en-IE/basses/jaguar/vintage-modified-jaguar-bass-special-hb-rosewood-fingerboard-black/http://www.fender.com/en-IE/basses/jaguar/vintage-modified-jaguar-bass-special-hb-rosewood-fingerboard-black/[/url] It says it's a 3 band active tone circuit - could be close to a 3 EQ stingray. But I think the Pickup is too close to the bridge.

I understand they're pretty solid basses - if a little odd shaped. But that's a big reason you picked it up right? Play it, enjoy it, and let people feel how they feel. I doubt it'll last as long as a super tough Modulus or Satus - and the electronics might not hold up to the decades as well as the top tier stuff - but with care it should serve as a grand instrument. Cort make millions of instruments and the vast majority are good. As I see it - getting a Kiss sound is like getting a Led Zep sound - it was always changing - so just go with what sounds right. A few years ago I would have scoffed at such a bass - now I'm not so sure. In a few years I might have one myself! Enjoy.

Aye aye!

[quote name='Grissle' timestamp='1413878824' post='2582937'] a little knowledge can be dangerous. '99 was the last year for MIM's to have same size pups. [/quote] Mine Had two neck pickups - a 2000 or 2001 MIM. But I think that was the last batch (I know they had gone back to normal sizes by 2008!). Got a set of Creamery Pickups. Very nice. [url="http://www.creamery-pickups.co.uk/classic-60-jazz-j-bass-pickup.html"]http://www.creamery-pickups.co.uk/classic-60-jazz-j-bass-pickup.html[/url]

[quote name='AntFoster' timestamp='1413803152' post='2581995'] Thanks for your replies. As it's more a way for my son and me to learn about how basses work (or don't!) I've followed the principle of throwing good money after bad by ordering a bridge similar to PlungerModerno's pic except its the complete unit. We'll try to adapt this by fitting the saddles into the current bridge or could replace that and raise the new unit higher. Then we'll move onto the pickups and cry tears of pain if they don't work. I'll try and put a better picture on cus still don't understand why one pickup has two wires and the other has three wires. The one with three wires looks as if it's been opened up at some point cus there's electrical tape on the back of it (not a good sign). If we can get strings on and it makes a noise when plugged in that will be a happy moment even if it's never really playable. [/quote] OK dokie - glad to be helpful (If I was - I could be wrong!). Best of luck with the project anyway - if you make any progress please keep us updated (pics please!). Judging from the first and last pic (full front shot showing bridge cover; closeup of bridge plate). I think it may be worth checking neck function and alignment, as suggested already. even with only two (of 6?) screws holding the bridge plate(I assume) down - you can still take a thread or string under hand tension and see how the neck angle is set. Holding it from bridge to nut should give you an idea. Another vital test is truss rod function. I'd take the neck off (I'm assuming it's a bolt on) and carefully match a wrench to the truss rod nut in the heel - try unscrewing it - it should move without excessive force. If you can get it off a small spot of grease (or oil) will help future adjustments. +1 to checking the pickups for function. As I understand it that style of bridge plate works by sitting the strings in the four notches (held in place by string tension & the ball ends) - and resting on the saddles whose intonation screws (with springs) feed through the 4 holes below the notches. I may be mistaken.

Those pickups are almost certainly humbuckers - gudging by the 4 wires I can see coming out of one. I could be mistaken as the pic is not completely clear. I think it does have a bridge - just no saddles. yer missing something like this:

Sounds surprisingly G&L - a little like a JB-2 but also like an L2000 - with a little more open sound (parallel mode??). It has it's own voice. What kind of strings is she wearing? For some reason I'm hearing flats or groundwounds.

[quote name='ahpook' timestamp='1413725879' post='2581230'] Being concerned about [i]not[/i] looking like a 'hipster' or being trendy is just as bad as following a trend - you're letting what you think other people will think about you dictate what you wear. Wear what you like...it's just a hat, unless [i]you[/i] invest it with more meaning... [/quote] Well I wear what I feel both behooves me and isn't too much hassle - what people think? at an interview or something like that, sure I'll try to impress - otherwise I couldn't care less... It is just a hat. A wonderful item for sun, rain, or snow. Especially freezing rain and hail now that I think of it. But not always the same type! Something with a nice broad brim is perfect: etc.

[quote name='Annoying Twit' timestamp='1413709645' post='2580984'] Any experiment can always be improved, no matter how many details are accounted for. Science is officially never finished with any question we ask, all we can say is that the most robust experiment we've yet performed to answer any question has given us a certain result. Until someone performs a more sophisticated experiment, we go with what we have. That's the whole history of science. For this experiment .... the correct conclusion is 'who cares?' [/quote] +1. I concur with the omitted text - the experiments should show clear trends between wood species if there are significant differences as many claim. As it is the evidence shows wood being partly responsible for deadspots and nothing much else on solid body instruments. I think a simpler proof of concept experiment with a reasonable sample size would be interesting to say the least. It would need to be a labour of love however, as alluded to before, no real scientific or industry body would be terribly interested in the conclusions.

[quote name='Myke' timestamp='1413743580' post='2581484'] Did you try the prototype that was going around on here not long ago? [/quote] This one: [url="http://basschat.co.uk/topic/242755-the-ideal-bass-strap/"]http://basschat.co.uk/topic/242755-the-ideal-bass-strap/[/url] Signup/order info (it's not quite ready yet!): [url="http://basschat.co.uk/topic/243139-karls-ergonomic-leather-bass-strap/"]http://basschat.co.uk/topic/243139-karls-ergonomic-leather-bass-strap/[/url]

[quote name='Doddy' timestamp='1413678050' post='2580903'] The problem with all these ideas for testing if wood makes a difference are neglecting one major factor-the player. One player can play 3 distinctly different basses and sound pretty similar, if not the same, on all of them. Another player would sound totally different. [/quote] Aye - You'd need to account for playing mechanics just as you'd have to account for setup e.g. pickup height. A mechanical solution might be consistent enough. Plectrum stuck on a sliding "hand" that moves across the strings completely consistently. Could probably rig an inkjet printer arm or something to do it. The real challenge is getting the dosh together to do the 100's of tests needed in controlled circumstances. It's no harm to hash out the details of a potential experiment here. My suggestion would be: (i) Consistent playing & setup ( as well as the same pick, same strings, same pickups, same hardware, same place (electronically shielded space with controlled temperature & humidity). (ii) Testing for wood type: Use bodies / necks / fretboards / etc. (the component you want to test for influence) of exactly the same dimensions or weight - and finish if any. 30+ examples of each for statistical reasons - better make it 50. I'm sure there's room for improvement in this experiment. If it's a simple proof of concept ( that wood species / type influences the tonal characteristics of a solid body instrument in an audible manner ) it could be done simpler... Custom rig with space for readily interchangeable body blanks. I suppose the pickups & the bridge would have to be connected solidly to the body, as would the neck. some sort of clamp system should be doable - depending on your definition of consistency it might be pretty simple. I'd imagine the differences would be very hard to measure & analyze accurately - and how to conclusively decide if it's wood type without lots of good data I have no Idea. What I do know is that it needs to be replicated several times, and it needs to include a double blind standard - at least for the listening component. For the actual testing, as long as the rig(s) are totally consistent it shouldn't need too much planning. Just careful recording & recording (audio & notes!). EDIT: had to change a & b to i & ii ... coz it went all

[quote name='Andyjr1515' timestamp='1413614653' post='2580099'] You could be my PR man :-) I presume you know that's one of mine... [/quote] I'll consider it - and yes, I remember seeing that pic on another thread, thought it was a cool way to "boutique" up a plain bass - especially if it's already been modded / refinished, or is well worn down. The vacuum sander is a nice idea - I've only ever seen it on bench style tools. Keep up the good work.

[quote name='stingrayPete1977' timestamp='1413652110' post='2580604'] now I have gas for an ASAT [/quote] It's a gorgeous blueburst . . . and the subtly tinted maple fretboard.

[quote name='Oopsdabassist' timestamp='1413656951' post='2580667'] Yup doing that, a little at a time, and then waiting a day for it to settle. No one got any ideas for sourcing comics then? [/quote] Not really a comic guy - BTW you can probably give it quite a crank without breaking it. If you're doing more than a half turn at a time - I'd slacken off the strings. I've tweaked a bass about 6 times in the one day - some squeaking / creaking as I tuned up (once with old strings, a couple of times with new as I intonated them) - when a bass is badly maladjusted it needs a firm hand. Get the neck as close to straight without string tension - then get it that straight again with tension. That's how I do it anyhow. IME you can adjust it gradually and it can still shift slightly a few hours after you adjust it - I'd get it close to ideal and then wait - as opposed to waiting in between each tweak - were it my bass. Best of luck with it anyhow.

[quote name='Matt P' timestamp='1413278834' post='2576542'] [indent=1]whoa! that's a beast, not sure about some of the features though, eye bolts as strap buttons? and the tuners look like guitar ones to me. and don't get me started on the bridge (no intonation adjustment and 15 strings anchored into 9 single string anchors?)[/indent] [indent=1]Matt[/indent] [/quote] +1 That bridge gives me nightmares. Why not set it up somewhat sanely and sell it as a 9 stringer? and £1,000? come on!

Something is amiss here. I wonder can ebay intervene in this kind of situation? This is almost certainly a deliberate forgery, and however the seller came about it - fair or foul - it shouldn't just roll on. I've not sold stuff on ebay so I don't really know how it works.

[quote name='Beer of the Bass' timestamp='1413641425' post='2580451'] My brother is a classical guitar builder, and I get the impression that this is what the demand for Brazilian Rosewood is doing in the classical and acoustic guitar world. The good stuff is mostly gone (at least through legal routes), but some luthiers will use wild-grained pieces just to have the cachet that goes with it. While Indian Rosewood is demonstrably not the same (being less dense and having a duller tap tone) and arguably inferior, there are plenty of other more sustainable hardwoods with similar properties and tone. [/quote] If a reputable classical instrument builder (and it's an if, at least regarding the reputable ones!) chooses significantly inferior wood - purely for the name - that's sick. AFAIK (and I'm no classical instrument builder/player) the traditional instrument needs to be kept carefully to last - e.g. case humidifiers in dry environments. An instrument made with odd wood parts might have lots of issues - not only spoiling a luthiers reputation, but perhaps causing massive upset and lost earnings to a performer / teacher. Some people can't do without a given instrument. To risk them losing it, from the builders side, is exactly the opposite of what they should be striving for. I'd be optimistic that as long as cedar, spruce, or other suitable wood for a soundboard is available, we'll have many centuries of great sounding & playing instruments. [quote name='White Cloud' timestamp='1413641620' post='2580454'] If bass feels right, sounds right and looks right (to me) ....then it is right. How and why doesn't concern me tbh. [/quote] A very reasonable view to take - especially for solid body instruments built for a life on the road. I'd be more worried about more delicate designs (extremely slim tilt back headstocks on heavy basses, some hollowbodies without centre blocks, etc.) - especially cheaper versions that are more likely to have unstable wood in them (stresses, moisture, grain flaws in unfortunate structural spots).

[quote name='Annoying Twit' timestamp='1413638016' post='2580400'] It may still affect you. If luthiers use fancy (and expensive) woods because 'the market' won't accept a high-end bass made of cheap materials, then you end up paying more for a certain quality of bass than you would be able to if 'the market' was more accepting of different types of wood. Not a problem, I would expect if you're buying custom made basses, as you can choose the wood. But, if you're buying higher quality off the shelf products, this may affect you. If you're concerned about ecology, then 'the market' also has a tendency to value woods of endangered species over and above more common, less endangered, species. [/quote] You're on to something there. What if an unscrupulous builder / company uses wood of an exotic or rare tree to promote an instrument - but the woods rarity means less than ideal pieces are used, even though ideal pieces of a run of the mill tree as available. You get less of a bass for the money, while helping drive the depletion of some wood that could be extremely useful in the future. Some builders / companies have the total opposite angle: [url="http://www.warwickbass.com/en/Warwick---The-Difference--Our-woods--CITES-.html#current_site_id"]http://www.warwickbass.com/en/Warwick---The-Difference--Our-woods--CITES-.html#current_site_id[/url] Even if I think wood is a tiny part of what makes a solid body instrument sound as it does - I love wood and "wood" hate to see wooden instruments fall out of favour.

[quote name='Oopsdabassist' timestamp='1413567402' post='2579729'] Nothing actually decided yet, but after seeing TimAl's old threads sticking comics on old basses, I'm tempted to let him have a go at my Squier P pro. One of his scratchplates should finish it off nicely and I already have a couple of ideas for this using his nifty website. [url="http://www.originalscratchplates.com/"]http://www.originalscratchplates.com/[/url] I really fancy a steampunk theme, and have spent the last couple of days trying to find a decent steampunk graphic novel that has plenty of good pics showing machinery and architecture etc. If anyone has anything we could use, or can point me in a better direction than I'm aiming at the moment I'd appreciate it as I'm not having a lot of luck! I'm also toying with the idea of getting a new P profile neck, preferably Rosewood, as the reason I don't play this thing now is because the neck is a bit like a banana! Many thanks for looking and any input much appreciated [/quote] Cool Idea! One quick note: If the current neck is "a bit like a banana!" try loosening the strings and tightening the truss rod...

[quote name='discreet' timestamp='1413595787' post='2580078'] Well I was imagining they'd last for a month or so. Depending on how many 'friends' you accumulate. [/quote] Well it all depends on the rate at which they're taken - I guess more people would help dispose of them quicker without loss of life...